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  1. #1

    Default Amouage Memoir Man: Initial Impressions

    I apologize in advance for this kind of rambling post. I've not slept much lately and have woken up early today (4:30am!) after only a few hours of sleep. Unable to get back to sleep, I thought I'd write about my impressions of Memoir Man which I tested while Basenotes was down. I'll be adding more to the thread as I wear it again and clarify my impressions and understanding of this scent.




    Amouage Memoir Man
    Category: Leather / Woody Fougere
    Top Notes: Absinth, Wormwood, Basil, Mint
    Heart Notes: Rose, Frankincense, Lavender Absolute
    Base Notes: Sandalwood, Vetiver, Guaiac wood, Amber, Vanilla, Musk, Oakmoss, Leather, Tobacco


    This scent is really quite interesting. I definitely need to give it another few wearings before I fully understand it, but I will give some initial impressions.

    This starts out with a very realistic absinthe accord. It's rounder and deeper (and has less pine/fir) than the accord in Fou d'Absinthe, and is not the brutal live wormwood plant accord in the opening of Yatagan. Here you get a hint of wormwood oil (which is aromatic, green, almost minty like spearmint but darker and smoother and more full bodied), a very round anise note that persists through most of the fragrance, and a mint note that smells more like mint leaf than mint toothpaste or mint gum. The mint is a minor player though, so do not fear. I couldn't detect the basil as a standalone note but have a feeling that it is acting in such a way to flesh out the accord which could otherwise be too aromatic and thin. Well, this is anything but thin.

    The opening of this scent is dark, mysterious, and hard to pin down as the notes dance and swirl like the opalescence in a fresh absinthe louche. It is unmistakably green but is not rendered with hues of green normally seen in perfumery. We get an almost washed out green with hints of olive and black tones.. something like this


    The anise element of the absinthe accord is present from early on in the fragrance well into the drydown and imparts a round darkness to the scent that hums quietly in the background - never silent but never obtrusive. Quickly the anise accord is joined by a dark woody accord.. cedar rounded out with lavender absolute. Lavender absolute smells quite a bit different than lavender oil - it is sweet and round and coumarinic and yet dark and has some fruity/berry elements. In Memoir man it never jumps to the fore but acts to deepen the absinthe accord and perhaps more importantly round off the woody notes.

    The drydown features a prominent cedar/guaiac accord that is subtly smoky. The oakmoss is detectable via the leathery and slightly salty notes it provides.

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    This scent is unquestionably dark and woody. Unquestionably darker and more brooding than Epic, and also more woody where Epic was more spice oriented. This is just as resolutely masculine as Epic Man, but far less oriental in nature. Memoir Man has an undeniable European feel, not so much as in the European tradition of perfumery, but instead a post-industrialized Europe that is just moving into the Romantic Era. The opening is downright melancholic. The dry down is beautiful but there is always a sense of bleakness present throughout - a black thread woven throughout the fragrance. And yet the scent is so very strong, not only in projection and sillage (both of which are as notable as in Epic Man!), but there is a sort of.. assuredness present that stands resolute against the melancholy and prevents the scent from ever becoming depressing.

    The green elements of the opening last for the first hour or maybe two and this is where the scent is most enjoyable, to me. The drydown does become progressively "more similar" to Gucci PH (the original), with a fairly strong pencil shaving cedar accord tempered here by the lavender absolute, rose and vanilla (and I think I smell a bit of jasmine?) but as mentioned, this scent always retains a darkness that the Gucci never has. In Memoir, the accord is also fuller and weightier. Gucci PH is more like an idealized autumn day, while Memoir Man is that same day plunged into darkness as a storm rolls in.

    Fans of Gucci PH, Fou d'Absinthe, Yatagan, Epic Man, and anyone who enjoys dark scents or very woody scents should definitely check out Memoir Man. I'm not 100% sold on the dry down yet - I wish it had more jasmine or something to smooth it out a bit more and make it even darker (the darkness abates considerably from the opening after the first few hours of wear). If it had those tweaks (which are just personal preferences, mind you) this would easily be one of my favorite scents of all time. I'm going to try layering it with Memoir Woman as that has a much more noticeable (almost grape-like) jasmine accord (it calls to mind a niche take of Dior's Poison, from my cursory sniffing). The Memoir duo seem to have been designed, not only conceptually but olfactorily, too, to be layered, and I think the unification of these two 'disparate souls who see themselves reflected in each other' could be a very beautiful reunion, indeed.

