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  1. #1

    Default Frederic Malle Iris Poudre

    Hello

    I've been regularly going to Holt Renfrew here in Toronto since they got the Frederic Malle line, and I'm quite impressed by several of them. I'm staying in Toronto for another month or two then going back to Kuwait where Frederic Malle is not available, so I wanted to pick up 2 or 3 bottles, of course the price is discouraging but I'm basically not going to movies or eating anything fancy.

    So far I already got Musc Ravageur. The second fragrance that attracted me the most was a fragrance that smelled like Chanel no 5 just more modern and slightly more masculine (Sandalwood and a little bit of fruit notes). However it was on a card and I can't for the life of me tell which one it is, since there were 2 other cards with a powdery aldehyde vibe. Some basenoters said Noire Epice smells like Channel no5, but I absolutely don't see that, that one is just vile. The other one which I have on my arm right now is Iris Poudre, but I was stupid enough to go cooking so it go messed up, I know it's a floral aldehyde but not sure if that's the one.

    Could you guys help me on what that fragrance could possibly be that lovely contemporary chanel no5? And if it's Iris Poudre, how long does it last and how much does it project for you?

    And while we're on the subject of frederic malle, which of his fragrances do you recommend? So far I didn't like French Lover, Carnal Flower is not for me, Vetiver Extraordinaire is fabulous but it's just a weaker Encre Noire to my nose, L'eau d'Hiver is all around pleasant, but it's a shower-gel smelling forgettable fragrance.

    -Ekove

  2. #2

    Default Re: Frederic Malle Iris Poudre

    Im not sure about Iris Poudre, but i agree with you about Noir Epices, just way too fizzy, French Lover and Carnal Flower are some of the more popular ones its a shame you didnt like them, but while im a fan of those, i could also recommend Bigarade Concentree, great fuity, orange blast of a smell, only works in hot weather though.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Frederic Malle Iris Poudre

    Quote Originally Posted by jlouismi View Post
    Im not sure about Iris Poudre, but i agree with you about Noir Epices, just way too fizzy, French Lover and Carnal Flower are some of the more popular ones its a shame you didnt like them, but while im a fan of those, i could also recommend Bigarade Concentree, great fuity, orange blast of a smell, only works in hot weather though.
    Thanks for the reply, I like Carnal flower but I feel it's something I see my mom wearing and not me. French Lover I'll definitely have to give another go, I'm really becoming to realize Frederic malle is all about the dry downs, and most of the fragrances from this house have unimpressive or even unpleasant openings.

    As for Bigarade Concentree, I really liked that one, but I dismissed it immediately because I knew that type of fragrance doesn't last or project. I'd consider Eau d'Hermes or d'Orage verte concentree over it. But I might be wrong, does it last and project? or will I have to get put it in a small decant and reapply it every 2 hours?

  4. #4

    Default Re: Frederic Malle Iris Poudre

    Quote Originally Posted by Ekove View Post
    I'm really becoming to realize Frederic malle is all about the dry downs, and most of the fragrances from this house have unimpressive or even unpleasant openings.
    I think you hit the nail on the head here, most of the top notes of these fragrances will put so many people off, but the drydowns are amazing, Geranium pour Monsieur is a good example of this, as is French Lover.
    Bigarade Concentree is a strange one in terms of longevity and projection. I have dry skin so only in intense heat will it work for me, and even then i do about 5 sprays to my neck alone. A decant might be the way to go with this scent, but there is no denying its superb quality, this has the best opening of any of the Malle scents in my opinion.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Frederic Malle Iris Poudre

    Quote Originally Posted by jlouismi View Post
    I think you hit the nail on the head here, most of the top notes of these fragrances will put so many people off, but the drydowns are amazing, Geranium pour Monsieur is a good example of this, as is French Lover.
    Bigarade Concentree is a strange one in terms of longevity and projection. I have dry skin so only in intense heat will it work for me, and even then i do about 5 sprays to my neck alone. A decant might be the way to go with this scent, but there is no denying its superb quality, this has the best opening of any of the Malle scents in my opinion.
    Yeah it was the only one I loved the opening of, aside from VE.

    I completely forgot about Geranium pour Monsieur, gotta try that one. I'm glad I'm not the only one who finds most of those fragrances to have bad openings, but magical dry downs.

    Thanks again for your reply,
    -Ekove

  6. #6
    rogalal's Avatar
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    Default Re: Frederic Malle Iris Poudre

    You have to be talking about Iris Poudre - that's the one that's like a modern, unisex No. 5.

