Code of Conduct
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2
Results 61 to 77 of 77
  1. #61
    rogalal's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Berkeley, California
    Posts
    3,373
    Blog Entries
    33

    Default Re: SAMPLES OF THE DAY - October 2010

    Interesting - I know absolutely nothing about how smells are actually extracted from things. I still think like a child who believes that if you crush enough flower petals, you'll eventually get some sort of oil to come out. In a way, I figure it all basically works like olive oil, where you get oil if you mash something. I know that Creed claims to use a unique kind of extraction technique in their classic scents, but I've never really understood it - something about processing certain ingredients together instead of mixing them later?
    Has everyone checked out my Top 100 Blog??

  2. #62
    rogalal's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Berkeley, California
    Posts
    3,373
    Blog Entries
    33

    Default Re: SAMPLES OF THE DAY - October 2010

    OK, so I read the rather lame Wikipedia entry on attars. Apparently, by definition, they use sandalwood oil as a base, or a carrier oil. Which confuses me even more. If something is just a potent blend of full-strength essential oils, why does it need to be cut or extended? Or is there something about the actual extraction of essential oils that requires some sort of other oil as part of the distillation process?

    Anyway, today I'm wearing the other available-in-America attar from Amouage, Homage.



    This certainly has a lot less going on than Tribute. On the top, it's a mix of citrus and rose, with something spicy playing in the background - maybe clove or carnation, or maybe even just a tiny ammount of black pepper. Pretty quickly, the citrus burned off, leaving a resinous fruity note that I'm pretty sure was coriander.

    That accounted for much of its life - spicy fruity coriander and rose. By the afternoon, is had faded to mostly a rose geranium smell.

    One of the people here commented that Homage was dumbed down for the American market. Maybe so, but I definitely enjoyed Homage more than Tribute (I've never claimed not to be dumb...). It wears like a Yosh (who also does natural essential oil perfumes that tend to be more simple and put the spotlight on specific good ingredients), in that it seemed specifically designed to show off the Taif Rose in a way that wouldn't be possible in a dense mixture with a bunch of oud and labdanum and stuff.

    All in all, it was wearable and quite nice, but, to paraphrase knit_at_night, for that price it needs to make my eyes roll back in my head when I smell it. And I didn't have that with Homage. I think it was the coriander. It's a note I enjoy, but I think I might have been happier with a more purist rose. If it's the top quality rose essence available, I think I'd personally rather smell it almost alone. That being said, I think a tiny sample of Homage would be a good way to dip your toes into the attar pool without diving in at the deep end. I know I'll certainly end up using up my sample, coriander or not...
    Has everyone checked out my Top 100 Blog??

  3. #63

    Default Re: SAMPLES OF THE DAY - October 2010

    Quote Originally Posted by rogalal View Post
    I still think like a child who believes...
    Rogalal, you crack me up. But this is the best way to be!

  4. #64
    rogalal's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Berkeley, California
    Posts
    3,373
    Blog Entries
    33

    Default Re: SAMPLES OF THE DAY - October 2010

    Quote Originally Posted by cello View Post
    Rogalal, you crack me up. But this is the best way to be!
    Thanks... I'm pretty sure most of us, as children, tried mashing up flower petals in water to make "perfume". But, to be fair, perfume manufacturers encourage the mash-enough-flowers thinking by their insistence that it takes an acre of flowers to make a tiny bottle of something. Forget promises of seduction, I think the huge field of flowers in every bottle is probably the most over-used cliché in the perfume business...

    Anyway, I generally try to sample a bunch of things by one house all together. It's fun that way, but I've managed to amass a little collection of weird individual samples, especially bizarre unknown scents that I never get around to sampling. So, I think it's time to go on a little binge of weird little rarities. With that in mind, today I've been wearing Mistero by Calé.



    Calé is apparently a perfume store in Italy that carries a bunch of traditional niche lines as well as a line of their own scents. Mistero is their masculine offering. It typical Italian style, their scents are based on flowery historical stories and pieces of art, with the exception of Mistero, which is based on the rather abstract theme of the kind of man a man wants to be (If you read their blurb, they're clearly trying for something highly conceptual, but I think it may be losing some of its drama in translation...). Well, apparently, a man wants to be an oak tree.

    Mistero manages to boast one of the most confounding note lists I've seen in quite some time, encompassing mint, rhubarb, basmati rice , pimento, oakwood, oud, and many, many other notes that make no sense together. All that being said, I mostly just smelled the oak all day. It was a dry, dusty wood smell with a hint of sour green in the background. By the afternoon, it had revealed a more fruity facet, which reminded me specifically of red Froot Loops cereal. I'm assuming it was the rhubarb mixing with the rice, but it definitely had that dry cereal smell, mixed with a sort of artificial red fruit (froot? ) flavor. But, in a way that's impossible to describe, it still smelled like oak. Somehow, the dry cereal smell was just a facet of the larger dry, dusty oak smell. Towards the end of its lifespan, Mistero also took on a rosewood component. Not the rosewood that smells like antique paper, but the rosewood that smells like freshly-cut teak.

