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  1. #1

    Question Serge Lutens Gris Clair: the anti-Lutens, Lutens?

    Thanks to a generous Basenotes member, who sent me a sample of this masterpiece, I'm wearing Gris Clair again. After 2 days, I 'm convinced that this is my favorite Lutens fragrance. My question is: is this really a Lutens? Didn't someone else besides Sheldrake do this one? It is so different than his typical syrups.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Serge Lutens Gris Clair: the anti-Lutens, Lutens?

    I agree. It is such a sharp, almost fresh, lavender. Very distinguished. I love it too.
    Top 10 (not in order): Dunhill 1934, Dunhill Edition, Terre d'Hermes, Rive Gauche, Habit Rouge, Guerlain Vetiver, Knize Ten, Bois du Portugal, Vintage Tabarome, Green Irish Tweed

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  3. #3

    Default Re: Serge Lutens Gris Clair: the anti-Lutens, Lutens?

    Some other anti-Lutens lutens (all of which I like more than the Lutens lutens):

    Encens et Lavande
    Iris Silver Mist (perfumer: Maurice Roucel)
    MKK

    I havent tried Rousse, but from the sounds of it its an anti-lutens lutens too.
    -

  4. #4

    Default Re: Serge Lutens Gris Clair: the anti-Lutens, Lutens?

    Gris Claire is a masterpiece, and definitely different from other Lutens. It's my favourite fragrance right now.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Serge Lutens Gris Clair: the anti-Lutens, Lutens?

    Rousse is without doubt a anti-Lutens, Lutens.
    Opens predominantly with cinnamon, seems to be quite long lasting.

    Quote Originally Posted by zztopp View Post
    Some other anti-Lutens lutens (all of which I like more than the Lutens lutens):

    Encens et Lavande
    Iris Silver Mist (perfumer: Maurice Roucel)
    MKK

    I havent tried Rousse, but from the sounds of it its an anti-lutens lutens too.

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Serge Lutens Gris Clair: the anti-Lutens, Lutens?

    Rousse is Cinnamon on steroids. If you've ever walked past a Cin-A-Bun store in the mall you have an idea of it's sillage.

  7. #7

    Wink Re: Serge Lutens Gris Clair: the anti-Lutens, Lutens?

    Quote Originally Posted by fredricktoo View Post
    Rousse is Cinnamon on steroids. If you've ever walked past a Cin-A-Bun store in the mall you have an idea of it's sillage.
    I think this qualifies Rousse as a Lutens' Lutens!

  8. #8

    Default Re: Serge Lutens Gris Clair: the anti-Lutens, Lutens?

    Could someone give me a brief description of what a Lutens should smell like and why Gris Clair and Rousse etc are "anti-Lutens"

  9. #9

    Default Re: Serge Lutens Gris Clair: the anti-Lutens, Lutens?

    Quote Originally Posted by rompip View Post
    Could someone give me a brief description of what a Lutens should smell like and why Gris Clair and Rousse etc are "anti-Lutens"
    Serge Lutens is known for a sweet benzoin-honey-amber accord that's present to varying degrees in most of his fragrances. While that may sound cliche, it's actually done in an unusual way, and it's amazing (if you're into that kind of thing). Rousse and Gris Claire just don't have as much of that certain accord type, making them stand out more in the line.

  10. #10

    Default Re: Serge Lutens Gris Clair: the anti-Lutens, Lutens?

    Gris Clair is such a cool fragrance. Lutens are usually warm and sultry. Many of them take a single note and screw around with it by juxtaposing the unexpected, in this way Gris Clair is very much a Lutens - lavender juxtaposed to ashes. But, it is the most unusal of all the Lutens for not using an oriental approach.
    Last edited by Kevin Guyer; 26th April 2007 at 05:45 AM.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Serge Lutens Gris Clair: the anti-Lutens, Lutens?

    Lutens has done a number of "cold" scents, and Gris Clair is my favorite by far of those. It's very Lutens, just the flip side.

  12. #12

    Default Re: Serge Lutens Gris Clair: the anti-Lutens, Lutens?

    Quote Originally Posted by rompip View Post
    Could someone give me a brief description of what a Lutens should smell like and why Gris Clair and Rousse etc are "anti-Lutens"
    I think the Lutens Syrup Theory suffers from oversimplification. In addition to the perfumes mentioned to correct that picture - how can one forget the many beautiful florals and citrus groves? That makes four different lines already, and a closer look ( if someone really knows all 38 frags listed) might reveal some more. It is not Serge Lutens' fault if (within BN) mainly his Orientals are being discussed. Of course they achieved particular attention because they are rather close to Arabic traditions. European people nowadays have taken more of friendly interest in the Middle East. Almost all of these Eaux are early EDP, another plus with his Jasmin and Rose frags! I feel grateful for that kind of syrup.
    Last edited by narcus; 26th April 2007 at 09:54 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi č un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  13. #13

    Wink Re: Serge Lutens Gris Clair: the anti-Lutens, Lutens?

