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  1. #1

    Default NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose


    Space reserved for index, statistics, etc.


    years: 2003 - 2010

    Last edited by narcus; 26th February 2010 at 02:04 PM.

  2. #2

    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose


    After a long pause, the first issue of 2010 includes brief reviews of perfumes selected from the domain of niche perfumery.



    English text : Notes from the Nose : Tiaré

    Original publication : Duftnote -- Lob des Nischenparfums



    I hope you will enjoy that...

    Happy New Year !
    Narcus
    __________________________________________________ ____________
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali. - The world of perfumes is a universe without limits: a scent can evoke feelings, places, people or even lead into a space of new emotional dimensions. Lorenzo Villoresi
    Last edited by narcus; 27th February 2010 at 09:52 AM.

  3. #3

    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose


    February 1, 2010





    Aldehydes are everywhere since Chanel No. 5, but don’t amines smell fishy? Yes, all except one do, and there’s the first little mystery: methyl anthranilate. Draw the structure on a napkin, ask a rookie chemist to guess its smell, and she will probably say, “Harsh, fishy, aniline like.” Open a bottle and surprise her: American grape. Methyl anthranilate, an essential component of white floral compositions, is what made Narcisse Noir and l’Heure Bleue so wonderful. Anthranilate comes with a warning: mix it with aldehydes and after a day or two your perfume will go dark, your soap bar completely black, because the quantum mechanics of the -C=N- group are such that it absorbs light...
    Last edited by narcus; 26th February 2010 at 02:06 PM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  4. #4

    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / YSL Opium

    February 27, 2010:


    Notes from the nose -- Opium (printed Monday, Mar 1 2010)



    © Patrick Rohner, Zürich

    O P I U M
    "Opium is 30 years old ! I make it 33, since it came out in 1977, but lying about your age is ok."...

    By Luca Turin
    copyright NZZ
    [article in German
    : Noch besser als Sex]

    The name, for a start, outrageous enough to get publicity, but not so much that you lose customers. The slogan was “Pour les femmes qui s’adonnent (give themselves over) à Yves Saint Laurent”. The women in the ads, though fully dressed, looked as if the great gay genius had figured out something better than sex. There were protestations all over the world, and the fragrance was banned in China and the Gulf States. The Chinese couldn’t afford it anyway, and Gulf customers simply went to Paris to buy it. Saint Laurent upped the ante in 2000 with a naked Sophie Dahl making love to Invisible Man, but the original was funnier and more apt.... (the whole story)


    Luca Turin works at the MIT; he lives in Boston.
    Last edited by narcus; 11th March 2010 at 09:06 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  5. #5

    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Thanks for the preview and the link. I didn't realize that Josephine Catapano had collaborated with Bernard Chant on various fragrances. Interesting the tidbits one picks up from LT.

    Years ago I read that Estee Lauder was most unhappy when Opium was released. She said it was Youth Dew with a tassle. Well, it's much more than that, but it's probably true that YD paved the way for Opium.

  6. #6

    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Thanks for keeping the series going, narcus.

  7. #7

    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    My pleasure, VintageVogue, mr. reasonable, and all thinkalikes !

    I assume the ban on this wonderful fragrance has long been lifted in China and the Gulf states. - (?)
    Last edited by narcus; 1st March 2010 at 04:16 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  8. #8
    DON'T DRINK AND DRESS

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    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Many thanks narcus for keeping us 'posted' with the latest from LT. Great read!
    Last edited by kbe; 28th February 2010 at 12:25 PM.
    Our job is to live joyfully in this world of sorrows--Joseph Campbell

  9. #9

    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / YSL Opium



    Article by Luca Turin
    , copyright NZZ
    from NZZ Folio 04/2010 - Thema: Theater
    link :http://www.nzzfolio.ch/www/21b625ad-36bc-48ea-b615-1c30cd0b472d/showarticle/6fcfbad9-298f-4873-bbe1-079b69891bea.aspx





    By Luca Turin


    When I was a young lad I used to admire older people with great experience, not so much because what they told me seemed useful or interesting, which it seldom did, but because I wondered what it must be like to be so used to things. And not just frightening, unexpected or merely difficult things: beauty, of all things, was to me the hardest one to get used to. It seemed to me that grown-ups could bravely face up to and judge the beauty of things very quickly and get it right whereas I struggled for weeks.

