Being a huge Amouage fan, I'm planning on buying the Memoir Man when it gets in stock here in the US - The notes certainly do sound nice.
However, for all who have tried it, how much of a resemblence does it have with Ungaro I? According to zztop's review of Ungaro I the main focus of it is Wormwood, and wasn't sure if Memoir Man has the same booziness and dark feeling of Ungaro I.
I’m afraid I have to express my disappointment with both Memoir Man and Woman, more due to the fact that compared to Amouage’s last 2-3 ‘standard’ releases (Epic, Lyric, etc) these aren’t very original at all. Taking into account 50ml will cost £20 more than a 50ml bottle of Lyric (a 100ml bottle will cost an extra £10), I expected more originality. Granted, these are up to the usual high standards that Amouage is renowned for but there was just too much déjà vu to get excited about. Furthermore, they smelt more mainstream than niche.
So, what do they smell like? Well, if I had to sum them up, it would be something like this:
Memoir Man: a fresher version of Gucci pour Homme (not sure if Gucci pour Homme II would come into the equation, as I haven’t smelt it in a very long time).
Memoir Woman: a fusion of two Serge Lutens releases, Cedre (1:3) and Serge Noir (2:3), with discreet sillage and good (but not stellar) longevity.
The first thing that I said to myself, after smelling these for the first time, was ‘It that it?’ That’s how underwhelming I found them. Let’s put it this way, after trying the Memoirs, the quality of Opus III (which I tried again, shortly afterwards) shone through even more – heightened in comparison to the ‘blandness’ of the Memoirs.
So, no, I won’t be buying either of them but am now seriously considering a bottle of Opus III. I’m also really looking forward to the release of Opus IV before the end of the year (Opus V will be out in 2011)…
Thanks Trebor! Too bad... any REAL leather as a prominent note though?
With regards to Memoir Woman, hardly any. But then again, I'm not much of a leather frag expert. Woods, tuberose, incense and labdanum were the main players to my nose (the fenugreek's there but less prominent).
I'll try them when they are available at our local store here... thanks, but it does sound less and less hopeful
I guess most of us here are expecting something special and outstanding for the money that Amouage is charging, but then again, in an interview with Christopher Chong, he did mention that he does not believe in originality, but re-interpretation, and at the end of the day, perfume should smell good. To that end, I have come not to expect anything amazingly groundbreaking like Coty's Chypre or Houbigant's Fougere (abit hyperbolic here >_<).
However, I still enjoy reading reviews, both good and bad, because it gives me a more balanced understanding of the scent, and it tampers my expectations, so much so that I approach a scent with a neutral stance. That way, I can smell it with "a clean nose and mind", because I realized that our minds tend to "create" a smell of something we have never smelled before based on reviews (and if its from a brand we love, we tend to want it to smell good). When we really smell the scent, and if it doesn't fit according to what we created in our mind, we get disappointed. I'm not saying that this was what happened to Trebor, but I have had this experience before.
Anyhows, I just bought Memoir blind And I got Ciel to go along with it!
Last edited by ccck; 24th September 2010 at 04:27 PM.
i like your style, man!.......Anyhows, I just bought Memoir blind And I got Ciel to go along with it!
I think comparing Memoir Man to Gucci PH and leaving it at this is doing a big disservice to both fragrances, really. There are quite a few differences and while they do share some elements of their woody/incense/amber accord, it's grossly misleading to say they are the same. It would be like saying Jaisalmer and Ouarzazate are the same or something, just because they are both incense oriented. While I respect Trebor's opinion I just want people to know that there are some (myself and Mr. Reasonable, at least) that do not find them to be so similar.
I've yet to give Memoir Woman a full test but I pick up a serious Poison by Dior vibe when sniffing under the cap. Does anyone else get that comparison at all? The anise, jasmine and white petal accord come together in a grapey-jasmine way that immediately called to mind Poison. I imagine the drydown will be quite different, but still, lovers of the original Poison (Sugarandja, where are you? ) may want to check this one out.
It's funny that Trebor drew a comparison between Serge Noir and Memoir Woman. I can see the comparison there and it is apt. To my nose, I'd say Memoir woman is more like Dior's Poison + Serge Noire + some chypre qualities.
Funnily enough, I was trying to think of what Memoir Man compares to and, having somehow missed Trebor's comparison above, also thought of Serge Noire. To me, Memoir Man is something like: Fou d'Absinthe + Gucci PH + Serge Noire + Salvador Dali PH.
It took me a few wearings on skin to get all of the depth of Memoir Man. On a card the opening accord of absinthe + a hint of woods and incense and anise stays for quite some time, and I can see where it may lead one to think of a "fresher Gucci PH." It is definitely greener and more aromatic up top!
