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  1. #1

    Default Amouage Opus III: Initial Impressions


    Amouage Opus III

    Head: Mimosa, Broom, Camation, Nutmeg, Thyme
    Heart: Violet, Jasmine, Ylang-ylang, Orange Blossom
    Base: Ambrette, Musk, Papyrus, Cedarwood, Sandalwood, Guaiacwood, Benzoin, Vanilla, Frankincense
    Perfumer: Karine Vinchon-Spehner

    (posting this as its own thread as well as on the sample thread as I'd like to get other people's feedback here! )

    Well, after testing Opus III on my skin I don't hate it anymore. The first sniff on a card was off-putting and the ylang-ylang and banana notes really came out on the card, but on my skin it played out a bit differently.

    Opus III has an interesting opening that can be described in a single word: chaotic. It calls to mind the openings of some of the more daring scents by MPG. There is a whirlwind of clashing notes which creates a bit of a cacophony. Flowers, hay, something a bit dirty, a hint of indoles, powder, nutmeg or some other similar spice. I wasn't sure what to make of it except that I didn't really like it in a purely olfactory sense, but that it's interesting intellectually just trying to figure out what the heck is really going on. That's when I thought back to the premise behind these scents: inspired by libraries, dusty old books, dried parchment, writing utensils, the creative process. Things relating to the search for, and expansion of knowledge. And so, from here on out I tried to view Opus III's development with that concept in mind.

    That's when it hit me. Conceptually, Opus III is genius. The opening could just smell like a cacophony of notes, but keeping in mind the inspiration behind the scent, it becomes a bit clearer what one is smelling. The opening calls to mind the image of finding an ancient text up in a forgotten attic that is covered with years, possibly decades of dust. The leather binding is dry and the pages are stiff and yellowing, and the chest you found it in is a bit musty. None of this is unpleasant, although it isn't what one would call pleasant, either. It just is.

    Within a few minutes the chaos of the opening has settled down and a very dry and powdery note begins to emerge, along with a hint of banana. Thankfully, the banana note was much more quiet on skin than on paper, and it called to mind nothing more than some ripe bananas hanging on a hook over in the corner of the room. The dry and powdery note has a couple facets and calls to mind two things: the smell of chalk dust, and the smell of a certain type of paper that for some reason made me think of the smell of a Bible I had as a child. There is a hint of sweetness, but the notes remain very dry, but thick and lush. The texture of the scent is so very very full, very dense, slightly stuffy even, but never suffocating.

    A slightly rubbery note begins to emerge. Erasers. Yes, the smell of those all too familiar pink erasers. Dusty books and dry paper, chalk, erasers. This could very well be the smell of a small room where Einstein or Feynman pored over tomes of knowledge, jotted thoughts in a notebook and scrawled out equations on a chalkboard. The room is small and dusty and a bit stuffy but it is warm and comforting. It smells very old and yet familiar, comfortable.

    Over time the woods of the base press through the chalk/eraser/paper accord, modifying it so that everything smells older, drier. The whole room is now but an image on a piece of film tucked into a photo album in a chest that you will someday find in the future. An old memory, almost forgotten, now recalled in sepia tones.

    I don't know what to make of the scent. Conceptually, as I said, it is really genius. After settling down within the first 15 minutes or so, it becomes very comfortable to wear, although it is a very dry powdery scent with a hint of dry woods (papyrus, a gentle sandalwood). Not feminine, per se, and not masculine in any kind of modern sense. It is just old fashioned. It is more the smell of a time and a place and thus is not directly associated with gender, as the time and place recollected are unrelated to either gender as well.

    It's very strong and longevity is fantastic. Sillage seems moderate. I wouldn't wear this often, but it would be the perfect scent to wear while doing some intensive studying, especially when all cooped up inside during winter, whether it be in a dorm room, library, or fireside in the den.

    My rating:
    4.7/5 conceptually, 4/5 subjectively.

    I may pick up a small decant or a few more samples for the few days this winter when it would really hit the spot. This is a one spray scent, in my opinion, so I could probably get away with a mere 2mL to last me all winter.

