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  1. #1
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    Exclamation SPOILER Thread - Please Don't Read Until You've Posted Your Impressions

    Feel free to discuss the scents in this forum, but for those who don't want to read about them yet, you may wish to avoid here and stick to the feedback forum for the moment.
    Grant said we could discuss the samples of the new BN scents here, but asked that those of us who have not posted our impressions yet should do so first, so as to present unbiased opinions. Therefore, I am kindly asking that people who are sampling, but who have not yet posted their impressions of all three scents, NOT read any further, until you have posted at least your initial impressions.

    Well - as far as I'm concerned, these three scents are among the most exciting of the fall season, and I'd much rather discuss them than, oh, say, Bleu de Chanel. SOOOO....

    Thus being warned of SPOILER material.....

    ...for those who have sniffed and posted about A, B, and C...

    ...how about we let the discussion begin?
    * * * *

  2. #2
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    Default Re: SPOILER Thread - Please Don't Read Until You've Posted Your Impressions

    I guess I'll begin. I've worn all three now - two of them to work. I haven't worn "Her Purse" out of the house yet, but I've really enjoyed wearing the other two. I wore Kevin's scent with a suit for a special occasion, and I thought it was quite awesome - it worked for me as well as my other formal scents, although it seems more versatile. Just one spray, and I had about an hour of close sillage. It holds together very wonderfully up front, and then as it evolves, it becomes very diffuse and radiant. I just love it. Dimitri's scent is more of a "go to" fragrance for me. I feel like I can wear it in the same situations where I would reach for Edition Blanche and several others with a similar powdery vibe. I really love the opening on that one. Very ethereal - mystical, even. Her Purse is - to my nose - a bit feminine. I agree with a friend that it's guy-wearable, but it still has a feminine vibe which is very elegant. It's a very clean and very excellent-smelling purse! I found it sexy in a posh way, unlike most typical "sexy" scents.

    Overall, I think that the briefs were interpreted very, very skillfully and very faithfully. I felt that I was detecting multiple nuances of every "story" from the briefs, as well as the stated ideas of the perfumers. I am quite happy with the results. I do believe that they have to be worn on skin or clothing to be appreciated. Sniffed directly from the bottles, I did not get the full effect of any of them, and the smells on the spray heads were almost misleading in some ways. Worn on skin, they just bloomed.

    Great job, CPL perfumers!

    (PS - I'm assuming that I figured out which one was which. The lipstick and the leathery chypre seemed pretty clear to me, although I could have been fooled if I have the aromatic notes of what I'm calling Dimitri's scent and the chypre of Kevin's mixed up, and the leather is so suede that it passes for powder. The lipstick is certainly unmistakable in Her Purse! )
    * * * *

  3. #3

    Default Re: SPOILER Thread - Please Don't Read Until You've Posted Your Impressions

    Hey Redneck! Very nice to hear your impressions...agreed that the CPL perfumers have created some nice first drafts! Suprisingly, my biggest gripe is with C. It smells big & green on paper/fabric and when I put it to skin it is gamey/oily/off-putting. Wish I was getting the same effect as you!
    B starts out strong/interesting/attention getting but dries down a bit boring into the land of neverending acquatics.
    A is nice....too much musk and sweet woods though...it also could uses some 'distinction'. As it stands, everything is too blended. Once it's tweaked it should be an AWESOME perfume!

  4. #4
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    Default Re: SPOILER Thread - Please Don't Read Until You've Posted Your Impressions

    ^ Thanks for your impressions as well, Ubu! I have to admit that my skin is very kind to most fragrances - I could tell by the improvement over paper that they were clearly designed to work on skin like mine. C changed for me as well, but in a positive direction. It was basically to what you said - big and green. Then a very beautiful sharpness - leather or chypre-like - comes in. But not always. A couple of times, the really nice skin opening didn't happen for me, and I was doing a "huh?".