    One more interesting thing: my girlfriend loved this on me. She didn't know what it was and I had told her nothing about the ad copy but she said that it smelled dark, mysterious, and even "scandalous" on me, and said something to the effect of "It smells like.. well, if you could capture the smell of doing something you shouldn't be doing. Like the essence of one of those bad-boy men who women want despite themselves, and yet it simultaneously has this refined elegance and doesn't seem forced or contrived in any way."

    An interesting take given what is mentioned in the ad-copy. That just confirmed that the scent really DID smell that way and it wasn't simply (a fear I always have) that the ad copy and expectations were altering my actual perception of the scent.
    Last edited by SculptureOfSoul; 25th September 2010 at 05:46 PM.
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  2. #2

    Default Re: Amouage Memoir Man: Initial Impressions

    Thanks for your great review. Reading this makes me want to have Memoir more

  3. #3

    Default Re: Amouage Memoir Man: Initial Impressions

    Count me in as very interested. I normally shy away from absinthe dominated accords, as I feel they have been done to death.
    Very descriptive and captivating writing, SoS. You didn't mention who the nose is, any idea?

  4. #4

    Default Re: Amouage Memoir Man: Initial Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin Guyer View Post
    You didn't mention who the nose is, any idea?
    According to mimifroufrou.com it's Karine Vinchon.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Amouage Memoir Man: Initial Impressions

    Sorry for excluding the notes list and the nose. The nose is Karine Vinchon Spehner who recently did Opus III for Amouage, too, along with L'Artisan's new vetiver and their L'eau de Jatamansi.

    Here's the note info:
    Top Notes: Absinth, Wormwood, Basil, Mint
    Heart Notes: Rose, Frankincense, Lavender Absolute
    Base Notes: Sandalwood, Vetiver, Guaiac wood, Amber, Vanilla, Musk, Oakmoss, Leather, Tobacco

    I've now edited the original post to include this info. Thanks for the heads up Kevin!

    I'll be wearing it again later tonight and probably a time or two in this coming week. I hope to be able to find more of the notes (I didn't really detect rose at all, but jasmine instead, for instance) and better understand the woody/vetiver/moss accord in the drydown and just how it evolves. There were a few nuances I forgot to mention originally too - like a hint of a peanut butter note amidst the wood, which appeared only briefly at about the 6 hour mark in the drydown and seemed to surface only after a significant increase in body temperature as I was running to and fro. That sounds weird but it was actually really quite pleasant as it didn't last long and was only a background note of the wood accord.
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  6. #6
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    Default Re: Amouage Memoir Man: Initial Impressions

    Your insomnia is our blessing. Thanks for this write-up. I wasn't particularly interested in this before, but now I'll definitely check it out.

  7. #7

    Default Re: Amouage Memoir Man: Initial Impressions

    dig your analysis, method, and writing style. not sure this is for me, but-- you make me curious enough to try it.
    too bad the realm of contemporary music oftentimes doesn't get the kind of treatment which you give to fragrance.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Amouage Memoir Man: Initial Impressions

    Great to hear your take on Memoir, Sculpture.

    Your description of what to me was a 'green haze' in the opening is dead on with my impression, and I'm happy to announce that today I picked up that elusive 'Tribute note' again, which I'm sure is a common facet Amouage have used in both - I don't know if it's a vetiver or tobacco note but it's there . . . just not every time on cue.

    I don't think of this one as woody at all - maybe that's just the way I read woods in general - but I'm wondering if you were at all struck by the frankincense side of things. On virtually every wearing I have seen this as evolving into a slightly 'ashy' incense, albeit with a bunch of herbal damp tobacco leaf close by or suspended above smouldering frankincense embers, so to speak. It definitely has a brooding quality.

    Is this something you pick up on at all? It seems to be largely about a muted, dark incense to me in the mid to latter stages, altho that herbal / absinthe / tobacco mix sticks around.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Amouage Memoir Man: Initial Impressions

    Would you SoS and Mr. R. compare Memoir and Tribute, please?

  10. #10

    Default Re: Amouage Memoir Man: Initial Impressions

    I’m intrigued by the very fleeting resemblance to Tribute that surfaces occasionally in the first hour or so of Memoir Man. I have only noticed it on three or four wearings (out of 20+), which makes it all the more challenging for me to pin down - I am not imagining this

    Tribute Attar ~ notes of rose, jasmine, saffron, frankincense, cedar, tobacco, leather, patchouli and vetiver.

    Memoir Man ~ a leather woody fougere with notes of absinthe, wormwood, basil, mint, rose, frankincense, lavender, sandalwood, vetiver, guaiac wood, amber, vanilla, musk, oakmoss, leather and tobacco.