    For example, my parents listened to classical music all the time at home. When they played a new record and declared it wonderful, I felt as if I had been set a fresh, hard problem to solve. All the paintings, books and pieces of music that eventually made me a better person initially felt like bacalhau, nutritious but stiff as a plank. Chewing on Beethoven’s string trios took me years, and I am still soaking his late quartets in running water. Perfume was just as hard, of course, but not part of high culture and therefore never talked about.


    I remember my mother’s Diorama floating like an enigma in the air, its contradictory austere and lush facets demanding to be reconciled by an explanation that never came. But what would the explanation feel like ? There is a painting by Magritte, entitled Explanation, depicting a wine bottle, a carrot, and a wine bottle in the process of turning into a carrot. The half-bottle, half-carrot is properly the work of art, as in artificial (note to translator: Robin, is there a wordplay on Kunst and künstlich that would work ?).


    Maybe Diorama’s beauty lies only in the fact that you eventually, reluctantly, accept it as a whole. Conversely if it were not beautiful, carrot and bottle would never coalesce, no new form would have been created and you would have learnt nothing. I still think strangeness, novelty, and arduousness that softens into self-evidence with time are the attributes of the kind of beauty I was trying to understand as a child.


    There are other kinds: the sublime in which we play no part, for example, the beauty of mountain peaks at sunset or of the smell of roses; and the cute, the beauty of puppies, kittens and cheerleaders. Perfumery lives under constant threat from sublimity and cuteness: wonderful raw materials tempt one to minimalism, hence the endless proliferation of identical vetivers, incense etc. Cuteness, on the other hand, is a sort of artistic dwarfism, the creative equivalent of cooking entirely with “baby” vegetables.


    Lately perfumery cuteness has come either in a bleached-blonde style (fruity florals) or in a dark-haired version with a hint of dark fuzz on the upper lip (Coco Mademoiselle and its descent). Where is Athena with one blue eye and one brown? Where is cross-eyed Aphrodite? I, and all perfume lovers, need to get used to something new.


    Luca Turin works at the MIT; he lives in Boston.

    (end of quote from NZZ Folio)
    Last edited by narcus; 9th April 2010 at 07:11 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  10. #10
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    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Makes me want to smell Diorama again.

  11. #11

    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Thank you, narcus. This is good, solid perfume reading.
    "No sweet perfume ever tortured me more than this." Desert Rose by Sting and Cheb Mami, Album 1999.

  12. #12

    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    I am glad you agree, Primrose! That's why I keep quoting NZZ Folio / Turin.
    The May issue is due in today, let's see what the mail brings...
    Last edited by narcus; 3rd May 2010 at 06:06 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  13. #13

    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Folio 05/2010 : " Thema: Handy /Duftnote " - copyright NZZ



    By Luca Turin



    Two weeks ago I received a phone call from a concert pianist and piano teacher in New York who had gradually lost his sense of smell over a period of years, to the point where only three things still smelled faintly: coffee, chocolate and shit. He had seen an ENT specialist, who apparently looked up his nose and told him that his “olfactory bulb” was looking fine, a remarkable feat considering the bulb is inside the brain. The specialist prescribed a mineral supplement, the medical equivalent of airline sweets.

    Several things this distinguished musician told me were typical of most people in his unfortunate position. First, losing your sense of smell elicits no sympathy whatsoever. Second, those who lose it often feel a terrible loss because what we call taste is mostly smell, so all the pleasures of food are denied to anosmics. All you’re left with is salty, sour, bitter, sweet and umami, not much to go on. Third, the effect on mood is terrible, perhaps unexpectedly so. Another anosmia victim was the journalist Mick O’Hare, who edits the New Scientist magazine. He is as buoyant, positive a man as you’re likely to meet. Yet when he lost his sense of smell after a bad cold he considered suicide.

    His story is exemplary in another respect, because he was cured. After searching high and low, he found a doctor in Washington DC called Robert Henkin who treated him with a drug called theophylline, formerly an asthma medication. It is not clear why this works, and theophylline is not without risks. However, it worked for Mick O’Hare: after over a year his sense of smell started to came back, as luck would have it, while he was on the toilet. He described this to me as “the best smell ever”.

