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  1. #1

    Default When The Perfumer Defines The House Style

    I've been thinking lately that some house-perfumer relationships seem to define a house, so that even if the perfumer doesn't create the line entirely ( in contrast with, say, lines like Neil Morris and Maison Francis Kurkdjian ), the stamp of that perfumer's style defines the line.

    The most obvious one I can think of is the Sheldrake-Lutens collaboration, Sheldrake's fondness for sweet orientals becoming what a "typical Lutens" smell like.

    But, what other lines are like this?

    I for one would nominate the relatively recent Becker-Kilian collaboration. She's done the entire Love series ( Prelude To Love, Love, Beyond Love, and Love & Tears ), all the Arabian Nights series so far ( Pure Oud, Rose Oud ), as well as Back To Black, Liaisons Dangereuses, and A Taste Of Heaven. While the collaboration is fairly new, and there are two contributions to the line by Sidonie Lancesseur, it seems to me Calice Becker is as close to being the house perfumer as one can be without having that title, with more than three-quarters of the fragrances her work.

    Another obvious choice would be Duchaufour and Eau d'Italie. Up until the recent Au Lac by Morillas, the entire line was his work ( in fact I was a little surprised when Morillas showed up with that ).

    Your thoughts? Any nominations?

  2. #2
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    Default Re: When The Perfumer Defines The House Style

    Since his work for Eau d'Italie, Duchaufour has apparently struck up regular relationships with both L'Artisan Parfumeur and Penhaligon's, and it will be interesting to see whether he imposes any kind of stylistic consistency upon either house. Meanwhile, there's Elléna and his work for Hermès, which, whether you enjoy it or not, certainly exhibit a distinct profile. It will be interesting to see what evolves within the Chanel Les Exclusifs line, meanwhile, with Polge and Lutens at the helm, or Guerlain under Wasser.

  3. #3

    Default Re: When The Perfumer Defines The House Style

    JCE and Hermes! Great suggestion - definitely a fecund pairing.

  4. #4

    Default Re: When The Perfumer Defines The House Style

    I like the stuff JCE has done for Hermes, but, perhaps it is time to lay off the iso e super. Not that I dislike the use of it, it is just that some of the Hermes stuff is becoming kind of same-same, i.e. Terre d' Hermes = Vetiver Tonka (from the Hermessence line).

    It would be interesting if JCE went back to his earlier roots, i.e. First VC & A or Navagateur from L'Artisan....

  5. #5
    Halo's Avatar
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    Default Re: When The Perfumer Defines The House Style

    The two Antoines working for Etat libre d´Orange, Lie and Maisondieu clearly created a certain style for the house. Booth are very talented.

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