    It has a heavy blast of aldehydes, so it tends to knock out my nose so I don't smell it, while there are big clouds of it all around me that everyone else smells. I've found that the best way to fight this is to layer it with the body cream, which is heavier on the basenotes, so it smells more balanced (and messes with my nose less) when they're worn together.
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  7. #7

    Default Re: Frederic Malle Iris Poudre

    Quote Originally Posted by rogalal View Post
    You have to be talking about Iris Poudre - that's the one that's like a modern, unisex No. 5.

    It has a heavy blast of aldehydes, so it tends to knock out my nose so I don't smell it, while there are big clouds of it all around me that everyone else smells. I've found that the best way to fight this is to layer it with the body cream, which is heavier on the basenotes, so it smells more balanced (and messes with my nose less) when they're worn together.
    Ah, thanks, and also thanks for the tip.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Frederic Malle Iris Poudre

    IMO, the best of the line aside from Musc Ravageur (that's just in a whole other league) is Angeliques sous la Pluie. I truly disliked Vetiver Extraordinaire when I first tried it, but it, like many others recently, has begun to grow on me. Regardless of my personal stance on it, I DON'T find it to be a lighter Encre Noire. I find VE to be a pretty tenacious and airy take on vetiver. Encre Noire has no airiness or brightness to it on my skin.
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  9. #9

    Default Re: Frederic Malle Iris Poudre

    Also, I NEED to sample Iris Poudre. It's one of those that has gone in and out of my cart at TPC many times, but I've never pulled the trigger for whatever reason. I'm an iris fan, so one more sampled can't possibly hurt, I just question how unisex it is.
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  10. #10

    Default Re: Frederic Malle Iris Poudre

    Hey mtgprox,

    I have to give those two a try as well, I'm tempted to get the 10ml set of the whole line but it's very very very expensive. As for Iris Poudre, it's not an Iris fragrance at all! and yes it's still somewhat feminine, it just gets more masculine towards the dry down due to the sandalwood. I would say people are exaggerating by saying it's the male version of Chanel no5, it's just a more masculine version.

    I'm still not sure that's the one, since I killed whatever was sprayed on my arm today, I'm waiting for the sheet to dry down. comparing to the one I'm looking for which I got last week, that one has a very sweet dry down. At almost say it's musc ravageur with aldehyde flowers when it comes to the dry down. God I really want to figure out which one that is, the paper smells so good and it's over a week old.

    What other powdery fragrances aside from Iris Poudre and Musc Ravageur are there? I know Noire Epices is one, I just can't stand the pepper note in it, and 8 hours after application it still not gone, still middle notes, I only wish fragrances I loved would still be half way through after that much time.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Frederic Malle Iris Poudre

    I'm loving Iris Poudre, but I'm starting to suspect it's not the one I have in mind as it approaches the dry down on the card I got.

    The one I seem to be looking for is significantly stronger, slightly sweeter, it's sort of musc ravageur with aldehyde flowers, speaking of the dry down that is. could it be lipstick rose? That's another one with a powdery quality as far as I know.

    Anybody familiar with Frederic Malle's line could shed some light on this?

  12. #12

    Default Re: Frederic Malle Iris Poudre

    Have you tried Une Fleur de Cassie? Sounds as if you should have.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Frederic Malle Iris Poudre

    Nope, but that's the one I'm most excited about at the moment...Goddamn I wish FM would just release a sample set like the ones offered a while back.

  14. #14

    Default Re: Frederic Malle Iris Poudre

    I think they offer here a travel set with three frags, but they are damn expensive in this form.

  15. #15

    Default Re: Frederic Malle Iris Poudre

    Quote Originally Posted by Larimar View Post
    I think they offer here a travel set with three frags, but they are damn expensive in this form.
    Yeah 3x10m, goes for $100, not bad for 30ml when the 100ml goes for $100. They problem is their samples are hard to find, they offer 2ml from the website at about $12 each, not that is ridiculous. It's really sad when all fragrances by this house are all about the dry down, and the experience, you can't just go smell it at the mall and know if you like it or not. Yet at the same time, samples are damn hard to find/expensive. They actually still sell the set with the 10ml decants of the whole line where I live, but I'm expecting it costs no less than $500. I'd love to have it, but that's too expensive.

    I'm still wondering what that incredibly lovely powdery aldehyde fragrance is...