    Worth a sniff if you are into conceptual scents, or are looking for a dry powder comfort scent (think Or des Indes, although this is a bit less ornate/luxurious, although this smells higher quality and far more 'comfy').
    Last edited by SculptureOfSoul; 21st March 2012 at 06:41 AM. Reason: originally spelled the perfumer's name wrong
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  2. #2

    Default Re: Amouage Opus III: Initial Impressions

    Thanks for a great review! You do amuse me , because I liked this one on card better plus I liked the opening best. Fantastic and exactly how you described it! Then, it settles into a lot of violets on me, which I don't enjoy in this form. I adore Balenciaga Le Dix... this is my (so far only) violet to go for

  3. #3

    Default Re: Amouage Opus III: Initial Impressions

    I didn't pick out violets but then I was so into smelling it conceptually that I really didn't pick out many notes! I'll have to pay attention to it with the mindset of observing the notes (which is how I usually critique things) the next time I wear it. Also, I had to shower after only having it on about 4 hours, so maybe I missed the later violet phase?

    This is a weird scent in so many ways. It's nice and smells high quality, but it's not the kind of "love it, gotta have it!" scent that I could imagine many feeling the desire to part with $325 dollars for. Still though, it's quite a bit different than any of the women's Amouage that I've tested, and a more diverse lineup is always a good thing, imo!

    I'm curious, what did you get out of the opening, and why did you enjoy it so much?
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  4. #4

    Default Re: Amouage Opus III: Initial Impressions

    I'll revisit my sample, but I definitely remember the distinctive mimosa note on card, which I absolutely love. And yes, I still got a dirty mimosa commotion sort of thing on my skin. I have meanwhile sampled many other things that have impressed me more, so my memory does not serve me too well at the moment. I agree all in all it smells right.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Amouage Opus III: Initial Impressions

    Ah yes, the dirt is probably from the mimosa. Whenever I think mimosa I always think of the mimosa absolute I have which is very sweet and green and not dirty at all (it smells a LOT like the opening of Anvers 2, or, rather, the opening of Anvers 2 smells a lot like mimosa absolute ). But then the flower itself smells dirtier, and is often rendered with a bit of dirt, such as in C&S Mimosa.

    I've not yet smell broom absolute, but I suspect that may be part of it, too.

    Overall, the scent definitely does smell of some fine floral absolutes. It has that body, thickness, richness, and some of the weird (not always unpleasant) off notes that natural absolutes and oils have.
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  6. #6

    Default Re: Amouage Opus III: Initial Impressions

    C'mon, I know others have tried this. Right? Anyone? Hillaire?!

    Let me know what you think. I'm especially curious about opinions regarding whether a man could realistically pull this off.
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  7. #7

    Default Re: Amouage Opus III: Initial Impressions

    I find Opus III to be a gentle, quite natural violet.

    It's understated and doesn't have the steely edge that some violet compositions do.Violet is such a single minded note that altho I like the smell it's not one that I wear. I guess I could imagine it working for a guy in a luxe black tie setting, but that's just purely from my own limited societal frame of reference - certainly not a judgement call

    I'm still finding my way with this Library Series - clearly Amouage have set this collection in motion to allow themselves room to develop a different style of work from the main line (and the Attars) and my general impression with just a few wearings is that apart from being lighter overall (in terms of weight / sillage / tenacity) there might be the beginnings of some ongoing explorations or impressions of more traditional notes / accords but seen through a sort of hazy memory . . . if that makes sense. Perhaps a similar approach to the concept of Histoires de Parfums, but less overt?

    Just a thought.

    PS You know, on second thoughts, if you approach this as an eau de cologne with a violet note rather than lavender it's good to go. The violet eases nicely into a green note and it never shouts - the whole effect is not a million miles away from Theirry Wasser's new Cologne du Parfumeur, which I love.

    PPS After a few more tries I'm rethinking violet. The opening is quite bright and there is a distant echo of L'Heure Bleue which I like, but as it settles a muted, greener side of violet is more apparent and it feels quite understated overall, which I'm finding comfortable enough to consider for myself. I'm beginning to get the impression this Opus series is pitched just right for more 'casual' wear than the more bombastic main line - but there is more going on here than initially meets the eye - none of these are 'obvious' at all.
    Last edited by mr. reasonable; 11th September 2010 at 06:56 PM. Reason: PS

  8. #8

    Default Re: Amouage Opus III: Initial Impressions

    I don't know why, but I kept thinking about Black Orchid.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Amouage Opus III: Initial Impressions

    I found it to be sweet enough, strong yet gentle enough, and complex enough that I'd like Mrs. J. to wear it. As to myself.....it is definitely on my occasional use list, although I prefer Opus II in the lineup myself, but that is a different conversation.

