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  1. #1

    Default Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    Let's say a new Fragrance House was getting ready to begin production on boutique, handmade, EDP's. This new house wants to make things that the hardcore fragrance lovers like all of you are looking for, not stuff like what the masses purchase.

    What are you looking for that you haven't been able to find?

    OR

    What would you like to see that might be similar to something you love, but altered one way or another?

    For instance: Say there is a fragrance you like but if it just had a bit more _______ you'd really love it.

    In my case I never seem completely pleased with the chypre fragrances I find. I would ask for something really dirty and mossy with less citrus up top.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    Something with tobacco, amber and aoud, that has the same complexity of amouage dia, but much stronger.

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    Truly interesting scents that evolve in clever ways, while still managing to smell good the whole time.

    Scents that don't just fall into the trap of overplayed niche recipes (cedar + incense, oud + rose, etc.)

    A complete and utter refusal to use "woody amber" or combine vanilla, cassis, and flowers...
    Has everyone checked out my Top 100 Blog??

  4. #4

    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    A sustainable source of Mysore sandalwood, and inventive new scents that incorporate it.
    Spray it, don’t say it…
    WARDROBE

  5. #5

    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    I'd like to smell Angel Men without the tar. I would also welcome a company that is "green." That their products don't kill animals in the making and they don't use any dangerousl chemicals.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    I would love a more "barbershop-like", a more soapy version of a male or unisex frag

  7. #7

    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    I think my requests have already been pretty well stated - but that won't stop me

    Bring back real Mysore Sandalwood - most 'sandalwood' scents are nothing like the real deal . . . altho I guess we'll just have to sit and watch the trees grow for another decade or two until there are enough to chop down again without wiping out the species.

    Bring back a decent dose of real oakmoss in some masculine styled fougeres . . . I can sense the style / genre being revisitied with stuff like Dhofar and Opus II but it would be nice to get something fuller and mossier happening. Is it just me or have we lost the forest floor accord from modern perfumery and replaced it with a veneer of poorly treated easily scratched cheap wood?

    Bring back more finely crafted scents that defy two word descriptions. Stuff with character, a personality of it's own . . . Patou Pour Homme is COMPLEX damnit, someone spent a bit of time working on this one.

    A new Beatles album would be good too

  8. #8

    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    A top-notch leather on a rough cuir-de-russie base, very close to Lanvin's Scandal morphing into a smoky and tad dirty skin scent, but yes on the rough side. I take it that it is probably impossible to do nowadays with all the "verboten" chemicals... sigh!

    A truly elegant Ubar minus the muguet note, which is in the end too fresh on me, I think. Amping up the civet (sorry, I can hardly smell it, which is either a problem in general I have with the lab subsitute or the little amount used today due to our "cleanness" frenzy) and the dirty aspect quite more, definitely keeping the deep and rich ambergris base, but maybe adding a tad darkness to it Why is 'elegant' so fresh and clean today?

    A tobacco frag, which is hard to pin down for me at the moment. Tabac Blond, but probably less sweet adding more tobacco, just slightly rougher but richer and still soft like aromatic cigarillos, more ambergris and something from Chergui (hay?) I can not say.... hmmm, need to think about this one more...

    That should keep you busy for a while

  9. #9

    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    Also, another idea I just came up with would be a fragrance- most likely niche/boutique/experimental, but a designer fragrance house might pick up this initiative too- would be a leathery and/or tobacco and/or chypre male frag with Mediterranean herbs and pasta/pizza seasoning notes, maybe also slightly salty and smoky, without smelling excessively foody and/or gourmand, though.

    Now that would be a fragrance-related challenge!

  10. #10

    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    a reasonably priced perfume house that concentrates on simple and clever combinations.
    many less used ingredients.
    lots of edc.

    walnut green. mastic rose. tar and fruits. eau de tarragon. et cetera.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    A peppery, spicy and dry carnation fragrance, heavy on the eugenol, more on the clove side of things, but still with a hefty dose of carnation - a slightly "masculine" carnation, maybe? I don't mind powdery, but they tend to be overly sweet and floral. Galbanum and pepper up top, incense and cedar in the base, maybe leather, too? Not vanilla or tonka, that always seems to amplify the sweetness of carnation. I had high hopes for the CdG Carnation, but it wasn't quite it.

  12. #12

    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    Quote Originally Posted by Vincents1278 View Post
    In my case I never seem completely pleased with the chypre fragrances I find. I would ask for something really dirty and mossy with less citrus up top.
    Maybe Rumeur vintage (of course) by Lanvin? I am not really that much into chypres, but this "formal", "dead serious" and rather "regal" one has me smitten on the right day. I'd say it is my no. 1 chypre.