    When I follow the opening of C on my skin, it takes an interesting path where it starts out as you describe (kind of off-putting) but becomes more focused and more beautiful fairly soon, then goes out of focus again later, but in a nice way. If you're never getting movement into the beautiful state, I can see why you would be disappointed.

    Yes, I agree that the B drydown loses some steam. For me, the original "hook note" remains, and I'm a happy camper. But there are some interesting notes from the opening that might do very well to linger. I didn't really get any aquatic stuff, but lots of freshness, which I happen to love (I think that my nose experiences many aquatics in a "non-marine" fashion). In many ways, I feel like the fresh aspects are done better than many of my favorite designer freshies, although I can imagine this isn't going to be popular with those who find the genre generally uninteresting.

    What you say about A makes sense. I feel like I can pick out the components, but it takes more effort than I would like. Perhaps ramping up one of the heart components, or diminishing the ones you mention, would make it more distinguished. I agree that increasing the musk or woods would likely have the opposite effect.

    As tough as it has been to analyze three scents, I think I'm not going to be able to do much more than vote when there are nine!

    Very nice. Thanks for posting! I can really see how your thoughts could lead constructively to some very positive tweaks.
    * * * *

  5. #5

    Default Re: SPOILER Thread - Please Don't Read Until You've Posted Your Impressions

    I already posted this, but why not in another area.

    Fragrance "B" is a copy of Hanae Mori for men, which I hate - it begins with a good amount of citrus and mint, but ends up smelling like lime skittles with a touch of vanilla - i don't understand the appeal of this kind of scent. It kind of reminds me of an undeveloped and weak Bond No. 9.

    Fragrance "A" is a copy of Escada Pacific Paradise, which I really like on girls - very tropical - a prominent synthetic pineapple with a touch of floral musk, but I think that a lot of people find cheap-smelling (I don't think it does). I think this is a pretty polarizing scent - either you love the mix of sexy and candy or you find it repulsive. All in all, this is not sophisticated perfumery IMO.

    However, Fragrance "C" is by far the most interesting of the lot. At first, it smells like dirty, earthy, smokey, fatty, burnt - almost repugnant - like a meaty vetiver such as Fat Electrician from ELO, but later becomes a lovely wet, dirty floral - I smell rose, violet and some other pungent flowers. It's like a more realistic and satisfying Gucci Envy. I find it to be more on the feminine side, but I can see this bordering on a unisex floral for those daring gents. Overall, it's the most original and interesting of the three, and I think it should survive the cut.

  6. #6

    Default Re: SPOILER Thread - Please Don't Read Until You've Posted Your Impressions

    This was a disappointing experience, there is no "there" there! I find two of them timid and short lived and one is a basic linear leather and not much else.

    Sigh..maybe I am not the right person to judge these scents. I mean, I use Black Orchid as a comfort scent, I like a bit of Sturm und Drang on my skin. I guess I was hoping for more boldness, I had this idea in my head that the testing would be about scaling back rather than having to add, that we would have beasts roaring out of the bottles, beasts that needed to be tamed

  7. #7

    Default Re: SPOILER Thread - Please Don't Read Until You've Posted Your Impressions

    I think that all three have merits, the weakest interpretation (weak as in sillage/longevity and general impression) has to be A. It does seem that A is Her Purse (yes to the lipstick and leather in that one), B is Dimitri's with the odd notes up front, and C a green leather chypre that has to be Kevin's. (that one is like a bolder sister to Bandit on me, and like Bandit, layers well with Bulgari Black, and is even more "ballsy" because of it. I'd almost like to see Scent C become more LIKE a blend of Scent C and BB.)

    Scent B is the most intriguing as it does move from note to note somewhat effortlessly.

    Scent A, to my nose, needs a little more of everything to pull off Quarry's brief and the perfumers' statement flawlessly, but it's pretty close... if only it didn't become a faint skin scent so quickly. (I do like it and it DOES have all the nostalgic notes of a well-loved and well-used purse that has contained and absorbed the scents of the trappings of a sophisticated lady.)