The aromatic and green top segues into a lavender absolute (this smells green, with hints of berry and jasmine) and incensey woody heart, and then finally into a slightly ashen dry down that calls to mind the embers of a dying flame. I detect oakmoss, sandalwood, a smoky vetiver, a good dose of burned incense (it smells most like burned opoponax, which smells kind of like burned myrrh without the brown sugar nuances) and a hint of tarry leather (like that found in Dali PH) in the drydown, and it is fantastic.
Don't test this on a card, and don't give up on it after only a single wearing. It's a fantastic scent, one of the best and most creative in the Amouage line, imo.
Amoauge now have these listed on their site: http://www.amouage.com/memoir/
Now available at Luckyscent! http://www.luckyscent.com/shop/secti...emoir_Man.html
The women's is also available. The cool thing is that these are the least expensive releases from Amouage in a long time. Now, of course, they're still obscenely expensive, but just a little less obscene. Only $260 for the mens.. it's the cheapest men's scent they've got listed there along with Silver Man.
The really odd thing is that the Amouage site's official pricing has it at the same price as Epic and Dia. Do you think this is just a Luckyscent promotional thing? Does Luckyscent ever (or usually?) offer a slightly reduced price on pre-orders?
Will be ordering a sample soon as Amouage is one of my favorite houses. The bottle is very off putting though; it reminds me of Serge Lutens` Serge Noir and that was a ghastly perfume on me.
Well, there is a hint of Serge Noire in both of these fragrances. If I had to compare them to a combination of other scents: say the men's smells like a mix of Fou d'Absinthe, Serge Noire, and Gucci PH, while the women's smells like a mix of the original Poison, Serge Noire, and a hint of Alien.
These are the least traditionally "Amouage" of the scents they've put out - very dark and almost gothic. Both are still lush, beautiful and powerful, however.
edit: There's some connection between Encre Noire and Memoir Man, too - mostly in their dark/smoothness.
Last edited by SculptureOfSoul; 30th September 2010 at 06:02 AM.
Thanks to this thread I ran over to the mall and tested these yesterday. Memoir Man is too stark for me. Woman, though, was quite lovely. I got a little fenugreek, some black molasses, a lot of clove, and then a little soapy floral hiding waaaaay back there. Toasty warm, dark and oddly comforting - not my idea of gothic. With Amouage I expect a beautiful, inspired perfume with high quality ingredients, and Memoir Woman delivers that. It doesn't pique me enough for a full bottle, but I might buy a sample to give it time to grow on me.
Of the recent Amouage releases I have most enjoyed Opus III. Less original than Memoir, but a beautiful, easy wear. I see it on the distant FB horizon...
Anakin: What was that all about?
Obi-Wan: Well, R2 has been...
Anakin: No loose wire jokes.
Obi-Wan: Did I say anything?
Anakin: He's trying.
Obi-Wan: I didn't say anything!
Is it just me, or does Opus III smell the most natural of all the Amouage releases?
I'm pretty sure Off-Scenter doesn't think so, based on his review, but what he reads as aldehydes I read as ylang + carnation + a hint of sipce and a bit of dry wood (the papyrus note.. maybe something like copaiba balsam, himalaya cedar or something similar). While there may be aldehydes present they definitely don't hit me with that waxiness that is so present in scents like No. 5, Dia Woman, Gold Man, etc. Those aldehydes always seem to have a bit of a light/shimmery quality too (which is odd, given their waxiness.. maybe it's the juxtaposition of those two odd qualities that makes them rather unpleasant to me), while Opus III just seems so full, round, and almost weighty, right from the get go.
Does anyone else think Opus III smells like L'Heure Bleue ( in extrait ) ? It is easily my favorite.
I ordered samples of Memoir Woman - just dying to try it out !
I think Opus 3 is the most linear, classic, and mature scent in Library Collection. It is super strong, very feminin, and like Mimi Gardenia and others said, Opus 3 reminds us of Guerlain L'Heure Bleue. With Opus trio, I think Amouage is quite smart. Opus 1 is sharp and daring. Opus 2 is enjoyable and wearable. Opus 3 is standard and mature. Anyone can choose for himself (at least ) one Opus easily.
Sculptureofsoul, I think Opus 2 is more natural than Opus 3. I love 2, and just wish it could be as strong ans 1 and 3.
Last edited by chocolateguy; 30th September 2010 at 01:05 PM.
chocolateguy- thanks for the affirmation re. L'Heure Bleue and Opus III.
Sculpture - you say Memoir Woman smells like Poison somewhat ?? That's wonderful ! I can't wait to sample ! I also love black perfume bottles - a weakness of mine . I won't know what to do with myself if I fall in love with it ... Amouage is so stinkingly expensive.