  10. #10

    Default Re: Amouage Opus III: Initial Impressions

    My first impression: it doesn't smell chaotic, and i cannot see the relation between the scent and a library, or a booked collection. I most smell at this moment a big ylang-ylang note, with the usual fruit and medicinal aspects of this flower. Ylang Ylang can be a tiring to the olfact if used in large doses, and that's what i first get, a huge ylang-ylang note mixed with spices, more of carnation than of nutmeg. The banana aspect is common from the ylang-ylang note, but here what i detect is more of the medicinal side of this flower. Something on this one seems like the aroma of tuberose, with that strange tire aroma that tuberose has. I think that it must be due to the combination of the jasmine and orange flower and mimosa. The creativity here is missing from me, i can only feel that it smells like a big flowery aroma - at this moment to me it seems like a refined version of Balahe by Leonard, with less of the medicinal notes that Balahe has one me. For a first impression, it was a letdown, but i think i'll have to try it again and see how this perception will change.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Amouage Opus III: Initial Impressions

    I bought a bottle of Opus III last weekend. I tried all three Opus fragrances and liked them all. II is on my to buy list. I love the opening of I but am a little concerned about the drydown. III is the one I liked the most out of my initial testing.

    I've worn III a couple of times but am still figuring it out. Here are a few comments before I head to the office this morning. These are mainly in response to what other posters have said. Maybe I'll wear it again today and will be able to say more later.

    I don't find the opening chaotic, but rather scrumptious. Like rickbr I don't get the dusty attic/old book connection. I do get the banana note and like it. It isn't too strong or overtly fruity and is well blended with the other elements. I definitely get violet, which I find rather pronounced at one stage, but it isn't too sweet. Eraser, yes, and only briefly, but it is subtle. I found the base to be a only a little powdery or dusty, mainly mixed woods with some lingering floral overtones.

    I enjoy wearing it, but given the strong floral character some men may find that it leans too much towards the feminine side. But I consider it unisex, and it's not really any more overtly floral than something like Givenchy's Insense. It's not that sweet and none of the florals are loud. It is long lasting, but I agree that the sillage is modest. For me it behaves very well and just smells good!

  12. #12

    Default Re: Amouage Opus III: Initial Impressions

    After a few more wearings I don't find the opening quite so chaotic, but it still registers to me as discordant. Actually, that's the word I should have used in the first place. There is a minute or two where the dirtiness of the mimosa and nutmeg combine and it just seems to be at odds with what follows. Note: This is not a bad thing, in my opinion, because it resolves itself quickly and thus serves as a point of interest rather than annoyance. It is similar in that regard to the opening of L'Anarchiste - a bit discordant but ultimately that discordance makes the whole composition more interesting and more enjoyable.

    I like this more with each wearing. Karine Vinchon is absolutely a nose to watch, with this and Memoir Man and also the splendid (if you like tea!) Coeur de Vetiver Sacre of hers all recently being released. I am going to quickly track down a sample of her all natural L'eau de Jatamansi - she's quickly become one of my favorite noses.
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  13. #13
    Hillaire
    Guest

    Default Re: Amouage Opus III: Initial Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by SculptureOfSoul View Post
    C'mon, I know others have tried this. Right? Anyone? Hillaire?!

    Let me know what you think. I'm especially curious about opinions regarding whether a man could realistically pull this off.
    Just saw this!

    I am torn on this one. We did buy it, and I do like it, but there is a plummy-musky synthetic note in it that I have trouble with. And I am just not smitten. It recalls Jubilation 25 to me, more than any other Amouage. And in that vein I prefer the Jubilation.

    Ont he whole, I lump Opus III together with a popular-of-late load of heavy, fruity, wood-rich chypres that have a very big dollop of synthetic, animalic base notes:

    MDCI Enlevement Au Serail
    HdP Marquis de Sade
    Biehl PKW al02
    Jubilation 25

    And my favorite of the bunch is the Marquis de Sade.

    I have respect for this one, but I wonder how much I will wear it.

  14. #14

    Default Re: Amouage Opus III: Initial Impressions

    I'm a little over two hours into my wearing of Opus III this morning.