    I believe the perfumers did a knockout job here.
    [URL="http://www.basenotes.net/fragrancereviews/38140"][B]Actias luna's fragrance reviews[/B][/URL] | Now blogging with [i]AromiErotici, Carrie Meredith, Mimi Gardenia, Sugandaraja, Asha, bluesoul, shamu1, Redneck Perfumisto and Daly Beauty[/i] at [URL="http://aromierotici.blogspot.com/"][B]Il Mondo di Odore[/B][/URL] [URL="http://www.ebsqart.com/Artist/Kathleen-Harper/3794/Art-Portfolio/1/"]
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  8. #8
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    Default Re: SPOILER Thread - Please Don't Read Until You've Posted Your Impressions

    In looking at Kevin's brief, I saw that it was originally conceived as a leather oriental, and (as it would be in layering with Bulgari Black) I can see that it could stand to be more overtly oriental in character. That could definitely be a good variation.

    I had not really thought of B as gourmand, but in going back to it, I see those aspects now. I'm a fan of Hanae Mori HM, and I agree that there are similarities - especially to the EDP, although I also see similarities to the Chanel Allure series.

    Overall, BNers seem to love strong frags, so I can understand why C is generally so well-received here.
    * * * *

  9. #9

    Default Re: SPOILER Thread - Please Don't Read Until You've Posted Your Impressions

    Hanae Mori HM and B similar? I know that I absolutely loathed HM and although I no longer have a sample to compare, the experience to me of Scent B is completely different. HM reminded me of the worst qualities of that "cappuccino" that comes out of machines in convenience stores... too sweet, too fake, and overall just a synthetic mess on my skin. (I actually compared it to convenience store hanging car air fresheners it was that icky on me.) Admittedly, my nose sometimes goes off on an odd little tangent (sometimes I think my nose may have done psychedelics in the sixties while I wasn't paying attention, and is now suffering olfactory flashbacks!) But without the HM sample for comparison, who knows?

    I always find it interesting when we compare notes on... compared notes. There's quite a wide range of experiences already in this thread of how each scent develops. And yes, I am waffling too on which is Kevin's and which is Dimitri's, as it seems there is a good bit of Dimitri's brief to Scent C but the floral and leather seems more like Kevin's. And for that matter, the washed suede and trampled musk of Kevin's is present in Scent A. I'm confused, but in a pleasant way.
    [URL="http://www.basenotes.net/fragrancereviews/38140"][B]Actias luna's fragrance reviews[/B][/URL] | Now blogging with [i]AromiErotici, Carrie Meredith, Mimi Gardenia, Sugandaraja, Asha, bluesoul, shamu1, Redneck Perfumisto and Daly Beauty[/i] at [URL="http://aromierotici.blogspot.com/"][B]Il Mondo di Odore[/B][/URL] [URL="http://www.ebsqart.com/Artist/Kathleen-Harper/3794/Art-Portfolio/1/"]
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  10. #10

    Default Re: SPOILER Thread - Please Don't Read Until You've Posted Your Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by Redneck Perfumisto View Post
    In looking at Kevin's brief, I saw that it was originally conceived as a leather oriental, and (as it would be in layering with Bulgari Black) I can see that it could stand to be more overtly oriental in character. That could definitely be a good variation.
    If in fact Scent C is after my brief, I agree that it is less of an oriental than a chypre. A dash of coumarin would help bring it more towards an oriental, but would risk turning it powdery. I'd like it to have more of the washed and trampled feel I asked for, but how one does this is beyond my grasp. Also, I'd like to see the sweetness taken down a notch.
    I'm wearing Scent A today and I find that its syrupy sweetness can get a little too cloying with its birch tar. It needs a lighter hand and a clearer floral heart.
    Scent B's spearmint note is well done and a nice match to the anise note. I like it much better on my skin than I did on the test strip. With some more work this one could be a real winner.