    On paper the common notes are frankincense, vetiver, leather (?) and tobacco so I’m assuming this is where the elusive common note or accord lies and apart from that the two go their own different ways. It's just one facet that pops up in amongst the absinthe 'green-ness' and smoky frankincense from time to time.

    I wore Guerlain Derby today and found quite a strong similarity to this particular accord that is very apparent in Tribute, and that I'm glimpsing in Memoir.

    Guerlain Derby:
    Top Notes - Bergamot, Lemon, Artemisia, Peppermint .
    Middle Notes - Pimento, Rose, Pepper, Mace, Jasmin .
    Base Notes - Leather, Vetiver, Sandal, Patchouli, Moss


    Anyone picked up any slight resemblance between Tribute & Derby? I'm guessing the bright top and the leather / vetiver again.

    My own more general first impressions of MM and some other info are in the original thread from last month here if you missed it:

    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/259...d-Memoir-Woman

    I've gotta say that despite several mentions I find the Memoir / Gucci PH comparison something of a stretch – I perceive them as quite different in personality altho I guess the woody incensey thing makes for some common ground.
    Last edited by mr. reasonable; 26th September 2010 at 02:38 PM.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Amouage Memoir Man: Initial Impressions

    +1..... very interested in this one, as i absolutely adore Tribute

  12. #12

    Default Re: Amouage Memoir Man: Initial Impressions

    Mr. R., thanks for yours. In terms of perceived "naturalness," how does Memoir fare?

    Note: I've tried a number of Amouage EdP and liked, as in really liked, none. On the other hand, I adore Homage.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Amouage Memoir Man: Initial Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by Addict View Post
    Would you SoS and Mr. R. compare Memoir and Tribute, please?
    I'd love to..

    ..if someone would kindly send me a sample of it!

    For some reason, Tribute is one of the few Amouage scents I've yet to smell, despite the fact that based on the reviews and notes, I should love it.
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  14. #14

    Default Re: Amouage Memoir Man: Initial Impressions

    SoS, I didn't try Tribute either... I have to order at least a sample these days...

    By the way, I admire the extremely articulate and evocative way you write about fragrances... even when my reactions are quite different.

    I must be a more Dullah kind of guy... pardon the pun.

  15. #15

    Default Re: Amouage Memoir Man: Initial Impressions

    I did a bit of a comparison between Gucci PH and Memoir today. It had been so long since I wore Gucci PH that I had forgotten about the prominent bay leaf up top (which, as a bay lover, I really enjoy!). I think that green element at the top of Gucci, along with the underlying woodiness, is what would lead people - especially after only a cursory sniff on paper - to think the two scents are very similar. Even so, I maintain that the green elements in Memoir are more present, less dry (the bay in Gucci is rather dry), and darker, due to the anise that lurks in the background.

    The oakmoss, incense, woods, and a fairly prominent vetiver note make the base of Memoir once again darker, and far more substantial. The Gucci, on the other hand, on my skin at least, becomes much more amber oriented with a rather clear orris note, too. There are some similarities in texture throughout, and there are some threads of commonality between the incense/wood accords, but as Mr. Reasonable says, their respective moods are very different. Memoir is the yang to Gucci PH's yin.

    This little comparison was totally worth it (I'd suggest it to anyone who is interested in both scents). Not only did I get to really see the way two scents with some common ground can, in regards to mood, diverge quite considerably, I also finally came to see just how good Gucci PH is - a scent I had long overlooked because during an early test all I could smell was pencil shavings. I don't know what has changed but, while I still pick up something like pencil shavings, I pick up so much more in Gucci PH now.
    Last edited by SculptureOfSoul; 26th September 2010 at 09:34 PM.
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  16. #16

    Default Re: Amouage Memoir Man: Initial Impressions

    While Memoir Man does have some commonalities with Gucci PH, I think it's closest analogue may be the oft-feared Salvador Dali PH. (the one in the greenish/black bottle with the lips cap).

    They share a number of notes:

    Memoir Man
    Top Notes: Absinth (well, the anise component of it, anyhow), Wormwood, Basil, Mint
    Heart Notes: Rose, Frankincense, Lavender Absolute
    Base Notes: Sandalwood, Vetiver, Guaiac wood, Amber, Vanilla, Musk, Oakmoss, Leather, Tobacco

    Dali PH
    Top notes: lavender, clary sage, basil, anise and bergamot
    middle notes: jasmine, lily-of-the-valley and geranium
    base notes: leather, sandalwood, amber, patchouli, oakmoss, vanilla and cedar.

    Also, geranium and rose share some similarities, and to my nose, the rose + lavender absolute in Memoir Man smells a bit like jasmine, so there is more crossover there.

