Being a huge Amouage fan, I'm planning on buying the Memoir Man when it gets in stock here in the US - The notes certainly do sound nice.
However, for all who have tried it, how much of a resemblence does it have with Ungaro I? According to zztop's review of Ungaro I the main focus of it is Wormwood, and wasn't sure if Memoir Man has the same booziness and dark feeling of Ungaro I.
I’m afraid I have to express my disappointment with both Memoir Man and Woman, more due to the fact that compared to Amouage’s last 2-3 ‘standard’ releases (Epic, Lyric, etc) these aren’t very original at all. Taking into account 50ml will cost £20 more than a 50ml bottle of Lyric (a 100ml bottle will cost an extra £10), I expected more originality. Granted, these are up to the usual high standards that Amouage is renowned for but there was just too much déjà vu to get excited about. Furthermore, they smelt more mainstream than niche.
So, what do they smell like? Well, if I had to sum them up, it would be something like this:
Memoir Man: a fresher version of Gucci pour Homme (not sure if Gucci pour Homme II would come into the equation, as I haven’t smelt it in a very long time).
Memoir Woman: a fusion of two Serge Lutens releases, Cedre (1:3) and Serge Noir (2:3), with discreet sillage and good (but not stellar) longevity.
The first thing that I said to myself, after smelling these for the first time, was ‘It that it?’ That’s how underwhelming I found them. Let’s put it this way, after trying the Memoirs, the quality of Opus III (which I tried again, shortly afterwards) shone through even more – heightened in comparison to the ‘blandness’ of the Memoirs.
So, no, I won’t be buying either of them but am now seriously considering a bottle of Opus III. I’m also really looking forward to the release of Opus IV before the end of the year (Opus V will be out in 2011)…
Thanks Trebor! Too bad... any REAL leather as a prominent note though?
With regards to Memoir Woman, hardly any. But then again, I'm not much of a leather frag expert. Woods, tuberose, incense and labdanum were the main players to my nose (the fenugreek's there but less prominent).
I'll try them when they are available at our local store here... thanks, but it does sound less and less hopeful
I guess most of us here are expecting something special and outstanding for the money that Amouage is charging, but then again, in an interview with Christopher Chong, he did mention that he does not believe in originality, but re-interpretation, and at the end of the day, perfume should smell good. To that end, I have come not to expect anything amazingly groundbreaking like Coty's Chypre or Houbigant's Fougere (abit hyperbolic here >_<).
However, I still enjoy reading reviews, both good and bad, because it gives me a more balanced understanding of the scent, and it tampers my expectations, so much so that I approach a scent with a neutral stance. That way, I can smell it with "a clean nose and mind", because I realized that our minds tend to "create" a smell of something we have never smelled before based on reviews (and if its from a brand we love, we tend to want it to smell good). When we really smell the scent, and if it doesn't fit according to what we created in our mind, we get disappointed. I'm not saying that this was what happened to Trebor, but I have had this experience before.
Anyhows, I just bought Memoir blind And I got Ciel to go along with it!
Last edited by ccck; 24th September 2010 at 03:27 PM.
i like your style, man!.......Anyhows, I just bought Memoir blind And I got Ciel to go along with it!
I think comparing Memoir Man to Gucci PH and leaving it at this is doing a big disservice to both fragrances, really. There are quite a few differences and while they do share some elements of their woody/incense/amber accord, it's grossly misleading to say they are the same. It would be like saying Jaisalmer and Ouarzazate are the same or something, just because they are both incense oriented. While I respect Trebor's opinion I just want people to know that there are some (myself and Mr. Reasonable, at least) that do not find them to be so similar.
I've yet to give Memoir Woman a full test but I pick up a serious Poison by Dior vibe when sniffing under the cap. Does anyone else get that comparison at all? The anise, jasmine and white petal accord come together in a grapey-jasmine way that immediately called to mind Poison. I imagine the drydown will be quite different, but still, lovers of the original Poison (Sugarandja, where are you? ) may want to check this one out.
It's funny that Trebor drew a comparison between Serge Noir and Memoir Woman. I can see the comparison there and it is apt. To my nose, I'd say Memoir woman is more like Dior's Poison + Serge Noire + some chypre qualities.
Funnily enough, I was trying to think of what Memoir Man compares to and, having somehow missed Trebor's comparison above, also thought of Serge Noire. To me, Memoir Man is something like: Fou d'Absinthe + Gucci PH + Serge Noire + Salvador Dali PH.
It took me a few wearings on skin to get all of the depth of Memoir Man. On a card the opening accord of absinthe + a hint of woods and incense and anise stays for quite some time, and I can see where it may lead one to think of a "fresher Gucci PH." It is definitely greener and more aromatic up top!
The aromatic and green top segues into a lavender absolute (this smells green, with hints of berry and jasmine) and incensey woody heart, and then finally into a slightly ashen dry down that calls to mind the embers of a dying flame. I detect oakmoss, sandalwood, a smoky vetiver, a good dose of burned incense (it smells most like burned opoponax, which smells kind of like burned myrrh without the brown sugar nuances) and a hint of tarry leather (like that found in Dali PH) in the drydown, and it is fantastic.
Don't test this on a card, and don't give up on it after only a single wearing. It's a fantastic scent, one of the best and most creative in the Amouage line, imo.