    I'm a sucker for wood scents, but the dry dusty quality of Mistero never quite won me over. For comparison's sake, Timbuktu makes me feel the same way - I should like it, but its dryness just doesn't speak to me. Though it technically did progress over the course of the day, Mistero felt a little bit like a one-trick pony. But if you're looking for something unabashedly oaky, or you're just sick of textbook cedar-based niche wood scents and want something with a different focus, it may be perfect. But if you're looking for the wild ride promised by the flowery prose and the crazy note list, don't get your hopes up too high...
    Has everyone checked out my Top 100 Blog??

  5. #65

    Default Re: SAMPLES OF THE DAY - October 2010

    Today's sample was Moulin Rouge by Histoires de Parfums. What a fun day at the office, because this one kept me sniffing and guessing, a scent journey!

    It opened with what I thought was a lipstick phase, but fruity. I could not identify the fruit until I gave in and looked up the notes. Plum! Well, now I know what plum smells like - plum over iris is the impression I got. Slowly this faded into a soft cinnamon over iris, but not the spice - rather thick, syrupy candy cinnamon. The lipstick was kissed by someone sucking on a cinnamon candy Stronger, then fading. Now iris blooms in full force into a pure lipstick, doughy iris note. Our Moulin Rouge can can girl has reapplied, but left off the fruit gloss.

    Absinthe - I love this note, but it sat a little strange on top of the lipstick iris. Subtle, but slowly gaining. Can can girl kissed by her absinthe sipping lover after her show, and she took some nips too, because you can definitely smell this. Odd, but nice.

    Then slowly, they move off into the night to do whatever can can girls do after a really fun show No cumin here, so get your minds out of the gutter. Just a slow fade away into the night.

    I loved the smells of this, all the notes emerging and fading. But I am not sure I want my perfume be this. It is true to it's aim, hits the right marks, keeps you guessing and surprises you. A wonderful scent, maybe just not a perfume for me. Well done and never boring. Maybe I'm just not a can can girl. This seemed to me to be an iris fragrance with some of the most interesting notes playing off the cool, light iris. Fun! Give it a try!

  6. #66
    Basenotes Plus
    knit at nite's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    CA, Central Coast
    Posts
    4,775

    Default Re: SAMPLES OF THE DAY - October 2010

    My sample today was the d/c'd but oft mentioned Venise by Yves Rocher, original formulation. I can see how the loss of this smooth and oriental would dismay fans of the genre. It is a spicy gem with all the smoothness and richness which alludes to rich, lush burgundy velvet or spiced wine integrated into the scent, with no bombastic loudness in the sillage. The thumb is up.
    A Scent Rescuer
    Every great perfume deserves a good home

  7. #67
    Basenotes Junkie CX827's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hong Kong
    Posts
    791

    Default Re: SAMPLES OF THE DAY - October 2010

    Quote Originally Posted by cello View Post
    Today's sample was Moulin Rouge by Histoires de Parfums. What a fun day at the office, because this one kept me sniffing and guessing, a scent journey!
    Thanks for the review, actually i was looking for a fragrance that with the scent of Absinthe.
    Memoir by Amouage is nice but not something that ive been looking for..
    Looking forward to sample this one, sounds like an excellent one without being stiff
    Last edited by CX827; 29th October 2010 at 09:59 AM.

  8. #68

    Default Re: SAMPLES OF THE DAY - October 2010

    cello - terrific review! An actual cancan girl, huh?! Good thing they left out the cumin! Moulin Rouge sounds really flirty and fun, and luscious! I've been expecting it to smell a bit like the lovechild of Lipstick Rose and YR's Rose Absolue, but you're not describing any rose. And iris and cinnamon makes me think of Iris Ganache as well as Oro....so I guess any way you describe it is going to sound appealing to me. Thanks for sharing your impressions - I'm really excited to sniff it now!
    Science is not only compatible with spirituality, it is a profound source of spirituality. When we recognize our place in an immensity of light-years and in the passage of ages, when we grasp the intricacy, beauty, and subtlety of life, then that soaring feeling, that sense of elation and humility combined, is surely spiritual. ..Carl Sagan

  9. #69

    Default Re: SAMPLES OF THE DAY - October 2010



    A very interesting perfume! Smells like incense (??). Definitely unisex IMO. It will be my next purchase. Although I'm a Chanel maniac I got to have this. It will be nice to have it next to my Opium pour Homme.