    Quote Originally Posted by narcus View Post
    I think the Lutens Syrup Theory suffers from oversimplification. In addition to the perfumes mentioned to correct that picture - how can one forget the many beautiful florals and citrus groves? That makes four different lines already, and a closer look ( if someone really knows all 38 frags listed) might reveal some more. It is not Serge Lutens' fault if (within BN) mainly his Orientals are being discussed. Of course they achieved particular attention because they are rather close to Arabic traditions. European people nowadays have taken more of friendly interest in the Middle East. Almost all of these Eaux are early EDP, another plus with his Jasmin and Rose frags! I feel grateful for that kind of syrup.
    I agree with you about the danger of over-simplification, but I still think Gris Clair stands on its own amongst all the other Lutens/Sheldrake/Roucel creations. As I said before, I feel its presence is extremely cool to the nose, something very un-typical for a Lutens. Btw, I worship at the Lutens altar, that is, when I'm not praying to St. Guerlain.

  14. #14
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    Default Re: Serge Lutens Gris Clair: the anti-Lutens, Lutens?

    There are at least a couple of other scents besides Gris Clair in the Lutens line that do not lean too heavily on the supersweet basenotes, in particular Sa Majeste la Rose, Daim Blond and, to some extent, Mandarine-Mandarin and Chypre Rouge. I agree that it's the big, sweet orientals like Chergui, Fumerie Turque, and Ambre Sultan that get all the attention, and its a shame that some of Sheldrake and Lutens's cooler, drier scents don't get as much press. Just look at which scents in this post have parsed links!
    Last edited by Off-Scenter; 26th April 2007 at 06:58 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  15. #15

    Default Re: Serge Lutens Gris Clair: the anti-Lutens, Lutens?

    I associate incense/smoke notes to many of the Lutens but L'eau by Serge Lutens is very different to my nose and I find it very fresh and wearable.

  16. #16

    Default Re: Serge Lutens Gris Clair: the anti-Lutens, Lutens?

    With ISM, Rose de nuit didn't be designed by Sheldrake (Gilles Romey).

    Gris clair is the interpretation of a natural phenomen in Marocco, Atlas mountains. When volcans are in eruption, the lava is drying slowly, and even after an eruption the lavanda can grow on burned layer (lavanda pierce the dried ash of lava).

  17. #17

    Default Re: Serge Lutens Gris Clair: the anti-Lutens, Lutens?

    Rousse is a dry, woody, relatively cool cinnamon. It is not sweet or sticky or gourmand at all.

    I would also place Borneo 1834 in this category. While it has some sweetness, its style has more in common with Rousse than with fragrances like Arabie or Cedre or Fumerie Turque and others that tend more towards the fruity and syrupy.

    I'm a big fan of Lutens, from the syrupy to the floral to the drier, perhaps leaner ones like we are discussing here. The only one I haven't come to terms with is L'Eau. Having worn it a couple of times already, I can't say that I like it much.

  18. #18

    Default Re: Serge Lutens Gris Clair: the anti-Lutens, Lutens?

    I've always considered Gris Clair a clear Lutens fragrance because I associate Lutens with strong sweet scents. With Douce Amere, Gris Clair has a lightness that is unique from Chergui or Fumerie Turque or Chene, but they are ALL sweet, and there's nothing subtle about the sweetness either. Gris Clair is so sweet that it's sweeter than even a vanilla tonka bean fragrance like Shalimar and Bvlgari Black.

    But this doesn't mean I don't like them I just adore all my super sweet Lutens. The Lutens I'd tried that I'd consider 'anti-Lutens' would probably be the florals like Silver Iris Mist, which is a real stark contrast to the other fragrances, but still maintaining the 'thickness'.

  19. #19

    Default Re: Serge Lutens Gris Clair: the anti-Lutens, Lutens?

    L' eau b Serge & Gris Clair are non-typical Serge Lutens IMO. Typical Serge Lutens tend to be heavy as mentioned above.
    Last edited by hedonist222; 12th October 2010 at 03:36 AM.

  20. #20

    Default Re: Serge Lutens Gris Clair: the anti-Lutens, Lutens?

    Gris Clair is one of my favorites, too. (Kevin, we share a birthday AND a few favorite fragrances, I'm realizing!). The big bad syrupy Lutens style is not my cup of tea, though. I do enjoy Chergui, and I could see wearing Arabie once a year or so. Gris Clair is a real joy, though. I love its cool clarity.

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