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  1. #1

    Default Penhaligon's Sartorial - first wearing and review

    It would be fair to say that I have been waiting for this one all year since I first heard whispers of it's development back in January - actually it may have been earlier, thinking about it.

    I was then privy to three early versions of the fragrance being developed by Betrand Duchaufour, each of them playing with variations on the theme of scents evoked and found in a Saville Row tailor's workroom at Norton & Sons. One version, indicated only by a white dot on the sample vial was exquisite, it was where I very much hoped the fragrance would evolve.

    And so the waiting through the late Spring and the Summer began, by September my anticipation was unbearable.

    Today, my torture came to an end and I was finally able to appreciate Sartorial in it's full glory.

    Was it worth the wait?

    Oh yes.

    I'll start with the pyramid.

    Head Notes: Aldehydes, Ozonic Effect, Metallic Effect, Violet Leaf, Neroli, Cardamom, Black Pepper, Fresh Ginger

    Heart Notes: Beeswax, Cyclamen, Linden Blossom, Lavender, Heather

    Base Notes: Gurgum Wood, Patchouli, Myrrh, Cedarwood, Tonka Bean, Oakmoss, White Musk, Honey Effect, Old Wood Effect, Vanilla, Amber.

    An astonishing list you might think. And you'd be right, it is.

    The overall result though is breath-taking. Quite literally. Some of these accords escape out of the bottle like a flock of startled birds at a farmer's shotgun. The metallic and ozonic edges fly past the nostrils in a fluttering fury of fantastical imagery. It's a sensory kaleidescope, the cardomom and ginger and peppery edges, lifted by florals Cyclamen and Linden blossom - but they hint at one of the true characteristics of Sartorial - warmth.

    It's a very clever allusion really. Duchaufour wanted to create a fragrance that evoked a tailor's workroom. Close your eyes and picture the scene. Bolts of cloth in stacks, tailor's scissors, needles, beeswax, chalk, the edgy metal of sewing machines. Edges and textures, warmth and coldness all juxtaposing each other in a common cause.

    This is Sartorial. Where there are edges there are softening contrasts.

    Duchaufour wanted to create a fragrance that throughout featured the honeyed warmth of beeswax and found counterpoints to it that lift and hint to their existence as the fragrance develops. Yes, you can detect the lavender, but where in Caron's Pour Un Homme, the lavender is a crudely cut bouquet thrust to the nostrils, here, the lavender is so beautifully blended with the softer sweetness of heather they are almost seamless in their co-existence.

    I am currently wearing Sartorial in three different areas of the backs of my hands and arms in different stages of its development. In each stage it is honestly intruiging, captivating and arresting.

    The drydown is lovely, imagine an enfolding warmth of amber and patchouli, something akin to the last dying breaths of Givenchy Gentleman, but with the elegance of Chergui or a softer, mellower Ambre Sultan with just a hint of wood.

    It ticks other boxes too. Projection is very good and, unlike others in the Penhaligon's line like the lovely but short lived Opus 1870 or Endymion, longevity is excellent.

    Is it elegant? Yes. Is it the scent of a refined gentleman? Yes. Does it stand up with the best of the Penhaligon's range? Yes. Has Duchaufour achieved everything he set out to do? Oh yes, and then some.

    Is it beautiful? Oh God yes.

    This is a modern classic in the making.


    (Thanks to all at Penhaligon's Covent Garden for allowing us this pre-launch insight)
    Last edited by HDS1963; 13th October 2010 at 08:18 PM. Reason: Spelling!
    In a world where people smell bad, it is the personal responsibility of every Basenoter to improve the world one SotD at a time...

  2. #2

    Default Re: Penhaligon's Sartorial - first wearing and review

    Sounds like one of the most interesting fragrances of the year.

    Thanks for the thoughtful review!

  3. #3

    Default Re: Penhaligon's Sartorial - first wearing and review

    Thank you for this!

    Now I simply must try this scent.
    "No sweet perfume ever tortured me more than this." Desert Rose by Sting and Cheb Mami, Album 1999.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Penhaligon's Sartorial - first wearing and review

    How soon will this be hitting their website then?

  5. #5

    Default Re: Penhaligon's Sartorial - first wearing and review

    Must test.
    ASAP.

    Their Anthology Eau De Cologne & Eau De Vervaine were both unusual and impressive, for such simple scent names, each with unexpectedly new/classy/intriguing profiles. With that steam, and Duchafour, this has the makings of something quite good. Fingers crossed for Penhaligon's making a huge step back towards the limelight.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Penhaligon's Sartorial - first wearing and review

    Quote Originally Posted by DULLAH View Post
    Must test.
    ASAP.
    My friend, it is lovely. It really is.
    In a world where people smell bad, it is the personal responsibility of every Basenoter to improve the world one SotD at a time...

