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  1. #1

    Default Serge Lutens revisited

    I was able to obtain some samples from Serge Lutens that I thought I would like and here are my opinions on them so far.

    Serge Noir: I can smell the sap and spice, it smells like it is lacking something. The opening is unpleasant to my nose. Not for me at the moment.

    Vetiver Oriental: I heard a lot of great things about this fragrance and was expecting a lot out of it, but I must say it smells like the rubbery twin of Guerlain vetiver which I think smells like a grandpa. It must be the licorice doing it to my nose,it is darker than most vetivers but a let down for me.

    Cedre: This one is not too bad but still not spectacular to me. I get the wood and cinnamon and perhaps some tuberose. Not bad but the more it stays on the more feminine it gets. Not my type.

    5 o'clock au gingembre: I smell the ginger, and the spice. This one is actually rather nice but a bit too light, reminds me of musc ravageur stripped of the wood, amber, and musc. Probably the best Serge Lutens I have smelled so far but unsure if it is bottle worthy at the moment.

    I think I have concluded that Serge Lutens is not the house for me, even though I recommened anyone getting into niche to try his fragrances because of how unique they are but I just did not find an real appealing one for me. Not to offend any of the people who do like SL.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Serge Lutens revisited

    When I first started sampling Serge Lutens, I hit a string of them that I really hated, starting with Ambre Sultan (I know I am in the minority on that one, it just didn't work on me). For a long time thereafter, I dismissed the house as something I wouldn't like, and looked on their offerings pretty scornfully. I was, however, after a bit, able to find some that I really like, and, consequently, changed my opinion of the entire house drastically.

    Give it more time, and try all you can. You might yet find stuff that works for you. They have a lot of fragrances!
    I don't know much about medicine, but I know what I like. -- S.J. Perelman

  3. #3

    Default Re: Serge Lutens revisited

    I know they have large variety, i have tried their best sellers, ambre sultan, cherqui,etc. I have not been able to find the one for me, i have given them a lot of chances. It can be frustrating. I appreciate the advice. I will have to keep checking I guess.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Serge Lutens revisited

    Have you tried Gris Clair?

  5. #5

    Default Re: Serge Lutens revisited

    Quote Originally Posted by DavidBond007 View Post
    I think I have concluded that Serge Lutens is not the house for me, even though I recommened anyone getting into niche to try his fragrances because of how unique they are but I just did not find an real appealing one for me. Not to offend any of the people who do like SL.
    Well, I don't really like one of the above. But since you don't like Ambre Sultan, Chergui... either, SL may not be for you. All I could recommend and appreciate most, in fact, is within the Paris/Europe Exclusives.
    I recommend Cuir Mauresque being the Export one for this year (available by the end of the year) - it's a controversial one, but many think a great leather. Have you tried Fumerie Turque or Borneo 1834 BTW? These are last guesses, I think Anyway, there are so many other houses...

  6. #6

    Default Re: Serge Lutens revisited

    Quote Originally Posted by Trebor View Post
    Have you tried Gris Clair?
    yes

  7. #7

    Default Re: Serge Lutens revisited

    Quote Originally Posted by Larimar View Post
    Well, I don't really like one of the above. But since you don't like Ambre Sultan, Chergui... either, SL may not be for you. All I could recommend and appreciate most, in fact, is within the Paris/Europe Exclusives.
    I recommend Cuir Mauresque being the Export one for this year (available by the end of the year) - it's a controversial one, but many think a great leather. Have you tried Fumerie Turque or Borneo 1834 BTW? These are last guesses, I think Anyway, there are so many other houses...
    those 3 i have not, very hard to obtain i hope i can snag some later.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Serge Lutens revisited

    DB007, you know what you like, but it's fun to try new things. The offerings from this house are of a rather narrow aesthetic and certainly not for everyone.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Serge Lutens revisited

    All you needs is the biggest bottle of MKK. Just spray it profusely over your body and clothes, and when all the dogs, deer, and assorted farm animals in the neighborhood are chasing you to hump your leg, you will be looked upon in awe.

  10. #10

    Default Re: Serge Lutens revisited

    I have the same problem, tried about 10 different SL fragrances but can't even find one i sort of like so far.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Serge Lutens revisited

    I appreciate all the advice and help. I will try again and see if I can find something for me.