  13. #13
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    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    Quote Originally Posted by Pimpinett View Post
    A peppery, spicy and dry carnation fragrance, heavy on the eugenol, more on the clove side of things, but still with a hefty dose of carnation - a slightly "masculine" carnation, maybe? I don't mind powdery, but they tend to be overly sweet and floral. Galbanum and pepper up top, incense and cedar in the base, maybe leather, too? Not vanilla or tonka, that always seems to amplify the sweetness of carnation. I had high hopes for the CdG Carnation, but it wasn't quite it.
    I agree totally.
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/370...o-Profumo-Onda
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  14. #14

    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    Quote Originally Posted by Ken_Russell View Post
    I would love a more "barbershop-like", a more soapy version of a male or unisex frag
    Me, too.

  15. #15

    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    Ditto for the barber shop scent, Ken

  16. #16

    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    Quote Originally Posted by Larimar View Post
    Maybe Rumeur vintage (of course) by Lanvin? I am not really that much into chypres, but this "formal", "dead serious" and rather "regal" one has me smitten on the right day. I'd say it is my no. 1 chypre.
    Thanks for the info, Larimar. I appreciate it

  17. #17

    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    Quote Originally Posted by sarıpatates View Post
    a reasonably priced perfume house that concentrates on simple and clever combinations.
    many less used ingredients.
    lots of edc.
    Just what I was thinking

  18. #18

    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    Very high quality rip-offs of classics, a bit like "The Party In Manhattan" did for Mitsuoko.

  19. #19
    rogalal's Avatar
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    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    Quote Originally Posted by Ken_Russell View Post
    Also, another idea I just came up with would be a fragrance- most likely niche/boutique/experimental, but a designer fragrance house might pick up this initiative too- would be a leathery and/or tobacco and/or chypre male frag with Mediterranean herbs and pasta/pizza seasoning notes, maybe also slightly salty and smoky, without smelling excessively foody and/or gourmand, though.

    Now that would be a fragrance-related challenge!
    If you can handle rose and oud, you need to try Paestum Rose...
    Has everyone checked out my Top 100 Blog??

  20. #20
    Hillaire
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    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    Quote Originally Posted by Pimpinett View Post
    A peppery, spicy and dry carnation fragrance, heavy on the eugenol, more on the clove side of things, but still with a hefty dose of carnation - a slightly "masculine" carnation, maybe? I don't mind powdery, but they tend to be overly sweet and floral. Galbanum and pepper up top, incense and cedar in the base, maybe leather, too? Not vanilla or tonka, that always seems to amplify the sweetness of carnation. I had high hopes for the CdG Carnation, but it wasn't quite it.
    You need to get your hands on the original Scherrer!
    The ivy note does a very 'peppery' thing to it; it's a heavy-hitting carnation chypre, which is not sweet and manages that nice, woody leather-effect old green chypres used to do. You have to try it....if you have not already.

    I'd personally love to see a green, peppery chypre that has interesting fruity notes, like loquats or Meyer lemons. Not too sweet and not too citric. My mind can smell it perfectly.

    I'd also love to smell more opulent aldehydic grande dame-type scents. I think it's high time for a comeback!

  21. #21

    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    Quote Originally Posted by Hillaire View Post
    You need to get your hands on the original Scherrer!
    The ivy note does a very 'peppery' thing to it; it's a heavy-hitting carnation chypre, which is not sweet and manages that nice, woody leather-effect old green chypres used to do. You have to try it....if you have not already.

    I'd personally love to see a green, peppery chypre that has interesting fruity notes, like loquats or Meyer lemons. Not too sweet and not too citric. My mind can smell it perfectly.

    I'd also love to smell more opulent aldehydic grande dame-type scents. I think it's high time for a comeback!
    I haven't even heard of it, but it sounds glorious, thank you! Will definitely hunt that one down.

    Aldehydes are definitely due for a come-back - should appeal to retro sensibilities, at least if they're dumbed down a little for modern noses.

  22. #22

    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    Inventive florals: either fragrances exploring traditional floral notes in a novel way, or realistically depicting out-of-the-mainstream flowers. If you're going to do a rose, don't just do a nice rose, show me you can do something that makes your rose unique. And don't stop there - why not try making high-quality soliflores based around broom, karo karounde, boronia, or any other flower where all the materials are there?