    I'm getting a slightly bitter, slightly hard medicinal note, which I noticed in my previous wearings, but didn't mention in my earlier post. I'm assuming that this comes from the benzoin and perhaps the cedar. It's almost a faintly smokey smell, which may be analagous to SoS's dry paper/dusty/chalky/eraser notes. For me this makes the fragrance at this point very unisex. The floral elements are still there, but counterbalanced by the strength and vigor of the benzoin and woods.

    Edited to add this note: Opus III isn't as dense and sweet, but there's something about the early drydown that reminds me of the drydown of some Serge Lutens fragrances, perhaps such as that of Cedre.

    Editing again now that it has been about 7-8 hours after application. The medicinal notes have calmed considerably. The deep drydown is much softer and a bit sweeter than what went on before, basically woods and musk with a hint of flowers. I think that Opus III is overall a more intellectual fragrance than sensual.
    Last edited by noggs; 12th October 2010 at 10:58 AM.

  15. #15

    Default Re: Amouage Opus III: Initial Impressions

    After wearing it on skin, i think that while i can see how great this one is, it doesn't attract me. Opus III seems like the next generation of the floral oriental fragrances from the past. It's the kind of fragrance that you expect Chanel/Guerlain/Jean Patou to be launching, satisfying their more mature clientele. I don't say it smell old, but it smell sophisticade, something that a woman or a man at thirty would wear.
    Opus III opens at skin very exotic. I can see what causes the caotic impression, it's really the ylang-ylang note. Only recently i've discovered that the essential oil of this flower has some aspects in common with tuberose. Both have a strange aroma which is tied between a nail polish aroma and the smell of new tires. But while tuberose has an oily, camphoraceous aspect, ylang-ylang goes on a frutier direction and has a slightly banana note. The opus III seems to have high doses of ylang-ylang, which is the first aroma that comes in focus to me when i sprayed the fragrance. At first, i got the nail polish aroma which lasted less than one minute on skin, giving space for the fruity and tire aroma of ylang. The bush aroma is missing for me, but the nutmeg is noticeable and it's the first spice that balances the ylang-ylang aroma. The ylang-ylang always makes me think of Jean Patou fragrances. It's a smell that you find in their elegant florals, like Sira des Indes and Joy, but while Jean Patou focus more on the sensual, slighlty animalic aspects of this note, Opus III doesn't trim anything of this complex note.
    When this fragrance starts to develop, what i get is a powdery, resinous and spicy aroma. It's manly focused on carnation and violet to me, with jasmine and orange flower giving support to the accord at the background. This phase makes me think of Vol de Nuit, but it's less powdery than Vol de Nuit and it doesn't have the green, bitter aroma of the galbanum note that Vol de Nuit has. But it's the same vibe, powdery carnation and violet aroma, with some hints of jasmine and orange flower. I suppose that these two flowers contribute to the slightly indolic aroma, which was lacking on my skin but it's normal in fragrances that use these two flowers.
    The base is the moment where it seems like a Chanel feminine from the past. I get the soft ambery aspects of ambrette, the woody, cream aroma of sandalwood, something slightly dry and woody, maybe from cedar i believe, and the smoky side of benzoin.
    It's a departure from fragrances of Amouage, because it smells completely eastern, and like a homage to the great classical florals of the past.
    What intrigues me is that to me it seems like a feminine fragrance. My mom found that on me it smells like a flower fragrance for men. So i believe this is a truly unissex fragrance, which explore notes from both sides proudly. It may not be something i'd wear, but it's something i'd like to smell on someone.

  16. #16

    Default Re: Amouage Opus III: Initial Impressions

    Thanks for the excellent write-up, Rick. I too get a good dose of carnation, violet and ylang. I think the broom note is adding depth to the composition during the first half, along with the nutmeg (because neither ylang, carnation, jasmine, or orange blossom really have the depth and fullness that Opus III has - it's also surprisingly unsweet given how extremely sweet these flowers can be).