    There are basically four reasons why your sense of smell might not work. The most common is simply a mechanical obstacle preventing the air from reaching the inconspicuous patch of mucosa where the receptor cells dangle in the breeze. That can be figured out by looking up your nose. The second, and most common is post-viral anosmia. An unusually hardy rhinovirus gives you a common cold and takes the opportunity to wipe out the olfactory neurons. These normally grow back —no other part of the nervous system does that so well— but sometimes they don’t. The third reason is something wrong inside your brain, either due to a blow to the head, a tumor or a degenerative disease. Smell loss is an early indicator of several nasty illnesses from Alzheimer’s to Parkinson’s. Finally, there is a collection of other causes such as zinc deficiency, cadmium poisoning etc.

    The most important thing if you suffer smell loss is not to suffer it in silence, and to find a doctor who takes it seriously. Make sure it is not a blockage, then see a neurologist. You only have five senses, and none to spare.


    Luca Turin works at the MIT; he lives in Boston.

    copyright: Neue Zürcher Zeitung, Zürich Switzerland
    Last edited by narcus; 3rd May 2010 at 06:32 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  14. #14
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    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / YSL Opium

    Quote Originally Posted by narcus View Post


    Lately perfumery cuteness has come either in a bleached-blonde style (fruity florals) or in a dark-haired version with a hint of dark fuzz on the upper lip (Coco Mademoiselle and its descent). Where is Athena with one blue eye and one brown? Where is cross-eyed Aphrodite? I, and all perfume lovers, need to get used to something new.
    * * * *

  15. #15
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    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    It appears that not only a zinc difficency can cause loss of sense of smell but also (the zinc gluconate in) Zicam cold rememdy nasal spray may do so also:

    http://coldflu.about.com/od/medicati...zicamsmell.htm
    Last edited by kbe; 3rd May 2010 at 11:51 PM.
    Our job is to live joyfully in this world of sorrows--Joseph Campbell

  16. #16

    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Hmmm... had Turin taught my high school chemistry class I might have actually learned something (and no fallen asleep)
    Passionate supporter of parrot welfare www.thegabrielfoundation.org

  17. #17

    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / YSL Opium

    Thanks very much indeed for all these links. I wonder what Mr Turin makes of the newly-reformulated Opium. I think it's unspeakably sad that the heady dame we know and love appears to be gone forever.
    ---

    I am a Jasmine Award winning fragrance critic, amateur perfumer, Basenotes contributor and regular columnist for Esprit Magazine. My perfume guide, Le Snob: Perfume, is published by Hardie Grant. Click on its title for more info.

    For giveaways, reviews of new perfume releases and thoughts on all sorts of scent-related matters, please visit Persolaise.com or find me on Twitter or Facebook.

    Many thanks.

  18. #18
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    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    My uncle fell in his house, and hit his head so hard on the floor he suffers (even 2 years later) from full anosmia.

    I admit, this is one of my all-time fears. It would be extremely hard to live without my sense of smell.

  19. #19

    Angry Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose




    © Fabienne Boldt






    By Luca Turin

    article in german | order issue | write a letter (to the editors)

    The following is an excerpt from the 2010 / June issue of the monthly magazine from which the following has been copied (clicking on the title will link you to the original web publication).


    "I was recently in Milan and set off on an aimless walk west of the Duomo, past Peck, the landmark delicatessen with a prodigious wine basement — 4-litre jeroboams of Sauternes for the price of a car — through quiet streets named after the clangorous trades of swordsmiths, armourers and spurriers, and eventually past a small perfumery belonging to the Farmacia next door at Via Spadari 13. I still cannot resist the sight of unknown perfume bottles, so I doubled back and stepped in.

    The place is run by an elegant, courtly woman in her fifties who gives her name only as Jelly, no surname. What caught my eye was an array of ten cubical bottles, which turned out to be a line of fragrances designed by one of her long-time customers, Scipione Zanella, a Venetian businessman and fragrance aficionado. Two years ago, having decided that the state of perfumery was unsatisfactory, he walked in to see Ms Jelly one day, declared his intent to create perfumes and asked her what she thought his first creation should smell of. She suggested a linden blossom on the grounds that the only known fragrance of that type, d’Orsay’s Tilleul, could do with some company. To her surprise he appeared a few weeks later with a linden, poetically named F-051 . Over the next year or so his firm, Onediffusion, came up with nine more, all numbered like industrial prototypes. I started smelling them on strips and was very impressed, all the more so because Mr Zanella is said to be the perfumer: these are confident, big-boned, mature, durable fragrances in the classical mold, made with a judicious mixture of naturals and synthetics, sold at perfume concentration and handsomely packaged. My favorite is F-055, a cross between Lauder’s Beautiful and Piguet’s Fracas, a buttery tuberose against a fluorescent woody-rosy background.