I am officially in love with Memoir Man. It basically takes the best parts of Salvador Dali, Gucci PH, Fou d'Absinthe, Encre Noire and Serge Noire and a hint of Epic Man and combines them into one fragrance. It is deep, dark, brooding, introspective, and very very beautiful. I was going to ask for Opus II for Christmas (I still really want it!), but I think I want Memoir Man first. Problem is.. I really don't need 100ml of it, but it's not worth saving a few bucks for the 50ml. I wonder if anyone would be interested in a split...
a random aside: yesterday, while wearing Memoir Man, I was surrounded by a couple of huge ravens. I haven't even seen any ravens in quite some time. What a weird coincidence (if you go to the Memoir section on the Amouage site, you'll see the black feather theme they've got going on.. granted, I think that's tied into the Black Swan story, but still.. an odd coincidence).
I just ordered samples of both Memoir Man and Woman.... I'm really looking forward to trying these.
I don't know much about medicine, but I know what I like. -- S.J. Perelman
If I was going to get Memoir- I would opt for the 100 ml size- it does seem more cost effective in the end. Your raven experience , Sculpture- a bizarre coicidence !
I've been thinking of just picking up maybe 10ml worth in the form of official samples. That would last me a looong time. But.. damnit, I want the bottle!
I`m very curious about these two. Hoping that someone offer decants of it in the decant sites...
Looks like Parfums Raffy now has the Memoir duo. With the Basenotes plus discount, that's a good price. (Ok, still obscenely expensive, but hey, every little discount helps!)
I ordered a big bottle of memoir women from parfume raffy. 10% off plus free amouage samples. Thanks SOS for the inform.
I am testing out Memoir Woman right now- so far ...excellent. A dark ,broody floral chypre - elegant and supremely unisex. It's really quite wonderful to see a perfume house produce a REAL chypre of this calibre .
i think this is going to be another blind buy..........yeah, i know!!!
For those who've tested Memoir Women.. do you get any relation to Poison? It's been so long since I've smelled Poison, but yet upon smelling Memoir Woman's top notes it was the first thing that came to mind.
I disagree with Memoir Woman being particularly unisex. Once it dries down for a few hours it is unisex, but the opening boozy, floral, jasmine heavy scent is decidedly feminine, imo.
Memoir Woman is more ostentatious and seemingly interesting on first sniff, but I still far prefer Memoir Man. It is masculine throughout, and has the most realistic wormwood oil (the oil, not the live plant) opening I"ve ever smelled. I LOVE the smell of wormwood oil, and this is simply amazing.
For anyone else who has tested it.. do you get a slightly skunky phase after about 10 minutes or so, lasting for a short bit? Skunky sounds bad, but on me it's actually very very pleasant because it's just a hint of skunkiness that lurks behind the scent and adds intrigue via contrast - the way perfumers often use civet against florals to make the sum better than the parts.
I tested this scent against Gucci PH, Encre Noire, and Serge Noire, and find it far more interesting, complex, layered, and long lasting than any of them. It's by far the finest dark, brooding, and introspective scent I've ever smelled, and I can safely say it is in my top 4. I could very well see this scent becoming my #1, in fact.
Poison!? Wow, every review I've read of this just makes me want it more.
I think you'd LOVE this scent as long as you don't mind a dark, woody/incense/ashy and yet still slightly feminine drydown.
I absolutely get a Poison vibe at the beginning of Memoir Woman. But once the middle and base start warming up it opens up it leaves Poison in the dust. Memoir is so much more controlled and so beautifully blended.
Yes, there is a Poison type vibe due to the tuberose I think. I adore Memoir Woman . Me want !
Anyway, back to Memoir, I get a Poison vibe from a concord grape accord that's lurking in there. But I don't think I would immediately connect the two. The perfumers did a great job of making Woman is its own beast.
Anakin: What was that all about?
Obi-Wan: Well, R2 has been...
Anakin: No loose wire jokes.
Obi-Wan: Did I say anything?
Anakin: He's trying.
Obi-Wan: I didn't say anything!
I planned to order a bottle of Memoir Man but don't need a full 100ml. If anyone else feels the same way please contact me.
Tested Memoir Man - I think I like even more than Memoir Woman - it's distinctly different - great opening notes.
I too really love the opening notes of Memoir Man. It's the best wormwood oil note I've ever smelled - it smells like a really high quality wormwood essential oil I have, with just a bit more body provided by the basil and mint leaf. Wormwood oil smells so darn good - it is very smooth, aromatic, green and minty, deeper and greener than spearmint. It is quite sweet (and simultaneously bitter) too, and so is the opening stage of Memoir Man, eventually giving way to the smoother incense heart (the phase that smells kind of like Gucci PH), and then getting downright ashy and woody, before all of that finally relents 10+ hours later and a lemony frankincense note is all that is left on skin. I love that the ending is a bit lighter/brighter than the rest of the scent.. it's a happy ending to the dark and introspective ride.
