Maybe it's benzoin?
Thread: What is the powdery note?
Hi, I wanted to know what the powdery note is that I am getting from many perfumes. It seems to reoccur in many Guerlain perfumes, it is in Chanel no 5... it is that baby talc type note, almost velvety. It seems to smooth out the other notes. I am guessing it is an aromachemical.
Any ideas on what it may be?
Benzoin is certainly creamy and vanillery. I have just had to go and smell mine. Put on pure (10%) it's not quite right, it's too buttery and not to the fore of the smell. It is a lighter, at the front of the perfume, dusty, talcy note I seek. It may not be a note, but the result of an accord.
Well,some part of plants like violet leaf or iris(orris) root give that powdery note in perfumes This is the natural way...the chemic one note ...hmmm...i don't know !
Oh!The ambergris is very powdery ,too!
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The powder note is probably an accord of multiple aromachemicals and possibly some naturals. Various ionones (components of violet/orris/iris) are probably a basic component. Other things that can be added to spin it various ways would be musks, vanilla or benzoin, anisaldehyde, heliotropin, acacia or mimosa absolute, etc.
The reason I ask is because of the many Guerlains I have just tried. These in particular had much of it within many of them. It's an instantly recognisable smell but nothing I can pin down. It seems to be something more common in the better quality perfumes.
When I am mixing, bearing in mind I am no expert, many of my blends can be quite harsh when you first smell them, despite settling down to quite nice things afterwards. I feel if I can gain this softer powder feel on the opening that I would be getting somewhere.
I shall try mixing up some of these things and see what happens. I have some of those ingredients on the natural side.
I nearly had quite a nice powdery thing going on my hand earlier using benzoin, agarwood, ambrette, amber/musk attar and blue lotus, but I think it was the strong lotus carrying the rest. It is the nearest I have to Iris.
I think Violet seems to be a must in an organ, and heliotrope too. Can one ever have enough ingredients????...... no.
The distinctive powdery base note in Guerlain fragrances is Guerlinade, an accord created about 90 years ago and is prominent in many of their older fragrances, most commonly noted today in Shalimar. The actual formula is a trade secret, but i've seen it said it contains bergamot, jasmine, rose, orange blossom, iris, tonka bean, and vanilla. Dollars to donuts, the iris, tonka, and vanilla molecules in addition to some musk or another, are the culprits for that powdery base note. Hope this is helpful and good luck.
The pleasure is all mine. Let us know how your experiments pan out.