    That's what I'd personally like most to see, but it generally I find myself eager to explore any and all unusual notes and accords rather than same-old same-old. This especially goes for niche perfumery, where I want a fragrance to give me something no other fragrance before it has given me. It's a lot to ask, but given than perfumers have and continue to deliver it now and then, I know it's possible!

  23. #23

    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    Looks like most everyone wants something interesting and not looking for 'safe' fragrances that can be worn all day or to the office.

  24. #24
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    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    Something that is complex
    something that that was pre reformulated
    and not synthetic The real Ingredients of
    Civet Oppoponax with real resins of myrrah
    Labdanum Tolu Balsam Incense something with more
    exotic throwback from the 80's and brings back the Aldehydes
    in modern perfumes

  25. #25

    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    Wow, people, you know exactly what you want - I admire that! I would say that I will be happy about anything that could surprise me.

  26. #26

    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    Everyone wants more more more. More creative, more inventive, more more more. I say we go less.. like, maybe a single ingredient.

    Y'know, someone should just bottle diluted ambroxan and sell it!






    ...oh, wait.
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    Iris Pallida 50ml

    Ungaro I 75ml

    and more!
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  27. #27

    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    Quote Originally Posted by mr. reasonable View Post
    Bring back a decent dose of real oakmoss in some masculine styled fougeres . . . I can sense the style / genre being revisitied with stuff like Dhofar and Opus II but it would be nice to get something fuller and mossier happening. Is it just me or have we lost the forest floor accord from modern perfumery and replaced it with a veneer of poorly treated easily scratched cheap wood?
    This is what I want, bold fougères with lots of moss.
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  28. #28

    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    For those looking for peppery carnation, try Caron Poivre.

    reine

  29. #29

    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    This is what I want, bold fougères with lots of moss.
    This is what originally sparked my curiosity of what others wanted. I like deep, dark mossy fragrances and I'm not finding any that don't also have bright citrus notes which just don't seem to fit.

    I'm hoping to play with oakmoss and thick floral notes as well as with some dark woody notes and other earthy smells. Perhaps it'll wind up too heavy but at least I can say I tried.

  30. #30

    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    Quote Originally Posted by Weimar27 View Post
    Something that is complex
    something that that was pre reformulated
    and not synthetic The real Ingredients of
    Civet Oppoponax with real resins of myrrah
    Labdanum Tolu Balsam Incense something with more
    exotic throwback from the 80's and brings back the Aldehydes
    in modern perfumes
    Yes! Labdanum and aldehydes!

  31. #31
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    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    Give John Varvatos some steroids and itd be perfect...

    I have not been able to find many gourmands like A*Men. There really are not many gourmands out there, and especially ones that are PURE gourmand. So many have unnecessary florals or other various notes. I want a pure gourmand. Also there are no bizzare gourmands!

  32. #32

    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    I'm sort of surprised by the mention of gourmands by more than one person. Not sure why. Just am.

  33. #33

    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    A fragrance like a vintage tabarome, peppery, tobacco dominant, woodsy masculine scent. I have bdp and I love it but I want something with some more tobacco , strong , ruthless and masculine. Bdp is ruthless but more in a classy way, vintage tab is just ruthless without any care in the world if it is classy or not. I want something like that. I have or either have targeted virtually everything I want but THAT is what I would love to see.

  34. #34

    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    Quote Originally Posted by sarıpatates View Post
    a reasonably priced perfume house that concentrates on simple and clever combinations.
    many less used ingredients.
    lots of edc.

    walnut green. mastic rose. tar and fruits. eau de tarragon. et cetera.
    Your description reminds me of Jo Malone. I wish they had more masculine-leaning scents.
    Everyone is entitled to his own opinions, but not his own facts. Daniel Moynihan

  35. #35

    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    Quote Originally Posted by Sugandaraja View Post
    Inventive florals: either fragrances exploring traditional floral notes in a novel way, or realistically depicting out-of-the-mainstream flowers. If you're going to do a rose, don't just do a nice rose, show me you can do something that makes your rose unique. And don't stop there - why not try making high-quality soliflores based around broom, karo karounde, boronia, or any other flower where all the materials are there?