  10. #70

    Default Re: SAMPLES OF THE DAY - October 2010

    Quote Originally Posted by Evangeline View Post
    cello - terrific review! An actual cancan girl, huh?! Good thing they left out the cumin! Moulin Rouge sounds really flirty and fun, and luscious! I've been expecting it to smell a bit like the lovechild of Lipstick Rose and YR's Rose Absolue, but you're not describing any rose. And iris and cinnamon makes me think of Iris Ganache as well as Oro....so I guess any way you describe it is going to sound appealing to me. Thanks for sharing your impressions - I'm really excited to sniff it now!
    E, the rose is part of the lipstick phase. It did not come across to me a pure rose, just blended in to form the cool, textured makeup smell. But rose it a bit tough for me, so I might not have recognized that very well.

  11. #71
    rogalal's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Berkeley, California
    Posts
    3,373
    Blog Entries
    33

    Default Re: SAMPLES OF THE DAY - October 2010

    Moulin Rouge sounds interesting, except I've found that I'm never really happy in that red hot cinnamon candy smell. But everything else sounds intriguing. Absinthe iris?? And how weird is the transition from the cinnamon candy to the absinthe?? Histoires de Parfums seems to be shaping up into one of those houses that are consistently good and interesting, but where I don't really like most of their scents (I feel the same way about ELDO and Malle...).

    Anyway, for the last couple of days, I’ve been getting to know another obscurity, Narziβ by Dorissimo.



    When a very nice BNer gave me a surprise sample of this, I scoured the internet, thinking it was some sort of rare Dior flanker. Doh! It turns out that Dorissima is a line of holistic German spa products from a lady who used to do PR for Versace. It’s textbook niche, in the sense that it’s a bit weird and might not appeal to most people, but it’s definitely interesting.

    It kicked off with bright green sour apple, straight out of the candy shop, made slightly funky and spicy by a pinch of cumin. The apple quickly morphed into a fruity coriander note, which still had that slight weirdness from the cumin. It slowly faded into a cumin-laced wood scent. It was kind of dry and dusty, but with a sour green tinge to it that reminded me of absinthe, so I’m guessing it’s wormwood (the wood absinthe is made from). By the base, a subtle vetiver had come in, which was there more to keep the woody scent a bit green than to really smell like vetiver.

    I know this sounds kind of simple, but the cumin was that kind that smells like food as opposed to the sweaty kind more commonly used in perfumes, and the interplay of that and the slightly sour boozy green wormwood and the apple candy was weird. Not unpleasant, but still weird.

    I could imagine falling in love with Narziβ if I sniffed it in a tiny perfume shop in Paris or something, but as just another scent in a long string of samples, it’s keeping me entertained, but I’m just not a cumin fan. Despite the woody absinthe elements, it doesn’t have that stereotypical niche appeal (you know, the woody incense kind of stuff that us niche snobs seem to repeatedly go ape for) thanks to the apple candy smell. But it’s just a little bit too weird to appeal to the want-to-smell-like-candy crowd. And I guess that’s what makes it a textbook example of a niche fragrance, in the literal sense… Somewhere out there, someone loves this.
    Has everyone checked out my Top 100 Blog??

  12. #72

    Default Re: SAMPLES OF THE DAY - October 2010

    Quote Originally Posted by rogalal View Post
    Interesting - I know absolutely nothing about how smells are actually extracted from things. I still think like a child who believes that if you crush enough flower petals, you'll eventually get some sort of oil to come out.
    One of these days you ought to look up CO2 extraction, which sounds like total magic -- a gas which behaves like a liquid extracts oils without damaging them and then disappears. There's good Wikipedia article about supercritical carbon dioxide.

  13. #73

    Default Re: SAMPLES OF THE DAY - October 2010

    Quote Originally Posted by cello View Post
    Today's sample was Moulin Rouge by Histoires de Parfums. What a fun day at the office, because this one kept me sniffing and guessing, a scent journey!

    Fun! Give it a try!
    Great review, cello. I love this one - very evocative of that era and the whole backstage demimonde. I dated a ballet dancer once upon a time and the backstage dressing room atmosphere was pretty heady with the air full of the scents of make-up, lipstick, powders and potions. Moulin Rouge hints at that but also seems to capture the romance of a dressed up audience with the whole red velvet curtain thing going on - it's olfactory impressionism for me.

    I agree it's fun - I bought a bottle for a friend who can also carry off Lipstick Rose really well - I like it how Tania Sanchez described LR as a rare thing, "a perfume with a sense of humour". I think Moulin Rouge, altho also quite beautiful in a classical way, is also winking at the audience - not for kiddies.