    Memoir Man is definitely more refined, and less ostensibly outlandish than Salvador Dali PH. They both have a dark character, with even a bit of bleakness present, although both have a number of beautiful qualities that more than balance the scent and keep it from becoming a depressing wear. Memoir definitely has less of the tar note that is so prevalent in Dali PH, although a tar-like note is present but subdued. Memoir Man also shares a bit of a dark smokiness with Dali PH.

    As mentioned in the first post, there are a lot of hues of dark green present in Memoir Man, along with the traces of black (tar and burnt woods). I definitely think that the color and bottle of Dali PH would be very suitable for Memoir Man, and so I'd say there is even crossover in the packaging and the way it presents the scent..



    I really like Dali PH but find it very difficult to wear, and the tar and smokey qualities of the leather note in it can become overwhelming. There is also a synthetic quality to it that can become irksome as the scent dries down, especially as it has such monster longevity. I find Memoir Man to be a more refined, if less daring, and definitely a higher quality take on a similar theme.
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  17. #17

    Default Re: Amouage Memoir Man: Initial Impressions

    Thanks, SoS, for posting these detailed reviews and comparisons.

    Memoir sounds quite interesting. I like the comparison with Salvador Dali Pour Homme, which I admire. I'm going to look for Memoir this weekend.

  18. #18

    Default Re: Amouage Memoir Man: Initial Impressions

    Just tried Memoir Man and actually bought Memoir Woman; interestingly, Memoir Woman is very unisex, and is in my opinion even better than Memoir Man (which is quite good). Where Memoir Man is dark and woody, Memoir Woman adds a top layer of boozy sweetness that elevates it to another level; and to my nose the familiar Amouage incense note is more prominent in Memoir Woman than in Memoir Man. In the drydown, the two are exceptionally alike, so much so that it would be easy to confuse them after a few hours (I had a spray of each on each hand); they both have that exquisite Amouage woodsy/incensy/mossy base. I would highly recommend Memoir Woman for either men or women -- it's highly addictive and is one of the best of the Amouage line, which is saying a lot.

  19. #19

    Default Re: Amouage Memoir Man: Initial Impressions

    I found pictures of both boxes now. See my signature if you're interested in this scent.


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  20. #20

    Default Re: Amouage Memoir Man: Initial Impressions

    Amouage Memoir Man, and other amouage offerings:
    http://www.basenotes.net/album.php?albumid=603

  21. #21

    Default Re: Amouage Memoir Man: Initial Impressions

    When I smelled Mamoir Man from the bottle, I liked it very much. Top notes are very good and interesting. the drydown is totally dissapointing...ordinary woody drydown, and it smell the way i dont like...

    Memoir Woman is nice. Though originality is not great. It's an expensive variation on Gaultier2

    anyway, it's Amouage... they both are quality scents....
    "PLAIN LIVING, HIGH THINKING" O.W., De Profundis
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  22. #22

    Default Re: Amouage Memoir Man: Initial Impressions

    Dreamer, didn't you get any smoke/ash in the drydown? While the drydown is fairly stark, I do think it's pretty interesting and unique.. at least on my skin. I get quite a bit of a burned incense, and ash smell, along with a hint of tar and something black and smooth (castoreum I believe, as part of the leather accord).
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  23. #23

    Default Re: Amouage Memoir Man: Initial Impressions

    My eyes were wide open when I smelled this wonderful top notes incensy accord.....but it changed very soon on the skin.

    I agree it's a complex scent, and you can smell the slow process of development of the scent on blotter, though on the skin top notes fade very quickly and it becomes dull-woody they could make more refined and original woody drydown... it's my initial impressions... I will resmell it again ...
    "PLAIN LIVING, HIGH THINKING" O.W., De Profundis
    One can not prove the beauty, but show it. You see it or you don't.

    Real beauty: 1) Frederic Malle 1-20 2) Chanel Egoiste 3) YSL Opium pour Homme edp 4) Guerlain Habit Rouge 5) TF Noir de Noir \\ Noses: 1) Jacques Cavallier 2) Maurice Roucel

  24. #24

    Default Re: Amouage Memoir Man: Initial Impressions

    It's weird because I love the scent exactly as it is, and yet sometimes I yearn for the inclusion of something in the drydown. My thoughts are a bit more lavender absolute and some jasmine, along with more castoreum to smooth it out further and make it more inky black.