    I also agree wholeheartedly with Nogg's statement that Opus III is more intellectual than sensual. I still do get the impression of paper from various aspects of the scent, paper and binding and a leathery facet (ylang itself can be quite leathery/suede-like), and I still maintain that this scent works on the conceptual library level as well. It's not sexy, but it's very satisfying. In that regard, it is close in character to Grey Flannel, of all things.
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  17. #17

    Default Re: Amouage Opus III: Initial Impressions

    I have never smelled a broom, so maybe this aroma is blended to the overall scent. Considering that this collection works like a library of classics, they did an awesome job mixing different facets of great fragrances like L'Heure Bleue and Vol de Nuit. You can smell the homage, but it doesn't seem like a plagiarism of these scents, it's like they capture the texture, the impression of some facets of these fragrances and create something that it's unique, but classic at the same time.
    I have also noticed, after some hours and after writting my review here, that the base has a warm, christmas aroma of sandalwood and ambrette seed, which seems liked both to Samsara, Guet Apens and slightly reminiscent of Bois des Iles rich and sensual sandalwood base.
    Sculpture of Scent, i wonder if you're not getting more the vanilla on the base. Now that you said that, you reminded me that in one of the critiques of Luca Turin in his book, he says that there's an aspect in vanilla essential oil that has an old, library aroma, of old pages slightly scented. I cannot get this, but it must be there, after all this scent has a lot of facets which can be in more or less evidence to a nose according the past experience with some specific fragrances

  18. #18

    Default Re: Amouage Opus III: Initial Impressions

    Was just listening to some Bach tonight and smelled this again. What a perfect match.

    I can't believe how much I hated this scent at first, and how much I love it now. Karine Vinchon is a genius.
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  19. #19

    Default Re: Amouage Opus III: Initial Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by SculptureOfSoul View Post
    Was just listening to some Bach tonight and smelled this again. What a perfect match.

    I can't believe how much I hated this scent at first, and how much I love it now. Karine Vinchon is a genius.

    Sculpture, i think it's because the ylang ylang is quite scary at first time, but once you get used to the topnotes of ylang in Opus III, you can appreciate the best part of it, which is the heart and basenotes section of powdery flowers and woods. It really has a classic aura, of perfect proportions, and i think that the classic aura may depart most consumer bellow 30 years old.

  20. #20

    Default Re: Amouage Opus III: Initial Impressions

    Well, ylang doesn't always scare me, and I'm not sure it's just the ylang in the opening that confused/bothered me. I have a feeling it is the broom absolute, too, although I don't have any experience with broom so I can't be sure. I read a review saying that the opening smelled almost exactly like broom flowers. One of these days I'm going to order some broom absolute (need some for my perfumer's palette anyhow).

    You're definitely right though that true ylang oil can surely have some strange notes to it - nothing like the 'prettified' ylang that is so often found in perfumes. That's what I love about Opus III - it keeps some rough edges inherent in various notes, and doesn't overly refine them. Where most perfumes are like MSG laden fast food - overly sweet and vacuous, enjoyable upon first sniff but without the depth to maintain sustained interest - Opus III is like an old fashioned home cooked meal. It may seem to have less immediate flavor than the sugar and sodium laden fast food, but it has much more depth and is actually nourishing.

    I still don't think I'd wear this enough to ever go beyond owning maybe 10ml of it in sample form, but I know that I don't want to be without it!
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  21. #21

    Default Re: Amouage Opus III: Initial Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by SculptureOfSoul View Post
    Well, ylang doesn't always scare me, and I'm not sure it's just the ylang in the opening that confused/bothered me. I have a feeling it is the broom absolute, too, although I don't have any experience with broom so I can't be sure. I read a review saying that the opening smelled almost exactly like broom flowers. One of these days I'm going to order some broom absolute (need some for my perfumer's palette anyhow).

    You're definitely right though that true ylang oil can surely have some strange notes to it - nothing like the 'prettified' ylang that is so often found in perfumes. That's what I love about Opus III - it keeps some rough edges inherent in various notes, and doesn't overly refine them. Where most perfumes are like MSG laden fast food - overly sweet and vacuous, enjoyable upon first sniff but without the depth to maintain sustained interest - Opus III is like an old fashioned home cooked meal. It may seem to have less immediate flavor than the sugar and sodium laden fast food, but it has much more depth and is actually nourishing.

    I still don't think I'd wear this enough to ever go beyond owning maybe 10ml of it in sample form, but I know that I don't want to be without it!
    I'd like to smell the broom absolute too, to see if i can find it at the topnotes of Opus III. Maybe my olfact perceive the ylang note so intensively at Opus III because i smelled the ylang-ylang oils just some days before trying opus iii on skin, and i got so surprised with ylang note that the aroma got spiked at my memory. I always attribute all the facets of camphor, strange medicinal aroma, tires to the tuberose flower, so i got very surprised when i saw that ylang also had that notes too.