    That's what I'd personally like most to see, but it generally I find myself eager to explore any and all unusual notes and accords rather than same-old same-old. This especially goes for niche perfumery, where I want a fragrance to give me something no other fragrance before it has given me. It's a lot to ask, but given than perfumers have and continue to deliver it now and then, I know it's possible!
    I figured you'd ask for more amp'ed up florals, Sug! Ditto; wife and I visited Marie Selby Bot. Gardens this week and smelled some amazing orchids, and with each whiff I thought "Damn, this would make a fantastic perfume note!" One smelled EXACTLY like freshly laundered linen. So, I guess my wish would be for the fragrance industry to go on a new botanical molecule search and find some new stuff to put in the toolbox. Sustainably, of course.
    Everyone is entitled to his own opinions, but not his own facts. Daniel Moynihan

  36. #36

    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    Quote Originally Posted by DavidBond007 View Post
    A fragrance like a vintage tabarome, peppery, tobacco dominant, woodsy masculine scent. I have bdp and I love it but I want something with some more tobacco , strong , ruthless and masculine. Bdp is ruthless but more in a classy way, vintage tab is just ruthless without any care in the world if it is classy or not. I want something like that. I have or either have targeted virtually everything I want but THAT is what I would love to see.
    I agree. More tobacco. I don't think it's used enough in fragrances today. I do see a slight uptick in trend, though. Maybe soon we'll be begging for less tobacco.

  37. #37

    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    Hoping to offer 3ml spray bottles with fragrances we're currently blending and get some feedback from people. Perhaps, depending on interest, 1st come 1st serve or a raffle of sorts. Free samples, of course. Wear for a week or so and tell us what you think, what you'd change, don't like, etc...

    2 current test frags are a deep Fougere blend (oakmoss, lavender, tobacco, orange, etc...) and a thick Floral (Rose, Geranium, Benzoin, Myrhh, etc...)

  38. #38

    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    Sounds very interesting - tobacco-y fougere and a thick floral...

  39. #39

    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    Quote Originally Posted by Ken_Russell View Post
    I would love a more "barbershop-like", a more soapy version of a male or unisex frag
    Maybe something like: mint and bergamot with middles that blend a light floral and vanilla and base notes of tobacco and ylang. Something like vetiver or tobacco to sort of 'thicken' things up.

  40. #40

    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    Quote Originally Posted by Snafoo View Post
    I figured you'd ask for more amp'ed up florals, Sug! Ditto; wife and I visited Marie Selby Bot. Gardens this week and smelled some amazing orchids, and with each whiff I thought "Damn, this would make a fantastic perfume note!" One smelled EXACTLY like freshly laundered linen. So, I guess my wish would be for the fragrance industry to go on a new botanical molecule search and find some new stuff to put in the toolbox. Sustainably, of course.
    I grow orchids commercially and have been making perfumes based on orchid fragrances. You are right - orchid fragrances are absolutely amazing, and the amount of diversity is mind-boggling. The orchids that I focus on are the ones that have unique fragraqnces, not those that smell exactly like something else (e.g., freshly laundered linen, chocolate, clover, dead meat, cedar wood, Chanel Egoiste, etc.). Not to toot my own horn, but since you mentioned orchids, check out my website.
    Blog: www.perfumenw.blogspot.com
    Website: Olympic Orchids Artisan Perfumes http://orchidscents.com.

  41. #41

    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    Okay - a specific request. Frederic Malle mentioned he was developing something with Carlos Benaim - I would like to see the Saint de Saint idea they put together for the candle (drawn from the headspace technology of some Indian temples) into an interesting incense / oriental . . . shouldn't be too much of a stretch?

    Failing that, maybe the Santal Cardomon one might be worth a look . . . I'm thinking something along the lines of Santal Noble meets Clive Christian X for Man could be an interesting direction to explore in the right hands.

    And if anyone else out there has time on their hands I think the accord in the Cire Turdon 'Nazareth' candle is also worth taking into a wearable liquid
    Last edited by mr. reasonable; 4th November 2010 at 11:46 PM.

  42. #42

    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    I dont want anything new. I just want more Chanel and YSL.

  43. #43

    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    if there was one thing i wish perfumes would have more these days is the real, rich, boozy vanilla that you get from vanilla extract and not from vanillin. I love it so much that i almost applied vanilla essence once! sweet, decadent and complex without being too incredibly sweet. MMMM!

  44. #44

    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    Ditto on the Vanilla.

    I've acquired some great Vanilla Absolute. It has a comforting warm scent that's almost nutty.

  45. #45
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    Default

    I would like a really good dark dramatic carnation scent and a ' proper ' chypre with lots of dampness, depth and moss . They should be wearable by both sexes . And......interesting evolution of the fragrance plus decent tenacity. Not nuclear , not fleeting - just decent.
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/370...o-Profumo-Onda
    For sale. Carnal Flower and Vero Profumo Onda.