    The thing is, that would make it a different scent, and I don't know that I'd prefer that scent to Memoir Man the way it is. Honestly, I want both! (alternatively, I wish the women's Memoir was butched up a bit, as that would make a great scent too, it would be somewhat like man but more floral and more extroverted and sexy, instead of introverted and brooding. I do think they did a good job of making these two scents complementary in so many ways though - they work well together even though each scent has almost the exact opposite characteristics as the other, outside of the fact that they are both dark).
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  25. #25

    Default Re: Amouage Memoir Man: Initial Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by DreamerII View Post
    My eyes were wide open when I smelled this wonderful top notes incensy accord.....but it changed very soon on the skin.

    I agree it's a complex scent, and you can smell the slow process of development of the scent on blotter, though on the skin top notes fade very quickly and it becomes dull-woody they could make more refined and original woody drydown... it's my initial impressions... I will resmell it again ...
    I have to agree with this. I finally had a chance to try this and I can say I was so disappointed. The opening is amazing. It is exactly as explained by SoS. Mint, absinthe and wonderfully green. But the dry-down is so basic and generic that it didn't warrant me purchasing it. Darn I was really expecting a lot from this too! With epic for men, it was love all the way through. From the initial spray to the dry-down, to me that was an instant classic. Epic and Silver are still my top Amouage scents! Either way this is a nice basic scent coming from a wonderful exotic company.


    PS. My sample was sample from Luckyscent and was not sprayed so I wonder if spraying it makes a difference. i will have to see.

  26. #26

    Default Re: Amouage Memoir Man: Initial Impressions

    What a great review.
    Girls seem to go crazy over Amouage, Lyric Man has the same effect.

  27. #27

    Default Re: Amouage Memoir Man: Initial Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by cairomerta View Post
    I have to agree with this. I finally had a chance to try this and I can say I was so disappointed. The opening is amazing. It is exactly as explained by SoS. Mint, absinthe and wonderfully green. But the dry-down is so basic and generic that it didn't warrant me purchasing it. Darn I was really expecting a lot from this too! With epic for men, it was love all the way through. From the initial spray to the dry-down, to me that was an instant classic. Epic and Silver are still my top Amouage scents! Either way this is a nice basic scent coming from a wonderful exotic company.


    PS. My sample was sample from Luckyscent and was not sprayed so I wonder if spraying it makes a difference. i will have to see.
    Given your tastes I suspect being able to spend some time with it and also a better method of application might be worth a shot, cairomerta. I bought this pretty early on and even after a few weeks of wearing it every other day it's still intriguing, I'm picking up new facets. I really wasn't so sure at first - verging on 'meh' despite liking the opening etc. Of course if you don't like it you don't like it but I can't imagine getting the full story from a dab sample even if you empty the whole thing on yourself?

  28. #28

    Default Re: Amouage Memoir Man: Initial Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by mr. reasonable View Post
    Given your tastes I suspect being able to spend some time with it and also a better method of application might be worth a shot, cairomerta. I bought this pretty early on and even after a few weeks of wearing it every other day it's still intriguing, I'm picking up new facets. I really wasn't so sure at first - verging on 'meh' despite liking the opening etc. Of course if you don't like it you don't like it but I can't imagine getting the full story from a dab sample even if you empty the whole thing on yourself?
    I agree with you on this. Dabbing a scent does not do it any justice. I definitely have to go and try it on with the spray applicator to really get the diffused effect of this one. Either way, I think amouage is a magnificent house and I really do hope that this works with my skin with a spray application.

  29. #29

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    Default Re: Amouage Memoir Man: Initial Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by cairomerta View Post
    I agree with you on this. Dabbing a scent does not do it any justice. I definitely have to go and try it on with the spray applicator to really get the diffused effect of this one. Either way, I think amouage is a magnificent house and I really do hope that this works with my skin with a spray application.
    Khalid, Spraying isn't going to change anything. Memoir Man is mediore at best. It's just an extention of The Library Collection in my opinion. Major disappointment for me. Amouage just does such a superb job when it comes to attars, but their EDP's just suck for the most part. Hey Mr.Chong, maybe you should see an ear,nose and throat doctor.

  30. #30

    Default Re: Amouage Memoir Man: Initial Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by thebeck View Post
    Khalid, Spraying isn't going to change anything. Memoir Man is mediore at best. It's just an extention of The Library Collection in my opinion. Major disappointment for me. Amouage just does such a superb job when it comes to attars, but their EDP's just suck for the most part. Hey Mr.Chong, maybe you should see an ear,nose and throat doctor.
    AHHAHAHAHAHAHH Thats funny...ear,nose and throat doctor!!! When I heard about the notes in memoir i was expecting something dark and heavy and smokey! I dont get that at all. The drydown is so disappointing. So generic with no oomph! Maybe like beck said, something like one of their attars.

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