  11. #11
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    Default Re: SPOILER Thread - Please Don't Read Until You've Posted Your Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin Guyer View Post
    If in fact Scent C is after my brief, I agree that it is less of an oriental than a chypre. A dash of coumarin would help bring it more towards an oriental, but would risk turning it powdery. I'd like it to have more of the washed and trampled feel I asked for, but how one does this is beyond my grasp. Also, I'd like to see the sweetness taken down a notch.
    I'm wearing Scent A today and I find that its syrupy sweetness can get a little too cloying with its birch tar. It needs a lighter hand and a clearer floral heart.
    Scent B's spearmint note is well done and a nice match to the anise note. I like it much better on my skin than I did on the test strip. With some more work this one could be a real winner.
    Good to hear your thoughts, Kevin. I agree that powder might not be a good thing for C. The mood of the brief seems ambery and dark, and perhaps the composition needs to lean that way a bit. I did get some of that, plus a touch of smoke, the first two times I wore it, and it was really great.

    I definitely got the washed and trampled feel from C - the musks seemed properly muted and devoid of any kind of skank or sharpness. There was also a wet feeling that I thought really answered the brief. I got that more the first time I wore it, but not as much the second time. In my most recent wear, I got a strong sense of those old bar-soap musks from my youth. It was very nostalgic, and I thought also was responsive to the feel of the brief. However, the musky notes are a bit too clean to really answer "trampled". Perhaps a touch of beeswax could add that trampled-down (rather than self-controlled) muskiness you're thinking of.

    My only complaint is that I don't get the same magnificent experience every time with C. It seems variable, possibly with my skin's cleanliness or oiliness. I'll have to give it some more wears this week.

    I'm having mixed feelings about B. One day I love it, the next day I'm so-so on it. Not sure what's up with that. Probably needs another wear this week as well.
    * * * *

  12. #12

    Default Re: SPOILER Thread - Please Don't Read Until You've Posted Your Impressions

    upon further review and a side by side comparison with HM for men, I must say that B is much smoother, less synthetic and I really don't get the "vanilla skittles" that I do from HM. I think it's nice - it has a nice minty/limey/anise accord that becomes muted and mixes well with some wood - probably cedar and possibly patchouli in the drydown. I do appreciate this more than I did, but I'm just not a huge fan of this kind of scent. I think the mint could be toned down in favor of something more earthy - maybe adding vetiver might make this a very interesting fragrance.

    I still like C - I love leathers and this one has some crushed old world flowers and that sort of meaty animal that reminds me of both civet and lamb roasting in the oven - yeah, weird I know. However, in the latter phase, the cooked meat accord is toned down. I think right now, it is a little spare and could definitely use a balancing factor. Why not amber? I would prefer that to coumarin. Like a dry, smoldering amber akin to L'air du Desert Marocain.

  13. #13

    Default Re: SPOILER Thread - Please Don't Read Until You've Posted Your Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by jr8399 View Post
    ......C - I love leathers and this one has some crushed old world flowers and that sort of meaty animal that reminds me of both civet and lamb roasting in the oven - yeah, weird I know. However, in the latter phase, the cooked meat accord is toned down. I think right now, it is a little spare and could definitely use a balancing factor. Why not amber? I would prefer that to coumarin. Like a dry, smoldering amber akin to L'air du Desert Marocain.
    I think you hit the nail on the head by calling this one "a little spare" - it does seem a bit short on ingredients/notes.
    It's interesting that both you and Redneck mention the idea of amber. I really did have amber - my favorite type of fragrance - in mind with my brief. The warm orange glow feels like an element that was left out by the perfumer and I hope the entire composition goes through some more distressing in the next round. The opening bitter element isn't quite bitter enough yet, but as it stands, I could certainly wear it as is. God, this is fun!

  14. #14

    Default Re: SPOILER Thread - Please Don't Read Until You've Posted Your Impressions

    so let's get some amber thrown in the mix and see what happens! too much and this could easily lose balance, but just the right amount, and I stress dry and smoldering, and this could be what I would call a badass scent.