  46. #46

    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    Do you think you or other people would rather purchase samples in 3ml or 5ml sprayers or receive free or very inexpensive tiny vials? Let's say for the sake of this discussion that the 3 or 5ml atomizers cost about $10 and a vial would be about $4.

    I never seem to have good experiences with the tiny sample vials. They just don't have enough in them.

  47. #47

    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    Vincent, first of all, $4 for a sample vial is not "free or very inexpensive". $10 for 3-5 ml is actually a cheaper price per ml, so a much better deal if you plan to use it all. If the "tiny sample vials" actually were free (that means no cost!), or very inexpensive (say $1.00/vial), I would definitely prefer them for anything that I wanted to sample for the first time. For things that I know I like, I might lay out $10 for a 3-5 ml decant, whether it was in a sprayer or splash vial, but I would want to sample it first.

    Actually, the 1 ml sample vials have plenty in them if you don't overdose. A typical application would be about 0.1 ml, so you should be able to get at least 10 trials out of a vial. I usually get more than that.
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  48. #48

    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    I'm not going to name notes, fragrance families, etc.

    I just want scents that are created with passion and a touch of perfectionism. Scents where the creator has the budget to transform their dreams into reality, and the time to do so. It seems that the few scents I've read where they've been worked on for a year or longer are some of the finest (Prada Amber PH, Bond's Harrods Oud, the older Amouage, many vintage scents, etc).
    ***For sale:

    Iris Pallida 50ml

    Ungaro I 75ml

    and more!
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  49. #49

    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    I'm not into the aldehydes. They leave me cold, with a headache! I love natural scents that work on emotions and that's why I'm oud obsessed. I smelled it in incense form when I 1rst went to London. The Montale's are ok, but I want more easily accessible options. Although, it's nice that somethings remain precious and difficult to obtain.

    Jar's Diamond Waters has a not too sweet carnation. I love Poivre! Is it my imagination, but 20 years ago, was it so expensive? I remember it being in at least 2 dept stores in San Francisco.

  50. #50
    ECaruthers's Avatar
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    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    Quote Originally Posted by Doc Elly View Post
    I grow orchids commercially and have been making perfumes based on orchid fragrances. You are right - orchid fragrances are absolutely amazing, and the amount of diversity is mind-boggling. The orchids that I focus on are the ones that have unique fragraqnces, not those that smell exactly like something else (e.g., freshly laundered linen, chocolate, clover, dead meat, cedar wood, Chanel Egoiste, etc.). Not to toot my own horn, but since you mentioned orchids, check out my website.
    I agree and would add that lots of other flowers could provide inspiration. I have a mum with a great floral-herbal smell. The flowers of irises smell great and are very different from the root-derived orris note.

    I also really like the smell of tomato leaves in early summer and think it could mix with many other notes.

  51. #51

    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    You're right, $4 per vial is not inexpensive.
    How about something like $5 for a pack of 4 samples?
    I had an idea also for enthusiastic customers to get a chance at winning a free 10ml atomizer of their favorite scent from the sample pack. I'm not sure how one might enter, though. Wouldn't want to give free stuff away to someone who didn't want one.

  52. #52
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    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    Several times now I've spent $20 for a pack of 6-8 samples from a niche perfumer. It was money well spent. Kitty & I found what we liked and what we didn't. And comparing/contrasting within a set is fun.

    I think each sample was only 1.5 or 2 ml. It's enough to test on paper, on Kitty's skin, on my skin, and even on one friend's skin. And we still have some of each left for future reconsiderations.

  53. #53
    Un profumo affettuoso
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    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    I want a scent which is versatile, original and made of high-quality ingredients. A scent which does not emphasize the top-notes (which are so volatile), but which has a wonderfully constructed dry-down consisting of oakmoss, cedarwood and leather. Nothing sweet, no fashionable gourmand-scent, but something which could be considered timeless - and unisex.
    I'd want this scent to be available in perfume strength and would want it to last for 12 hs on my skin.

    (Should YOU know any such perfume, don't hesitate to tell me!!! I'm still searching for the HOLY GRAIL in perfumes...alas. )

  54. #54

    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    Quote Originally Posted by PaulSC View Post
    A sustainable source of Mysore sandalwood, and inventive new scents that incorporate it.
    +1 to PaulSC
    also, smaller bottles with smaller prices. Don't you think some of the bottle sizes are getting absurd ?

    Prices that are more reasonable. For instance, I love FM Vetiver Extr. but the price is all hype.

  55. #55

    Default Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    Maybe I missed it, but I find it interesting no one mentioned musk

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