  12. #12

    Default Re: Serge Lutens revisited

    If you haven't tried it already, give Arabie a go - very similar to Opium pour Homme but better. Apart from the other recommendations, I think the only other solution would be to visit the boutique when you're next in Paris, as there may be an exclusive you'll fall in love with.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Serge Lutens revisited

    Quote Originally Posted by Trebor View Post
    If you haven't tried it already, give Arabie a go - very similar to Opium pour Homme but better. Apart from the other recommendations, I think the only other solution would be to visit the boutique when you're next in Paris, as there may be an exclusive you'll fall in love with.
    i did and i thought it was ok but nothing special.

  14. #14

    Default Re: Serge Lutens revisited

    SL > Creed

  15. #15

    Default Re: Serge Lutens revisited

    How about Ambre Sultan and Chergui? Or Daim Blond?

    Fille en Aiguilles smells like of a church incense. Quite interesting to smell.

  16. #16

    Default Re: Serge Lutens revisited

    Looking at your wardrobe, I think it seems that you like designer and Creed fragrances. Unfortunately, not many SL fragrances would fit the mold since they tend to be heavy sweet scents. I'd have thought Gris Clair would suit you, but you didn't like that as well.

    As someone mentioned, you might want to try MKK, since you do like Kuoros. MKK is a lot heavier on the animalic though, but the opening is absolutely gorgeous with that slight hint of rose. The resultant is something that isn't too syrupy, so you might enjoy it.

  17. #17

    Default Re: Serge Lutens revisited

    I like MKK and Kouros but I really don't see any similarities between them besides the fact that they seem to provoke Love/Hate-reviews.

  18. #18
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    Default Re: Serge Lutens revisited

    Try their 'lighter' offerings like Douce Amere. But if you feel 5 O'Clock au Gingembre too light then maybe this line does not really fit in with your preferred style. It happens.

  19. #19

    Default Re: Serge Lutens revisited

    Quote Originally Posted by supperman View Post
    Looking at your wardrobe, I think it seems that you like designer and Creed fragrances. Unfortunately, not many SL fragrances would fit the mold since they tend to be heavy sweet scents. I'd have thought Gris Clair would suit you, but you didn't like that as well.

    As someone mentioned, you might want to try MKK, since you do like Kuoros. MKK is a lot heavier on the animalic though, but the opening is absolutely gorgeous with that slight hint of rose. The resultant is something that isn't too syrupy, so you might enjoy it.
    +1.

  20. #20

    Default Re: Serge Lutens revisited

    I would just suggest that one needn't like SL. I don't particularly. As Kevin Guyer says above, "The offerings from this house are of a rather narrow aesthetic and certainly not for everyone." After trying lots of them, I just conclude that they are not for me. It seems that everything SL makes has that SL house note (someone described it as a 'fruitcake' note, IIRC) that I quite dislike.

  21. #21

    Default Re: Serge Lutens revisited

    Fumerie Turque is definitely worth checking out. Most of the SL lineup didn't work for me, either. But I do like Chergui and Fumerie Turque.

  22. #22

    Default Re: Serge Lutens revisited

    Quote Originally Posted by DavidBond007 View Post
    I was able to obtain some samples from Serge Lutens that I thought I would like and here are my opinions on them so far.

    Serge Noir: I can smell the sap and spice, it smells like it is lacking something. The opening is unpleasant to my nose. Not for me at the moment.

    Vetiver Oriental: I heard a lot of great things about this fragrance and was expecting a lot out of it, but I must say it smells like the rubbery twin of Guerlain vetiver which I think smells like a grandpa. It must be the licorice doing it to my nose,it is darker than most vetivers but a let down for me.

    Cedre: This one is not too bad but still not spectacular to me. I get the wood and cinnamon and perhaps some tuberose. Not bad but the more it stays on the more feminine it gets. Not my type.

    5 o'clock au gingembre: I smell the ginger, and the spice. This one is actually rather nice but a bit too light, reminds me of musc ravageur stripped of the wood, amber, and musc. Probably the best Serge Lutens I have smelled so far but unsure if it is bottle worthy at the moment.

    I think I have concluded that Serge Lutens is not the house for me, even though I recommened anyone getting into niche to try his fragrances because of how unique they are but I just did not find an real appealing one for me. Not to offend any of the people who do like SL.
    I cannot see a relationship between Five O Clock and Musc Ravageur. While I agree that Five o Clock has a spiced ginger aroma, the vanilla on the base doesn`t remind me off Musc Ravageur. Five O Clock has a kind of gingerbread aroma on me. It`s not that light, if you apply it liberally it`s great on colder days too.