  15. #15

    Default Re: SPOILER Thread - Please Don't Read Until You've Posted Your Impressions

    Hello Grant,

    Not that I want to appear impatient - how many Basenoters are we waiting on to post their initial reviews of Samples A, B, and C ?

    Also Grant, what's the rough timetable from here, for the development of these fragrances?


    Cheers

  16. #16

    Default Re: SPOILER Thread - Please Don't Read Until You've Posted Your Impressions

    Holy Peter Paul and Mary! My samples arrived today, exactly 46 days after Grant put them in the post!
    I was sick with worry!

    I've managed not to read any comments in this thread (despite it nearly killing me), and look forward to contributing my comments tomorrow. Right now I'm off to work so ive not so much as even *sniffed* them yet!

    Happy days!

  17. #17

    Default Re: SPOILER Thread - Please Don't Read Until You've Posted Your Impressions

    Dimi, we want to hear from you!

  18. #18

    Default Re: SPOILER Thread - Please Don't Read Until You've Posted Your Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin Guyer View Post
    Dimi, we want to hear from you!
    Yes we do... if only a little bit...

    (can't wait can't wait can't wait!!!) < oops >
    [URL="http://www.basenotes.net/fragrancereviews/38140"][B]Actias luna's fragrance reviews[/B][/URL] | Now blogging with [i]AromiErotici, Carrie Meredith, Mimi Gardenia, Sugandaraja, Asha, bluesoul, shamu1, Redneck Perfumisto and Daly Beauty[/i] at [URL="http://aromierotici.blogspot.com/"][B]Il Mondo di Odore[/B][/URL] [URL="http://www.ebsqart.com/Artist/Kathleen-Harper/3794/Art-Portfolio/1/"]
    [B]Art[/B]: Actias luna's other hobby[/URL] - along with some impromptu [URL="http://www.basenotes.net/threads/268480-Why-Mouchoir-de-Monsieur-Act-III-Resumed"]"performance writing"[/URL] here on Basenotes!

  19. #19

    Default Re: SPOILER Thread - Please Don't Read Until You've Posted Your Impressions

    Ooh heck! Yes, sorry!
    Ive bruised my tailbone so Im not sitting in my office chair nearly as much as I normally do! Promise later today I'll post some comments from a laptop in the boudoir!

  20. #20

    Default Re: SPOILER Thread - Please Don't Read Until You've Posted Your Impressions

    OK, here are some of my thoughts.

    Sample A I feel is Quarry's brief. I like this one, and certainly get the leather/powdery aspect, but find it falls short as it is right now. It does have an interesting dry down though: one that had me sniffing again and again. What I'd like to say is "turn the volume up!" It feels like a pale, pretty skinscent to me as it is, but I think if I were designing a perfume called "Her Purse", I'd go for gold! I'd perhaps play with nuances between hard leather (outer) and napped leather (inner). I just reached for my wife's handbag and took a big deep breath inside. The leather is sweet, and the residual perfume left on her scarf a colourful bouquet garni of spicy florals. I could smell her multivitamins and bitter brass snap closures. I think "Her Purse" could embrace some of these physical aspects with more vibrancy and pizzazz.

    Sample B is mine I think. I found the opening to be rather interesting... though perhaps not as malodorous as I might have imagined. Initially it felt a bit like a fougere to me but with a healthy dose of mint. Whilst there is a rather caustic greenness there (absinthe/buckthorn/fern???) I was just aching for some more fetid stank. A measure of cumin perhaps to shave some of the green edges off and anchor it a little more. Through its transition I felt as though I got a whiff of synthetic oud(!)... or rather it reminded me of that Bond No9 "signature" scent released last year which was a "Western oud" perfume. It was a touch medicinal to my nose. This is where it became a bit more pleasurable, and I got a sense of perhaps sandalwood and creamy tonka. Im surprised at comments here that have described the trail as aquatic, as I definitely get a creaminess which I couldn't attribute to any aquatic I know of. I felt as though I wanted to make the opening dirtier and more rank, and the heart/base more rich and plummy... maybe blackcurrant or similar. So far it is an interesting perfume that has some evolution, but I just want to put a fire under it and watch the components simmer some more!
    Bubble bubble....