    By coincidence, on my return to the US I found a package containing the works of another independent Italian perfumer, Maria Candida Gentile. These mercifully have names rather than numbers and are rich, warm, versicolored, joyful compositions that make you smile with pleasure. Ms Gentile seems to proceed by successive approximations from one fragrance to another and her creations have a strong family resemblance. Unlike many firms, she does not try to do the canonical set to please every type of customer. Those who appreciate the Histoires de Parfums range should try her fragrances.


    The fact that these two firms are Italian is a break with tradition. Italian perfumery so far has largely stuck to four genres: derivative, comfortable spicy-floral fragrances from Krizia’s Teatro alla Scala onwards, overpackaged, expensive cod-apothecary products like Villoresi and SMN, insane hippy foghorn confections like Nasomatto and a host of bloodless eco-friendly claptrap with handwritten labels. Onediffusion and MCG are neither provincial nor touristy, do not frighten horses or save the planet: they are proper fragrances, the way the French used to do them when they still cared."



    __________________________________________________ _________________________________________

    For anyone understanding German or French, or for fans of Luca Turin:
    NZZ still offer their excellent DVD 'PARFUM' containing a documentary on Perfume (20th century and today, 110 minutes). It includes beautiful details on Grasse, (Fragonard, Chanel), a client session with Lorenzo Villoresi, and many other interesting details. The additional bonuses are interviews with the following experts

    - Luca Turin
    ,
    scientist, researcher and perfume critic, 8 minutes, in English
    - Roman Kaiser
    ,
    fragrance scientist and researcher, in German, 26 min.
    - Jean Guichard
    ,
    professional perfumer and director of the Givaudan school for perfumers, native Grassois, in French, 31 min.
    Last edited by narcus; 5th July 2010 at 07:04 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  20. #20

    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Thanks. I see he still nurses his irrational dislike of Villoresi. Considering the quality of the ingredients compared to most other scents in the market, calling LV overpriced is quite ridiculous, however one may think of the perfumes otherwise.
    My Wardrobe
    II est de forts parfums pour qui toute matière/Est poreuse. On dirait qu'ils pénètrent le verre.

  21. #21

    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    An interesting read. Thanks for sharing it.

  22. #22

    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Thanks Narcus - always nice to see this pop up.

    I am sure this is the same little place I chanced on in 2002, sadly before I had a clue about basenotes or much else. On explaining to the lady in the small shop (who answers the description) that I only wore GIT & AdP Colonia but would love to try something new she suggested Tabarome Millesime, for which I am profoundly grateful - it more or less led me here. I was thinking about this shop just a few days ago and wondering what treasures it might hold.

  23. #23

    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    This article seemed like an excuse to re-air Turin's general unhappiness with Italian perfumery--which is fine, especially when it is informative and entertaining, as ever.

    Must keep these two perfumers in mind next time I go to Italy. Or maybe when I am ordering samples.

  24. #24

    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Quote Originally Posted by narcus View Post
    ...are neither provincial nor touristy, do not frighten horses or save the planet: they are proper fragrances, the way the French used to do them when they still cared.
    Lol! I love his humor, born of passion. Turin can be so charmingly evil...

    Thanks for posting these!
    Anakin: What was that all about?
    Obi-Wan: Well, R2 has been...
    Anakin: No loose wire jokes.
    Obi-Wan: Did I say anything?
    Anakin: He's trying.
    Obi-Wan: I didn't say anything!

    -ROTS


  25. #25

    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Thanks so much for posting this, Narcus. Great article. I had not yet drifted over to NZZ this month to see what Dr Turin was up to. Glad to have the reminder here.

  26. #26

    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    a bit off t.
    Do you guys know weather theres a scanned book of Sir Turin wandering the internetz?
    chown -R us ./base

  27. #27

    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Quote Originally Posted by Leukothea View Post
    a bit off t.
    Do you guys know weather theres a scanned book of Sir Turin wandering the internetz?
    Probably not the best place to ask this this question, Leukothea.