    Although i like Opus III, i have the same impression that you have: 10ml would last me forever, since it's not a fragrance that i feel like wanting to wear frequently.

  22. #22

    Default Re: Amouage Opus III: Initial Impressions

    I went through some of my girlfriends samples last night that I've never smelled before, and found something similar to Opus III. The scent in question? Ange ou Demon by Givenchy.

    AoD has that same ylang and almondy/woody/dry powder effect in the drydown as Opus III, but in AoD it leans a bit more feminine. The openings of the two scents are fairly different, and Opus III smells far more complex and also baroque. Even so, the similarities are there right away, and become more evident in time.

    If anyone loves the drydown of Opus III but dislikes the opening, try AoD; also those who'd like a simpler, slightly more feminine take on Opus III should try it.
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  23. #23

    Default Re: Amouage Opus III: Initial Impressions

    I should add that Ange ou Demon really pales in comparison to Opus III - it's just that it's the first scent where I smelled a similar dry, woody powder thing going on.

    Anyhow, I wanted to ask if anyone else gets a cinnamon note in the drydown? I never got it (or perhaps just didn't notice) before, although this time I am getting a cinnamon-ish note along with the dry woods and hints of vanilla, about 4 hours after applying. This is likely the benzoin, or perhaps there is a bit of cinnamon that isn't listed. It's funny because Serge Luten's newest scent is supposed to evoke the smell of buttered toast, and this phase of Opus III almost does the same with the hints of buttery carnation still lingering amidst the cinnamon and dry wood notes. This isn't gourmand though - I'd instead call it, hmm.. baroque buttered toast. The whole scent is baroque, and yet not old or stuffy. Modern baroque, as oxymoronic as that sounds.
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  24. #24

    Default Re: Amouage Opus III: Initial Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by SculptureOfSoul View Post
    I should add that Ange ou Demon really pales in comparison to Opus III - it's just that it's the first scent where I smelled a similar dry, woody powder thing going on.

    Anyhow, I wanted to ask if anyone else gets a cinnamon note in the drydown? I never got it (or perhaps just didn't notice) before, although this time I am getting a cinnamon-ish note along with the dry woods and hints of vanilla, about 4 hours after applying. This is likely the benzoin, or perhaps there is a bit of cinnamon that isn't listed. It's funny because Serge Luten's newest scent is supposed to evoke the smell of buttered toast, and this phase of Opus III almost does the same with the hints of buttery carnation still lingering amidst the cinnamon and dry wood notes. This isn't gourmand though - I'd instead call it, hmm.. baroque buttered toast. The whole scent is baroque, and yet not old or stuffy. Modern baroque, as oxymoronic as that sounds.
    I don`t get cinnamon on it, but i do get a buttery carnation accord, typical of some guerlain fragrances.

  25. #25

    Default Re: Amouage Opus III: Initial Impressions

    It was fairly brief where I noticed the cinnamon, and it was more of a mid to background note, but it was there. Of course, I am much warmer today than I normally am when wearing this scent, so maybe the heat helped bring out the note.

    I must say that there is a lot of complexity woven into what may seem to be, after a cursory sniff or two, a linear scent. It is one of those scents where the central theme never changes, but notes come and go and shift postions all the time, much like say, Lyric Man. This is a scent people shouldn't judge after only one or two wearings; to do so would be to sell Opus III short.

    The more I wear this, the more wearable it seems, and the greater my urge to wear this more often. While I know I could make do with samples for quite some time, the urge to acquire a bottle is growing. Hmm.. Christmas is right around the corner.
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  26. #26

    Default Re: Amouage Opus III: Initial Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by SculptureOfSoul View Post
    I'm especially curious about opinions regarding whether a man could realistically pull this off.
    Definitely not, in my opinion.

