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  1. #1

    Default Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    Let's say a new Fragrance House was getting ready to begin production on boutique, handmade, EDP's. This new house wants to make things that the hardcore fragrance lovers like all of you are looking for, not stuff like what the masses purchase.

    What are you looking for that you haven't been able to find?

    OR

    What would you like to see that might be similar to something you love, but altered one way or another?

    For instance: Say there is a fragrance you like but if it just had a bit more _______ you'd really love it.

    In my case I never seem completely pleased with the chypre fragrances I find. I would ask for something really dirty and mossy with less citrus up top.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    Something with tobacco, amber and aoud, that has the same complexity of amouage dia, but much stronger.

  3. #3
    rogalal's Avatar
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    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    Truly interesting scents that evolve in clever ways, while still managing to smell good the whole time.

    Scents that don't just fall into the trap of overplayed niche recipes (cedar + incense, oud + rose, etc.)

    A complete and utter refusal to use "woody amber" or combine vanilla, cassis, and flowers...
    Has everyone checked out my Top 100 Blog??
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  4. #4
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    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    A sustainable source of Mysore sandalwood, and inventive new scents that incorporate it.
    Spray it, don’t say it…
    WARDROBE

  5. #5

    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    I'd like to smell Angel Men without the tar. I would also welcome a company that is "green." That their products don't kill animals in the making and they don't use any dangerousl chemicals.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    I would love a more "barbershop-like", a more soapy version of a male or unisex frag

  7. #7

    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    I think my requests have already been pretty well stated - but that won't stop me

    Bring back real Mysore Sandalwood - most 'sandalwood' scents are nothing like the real deal . . . altho I guess we'll just have to sit and watch the trees grow for another decade or two until there are enough to chop down again without wiping out the species.

    Bring back a decent dose of real oakmoss in some masculine styled fougeres . . . I can sense the style / genre being revisitied with stuff like Dhofar and Opus II but it would be nice to get something fuller and mossier happening. Is it just me or have we lost the forest floor accord from modern perfumery and replaced it with a veneer of poorly treated easily scratched cheap wood?

    Bring back more finely crafted scents that defy two word descriptions. Stuff with character, a personality of it's own . . . Patou Pour Homme is COMPLEX damnit, someone spent a bit of time working on this one.

    A new Beatles album would be good too

  8. #8

    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    A top-notch leather on a rough cuir-de-russie base, very close to Lanvin's Scandal morphing into a smoky and tad dirty skin scent, but yes on the rough side. I take it that it is probably impossible to do nowadays with all the "verboten" chemicals... sigh!

    A truly elegant Ubar minus the muguet note, which is in the end too fresh on me, I think. Amping up the civet (sorry, I can hardly smell it, which is either a problem in general I have with the lab subsitute or the little amount used today due to our "cleanness" frenzy) and the dirty aspect quite more, definitely keeping the deep and rich ambergris base, but maybe adding a tad darkness to it Why is 'elegant' so fresh and clean today?

    A tobacco frag, which is hard to pin down for me at the moment. Tabac Blond, but probably less sweet adding more tobacco, just slightly rougher but richer and still soft like aromatic cigarillos, more ambergris and something from Chergui (hay?) I can not say.... hmmm, need to think about this one more...

    That should keep you busy for a while

  9. #9

    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    Also, another idea I just came up with would be a fragrance- most likely niche/boutique/experimental, but a designer fragrance house might pick up this initiative too- would be a leathery and/or tobacco and/or chypre male frag with Mediterranean herbs and pasta/pizza seasoning notes, maybe also slightly salty and smoky, without smelling excessively foody and/or gourmand, though.

    Now that would be a fragrance-related challenge!

  10. #10

    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    a reasonably priced perfume house that concentrates on simple and clever combinations.
    many less used ingredients.
    lots of edc.

    walnut green. mastic rose. tar and fruits. eau de tarragon. et cetera.