  16. #16
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    Default Re: Frederic Malle Iris Poudre

    Iris Poudre is my SotD for tomorrow. Here's my capsule review of it:
    Smooth and stunning in its opening, this scent is a pure floral-aldehyde masterpiece. The aldehydic rose-violet note makes its appearance alongside the top notes, and then the whole settles into its floral-aldehyde heart and woody oriental and musky base notes, quieting a bit and dropping a notch from its initial peak. The rest of the ride is milder, and more intimate and charming as it wins you over with seductive murmurs of slightly powdery sweetness.
    I second the recommendations of Une Fleur de Cassie as well.
    Yr good bud,

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  17. #17

    Default Re: Frederic Malle Iris Poudre

    Quote Originally Posted by JaimeB View Post
    Iris Poudre is my SotD for tomorrow. Here's my capsule review of it:
    Smooth and stunning in its opening, this scent is a pure floral-aldehyde masterpiece. The aldehydic rose-violet note makes its appearance alongside the top notes, and then the whole settles into its floral-aldehyde heart and woody oriental and musky base notes, quieting a bit and dropping a notch from its initial peak. The rest of the ride is milder, and more intimate and charming as it wins you over with seductive murmurs of slightly powdery sweetness.
    I second the recommendations of Une Fleur de Cassie as well.
    Thanks for the mini-review, that sounds exactly like what I'm looking for! I was getting paranoid Have you guys tried the body cream for it or for any of FM creations for layering? They sound so good as well. Ahhh, so much for saving my money for Kuwait's perfume exhibition, this house is taking all of it since it made it's appearance here.

  18. #18

    Default Re: Frederic Malle Iris Poudre

    If it's not Iris Poudre, I think your next stop must be Une Fleur de Cassie. I'll also add the oddball choice of Lipstick Rose as one to try; it's slightly aldehydic, powdery, and very "vintage" smelling though it doesn't resemble No. 5.

  19. #19

    Default Re: Frederic Malle Iris Poudre

    As for looking for a "male" No. 5, give Eau Premier a try. It's great.

  20. #20

    Default Re: Frederic Malle Iris Poudre

    Quote Originally Posted by Sugandaraja View Post
    If it's not Iris Poudre, I think your next stop must be Une Fleur de Cassie. I'll also add the oddball choice of Lipstick Rose as one to try; it's slightly aldehydic, powdery, and very "vintage" smelling though it doesn't resemble No. 5.
    I shall try those next 3, Une Fleur de Cassie seems really exciting, at least to try if not to purchase. I think I'm finally settled on Iris Poudre now. I'm probably getting one of the body lotions as well

  21. #21

    Default Re: Frederic Malle Iris Poudre

    Oh! What about En Passant? Is the one your thinking of, slightly "watery" in texture? En Passant has a "bread" note that does in fact add a bit of doughyness to the scent.
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  22. #22

    Default Re: Frederic Malle Iris Poudre

    Quote Originally Posted by mtgprox05 View Post
    Oh! What about En Passant? Is the one your thinking of, slightly "watery" in texture? En Passant has a "bread" note that does in fact add a bit of doughyness to the scent.
    yet to try this one, did not like the reviews. Lilacs and greens, very soft. The ones I'm talking about is very rich and strong, as I said, 2 weeks on test paper and still easily detectable, while every other one I tried is gone except for Carnal flower.

  23. #23

    Default Re: Frederic Malle Iris Poudre

    En Passant is delicate in how it smells, but it's quite long-lasting on me. Got some on a wallet by accident once, and it smelled like En Passant for a good few weeks.

    Probably my favorite Frederic Malle, too...

  24. #24

    Default Re: Frederic Malle Iris Poudre

    Quote Originally Posted by Sugandaraja View Post
    En Passant is delicate in how it smells, but it's quite long-lasting on me. Got some on a wallet by accident once, and it smelled like En Passant for a good few weeks.

    Probably my favorite Frederic Malle, too...
    Ahh, I'll end up buying the 10 ml decants set instead of two full bottles at this rate. Should give this one a try as well now, even though I'm almost certain it's between Iris Poudre and Lipstick rose at the moment.

    Not sure what my 3rd Frederic Malle should be though, already have (or want) two of the powdery ones. Goddamn it's Tom Ford private blend all over again, just more confusing.

  25. #25

    Default Re: Frederic Malle Iris Poudre

    Hard to go wrong in sampling this line. There are just so many great fragrances in one line!

  26. #26

    Default Re: Frederic Malle Iris Poudre

    Smell Stephen Jones by Commes de Garcon first , much better quality, and concentration.