    Serge Noire is a little bit scaring at first. The saffron note at the opening it`s big and the load of incense, clove and cinnamon just lend it to a dark direction. I love it, but find a little bit hard to wear.

    Cedre is like you said, more of tuberose than of cedar. Is a little bit misleading i think, althoug is a quite nice tuberose scent with some woods.

    I disagree that vetiver oriental smells like grandpa, although it has a more mature aura that some may not like. It`s a green, earthy vetiver married to a soft cream nutty aroma, that may seem heavier at first but wears light as the scent fades on skin.

    I have an impression that the lutens that you would like may be Un Bois Sepia. It`s a shame that it`s on the exclusive line and the export version is expensive and a little bit hard to find. If you find it to try, don`t hesitate.

  23. #23

    Default Re: Serge Lutens revisited

    Quote Originally Posted by supperman View Post
    Looking at your wardrobe, I think it seems that you like designer and Creed fragrances. Unfortunately, not many SL fragrances would fit the mold since they tend to be heavy sweet scents. I'd have thought Gris Clair would suit you, but you didn't like that as well.

    As someone mentioned, you might want to try MKK, since you do like Kuoros. MKK is a lot heavier on the animalic though, but the opening is absolutely gorgeous with that slight hint of rose. The resultant is something that isn't too syrupy, so you might enjoy it.
    MKK is the lutens that i most hate. It`s smells to me like sweat and moldy woods being burnt. It`s quite a surprise that this one is so popular here in basenotes.

  24. #24

    Default Re: Serge Lutens revisited

    I am falling out of love with kouros so i do not think i will like mkk, i have tried ambre sultan and cherqui and did not like either. I guess his style is not for me, i am stil trying to give the house one more chance.I do not think you can compare sl to creed, they are both very different houses with very different styles it is like comparing apples to oranges.

  25. #25

    Default Re: Serge Lutens revisited

    If you haven't tried Chene yet, I would suggest it.

  26. #26

    Default Re: Serge Lutens revisited

    Quote Originally Posted by DavidBond007 View Post
    Vetiver Oriental: I heard a lot of great things about this fragrance and was expecting a lot out of it, but I must say it smells like the rubbery twin of Guerlain vetiver
    Wow we must have verrrrrry different skin responses. On my skin - I get nothing even resembling rubber or Guerlain Vetiver!

  27. #27

    Default Re: Serge Lutens revisited

    the only fragrance which you may like would be L'Eau. it's the only scent from this line which doesnt smell like a typical lutens release. however, the quality is still there.

    you may also want to try MKK. To my nose, one of the best Oriental's out there. also, it's nothing scary as the reviews may point it out to be.

  28. #28

    Default Re: Serge Lutens revisited

    I tried Chene after reading some good things about it. I thought that there was indeed some really nice oak there. Unfortunately, lurking right behind that was the standard SL fruitcake.

  29. #29

    Default Re: Serge Lutens revisited

    Quote Originally Posted by fsface View Post
    All you needs is the biggest bottle of MKK. Just spray it profusely over your body and clothes, and when all the dogs, deer, and assorted farm animals in the neighborhood are chasing you to hump your leg, you will be looked upon in awe.
    That was funny!
    John aka Easykiller

  30. #30

    Default Re: Serge Lutens revisited

    Quote Originally Posted by gmb View Post
    I tried Chene after reading some good things about it. I thought that there was indeed some really nice oak there. Unfortunately, lurking right behind that was the standard SL fruitcake.
    Really? I own Chêne and find it to be completely dry, down to its last breath even.

  31. #31

    Default Re: Serge Lutens revisited

    Quote Originally Posted by neal View Post
    Wow we must have verrrrrry different skin responses. On my skin - I get nothing even resembling rubber or Guerlain Vetiver!
    yea i get a rubbery smell, must be the licorice or something but it does not smell that great on me.

  32. #32

    Default Re: Serge Lutens revisited

    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin Guyer View Post
    Really? I own Chêne and find it to be completely dry, down to its last breath even.
    Different skin chemistries, I guess.
    A lot of things seem to go too sweet on me. I like my HdP 1740, but if I go a bit too heavy, my girlfriend says the drydown smells like maple syrup.

  33. #33

    Default Re: Serge Lutens revisited

    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin Guyer View Post
    Really? I own Chêne and find it to be completely dry, down to its last breath even.
    I agree with you. For me it is a smell I love, but it tires me after a day.