  7. #7

    Default Re: Penhaligon's Sartorial - first wearing and review

    I have recently become a big fan of this line and was drooling over trying Sartorial. I received samples from luckyscent last week.
    I must say that it is not for me. It smells dated, and like an updated Brut in a way. Rive Gauche Pour Homme also comes to mind. It did last forever, and gives off the aura off a no-nonsense gentlemen, that over splashed his after shave. The extreme drydown, was a bit dirty on me as well. I absolutely love Endymion, and several others by this line...but Sartorial smells a bit like every other traditional fougere ever released. If this is your genre then get your credit card out. I am averse to smelling like the guy who wears Aqua Velva in large quantities, so I will stick with Endymion for now.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Penhaligon's Sartorial - first wearing and review

    Quote Originally Posted by Jock_With_Scents View Post
    I have recently become a big fan of this line and was drooling over trying Sartorial. I received samples from luckyscent last week.
    I must say that it is not for me. It smells dated, and like an updated Brut in a way. Rive Gauche Pour Homme also comes to mind. It did last forever, and gives off the aura off a no-nonsense gentlemen, that over splashed his after shave. The extreme drydown, was a bit dirty on me as well. I absolutely love Endymion, and several others by this line...but Sartorial smells a bit like every other traditional fougere ever released. If this is your genre then get your credit card out. I am averse to smelling like the guy who wears Aqua Velva in large quantities, so I will stick with Endymion for now.
    If I could find the "draw drop" smilie, I'd be using this now. Sartorial is nothing like a traditional fougere, not at all, it's way more refined and frankly how you can like Endymion and not like this is bewildering to be honest. As for Brut??? It's poles apart.
    In a world where people smell bad, it is the personal responsibility of every Basenoter to improve the world one SotD at a time...

  9. #9

    Default Re: Penhaligon's Sartorial - first wearing and review

    Quote Originally Posted by HDS1963 View Post
    If I could find the "draw drop" smilie, I'd be using this now. Sartorial is nothing like a traditional fougere, not at all, it's way more refined and frankly how you can like Endymion and not like this is bewildering to be honest. As for Brut??? It's poles apart.
    I was extemely upset when I didn't care for it. I was willing myself to find a way to like it, but what I describe is what my nose gets. Obviously your nose perceives something totally different and for that you are lucky!

    You have to understand my aversion to 'dated' smelling fragrances. It is me getting this correlation, hopefully others will not. With Endymion, I don't feel like I am wearing a men's cologne; I do with Sartorial.

    Jealous that it works for you though, and I can't wait to acquire either Opus 1870 or Extract of Limes soon. Love this line.

  10. #10

    Default Re: Penhaligon's Sartorial - first wearing and review

    It just goes to show we all interpret scents differently. I am in fragrance Heaven at the moment, the beeswax, patchouli mix and subtle warmth of vanilla and amber in the far drydown are just sooooo good. The thing I would say, having tried some of the sample vials I also have is that they don't bring the best out of the fragrance the way the atomiser bottles do. Which is why I wish Penhaligon's would switch to atomiser samples.
    In a world where people smell bad, it is the personal responsibility of every Basenoter to improve the world one SotD at a time...

  11. #11

    Default Re: Penhaligon's Sartorial - first wearing and review

    On a separate note, Opus 1870 is beautiful, but it just doesn't last or project the way I would like it to. Same with Endymion which is a fantastic fragrance. I've been pushing to persuade them to produce an EDP of it, because to my nose it warrants it. Extract of Limes is a great fragrance, very creamy in its composition resulting in a really smooth and rich drydown. I prefer it to the Trumpers equivalent.
    In a world where people smell bad, it is the personal responsibility of every Basenoter to improve the world one SotD at a time...

  12. #12

    Default Re: Penhaligon's Sartorial - first wearing and review

    Quote Originally Posted by Jock_With_Scents View Post
    I have recently become a big fan of this line and was drooling over trying Sartorial. I received samples from luckyscent last week.
    I must say that it is not for me. It smells dated, and like an updated Brut in a way. Rive Gauche Pour Homme also comes to mind. It did last forever, and gives off the aura off a no-nonsense gentlemen, that over splashed his after shave. The extreme drydown, was a bit dirty on me as well. I absolutely love Endymion, and several others by this line...but Sartorial smells a bit like every other traditional fougere ever released. If this is your genre then get your credit card out. I am averse to smelling like the guy who wears Aqua Velva in large quantities, so I will stick with Endymion for now.
    As a lover of this line myself, Eau De Cologne, opus 1870, and Castile being my favorites.......When you mention Brut and Rive Gauche, do you mean Sartorial shares the tart, "Tonic" type notes Brut shares so prevalently with Acqua Di Parma's Assoluta, and also shares with Penhaligon's Racquets??, or do you mean in the soapiness/shaving cream type that Brut, Rive Gauche and R&G's Open, all share? Perhaps you tried the sample vial of Racquets instead of Sartorial? As I have always found Racquets to be Brut-like.