    But, possibly the worst

    Why not consider BUYING the book and supporting the efforts of the writers, one of whom is a member of Basenotes?

  28. #28

    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    I think I could fall in love with Dr. Turin: brains, wit, charm and an expert tongue, all in one greatly-scented package!

  29. #29

    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Quote Originally Posted by mr. reasonable View Post
    Probably not the best place to ask this this question, Leukothea.
    But, possibly the worst

    Why not consider BUYING the book and supporting the efforts of the writers, one of whom is a member of Basenotes?
    Actually, both still are, Mr. Reasonable.

    Much to our regret, Mrs. Turin, generally known by her name as an author, Tania Sanchez, only took part in the Basenotes discussions for a brief period in the summer of 2008. Some of us saw her on TV interviews later that year, and maybe also in 2009, together with her husband. The latest I read was that her interests as a creative writer were going into a different direction. I shall try and link you to one of the discussions she participated in (BN Men's Forum) later today.

    edit as promised: Tania Sanchez' Basenotes user name is NYCtbone. She has only posted a few times in April 2008. This may have been the first instance when she joined a discussion:
    Last edited by narcus; 20th June 2010 at 12:20 PM.

  30. #30

    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Quote Originally Posted by mr. reasonable View Post
    Probably not the best place to ask this this question, Leukothea.

    But, possibly the worst

    Why not consider BUYING the book and supporting the efforts of the writers, one of whom is a member of Basenotes?
    well if they offer a students discount i might just consider buying it. Otherwise.. no, not really, i wont
    chown -R us ./base

  31. #31

    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Thanks for that, Narcus - that one was before my time.

  32. #32
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    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Great article. I also discovered M.Candida Gentile a month ago in Venice... and I'm still enthousiastic... - I also agree with LT as far as his criticism of Villoresi is concerned.
    By the way, I think Turin's book /The Guide is a must-read for every fragrance-lover - also a great source of reference when it's handy on your book-shelf. Getting a REAL copy of the book is no mistake!

  33. #33

    Thumbs up Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    unabridged from today's issue of NZZ Folio:





    © Fabienne Boldt






    By Luca Turin

    article in german | larger print | smaller print | print ¦ email | order issue | write a letter


    " This, friends, will be my last Duftnote. Actors want to direct, artists want to run the Ministry of Culture, dancers want to be choreographers, and I want to write about something other than smell. But before I go, I give you the Duftnote of 2030:

    IFRA is over. Now that we can stimulate olfactory cells directly with light, there’s no need for chemicals. At least, there hasn't been since 2013, when a group at the Media Lab (Massachusetts Institute of Technology, my current place of work) successfully replicated a convincing smell of bacon by shining light pulses at three different wavelengths.

    Three years later the technology was sufficiently advanced that perfumers were fooled about whether they were smelling rose oil or light. MIT Chemistry students were among the first to use the technology to identify and remember molecules by associating them with tunes. My son at age 10 smelled wintergreen in a cough drop and said, “Smoke and mint.” When he and his musically-minded sister arrived at MIT, they soon figured out the smoke and mint chords and learned to play them at different speeds—it turns out arpeggiato is best—until they got wintergreen.

    In 2019 at age 20 my son finished a degree in Optogenetic Engineering, while his sister’s third-year assignment at Juilliard was a 3-minute smell piece in which she starts out with a huge cluster chord that smells like wet dog and and one by one removes all the bad notes, ending with Jicky played pianissimo.

    To smell a perfume these days, all you do is spray a solution containing about 200 different harmless viruses up your nose. Each virus infects a different type of olfactory receptor and instructs it to make a particular protein, which pumps electric charge across the membrane when exposed to light of a particular color. After about 18 to 24 hours, the proteins are in place.

    You insert a small fiber optic into your nostril. It is connected to a small machine containing a dozen tunable lasers, which in turn is connected to your laptop and can read a variety of formats like .olf, .noz and .mp7. (Not familiar with them? You haven’t been paying attention.)

    I bought one of the early prototype machines and spent several months just going up and down the scale of molecular vibrations and endlessly playing Vince Guaraldi’s “Cast Your Fate to the Wind” (the second chord smells of lavender soap) on an iPad MIDI keyboard. That was a while ago. Now of course ITunes has a smellable books section, and you can visit the Osmothèque remotely.