  34. #34

    Default Re: Serge Lutens revisited

    Quote Originally Posted by scentsitivity View Post
    I agree with you. For me it is a smell I love, but it tires me after a day.
    Chêne seems to have one point to make: OAK!, and it makes it over and over. I love it, but repetition is one of my pleasures.

  35. #35

    Default Re: Serge Lutens revisited

    Yes, it sounds like Lutens isn't the house for you! I agree that there is no reason you have to like it, and there's no sense in you trying to make it happen.

    But I would like to throw out another angle. I had a look at your wardrobe and noticed it contained only male oriented fragrances and some easily worn unisex fragrances, so this may be a non-starter. But if you have no objection you might check out the Lutens florals. They are very good and have a different character than the fragrances being described here. You don't appear to be interested in strongly floral perfumes, but you might find these more likable than the rest of the Lutens line.

  36. #36

    Default Re: Serge Lutens revisited

    Those are the least talked about releases from Serge Lutens. You might want to try Chergui or Iris Silver Mist which are outstanding works of art. Though, judging by your wardrobe favorites this house might not be for you.

  37. #37

    Default Re: Serge Lutens revisited

    Quote Originally Posted by noggs View Post
    Yes, it sounds like Lutens isn't the house for you! I agree that there is no reason you have to like it, and there's no sense in you trying to make it happen.

    But I would like to throw out another angle. I had a look at your wardrobe and noticed it contained only male oriented fragrances and some easily worn unisex fragrances, so this may be a non-starter. But if you have no objection you might check out the Lutens florals. They are very good and have a different character than the fragrances being described here. You don't appear to be interested in strongly floral perfumes, but you might find these more likable than the rest of the Lutens line.
    I am not much of a flower guy i have realized, except green irish tweed that is not even a real floral.

  38. #38

    Default Re: Serge Lutens revisited

    Someone sent me a sample of Un Lys recently. I am normally not interested in florals even slightly, but I really like it and it works well on me. Noggs' suggestion may be a good one.
    I don't know much about medicine, but I know what I like. -- S.J. Perelman

  39. #39

    Default Re: Serge Lutens revisited

    Quote Originally Posted by DavidBond007 View Post
    Serge Noir: I can smell the sap and spice, it smells like it is lacking something. The opening is unpleasant to my nose. Not for me at the moment..
    To my nose, Serge Noire doesn't even begin to show its potential - doesn't even become Serge Noire - until roughly two hours on skin. I realize that that alone may make it a dealbreaker, but after that two hours it's _so_ glorious that I'd strongly recommend trying it again, maybe as your only fragrance one day.

    And once I knew how wonderful it was going to be, I learned to like the thin, sour opening because I could smell the drydown coming.

    And I join the advice to keep trying. I keep saying that I like perhaps one out of ten Serge Lutens fragrances, but I love those so much that Lutens is one of my favorite houses. To jump over to the crazy floral side, you could give Tubereuse Criminelle a try - tuberose and gasoline/mothballs. I love it. Yeah, I'm a girl, but I still wouldn't call it a feminine.

  40. #40

    Default Re: Serge Lutens revisited

    It's absolutely normal that you could simply not fall in love with any of the offerings from a particular house. Happens to us all now and then.

    On the flip side, consider the rave reviews, and consider the respect that the house has earned in general amongst fragrance enthusiasts (not an easy thing to do). So, it would be a good idea to give it a break and revisit the house at a later time.

    Who knows what would happen then - may be you'll actually like something. Now don't lose your sleep over it. And don't try anything more from their line immediately. Because no matter how hard you try, you now have an "opinion" on them. Give it the time before you try something from them again, and do it with an open mind when you do.

    My opinion about the house is that they offer some really high quality fragrances, and, in general, they are VERY unique in what they offer.

  41. #41

    Default Re: Serge Lutens revisited

    Quote Originally Posted by HammerFist View Post
    It's absolutely normal that you could simply not fall in love with any of the offerings from a particular house........don't try anything more from their line immediately.........no matter how hard you try, you now have an "opinion" on them. Give it the time before you try something from them again..........
    Sage advice.
    DB007, from reading so many of your posts it is quite clear that you're a big Creed fan. Over the years I've noticed that Creed fans don't make the best Lutens fans; the two houses are aesthetic polar opposites. Creed is house that is based in moderation and tradition, while Serge Lutens is all about exoticism and excess. When Count Serge tries to go all clean, fresh and modern, he ends up with an excessive, over-the-top, whacked-out version of Gendarme. It's quite possible that the entire Serge Lutens, heavy, exaggerated, more-is-more aesthetic will start to look very dated in a few more years. Creed will always be Creed.