Amoauge now have these listed on their site: http://www.amouage.com/memoir/
Now available at Luckyscent! http://www.luckyscent.com/shop/secti...emoir_Man.html
The women's is also available. The cool thing is that these are the least expensive releases from Amouage in a long time. Now, of course, they're still obscenely expensive, but just a little less obscene. Only $260 for the mens.. it's the cheapest men's scent they've got listed there along with Silver Man.
The really odd thing is that the Amouage site's official pricing has it at the same price as Epic and Dia. Do you think this is just a Luckyscent promotional thing? Does Luckyscent ever (or usually?) offer a slightly reduced price on pre-orders?
Will be ordering a sample soon as Amouage is one of my favorite houses. The bottle is very off putting though; it reminds me of Serge Lutens` Serge Noir and that was a ghastly perfume on me.
Well, there is a hint of Serge Noire in both of these fragrances. If I had to compare them to a combination of other scents: say the men's smells like a mix of Fou d'Absinthe, Serge Noire, and Gucci PH, while the women's smells like a mix of the original Poison, Serge Noire, and a hint of Alien.
These are the least traditionally "Amouage" of the scents they've put out - very dark and almost gothic. Both are still lush, beautiful and powerful, however.
edit: There's some connection between Encre Noire and Memoir Man, too - mostly in their dark/smoothness.
Last edited by SculptureOfSoul; 30th September 2010 at 05:02 AM.
Thanks to this thread I ran over to the mall and tested these yesterday. Memoir Man is too stark for me. Woman, though, was quite lovely. I got a little fenugreek, some black molasses, a lot of clove, and then a little soapy floral hiding waaaaay back there. Toasty warm, dark and oddly comforting - not my idea of gothic. With Amouage I expect a beautiful, inspired perfume with high quality ingredients, and Memoir Woman delivers that. It doesn't pique me enough for a full bottle, but I might buy a sample to give it time to grow on me.
Of the recent Amouage releases I have most enjoyed Opus III. Less original than Memoir, but a beautiful, easy wear. I see it on the distant FB horizon...
Anakin: What was that all about?
Obi-Wan: Well, R2 has been...
Anakin: No loose wire jokes.
Obi-Wan: Did I say anything?
Anakin: He's trying.
Obi-Wan: I didn't say anything!
Is it just me, or does Opus III smell the most natural of all the Amouage releases?
I'm pretty sure Off-Scenter doesn't think so, based on his review, but what he reads as aldehydes I read as ylang + carnation + a hint of sipce and a bit of dry wood (the papyrus note.. maybe something like copaiba balsam, himalaya cedar or something similar). While there may be aldehydes present they definitely don't hit me with that waxiness that is so present in scents like No. 5, Dia Woman, Gold Man, etc. Those aldehydes always seem to have a bit of a light/shimmery quality too (which is odd, given their waxiness.. maybe it's the juxtaposition of those two odd qualities that makes them rather unpleasant to me), while Opus III just seems so full, round, and almost weighty, right from the get go.
Does anyone else think Opus III smells like L'Heure Bleue ( in extrait ) ? It is easily my favorite.
I ordered samples of Memoir Woman - just dying to try it out !
I think Opus 3 is the most linear, classic, and mature scent in Library Collection. It is super strong, very feminin, and like Mimi Gardenia and others said, Opus 3 reminds us of Guerlain L'Heure Bleue. With Opus trio, I think Amouage is quite smart. Opus 1 is sharp and daring. Opus 2 is enjoyable and wearable. Opus 3 is standard and mature. Anyone can choose for himself (at least ) one Opus easily.
Sculptureofsoul, I think Opus 2 is more natural than Opus 3. I love 2, and just wish it could be as strong ans 1 and 3.
Last edited by chocolateguy; 30th September 2010 at 12:05 PM.
chocolateguy- thanks for the affirmation re. L'Heure Bleue and Opus III.
Sculpture - you say Memoir Woman smells like Poison somewhat ?? That's wonderful ! I can't wait to sample ! I also love black perfume bottles - a weakness of mine . I won't know what to do with myself if I fall in love with it ... Amouage is so stinkingly expensive.
I am officially in love with Memoir Man. It basically takes the best parts of Salvador Dali, Gucci PH, Fou d'Absinthe, Encre Noire and Serge Noire and a hint of Epic Man and combines them into one fragrance. It is deep, dark, brooding, introspective, and very very beautiful. I was going to ask for Opus II for Christmas (I still really want it!), but I think I want Memoir Man first. Problem is.. I really don't need 100ml of it, but it's not worth saving a few bucks for the 50ml. I wonder if anyone would be interested in a split...
a random aside: yesterday, while wearing Memoir Man, I was surrounded by a couple of huge ravens. I haven't even seen any ravens in quite some time. What a weird coincidence (if you go to the Memoir section on the Amouage site, you'll see the black feather theme they've got going on.. granted, I think that's tied into the Black Swan story, but still.. an odd coincidence).
I just ordered samples of both Memoir Man and Woman.... I'm really looking forward to trying these.
I don't know much about medicine, but I know what I like. -- S.J. Perelman
If I was going to get Memoir- I would opt for the 100 ml size- it does seem more cost effective in the end. Your raven experience , Sculpture- a bizarre coicidence !
I've been thinking of just picking up maybe 10ml worth in the form of official samples. That would last me a looong time. But.. damnit, I want the bottle!
I`m very curious about these two. Hoping that someone offer decants of it in the decant sites...
Looks like Parfums Raffy now has the Memoir duo. With the Basenotes plus discount, that's a good price. (Ok, still obscenely expensive, but hey, every little discount helps!)