    But the best things are completely new: the strange, stately harmonies of smell are now explored by a generation of “nazers,” a movement started in Paris around 2020 that soon took over the world. You are all familiar with their work, no need to go into it. I knew they were onto something when I smelled a piece by Calice Becker’s granddaughter that went from bread to nail varnish to curry in the opening bar. I am smelling her second album as I write.
    "



    < end f quote. >


    Luca Turin works at the MIT; he lives in Boston
    Last edited by narcus; 5th July 2010 at 01:13 PM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  34. #34

    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    A sad day indeed.
    I hope somebody will think about publishing the whole lot together.
    "Don’t try to be original. Be simple. Be good technically, and if there is something in you, it will come out. ” - Henri Matisse.

    "Wear R de Capucci" - Hirch Duckfinder

    reviews

  35. #35

    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    One less thing to look forward to. Come to think of it, I don't like looking forward. So it's alright, then. Thanks, as always, narcus, Duftnote and Luca Turin

  36. #36

    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    If I'm still around in 2030, I hope to be one of those “nazers,” and still be nose-banging to Rock & Smell on my Scent-Pod!
    Last edited by Nymphaea; 5th July 2010 at 07:32 PM.

  37. #37
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    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Great stuff.

  38. #38

    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Thank you Narcus and thank you all for your appreciation over the years. All the best. Luca

  39. #39
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    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Thank you Luca- I'm sad but understand . One must keep evolving. Good luck and stay in touch with Basenotes.
    Last edited by Mimi Gardenia; 5th July 2010 at 08:15 PM.
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/370...o-Profumo-Onda
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  40. #40
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    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Very sad. All the best to you Luca, if you are reading this.

  41. #41
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    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Narcus- thank you too !
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/370...o-Profumo-Onda
    For sale. Carnal Flower and Vero Profumo Onda.

  42. #42

    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Oh, what a pity!
    Let`s google some Dr Turin science articles from time to time.

    I think we should give a round of applauds to Dr. Turin, NZZ Folio and Narcus!
    Vetiver The Great!!!

  43. #43

    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    I hastily opened NZZ Folio this morning to check for readers' comments on the surprising finale to Duftote (Notes from the Nose) last month. I also was curious to see how the gap might have been filled. Look what I found:

    << NZZ Folio 08/10 -
    .... ' Seitenblick - der kleine Unterschied ''
    by Luca Turin
    (Ob Bestsellerliste oder Parfumführer: Wir neigen zu Klassifizierungen. Aber wahre Grösse ist nicht quantifizierbar...) >>

    Article in English (excerpt):

    ..."
    Our desire to rank things by essence is demoted from religion to hobby as we grow up, but still persists in a crassly numerical form in athletic races, world cups, books of lists, and star ratings in perfume guides. An accidental ranking that grips me when I see it is found on the thermostat of clothes irons. At bottom it has nylon and delicates, trashy, clammy, degenerate creatures; then it rises through wool, silk and cotton to the highest level: linen. I imagine the Linen King to look like Jean Marais, at once noble and rustic as if woken from a thousand-year sleep and wearing a smock like James Mason in Prisoner of Zenda. And you thought it was merely temperature.

    Often we rank ourselves. When I was learning to write - with a metal nib dipped in a porcelain inkwell set into the class desk - the teacher would write a beautiful initial letter in red ink and I would fill the line with its black offspring, initially close to the model but getting worse and worse at each generation like Roman emperors after Augustus. By the middle of the line I was scrawling Caligulas and despairing of ever growing up.

    True rank is unquantifiable. Years ago a friend tried to explain to me Gilles Deleuze’s Différence et Répétition to spare me reading it. I boiled it down to a portable concept: all things were like chocolate and coffee éclairs, the same only different. Eclairs are highly evolved creatures, derived from the ancestral chou à la crème by the same anamorphosis that gave us sea cucumbers from urchins. Coffee and chocolate versions are identical in proportions, texture and method of preparation. Their flavors are very complex, both derived from roasted beans. They almost invariably live on the same shelf in the patisserie. Yet I hold it to be self-evident that the coffee éclair is more remote, more aristocratic, more refined, more bloodless than its hearty chocolate sister. Put simply, I felt even as a child that I would probably fall in love with the coffee but marry the chocolate and be happy ever after." (Read all of it here: NZZ Folio, current issue)


    The optimist I am, I now hope this essay was not just a kind act of mercy. I rather believe that Dr. Turin's good relationship with Neue Zürcher Zeitung is going to remain one of the few constants in my life. Maybe not another monthly, just a new article here and there would be something to look forward to.