  42. #42

    Default Re: Serge Lutens revisited

    I've only started getting into this house recently. Fumerie Turque was my first sample, and I wasn't crazy about it. I've gotten to try Chergui, finally, and I like it. However, it's quite sweet which is unusual because the scent seems dry and thin. I see a good deal of sweetness as being warranted in a thick, syrupy fragrance and gourmands. This doesn't really strike me as either of those. If it was toned down a bit, I'd be a HUGE fan. Now I'm eager to try Chêne. Living in the woods my whole life, this sounds like it could be pretty evocative.
    “Love is when a girl puts on perfume and a boy puts on shaving cologne and they go out and smell each other.”
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  43. #43

    Default Re: Serge Lutens revisited

    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin Guyer View Post
    Sage advice.
    DB007, from reading so many of your posts it is quite clear that you're a big Creed fan. Over the years I've noticed that Creed fans don't make the best Lutens fans; the two houses are aesthetic polar opposites. Creed is house that is based in moderation and tradition, while Serge Lutens is all about exoticism and excess. When Count Serge tries to go all clean, fresh and modern, he ends up with an excessive, over-the-top, whacked-out version of Gendarme. It's quite possible that the entire Serge Lutens, heavy, exaggerated, more-is-more aesthetic will start to look very dated in a few more years. Creed will always be Creed.
    +1

    This would also explain why I haven't found many Creeds to my liking.

  44. #44

    Default Re: Serge Lutens revisited

    It's quite possible that the entire Serge Lutens, heavy, exaggerated, more-is-more aesthetic will start to look very dated in a few more years. Creed will always be Creed.
    It's funny i think exactly the contrary.

  45. #45

    Default Re: Serge Lutens revisited

    Quote Originally Posted by jenson View Post
    the only fragrance which you may like would be L'Eau. it's the only scent from this line which doesnt smell like a typical lutens release.
    Apart from that, maybe you could tell us exactly what it is you're expecting from a Lutens - particular notes, conceptual themes, masculine or unisex, sillage, longevity... The more details, the better! It may confirm whether or not this house may have something on offer for you.

  46. #46

    Default Re: Serge Lutens revisited

    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin Guyer View Post
    Sage advice.
    DB007, from reading so many of your posts it is quite clear that you're a big Creed fan. Over the years I've noticed that Creed fans don't make the best Lutens fans; the two houses are aesthetic polar opposites. Creed is house that is based in moderation and tradition, while Serge Lutens is all about exoticism and excess. When Count Serge tries to go all clean, fresh and modern, he ends up with an excessive, over-the-top, whacked-out version of Gendarme. It's quite possible that the entire Serge Lutens, heavy, exaggerated, more-is-more aesthetic will start to look very dated in a few more years. Creed will always be Creed.
    I understand it might be too much of a shock to my nose, the thing is Serge Lutens tends to make very smouldering , burnt smells and I am not a fan of it. I guess I will stick with Creed.

  47. #47

    Default Re: Serge Lutens revisited

    In my case, I -like- some of the "smouldering, burnt smells". There are aspects of Lutens fragrances that I like, and they are certainly well-made, so I would -like- to like them... but there is something too thick and too sweet about the house accord that won't let me.

  48. #48

    Default Re: Serge Lutens revisited

    Quote Originally Posted by Mon-Petit View Post
    It's funny i think exactly the contrary.
    Actually, contrary to what I wrote, I think history will be kind to the creations of Serge Lutens. Both Lutens and Creed have always played it by their own rules and history tends to favor uniqueness over trendiness.

  49. #49

    Default Re: Serge Lutens revisited

    SL is just not the house for me. I don't really care for incense so there you have it. But I don't feel like any less a profumisto because of it!

  50. #50

    Default Re: Serge Lutens revisited

    Quote Originally Posted by blondex199667 View Post
    SL is just not the house for me. I don't really care for incense so there you have it. But I don't feel like any less a profumisto because of it!
    I appreciate the support, I felt I was the only one who was not a fan of SL I tried many times but they are not agreeing with my nose.

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