  27. #27

    Default Re: Frederic Malle Iris Poudre

    you mean this one?
    http://www.basenotes.net/ID26129490/reviews.html
    The reviews don't seem good but I like what's it's supposed to be. I doubt I'll find it, commes des Garcons are hard to come by in Canada and this is some sort of special edition? But most people seem to agree it's synthetic, a little too expensive for a 50ml if that's the case. I'll try to find it nevertheless, thanks.

  28. #28

    Default Re: Frederic Malle Iris Poudre

    Hello guys,

    I have made my 3rd visit to try the Frederic Malle line, and I have come to my decision, almost, here are my findings:

    Bigarade concentree: This smelt great on paper, yummy orange ice cream. On my skin, it still smelt very good, of all of Ellena's creations, many of which revolve around the bitter orange theme, this seems to be the one he perfected. Actually his only fragrance that I loved. Longevity and projection seem quite decent for such a natural smelling citrus. However I was dressed up for winter today, and when it got really hot at noon, it started smelling bad. Now that the sweat has dried it smells really really good, it seems like it works in hot weather but doesn't mix well with sweat at all. A summer fragrance that can not be worn in summer. I still really like it and don't want to judge it from one wearing.

    Angeliques Sous la Pluie: A floral Aquatic (?), not a fan of either category, very refreshing though. Nothing impressive, another very short live boring creation by Jean-Claude Ellena.

    L'Eau d'Hiver: Smells like fresh generic shower gel. Not bad, not something I'd like to smell like. However I got to give Ellena credit for his first fragrance that I feel is unique, at least as a perfume. I can think of many shower gels that smell like it.

    Dans Tes Bras: Very confusing fragrance, this needs more testing for sure.

    En Passant: LILACS! Lots of them, this does what it does very well. Sadly not for me, but I respect it.

    French Lover: Not impressed with it again, it's unique, but average. Needs more testing I didn't pay much attention to it this time either.

    Geranium pour Monsieur: WOW, The ultimate minty cooling fragrance, very natural with a strong opening. It's not worth the price but I'll probably get a decant of it, I don't LOVE it, or find it that unique, but it feels like something I should have in my collection.

    Iris Poudre: While it turns out this was not the fragrance I'm looking for, I have fallen in love with this. Chanel no5 for men, just fabulous, clean, aldehydic, yet unisex fragrance. It's a little weak though so I might layer it with some powdery/amber fragrance.

    Une Fleur de Cassie: Yep, that was it, sweet aldehyde powder. This is pretty much Chanel no5 multiplied by 10 when it comes to the opening, way too much aldehyde with some Jasmine, rose, violets and some other flowers, not bad, but I wouldn't go out for 10 mins after applying. Then the middle notes approach and as opposed to the animalic, urinal, skunky fragrance many people describe, on my skin it's very clean and innocent, and by clean I mean floral clean. It sort of smells like cotton, way too innocent and floral for me. After about 3 or 4 hours, it finally settles to one of the most beautiful aldehyde, powdery, floral dry downs I've ever smelt. This is one of the most complex developments I've ever smelt and it goes back and forth. Sadly, I don't think I'd like to go through 4 horrible hours to get to that dry down, no wonder it took me 3 visits to pin it down.

    Lipstick rose: I still love this fragrance, smells like vintage makeup/powder and candy. Very playful and young, though I don't find it wearable for a guy or a woman, however I feel it's very good for layering. Another decant worthy fragrance.

    Noir Epice: Favorite of many, including the nice SA. It smells ok on paper, on me, it smells like the pepper is trying to choke down the florals. An absolute no no.

    Vetiver Extraordinaire: Boy was I quick to judge this beauty! I though, hey this is encre noire light, but no, Vetiver Extraordinaire is way more perfected. It's basically 80% Encre Noire 20% Tom Ford Grey Vetiver. It's a true, hardcore vetiver that is extremely wearable. I still love Encre Noire more, but never feel I can wearing most of the time, so I just reach for Grey Vetiver, which is wearable but basically not a very true vetiver. Vetiver Extraordinaire is perfect, earthy, mysterious, confident, yet fresh and welcoming.

    So for my final decision for the bottles:
    A. Iris Poudre
    B. Vetiver Extraordinaire

    Runner ups:
    C. Fleur de Cassie
    D. Bigarade Concentree


    Thank you if you read my mini-reviews, any more feedback is also welcome.

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