  11. #11
    Pimpinett's Avatar
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    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    A peppery, spicy and dry carnation fragrance, heavy on the eugenol, more on the clove side of things, but still with a hefty dose of carnation - a slightly "masculine" carnation, maybe? I don't mind powdery, but they tend to be overly sweet and floral. Galbanum and pepper up top, incense and cedar in the base, maybe leather, too? Not vanilla or tonka, that always seems to amplify the sweetness of carnation. I had high hopes for the CdG Carnation, but it wasn't quite it.

  12. #12

    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    Quote Originally Posted by Vincents1278 View Post
    In my case I never seem completely pleased with the chypre fragrances I find. I would ask for something really dirty and mossy with less citrus up top.
    Maybe Rumeur vintage (of course) by Lanvin? I am not really that much into chypres, but this "formal", "dead serious" and rather "regal" one has me smitten on the right day. I'd say it is my no. 1 chypre.

  13. #13
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    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    Quote Originally Posted by Pimpinett View Post
    A peppery, spicy and dry carnation fragrance, heavy on the eugenol, more on the clove side of things, but still with a hefty dose of carnation - a slightly "masculine" carnation, maybe? I don't mind powdery, but they tend to be overly sweet and floral. Galbanum and pepper up top, incense and cedar in the base, maybe leather, too? Not vanilla or tonka, that always seems to amplify the sweetness of carnation. I had high hopes for the CdG Carnation, but it wasn't quite it.
    I agree totally.
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/370...o-Profumo-Onda
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  14. #14
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    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    Quote Originally Posted by Ken_Russell View Post
    I would love a more "barbershop-like", a more soapy version of a male or unisex frag
    Me, too.

  15. #15

    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    Ditto for the barber shop scent, Ken

  16. #16

    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    Quote Originally Posted by Larimar View Post
    Maybe Rumeur vintage (of course) by Lanvin? I am not really that much into chypres, but this "formal", "dead serious" and rather "regal" one has me smitten on the right day. I'd say it is my no. 1 chypre.
    Thanks for the info, Larimar. I appreciate it

  17. #17

    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    Quote Originally Posted by sarıpatates View Post
    a reasonably priced perfume house that concentrates on simple and clever combinations.
    many less used ingredients.
    lots of edc.
    Just what I was thinking

  18. #18

    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    Very high quality rip-offs of classics, a bit like "The Party In Manhattan" did for Mitsuoko.

  19. #19
    rogalal's Avatar
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    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    Quote Originally Posted by Ken_Russell View Post
    Also, another idea I just came up with would be a fragrance- most likely niche/boutique/experimental, but a designer fragrance house might pick up this initiative too- would be a leathery and/or tobacco and/or chypre male frag with Mediterranean herbs and pasta/pizza seasoning notes, maybe also slightly salty and smoky, without smelling excessively foody and/or gourmand, though.

    Now that would be a fragrance-related challenge!
    If you can handle rose and oud, you need to try Paestum Rose...
    Has everyone checked out my Top 100 Blog??
    Currently wearing: Lys 41 by Le Labo

  20. #20
    Hillaire
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    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    Quote Originally Posted by Pimpinett View Post
    A peppery, spicy and dry carnation fragrance, heavy on the eugenol, more on the clove side of things, but still with a hefty dose of carnation - a slightly "masculine" carnation, maybe? I don't mind powdery, but they tend to be overly sweet and floral. Galbanum and pepper up top, incense and cedar in the base, maybe leather, too? Not vanilla or tonka, that always seems to amplify the sweetness of carnation. I had high hopes for the CdG Carnation, but it wasn't quite it.
    You need to get your hands on the original Scherrer!
    The ivy note does a very 'peppery' thing to it; it's a heavy-hitting carnation chypre, which is not sweet and manages that nice, woody leather-effect old green chypres used to do. You have to try it....if you have not already.

    I'd personally love to see a green, peppery chypre that has interesting fruity notes, like loquats or Meyer lemons. Not too sweet and not too citric. My mind can smell it perfectly.