    Last edited by narcus; 2nd August 2010 at 04:02 PM. Reason: typos
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  44. #44
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    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Yes narcus.

    I read, on the Perfumes: The Guide website here, that Turin will continue to have a non-perfume column in NZZ Folio.

  45. #45

    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Great news. He's a joy to read on any subject.
    Rare, vintage, and niche off-site sales.
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    New atomizer and decanting supplies for sale.
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  46. #46

    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Great reading, thanks for keeping all of us up-to-date on Turin, Narcus.

  47. #47

    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Thank you for sharing!

  48. #48
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    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Narcus,

    It would be good to combine all of these back to 2003.

    And yeah, I hope he writes some more. These are the last updates I know about: http://www.perfumestheguide.com/Perf...s/Archive.html
    Last edited by pluran; 2nd September 2011 at 02:14 AM.

  49. #49

    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Quote Originally Posted by pluran View Post
    Narcus,

    It would be good to combine all of these back to 2003.
    It certainly would. I have also been thinking about ways to do it.
    But before publishing anything, I may have to obtain permission from the Folio editors.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  50. #50

    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Narcus and Pluran,

    Thank you for your interest, much appreciated ! I too have been thinking about combining them in a readily accessible form and posting them. This would a) spare the reader the trouble of shuffling through NZZ webpages and b) remind me of what I have written, since I am getting to that dreaded age when one is never sure of repeating oneself :-) The only downside is that this may discourage a publisher from making a little book. I'm still thinking this one through, will let you know asap.

  51. #51
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    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Good to hear Luca. I personally have **copied** all of them and I love reading them now and then...lot's of little tidbits of info.
    "One day I will find the right words, and they will be simple"

    -- Jack Kerouac

  52. #52

    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Quote Originally Posted by luca turin View Post
    Narcus and Pluran,

    Thank you for your interest, much appreciated ! I too have been thinking about combining them in a readily accessible form and posting them. This would a) spare the reader the trouble of shuffling through NZZ webpages and b) remind me of what I have written, since I am getting to that dreaded age when one is never sure of repeating oneself :-) The only downside is that this may discourage a publisher from making a little book. I'm still thinking this one through, will let you know asap.
    Luca, a book would be so much better, of course! And in that case probably two (German and English)? The final German edition as published in their monthly journal is perfect, and I would actually have expected NZZ to also print your Duftnoten in book form.
    I myself was mainly hoping to prepare an index to all perfumes mentioned in Scent Notes. I still enjoy referring to Rien's Index (Excel table, slightly expanded) covering the data contained in both Guides released.
    Last edited by narcus; 7th September 2011 at 03:11 PM. Reason: supplemted
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  53. #53
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    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Thank you lots for sharing all of this.

  54. #54

    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Quote Originally Posted by luca turin View Post
    and b) remind me of what i have written, since i am getting to that dreaded age when one is never sure of repeating oneself :-)
    lol

  55. #55
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    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Quote Originally Posted by luca turin View Post
    Narcus and Pluran,

    Thank you for your interest, much appreciated ! I too have been thinking about combining them in a readily accessible form and posting them. This would a) spare the reader the trouble of shuffling through NZZ webpages and b) remind me of what I have written, since I am getting to that dreaded age when one is never sure of repeating oneself :-) The only downside is that this may discourage a publisher from making a little book. I'm still thinking this one through, will let you know asap.
    Luca,

    I love the idea of a book.

  56. #56
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    Default

    Good to hear from Luca Turin !
    The book idea sounds great .
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/370...o-Profumo-Onda
    For sale. Carnal Flower and Vero Profumo Onda.

  57. #57

    Default

    I'd buy that book
    "Don’t try to be original. Be simple. Be good technically, and if there is something in you, it will come out. ” - Henri Matisse.

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  58. #58

    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    This is what I expect from Basenotes. Where all this threads ended? Thanks for reviving this Pluran.


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