Chocolateguy - I hope you are enjoying it and didn't find my reviews to be too off the mark!
So.. which one are you going to get Mimi?
I hope my g/f loves Memoir Woman once she gets to test it. I know I keep saying it doesn't stand up to the men's but that's not really true, objectively. I just mean that as a man, and one who is looking for a smooth, dark, ashy, and very masculine scent, Man is far more up my alley. Woman is pretty amazing in its own right though, and I think it might be my favorite Amouage feminine to date. I do really like Jubilation 25, and Epic Woman is very nice, but Memoir Woman just.. well, it has more immediate passion to it.
It would go great with her new purple wool coat, too.
The revelance of Memoir Man's and Ungaro I is very remote, however, they do come from the same heavier incense-like genre which I absolutely love. If you like Epic, you will love Memoir for sure.
RSharma, I'm glad you are mostly enjoying Memoir Man. I'm curious in what fragrance(s) you've smelled such a strong smoky/ashy incense note because I'd really like to try them!
To me, the only ones that come close are Dali PH and Serge Noire, although I think that the incense in Memoir Man is drier and smokier than both. I do get just a hint of a minty/green note well into the drydown - it's faint but it seems to be lurking in the background.
SoS, I don't have an extensive collection, and haven't tried very many frangrances. However, from the ones I've tried (from My Wardrobe), Tribute is THE most smokiest one. In Memoir, the smoky/ashy note is nothing less than what I smell in Tribute coupled with a distinct Epic note.
As expected, with even just a moderate temperature drop (from 33c+ average down to 25c with less humidity) Memoir Man is far more enjoyable for me and I'm pretty sure it will get better into the teens - it's a beautiful scent.
Alright, with my recent purchase from the UK came two big official samples of both Memoir Man and Woman... so, I have a chance to try them before they are out here in Austria.
Hmmm, I was in for a surprise. I'm hard-pressed to say that this is the first Amouage scent that I might actually prefer the Man to the Woman.
First the Woman: Sorry, it smells very artificial to me (Prove me wrong! But when checking the notes list something like Opulent white blossoms and Precious dark woods or similar does not reek of luxury to me). I also found it rather cloying and actually, I think this cloyingness and "weight" renders it difficult for me personally to pull off as a man. It's the base that makes it more and more pleasant to my nose, but still that "artificial note" stays until the end.
The Man does not smell hugely inspired. I think Trebor is right, but I would prefer Memoir Man much over Epic Man, which I found unbearable. Period.
Longevity was surprising... Woman was medium to okay on me, whereas Man is really smashing. Just compare it to Opus II, which is really short to medium lived on me.
I'll need more time with both, in particular Man. I'm not going to find a new love here, but Man is worth exploring further. Does it fit my style? I don't know yet.
Well, I've finally tried Memoir Woman, and... and... and... It's looking like Kilian's Love & Tears is staying as my jasmine of the year.
I'm sorry, I wanted to love this so, so much, but it's just not doing it to me. It smells like good old Serge decided to add jasmine to his seemingly endless Bois series, but just like the Bois series, there's this peculiar sour plummy-woody accord that just spoils it for me. This is Bois Et Jasmin, the member of the Bois series that could exist, but doesn't.
I definitely get that vividly grapey jasmine note, though not as loud as Poison or Alien, and somehow less vital, to boot. It's also surprisingly transparent for such a dark-smelling fragrance. It's not a bad fragrance in the least, it's just really not how I thought it would be.
I will try this another day, but for me, it's no Ubar. ( Or even Jubilation 25... )
I just get a flash of this note sometimes in the first half hour - it's there and it's gone but it is uniquely Tribute. I think it may be something to do with a confluence of the tobacco / vetiver / herbal side of things. Tribute has an herbal earthy vibe (utterly different from Homage) that appeals to me. I can't put my finger on it but it hints at a classic male style from when I was younger and I did notice a fleeting similarity to Derby. I stuck the notes on the other Memoir Man thread - best I can do. It's not an ashy thing.
Tribute is quite an upstanding earthy one for me - Memoir Man is more Heathcliffian . . . broody and moody.
I tried this a couple of weeks back and I really like it. I find Tribute a little harsh in the drydown (due to the Green Vetiver - it can very well overpower the scent), and find Homage too feminine in the top notes (due to the floral blast of the rose-jasmine combo). However, by blending both of these, they somewhat masked each other out and gave an excellent odour profile that mellowed both of these facets.
Last edited by RSharma314; 15th October 2010 at 01:30 PM.
Btw, I really liked Tribute but the cedar-dominated drydown ruined it for me. I mean of all the notes they had at their disposal, they chose the one note that's been overused in even the most generic of masculine designer scents. Pfff!