    I'd also love to smell more opulent aldehydic grande dame-type scents. I think it's high time for a comeback!

  21. #21
    Pimpinett's Avatar
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    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    Quote Originally Posted by Hillaire View Post
    You need to get your hands on the original Scherrer!
    The ivy note does a very 'peppery' thing to it; it's a heavy-hitting carnation chypre, which is not sweet and manages that nice, woody leather-effect old green chypres used to do. You have to try it....if you have not already.

    I'd personally love to see a green, peppery chypre that has interesting fruity notes, like loquats or Meyer lemons. Not too sweet and not too citric. My mind can smell it perfectly.

    I'd also love to smell more opulent aldehydic grande dame-type scents. I think it's high time for a comeback!
    I haven't even heard of it, but it sounds glorious, thank you! Will definitely hunt that one down.

    Aldehydes are definitely due for a come-back - should appeal to retro sensibilities, at least if they're dumbed down a little for modern noses.

  22. #22
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    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    Inventive florals: either fragrances exploring traditional floral notes in a novel way, or realistically depicting out-of-the-mainstream flowers. If you're going to do a rose, don't just do a nice rose, show me you can do something that makes your rose unique. And don't stop there - why not try making high-quality soliflores based around broom, karo karounde, boronia, or any other flower where all the materials are there?

    That's what I'd personally like most to see, but it generally I find myself eager to explore any and all unusual notes and accords rather than same-old same-old. This especially goes for niche perfumery, where I want a fragrance to give me something no other fragrance before it has given me. It's a lot to ask, but given than perfumers have and continue to deliver it now and then, I know it's possible!

  23. #23

    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    Looks like most everyone wants something interesting and not looking for 'safe' fragrances that can be worn all day or to the office.

  24. #24
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    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    Something that is complex
    something that that was pre reformulated
    and not synthetic The real Ingredients of
    Civet Oppoponax with real resins of myrrah
    Labdanum Tolu Balsam Incense something with more
    exotic throwback from the 80's and brings back the Aldehydes
    in modern perfumes

  25. #25

    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    Wow, people, you know exactly what you want - I admire that! I would say that I will be happy about anything that could surprise me.

  26. #26

    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    Everyone wants more more more. More creative, more inventive, more more more. I say we go less.. like, maybe a single ingredient.

    Y'know, someone should just bottle diluted ambroxan and sell it!






    ...oh, wait.
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    Iris Pallida 50ml

    Ungaro I 75ml

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  27. #27

    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    Quote Originally Posted by mr. reasonable View Post
    Bring back a decent dose of real oakmoss in some masculine styled fougeres . . . I can sense the style / genre being revisitied with stuff like Dhofar and Opus II but it would be nice to get something fuller and mossier happening. Is it just me or have we lost the forest floor accord from modern perfumery and replaced it with a veneer of poorly treated easily scratched cheap wood?
    This is what I want, bold fougères with lots of moss.
    Rare, vintage, and niche off-site sales.
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  28. #28
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    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    For those looking for peppery carnation, try Caron Poivre.

    reine

  29. #29

    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    This is what I want, bold fougères with lots of moss.
    This is what originally sparked my curiosity of what others wanted. I like deep, dark mossy fragrances and I'm not finding any that don't also have bright citrus notes which just don't seem to fit.

    I'm hoping to play with oakmoss and thick floral notes as well as with some dark woody notes and other earthy smells. Perhaps it'll wind up too heavy but at least I can say I tried.

  30. #30

    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    Quote Originally Posted by Weimar27 View Post
    Something that is complex
    something that that was pre reformulated
    and not synthetic The real Ingredients of
    Civet Oppoponax with real resins of myrrah
    Labdanum Tolu Balsam Incense something with more
    exotic throwback from the 80's and brings back the Aldehydes
    in modern perfumes
    Yes! Labdanum and aldehydes!

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