  14. #74
    Basenotes Junkie CX827's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hong Kong
    Posts
    791

    Default Re: SAMPLES OF THE DAY - October 2010

    Quote Originally Posted by mr. reasonable View Post
    I agree it's fun - I bought a bottle for a friend who can also carry off Lipstick Rose really well - I like it how Tania Sanchez described LR as a rare thing, "a perfume with a sense of humour". I think Moulin Rouge, altho also quite beautiful in a classical way, is also winking at the audience - not for kiddies.
    And that! i must try to get a hold of it. It's good to loosen up once in a while

  15. #75
    rogalal's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Berkeley, California
    Posts
    3,373
    Blog Entries
    33

    Default Re: SAMPLES OF THE DAY - October 2010

    In the spirit of perfumes with a sense of humor, yesterday I tested Honoré des Prés I ♥ Les Carottes.



    One of the things I've always liked about L'Artisan Parfumeur is that they have quirky scents like Bois Farine or Poivre Piquant that smell like something weird, but they somehow make them smell like proper perfumes nonetheless. With its New York Collection from Olivia Giocabetti, Honoré des Prés seems to be picking up that same theme.

    Not surprisingly, I ♥ Les Carottes kicks off with a carrot note. Actually, it's mostly a really carroty orris root note, but there's a cute story about Olivia, who rented a flat in Harlem to live in New York while she worked on these scents, mashing up all the different kinds of carrots she could find at farmers markets, looking for the specific kind that she would want the essential oil from, so it's safe to say that there's some actual carrot in here, too. It's paired with orange and something sparkly that I think are some unlisted aldehydes. Within a half an hour or so, a light vanilla note comes in, too.

    So what does it smell like? Well, it's actually a really good, incredibly creamy iris scent that's quite sweet. The carrot is definitely there and requires a bit of a sense of humor to pull it off, but it's just one element in what's truly a proper perfume. If you can imagine Dior Homme with the cocoa and the masculine spices taken out and replaced with orange and sweet carrot, you'd be kind of close. Or, if you can imagine 28 La Pausa with its pepper and orange over iris, just take out the pepper and replace it with sweet carrot and then take out Pausa's slight cheese note and make it super-mega creamy with some vanilla.

    All in all, I ♥ Les Carottes is actually a pretty great perfume. Sure, you have to have a decent sense of humor to pull it off, but even though it's a bit of a novelty, you can tell it was actually put together with great care by a really good nose. If you like sweet, creamy irises and feel like a happy laugh, you should really check it out.
    Last edited by rogalal; 31st October 2010 at 08:24 PM.
    Has everyone checked out my Top 100 Blog??

  16. #76

    Default Re: SAMPLES OF THE DAY - October 2010

    ^^^I didn't know those fragraces were done by Giocabetti. Hmmm, now I am more interested in sniffing them! Even carrots

  17. #77
    rogalal's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Berkeley, California
    Posts
    3,373
    Blog Entries
    33

    Default Re: SAMPLES OF THE DAY - October 2010

    For the last couple of days, I've been getting to know another obscure scent, Le Boise by Ginestet (probably best known as "that one in the wine bottle").



    In theory, Le Boise is supposed to smell like an old oak wine barrel. I'm not sure how close they got to that, but it is a really nice wood smell. It manages to hit the absolute perfect ratio of oak and cedar where you get the best of both without any of the drawbacks (when not done perfectly, oak can get too dry and dusty while cedar can have that hamster cage smell). There's also a slug of pepper that comes in quickly and a pinch of frankincense that arrives later. I'm not sure if it's a little bit of fruit or just a "red"-smelling aspect of the cedar, but it does succeed in creating the feel of old wood that's been soaked in wine.

    So, in terms of smell, Le Boise is great, but with one huge problem. It behaves almost like a splash cologne. It goes on strong and immediately fades, disappearing down to a lightly woody spot on my skin within an hour or two. Seriously, it has the pitiful longevity of a lime splash. I've applied this four times now and used up my sample trying it on different areas and in different amounts, all with no luck. If I had a full bottle, I could probably reapply over the course of the day, constantly refreshing and enjoying the great topnotes over and over again, but I really wish they'd taken some of what was clearly a rather large packaging budget and used it to increase the concentration of the juice.
    Has everyone checked out my Top 100 Blog??

Similar Threads

  1. SOTD Sunday, October 3, 2010
    By ajmc in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 78
    Last Post: 4th October 2010, 06:13 AM
  2. SoTD ~ Sunday October 3rd 2010
    By domperrier in forum Female Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 50
    Last Post: 4th October 2010, 02:55 AM
  3. SOTD Friday, October 1, 2010
    By ajmc in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 94
    Last Post: 2nd October 2010, 04:55 AM
  4. SOTD Friday 01 October 2010
    By ROBERTO in forum Female Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 19
    Last Post: 1st October 2010, 07:34 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •