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  1. #1

    Exclamation Insider tips : Obscure fragrances

    This is a thread to which I hope many basenoters will contribute. It is to help awareness of the more obscure, harder to find fragrances out there, worth checking out.
    I have recently discovered 4 such fragrances:
    Alviero Martini - A postmodern fresh fragrance.Strong. Synthetic. Linear. Has excellent sillage and staying power.Not expensive.

    Les Copains pour Homme, ( this is a different fragrance to the one listed in basenotes - comes in a black box ).
    Again, a fresh postmodern strong synthetic linear with excellent sillage and staying power. Not expensive.

    Alix Grčs - A wonderful bitter green chypre on a base of leather ( Cabochard fond). Bitter, but not the sharp biting green of Coriandre or Vent Vert. Very wearable for a man. Beautiful stuff and not expensive.

    Kéora - Jean Couturier. A rich, thick vanilla oriental. Spicy, but with the merest hint of pink bubblegum, ( which actually works ). Fans of Shalimar will like this one. Not expensive.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Insider tips : Obscure fragrances

    Quote Originally Posted by david View Post
    This is a thread to which I hope many basenoters will contribute. It is to help awareness of the more obscure, harder to find fragrances out there, worth checking out.
    I have recently discovered 4 such fragrances:
    Alviero Martini - A postmodern fresh fragrance.Strong. Synthetic. Linear. Has excellent sillage and staying power.Not expensive.

    Les Copains pour Homme, ( this is a different fragrance to the one listed in basenotes - comes in a black box ).
    Again, a fresh postmodern strong synthetic linear with excellent sillage and staying power. Not expensive....
    Nice. I have wanted to buy this blind, but then got sidetracked. Glad you brought this one up to my attention again.

    I really do not have any obscure fragrances to suggest. Well, perhaps Paco Rabanne Tenere, although in someways the dry down with honey and (decaying ?) florals bring out a slightly "urine" like accord.
    Seeking: Bottles/decants : of Feeling Man, Gucci pour Homme, Essence of John Galliano, Nicole Miller (vintage), Opium pour Homme, Oxford & Cambridge, Concentré D'Orange Verte...etc.

    Seeking decant/sample of Jil Sander Feeling Man, Cacharel Nemo, Bijan for Men EDC, Lanvin for Men, Giorgio VIP, Il Lancetti and other old school frags ....etc. I have samples to swap.

    More HERE
    Please PM me !

  3. #3

    Default Re: Insider tips : Obscure fragrances

    Hard to tell whether Joint by Roccobarocco falls into this category, but since it's somehow of an underrated gem and hardly marketed at all most online retailers after being discontinued, so I guess this stunning frag is neither the easiest attainable nor the most common find

  4. #4

    Default Re: Insider tips : Obscure fragrances

    This is difficult...there are just soooooo many tiny niche houses competing for attention. I'm sure there are some great, unknown (even to BNers!) scents out there. You've probably named a few of them! This is the first I've heard of any of them.
    "It's not what you look like when you're doing what you're doing; it's what you're doing when you're doing what you look like you're doing."

  5. #5

    Default Re: Insider tips : Obscure fragrances

    Sorry guys, I´m bumping this thread in the hope that more people will read it and reply. I´m sure nearly every basenotes member has one or two tips he can share with us !

  6. #6
    vita odorifera
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    Default Re: Insider tips : Obscure fragrances

    Paolo Gigli Firenze

    Below is a post of an August 2010 purchase i made:

    Delved into the world of the obscure:



    Alhambra EDP- Paolo Gigli (Firenze)


    Top: Aromatic-lemon
    Middle: Agarwood and Guaiacum sanctum
    Base: Ambergris, White moss
    This is an oud scent with an eye-watering mint/eucalyptus-laden citrus opening. Sublime, IMO, with nice sillage and significant (8+ hours longevity)

    I also tested Excentrique for Men, an oriental from the same house, and will be bought in the near future.

    These frags are obviously made from quality ingredients (natural or synthetic doesnt really count with me)

    A thread on Paolo Gigli frags was started here, but it evaporated early, maybe due to the obscurity of the house.
    ointments and perfume delight the heart....

    #BBOG!

  7. #7

    Default Re: Insider tips : Obscure fragrances

    Quote Originally Posted by Surfacing View Post
    Well, perhaps Paco Rabanne Tenere, although in someways the dry down with honey and (decaying ?) florals bring out a slightly "urine" like accord.
    I bought it for the reviews lately. Not that much to rave about. A huge dollop of galbanum, then some rosy even tame air and then, gone. Some kinda Vent Vert without the chorus (Luca Turin) of rose and - missing here - jasmin. I really don't like it due to it's back then contemporary overload of galbanum. The Givenchy Insense is much better in respect of being a "male floral" whatever that means.

    As an obscure frag I would recommend Shiseido Tactics. Pepper, as recently re-discovered by Bang. It can be haved in small potions of 10ml still. In my understanding it renders a crude attempt to be a "male chypre" without the stinky French decor.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Insider tips : Obscure fragrances

    I just HAD to go their website, but fortunately I no money to buy a thing! YAY! Now I can't blame my misfortunes on perfume buying anymore. Their site is gorgeous, and of course, they make their scents sound as if God himself made them.

  9. #9
    Weimar27's Avatar
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    Default Re: Insider tips : Obscure fragrances

    Here are some obscurities
    10 Corso Como by 10 Corso Como
    Holy Champa by Antoine & Lili
    Assolo by Cale Fragranze d’Autore
    Eau Egyptienne by Cinq Mondes
    Realm Women by Erox
    Via Veneto by I Santi

  10. #10

    Default Re: Insider tips : Obscure fragrances

    David,

    Which Les Copains are you referring to? Both of these have black boxes.

    http://www.sfilate.it/photo/astuccio-edt.jpg

    http://tienda.jeperfumes.com/images/63593M.jpg

  11. #11

    Default Re: Insider tips : Obscure fragrances

    For the patchouli/amber lovers out there: Laura Tonatto's Re - Not exactly obscure, but not discussed much either, probably due to the fact that it's discontinued. It has all my favorite ingredients: sandal wood, opoponax, mastic and of course lots of patchouli.

  12. #12
    vita odorifera
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    Default Re: Insider tips : Obscure fragrances

    Monsieur Charrier EDT by Charrier Parfums France




    Talk of obscure. Came across this really old leather chypre (i guess) in a hotel in Kuala Lumpur. Nothing came up on Google

    A real powerhouse of the old order!

    Can anybody please come up with more info on this?
    ointments and perfume delight the heart....

    #BBOG!

  13. #13
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    Default Re: Insider tips : Obscure fragrances

    Jacques d'Auvillers
    Cuirasse
    ------------------
    Notes: Bergamot, Leather, White Floral, Amber, Oakmoss
    ------------------
    A somewhat ambery leather chypre, about which very little information is available. From my nose and what little I could find, I would guess some of the elements in the juice are bergamot, a white floral, amber, a leather note, and oakmoss. I have it in EdT form, and it is quite nice, with a moderate sillage. It has a fresher aspect than many leather chypres. Perhaps this is something about the citrus and white floral working together. I have no idea about the perfumer, the date of introduction, or its current availability. I found it in a tiny shop here in San Francisco. I think it's a small gem!
    Yr good bud,

    JaimeB

    "Why spend life seeking that which does not satisfy? Why remain a slave, when freedom waits? Let your life shine; illumine the world with your truth!"

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  14. #14

    Default Re: Insider tips : Obscure fragrances

    10 corso como is not THAT obscure....

  15. #15

    Default Re: Insider tips : Obscure fragrances

    I have one on the way that I can't find much info on:
    Casaque Homme by Casaque

    I am intrigued, to say the least.
    "You just keep me hangin' on." -- Farewell, Lou.

  16. #16

    Default Re: Insider tips : Obscure fragrances

    Quote Originally Posted by JaimeB View Post
    Jacques d'Auvillers
    Cuirasse
    ------------------
    Notes: Bergamot, Leather, White Floral, Amber, Oakmoss
    ------------------
    A somewhat ambery leather chypre, about which very little information is available. From my nose and what little I could find, I would guess some of the elements in the juice are bergamot, a white floral, amber, a leather note, and oakmoss. I have it in EdT form, and it is quite nice, with a moderate sillage. It has a fresher aspect than many leather chypres. Perhaps this is something about the citrus and white floral working together. I have no idea about the perfumer, the date of introduction, or its current availability. I found it in a tiny shop here in San Francisco. I think it's a small gem!
    Jaime, this is a fabulous name for a scent! (I recall Guerlain called Derby its "cuirass of masculinity." I thought of a certain man of fashion and his corset! LOL!)

    For rare, I would venture to recommend Shiseido Murasaki. This is a wondeful, green chypre/floral suitable for both sexes (although it is marketed to women) with these notes:

    Top: gardenia, galbanum, peach, hiacynth and bergamot; mid notes are lily, orris root, jasmine, lily-of-the-valley and rose; base notes are leather, sandalwood, amber, musk, oakmoss and vetiver.
    "No sweet perfume ever tortured me more than this." Desert Rose by Sting and Cheb Mami, Album 1999.

  17. #17

    Default Re: Insider tips : Obscure fragrances

    Quote Originally Posted by 6of1 View Post
    I have one on the way that I can't find much info on:
    Casaque Homme by Casaque

    I am intrigued, to say the least.
    Turns out to be a nice semi-aromatic oriental that smells much better than the $20 price tag would have me believe. If you like orientals, then this would not be an unworthy addition to your collexion. Bottle is nice as well.
    "You just keep me hangin' on." -- Farewell, Lou.

  18. #18
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    Default Re: Insider tips : Obscure fragrances

    "Juliet" by Juliet Stewart is a balsamic and gentle perfume.

    It reminds me of the coast of Italy. A soft summer breeze brings mediterranean herbs to the vacationer's nose. After she first made the perfume for herself, and was constantly asked, "what is it you're wearing" she had it made for the public.

    http://www.julietperfume.com/




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    I have BUMPED this topic. Instead of it remaining in the Men's Fragrance Discussion, could it possibly be moved to the General Fragrance Discussion section?
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  19. #19
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    Default Re: Insider tips : Obscure fragrances

    There is whole bunch of them down here, more than one can try, frankly, They range from cheap ones to good-values-for money to niche...

    Cheap, massive: Cannon. They used to have original scents that are true to what was in fashion ages ago: Crandal is Pinaud's, Colbert Noire a herb / patch bomb a la 1970' that is too difficult to wear, Colbert has a Paco Rabanne air, albeit original. Nowadays they are into copies: Kevin Absolute is a 1 Million clone, Alliance is an improved XS clone and Alliance Epicee a Terre D'Hermes for the poor man.

    Cheap, good knock offs: Senigalia. Their version of Kenzo Power ends up being an updated version of Canoé. Pretty interesting and compliment getter even for niche experts (how I enjoyed that!).

    Cheap, classics: McTaylor. Their original one is marvelous. Their acquatic is also a very decent one.

    Cheap, good knock offs, some of them end failing to reach what they aim at, albeit smelling quite good: Wells Tabac line. Their version of Zino has a lutesque character and their Givenchy Gentleman smells like H.O.T. Always but it is no so complex nor long lasting.

    Not so inexpensive, niche: Universo Garden Angels. They have this aromatherapy line that is made with organic materials that don't last much if stocked. They also have an aromatherapy line with unwereable scents: their patch herbal offering is very strong and darn diffcult to wear. They launched a chocolate spices scent that is nice but also difficult to pull of. They have a scent made of vitis vinifera that is an excellent feminine, albeit sold as a men's scent. One must wear it in a short period of time for it easily wears off.

    Cheap, designer: Ona Saez. Fiel is a bolder version of Mr. Blass. Mito is a fruity one that I like - I dislike fruity ones.

    A tad more expensive, designer: La Martina. Tierra del Fuego seems to be a good copy of Aventus. Did not try it. Cuero ("leather" in Spanish) has no leather in it. I find it too close to Zino.

    A tad more expensive. Designer: Cardón. All of them are done with local materials. Ciprés (Cypres) is a darn interesting scent.

    Niche, not so expensive: Perfvmvuvm Bue (yes, I know... there is an Italian House with almost the same name). Milonga is a citrusy Terre, easier to wear, very long lasting and complex. Their Vetiver was such a mess they discontinued it.

    Niche, expensive and not worth it: Roses are Roses, a Joe Malon rip off. Basil and Citron and Bitter Oranges are good, both EdC and really expensive. The exception are the ones for men: Pepper and Woods is their best.

    Niche, very expensive and lutesque - inspired: Fueguia 1833. Some of them are gorgious, a tad suffocating and oppresive. My favs:Thays, Cándido López, Caoba, Beagle, El Otro Tigre and Otro Poema de los Dones.

    Mass market, direct sales: Tsu. Another one that has many offerings along classical lines - Banzan, Tiziano, Sauge and Caza Mayor. Inexpensive, simple, short lived. Sauge is, IMHO, an improved version of Pino Silvestre. Caza Mayor is a musk a la B´Men, Tiziano and Banzan are difficult to describe. The rest are simply hideus.

    Idem, sold in supermarets: Paulvic. HC is a Escada pour Homme version. It has been sadly discontinued.

    Iciar, same. Miss Montana Red? They still sell its knock off. it smells quite the same. Their version of Paco Rabanne is similar to the vintage than its reformulated version. They tried to knock off Kouros... horrible concoction.

    Designers: all of them offer a line. The local Brooks Brotther, James Smart, have scents being sold since the late 1890's. Amber, Lavender and Lahore have been in their list since the 1890's. A local shirt maker, Gautto, had a cologne that is a better quality version of Drakkar Noir.

    Vintage: Cuero Rosseto, Tabaco Devon, Lavanda Oro, the local Lubins, as welll as designer scents blended locally, some of them excellent (Guerlains), others a mess (Monseur Rochas).

    The best of it all: they are all quite affordable. Even Fueguias 1833.
    Last edited by Pollux; 7th November 2013 at 04:58 AM.

  20. #20

    Default Re: Insider tips : Obscure fragrances

    My obscure fragrance has to be Pashana aftershave. However this is more of an edt strength it will linger all day.
    The notes are patchouli, sandalwood, cedar and rosemary. It has a powdery, old school barbeshop vibe.
    Nothing I can think of has a more macho feel than Pashana.

  21. #21

    Default Re: Insider tips : Obscure fragrances

    Jean-Louis Scherrer by Jean-Louis Scherrer

    Floral aldehyde fragrance for women. Jean-Louis Scherrer was launched in 1979. Top notes are aldehydes, green notes, violet, cassia and hiacynth; middle notes are carnation, tuberose, gardenia, orris root, jasmine and rose; base notes are sandalwood, amber, musk, civet, oakmoss, vanilla, vetiver and cedar


    for swap/sale:





  22. #22

    Default Re: Insider tips : Obscure fragrances

    VO-Version Originale by Jean-Marc Sinan
    John aka Easykiller

  23. #23
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    Default Re: Insider tips : Obscure fragrances

    Signature by Jean Jacques Vivier
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