    Sample C I feel is Kevin's brief - though there was a time when I thought perhaps this shared some qualities of which I wrote about in my own brief. It is super green and has probably the most commanding opening of all 3 samples. I got a very definite vintage feel (Dioressence sprung to mind fleetingly), which I like. Then beneath there is a rather unusual note that I can only describe as mildewy (sopping wet washcloths that have been left to dry in a heap in a dark cupboard). I am guessing this is the bitter aspect referred to in the brief... but suddenly the perfume becomes really very soapy on me. It is still compelling, but if this soapiness is the leather, I think it may need tweaking. It did not evolve on me very effectively at all... Id love to see some radiant warmth (amber perhaps), and galbanum (helloooooo Vol de Nuit!). I'd like it to become more chypre in style... give me oakmoss! So far I like the structure of this, but feel it needs to be fleshed out to turn it into something glorious.
    It has presence, but it lacks soul.
    Last edited by Sorcery of Scent; 22nd October 2010 at 01:51 PM.

  21. #21
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    Default Re: SPOILER Thread - Please Don't Read Until You've Posted Your Impressions

    Love your comments, Dimi - and very similar perceptions to mine. I think we've all pegged these three correctly.

    My main points of agreement on potential variations to test in the next phase:

    (1) Up the volume a bit. I agree - I found it very "pursey", but I felt like it lost steam and became a shade too subtle.

    (2) A "dirty" version - yes. There is a heart of darkness under the light, bright, shiny stuff - we should see a version where that sticks out some more, or more oddly. Something that makes the initial impression more "Oh, my - how beautiful, how pretty, how....... WTF???!!! OMG, what is THAT? Something is WRONG.... or is it? Wait - I'm confused..." I.e., just a bit more skank, like you suggest.

    (3) The soapiness - yes. It's a soft modern white musk, I assume, and fits the brief, but once you perceive it as soap, it's soap. More leathery is an excellent suggestion. to prevent that from happening.

    I'm really impressed by (A) how close the perfumers came to the original visions on the first shot, and (B) the degree to which the BNers are seeing the same potential changes in fragrance space.
    * * * *

  22. #22

    Default Re: SPOILER Thread - Please Don't Read Until You've Posted Your Impressions

    In re: Red's post: YES.

    and 1) YES
    2) YES
    3) YES.

    (I'm very agreeable today obviously.)

    But... the interpretations are definitely headed the right direction... and I'm eagerly (yet patiently) awaiting round 2. I've left myself enough of each of A B and C to compare once those arrive.

    This is SUCH fun!
    [URL="http://www.basenotes.net/fragrancereviews/38140"][B]Actias luna's fragrance reviews[/B][/URL] | Now blogging with [i]AromiErotici, Carrie Meredith, Mimi Gardenia, Sugandaraja, Asha, bluesoul, shamu1, Redneck Perfumisto and Daly Beauty[/i] at [URL="http://aromierotici.blogspot.com/"][B]Il Mondo di Odore[/B][/URL] [URL="http://www.ebsqart.com/Artist/Kathleen-Harper/3794/Art-Portfolio/1/"]
    [B]Art[/B]: Actias luna's other hobby[/URL] - along with some impromptu [URL="http://www.basenotes.net/threads/268480-Why-Mouchoir-de-Monsieur-Act-III-Resumed"]"performance writing"[/URL] here on Basenotes!

  23. #23

    Default Re: SPOILER Thread - Please Don't Read Until You've Posted Your Impressions

    Estee Lauder Azuree vs CPL "C", 1st round

    Beginning development:
    I prefer Azuree to start. The top notes are brighter and warmer than C, with what I perceive to be beeswax and a golden, nectar-like citrus. Both Azuree and C have a kind of mustiness that seems a bit like dirty laundry that has sat too long in a pile on the floor. I presume this is oakmoss or something similar, so I would not want to reduce this note given that it plays an important role in the development. However, I feel that Azuree masks the mustiness a bit better than C. C, in general, seems greener and drier, more leathery to start, and I do like that.