    I have conflicting feelings about Amouage. Other than Dia, which I own and love, I can't imagine actually wearing any of the Amouage scents. I find them to be overly strong and not particularly appealing, yet I can't help but admire the obvious quality and craftsmanship. As much as I want to like Amouage, I have to face the fact that it's just not for me.
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    5. Francois Charles by Rance 1795
    6. Puro Intense by Nejma
    7. Usiku by Jo Wood Organics
    8. New York by Parfums de Nicolai
    9. Dia For Men by Amouage
    10. Silver Mountain Water by Creed

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  27. #27

    Default Re: Amouage Opus III: Initial Impressions

    I have a favor to ask anyone who happens to own a bottle of this..

    if it's not too much trouble, could you list the ingredients that are listed on the label on the shrink wrap for this scent.
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  28. #28

    Default Re: Amouage Opus III: Initial Impressions

    It might be mixing with the remnants of Lyric Man from earlier in the day, or else my nose or skin are just behaving differently, as today I get some coumarinic cherry like notes in the drydown. There's still the dry papery/woody aroma, with a hint of ethereal cherries. It smells wonderful!
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  29. #29

    Default Re: Amouage Opus III: Initial Impressions

    Can anyone tell me how Opus III fares in the heat? I imagine a heavy wearing could easily become cloying but is it possible to pull this one off at all in summer temperatures?
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  30. #30
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    Default Re: Amouage Opus III: Initial Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by rickbr View Post
    ...Sculpture of Scent, i wonder if you're not getting more the vanilla on the base. Now that you said that, you reminded me that in one of the critiques of Luca Turin in his book, he says that there's an aspect in vanilla essential oil that has an old, library aroma, of old pages slightly scented. I cannot get this, but it must be there, after all this scent has a lot of facets which can be in more or less evidence to a nose according the past experience with some specific fragrances
    When you were originally describing the smell of 'old books' in your review above rickbr, the first thing that popped into my head was vanilla (remembering the Turin story too). In fact, I have a large, metal file cabinet that I keep in my small office and I use to file all of my bookkeeping paperwork in. I have many papers in that cabinet that are over 6-7 years old, and I swear every time I open the drawer fast and catch a whiff of it, it smells slightly sweet.

    I love that smell.

    Nonetheless, I'm not so sure I would like Opus III, after reading all of the above comments. I sort of hate ylang ylang, in all of it's banana-scented-condom weirdness.

  31. #31

    Default Re: Amouage Opus III: Initial Impressions

    While ylang is definitely present in the scent, it is, to my nose, part of such a thick and complex chord that ylang haters could very well like the scent. I don't like a "naked ylang-ylang" much, either - the note is simultaneously too sweet and funky-dirty, but here each of the facets of it, while still present, are made enjoyable. It's really quite a feat. The thick and dense dry woods, along with a waxy mimosa note and a skin-like ambrette really flesh out the scent and work in such a way that an extremely floral scent, as far as notes go, doesn't ever feel too floral and never too sweet, heady, or thin/sharp.
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  32. #32

    Default Re: Amouage Opus III: Initial Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by SculptureOfSoul View Post
    I'm especially curious about opinions regarding whether a man could realistically pull this off.
    For me, most definitely! I've worn it quite a bit over the past month and I really enjoy wearing it.

  33. #33

    Default Re: Amouage Opus III: Initial Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by SculptureOfSoul View Post
    While ylang is definitely present in the scent, it is, to my nose, part of such a thick and complex chord that ylang haters could very well like the scent. ...The thick and dense dry woods, along with a waxy mimosa note and a skin-like ambrette really flesh out the scent and work in such a way that an extremely floral scent, as far as notes go, doesn't ever feel too floral and never too sweet, heady, or thin/sharp.
    I agree. I find the use of ylang-ylang here quite restrained and well blended into the whole. I also agree that while there are many floral elements in Opus III, the fragrance as a whole doesn't come across as overtly flowery, sweet, or feminine.

  34. #34

    Default Re: Amouage Opus III: Initial Impressions

    Hi Noggs,

    How does this scent fare in the heat?
    ***For sale:

    Iris Pallida 50ml

    Ungaro I 75ml

    and more!
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  35. #35

    Default Re: Amouage Opus III: Initial Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by SculptureOfSoul View Post
    How does this scent fare in the heat?
    Sorry, but I can't really say. The temperatures had already dropped a bit when I bought Opus III, and they are even lower now. Granted, our winter isn't as cold as some other places, so it is relatively warm compared to many locations, but I couldn't say that it is hot now. Current highs are upper 70s to about 80 F.

    It was a little warmer back in mid-October. I felt comfortable wearing it then, and got a good 8-9 hours of longevity. I don't remember it ever feeling cloying or oppressive. BTW, it is by far the best selling of the Opus line here in Saudi Arabia.

    I will be able to say more about how Opus II performs in the heat in about six months!

  36. #36

    Default Re: Amouage Opus III: Initial Impressions

    I'm wearing this again today, and I must say that with each wearing I fall deeper in love with it. Such a rich, multifaceted, and natural scent. The mimosa and orange blossom and haylike broom notes evoke sunshine and optimism, while the violet and jasmine juxtapose a melancholic element.

    This is a scent that even if I didn't subjectively like it I am quite sure I would still objectively feel it was one of the finest compositions I've ever come across.

    Noggs (or anyone who owns this), do you still have the outer cellophane wrap that the box came in? If so, could you do me a huge favor and list the ingredients that are listed on that cellophane. I am just curious. Thanks!
    ***For sale:

    Iris Pallida 50ml

    Ungaro I 75ml

    and more!
    - http://www.basenotes.net/threads/301...n-Man-and-more

  37. #37

    Default Re: Amouage Opus III: Initial Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by SculptureOfSoul View Post
    Noggs (or anyone who owns this), do you still have the outer cellophane wrap that the box came in? If so, could you do me a huge favor and list the ingredients that are listed on that cellophane
    Unfortunately I no longer have the cellophane wrap. I do keep it on nearly all my boxes, but the way the Library Collection boxes are designed it wasn't practical, so I just removed it and threw it away.

  38. #38

    Default Re: Amouage Opus III: Initial Impressions

    I'm a bit late coming to this thread but I just have to add my two cents. After reading through all these posts, I have to say that I find agreement most with RickBR but the first two things that came to mind to me were Iris Silver Mist (particularly that cosmetic powdery smell) and Parfumerie Generale (in general, but also a spicy amber that I recall from l'Ombre Fauve, and for some reason Felanilla comes to mind but that's probably a misperception from the mentions of banana and bananawood). I would wear Opus III over either of those in a heartbeat - I love Opus III and did from the first second I applied it. And while it is decidedly feminine to me, it is nonetheless a remarkably enjoyable fragrance that I will continue to confidently wear as a man. Even now, I am wearing it and falling head over heals for it.

    I completely miss any violets or ylang-ylang but instantly picked up the carnation, nutmeg (which I couldn't put my finger on at first), and thyme (unusually). The nutmeg to me was oddly comforting because it's not something I usually like and I think the combination of thyme and nutmeg with the mimosa and carnation are what give a sense of serene chaos - and I think thyme is also what gives it that medicinal aspect, further adding to the chaos ("medicine" always implies something is "off"). By that I mean it wasn't chaotic to me at all, but calming and yet not in a way that a medicine can soothe and relieve - much in the way a book and take the chaos and stress of the day away with just a few paragraphs.

    Finally, I do end up with that same buttery carnation accord, typical of guerlains. And the orange blossom, although subtle, gives it that slightly "butterfly" affect that I usually get, a flutter in the stomach, a sense of nervous anxiety - dramatic tension! Overall, I find this to be incredibly well-done like most Amouage fragrances and I look forward to one day making my 2mL sample something much larger.
    Currently looking for Ava Luxe Midnight Violet

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  39. #39

    Default Re: Amouage Opus III: Initial Impressions

    While I consider myself to be a beginner EDP enthusiast, my "expert nose / fragrance stylist" recommended Opus III specifically for my wardrobe. I am waiting for the delivery and look forward to sharing my experience! I have never bought an EDP of this stature (prestige and cost) on a blind recommendation. This is exciting. I trust the person who chose this for me I actually have butterflies in my stomach. Thanks for sharing your experiences. This is exciting.
    Top Favorite Houses: Amouage / Tom Ford (name brand or private collection) / Hermes

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  40. #40

    Default Re: Amouage Opus III: Initial Impressions

    I just now applied Opus III to my skin. The opening does remind me of XXV except fruity. I am getting vanilla and bananas. I will report later on the dry down.
    Top Favorite Houses: Amouage / Tom Ford (name brand or private collection) / Hermes

    "Do the next right thing."

  41. #41

    Default Re: Amouage Opus III: Initial Impressions

    Ylang ylang and some musk now. This is decadent but I wonder how long this will last before it changes or cease.
    Top Favorite Houses: Amouage / Tom Ford (name brand or private collection) / Hermes

    "Do the next right thing."

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