    Middle development:
    Azuree becomes a bit more spicy and aldehydic and C moves into its dry leather stage. NOW I do get somewhat of a beeswax scent from C, although the fragrance still seems quite musty. The aldehydes in Azuree are adorable, but I am starting to wish for more oakmoss. C starts to become more likeable to me in this stage because it retains the leather illusion more strongly than Azuree. Not much more time elapses, and then the two fragrances flip-flop in terms of enjoyability for me. Then we have what I have been waiting for in C....

    Late development:
    Ahhhhh, C has turned into the most delicious, dry green, powdery leather with smoky green vetiver and what I believe to be a patchouli to die for. And it stays in this delicious stage for a long, long time. Azuree is still very beautiful, although it gives me a headache (which is why I don't own it). Azuree in the drydown is spicy, waxy, aldehydic, a bit smoky-green (vetiver) and powdery-dry (oakmoss). Really, at this stage, Azuree and C have diverged significantly in style. Although I find Azuree to be more well rounded over the entire development, its side-effects are a non-starter for me. Plus, I love the dry green leather of C and it lasts much longer.

    It is a challenge to recommend something for C, given that it recalls some truly wonderful fragrances. I suppose I would just say...do something with the top notes to brighten the composition and as a counterpoint to the oakmoss. Maybe push it more to green with some more vetiver and galbanum? I would also beef up the mid notes a bit to make the fragrance a bit more "symphonic" (right now it seems minimalist), maybe with some iris (or more if Iris is already in it) and some jasmine. Then maybe we'll get Bandit, who knows!

    In general...I have enjoyed C very much, and I am thrilled to have a sample, even in its unfinished stage!

  24. #24

    Default Re: SPOILER Thread - Please Don't Read Until You've Posted Your Impressions

    CPL "A", 1st round

    This is the one fragrance that, based on the briefs, I wanted to love the most. In this first round, I am having some very mixed feelings after wearing the fragrance several times over the past couple of weeks.

    I absolutely love the start, and it is what I envisioned "Her Purse" to be--rooty iris that borders on a bready/yeasty smell, soft tonka, and a clean, buttery leather/suede. There is a makeup-bag quality to CPL A which I also love, and is somewhat akin to Dior Homme. In fact, as I expected with the Her Purse brief, CPL A seems like a feminine version of Dior Homme. However, when CPL A moves past the top and mid notes, there is some other similarity to Dior Homme which I find much less desireable...that is to say, there is a huge dosage of Iso E Super. In fact, CPL A gives me a really bad headache. In Dior Homme, the Iso E is tolerable because there is a lot going on to somewhat mask it. In CPL A, the mid-to-base notes turn into a one-note tune of Iso E, plus some really sickening white soap and spice concoction that smells like the artificial cinnamon scent from the Janitor's floor wax. It is unfortunate that my perceptions of CPL A at this stage are so negative...it really is a scrubber at this point, and it lasts for HOURS. I fought the urge to wash off the fragrance, and thankfully was rewarded in the deep drydown which is a beautiful spicy but clean amber and some white musk. However, it does remind me of some 90s spicy orientals such as Armani Mania, and ultimately I am not sure how I feel about this fragrance bearing such similarity to a main-stream brand. As a bonus, I can start to detect the iris and tonka again after it seemed to disappear during the Iso E and floor wax phase. Longevity is practically nuclear--CPL A lasts on paper for DAYS and on skin, all day and through a shower the next day.

    I am unsure what kind of recommendations to make for improvement. The majority of the fragrance development is so unpleasant for me that this fragrance is a complete non-starter. I suppose if I could compress the development and bring the amber and musk out sooner, that would be better. Also reduce the Iso E and opt for some other woody notes. Remove the fake cinnamon and use some spiced florals such as carnation or rose.

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