    Also, would you say the Beeswax and Vanilla make Sartorial alot smoother and creamier than Brut/Rive Gauche/Racquets, or is it still sharp/tonic-like in it's overall profile?

  13. #13
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    Default Re: Penhaligon's Sartorial - first wearing and review

    Sounds exciting. I haven't smelled any of Duchaufour's work for Penhaligon's and this sounds like a wild-ride. Although the metallic notes have me a bit disconcerted. Nonetheless, I'm excited to try it.

  14. #14

    Default Re: Penhaligon's Sartorial - first wearing and review

    Quote Originally Posted by DULLAH View Post
    As a lover of this line myself, Eau De Cologne, opus 1870, and Castile being my favorites.......When you mention Brut and Rive Gauche, do you mean Sartorial shares the tart, "Tonic" type notes Brut shares so prevalently with Acqua Di Parma's Assoluta, and also shares with Penhaligon's Racquets??, or do you mean in the soapiness/shaving cream type that Brut, Rive Gauche and R&G's Open, all share? Perhaps you tried the sample vial of Racquets instead of Sartorial? As I have always found Racquets to be Brut-like.

    Also, would you say the Beeswax and Vanilla make Sartorial alot smoother and creamier than Brut/Rive Gauche/Racquets, or is it still sharp/tonic-like in it's overall profile?
    The soapiness/shaving cream type is what I got. I have tried Raquets before and got a cologne vibe from it...but this was Sartorial I tried for sure. Yes Sartorial is creamy, and it has some clever twists (ozone, beeswax...), but the underlying bones of the fragrance were strong and clear for me. I quite like the opening, but my heart sank shortly thereafter. If you are not offended by traditional fougere style, you may well love this.

  15. #15

    Default Re: Penhaligon's Sartorial - first wearing and review

    I think what separates this from traditional fougeres is the way the fragrance mutates throughout, with the constant sweetened warmth of the beeswax throughout.

    The other thing which I particularly admire is the smooth transitions and how well it's blended throughout.

    An example of the opposite to me would be 1 Million by Paco Rabanne which is a clunky fragrance as it shifts down to the drydown. Sartorial is smoother than purified honey down velvet.
    In a world where people smell bad, it is the personal responsibility of every Basenoter to improve the world one SotD at a time...

  16. #16

    Default Re: Penhaligon's Sartorial - first wearing and review

    I have to admit-- I've never smelled a single scent from this line. HDS1963, your beautiful review made me want to grab a bottle ASAP. Jock/W/S, your nose is one that I trust quite a bit to be similar to mine, so I'll be sure not to get weak and buy it blind.

    So, I'm jogging in place at the crossroads...

    I have to sample this.

  17. #17

    Default Re: Penhaligon's Sartorial - first wearing and review

    How does it compare to English Fern? I assume there will be a lot of distinction, Penhaligon's would not go to all this trouble just to create a variant of something they created 100 years ago.

  18. #18

    Default Re: Penhaligon's Sartorial - first wearing and review

    Quote Originally Posted by andym72 View Post
    How does it compare to English Fern? I assume there will be a lot of distinction, Penhaligon's would not go to all this trouble just to create a variant of something they created 100 years ago.
    It's nothing like English Fern at all. English Fern is VERY green, this isn't.
    In a world where people smell bad, it is the personal responsibility of every Basenoter to improve the world one SotD at a time...

  19. #19

    Default Re: Penhaligon's Sartorial - first wearing and review

    Thanks for the great review, HDS1963. I've already got a bottle on pre-order from LuckyScent and can't wait for it to arrive. I love smell of beeswax like that used in Anteaus. I once owned a raincoat from the UK that was coated in beeswax and had leather trim. I LOVED the smell of that jacket (which has some great memories linked to it). Might be why I love the beeswax accord.

    On another note (no pun intended), I think the whole concept of Sartorial is very cool. Sure paints a vivid picture.

  20. #20

    Default Re: Penhaligon's Sartorial - first wearing and review

    Quote Originally Posted by MikeNY View Post
    Thanks for the great review, HDS1963. I've already got a bottle on pre-order from LuckyScent and can't wait for it to arrive. I love smell of beeswax like that used in Anteaus. I once owned a raincoat from the UK that was coated in beeswax and had leather trim. I LOVED the smell of that jacket (which has some great memories linked to it). Might be why I love the beeswax accord.

    On another note (no pun intended), I think the whole concept of Sartorial is very cool. Sure paints a vivid picture.
    My pleasure, I keep wondering what smells so good - then realise it's me. It's a compulsive nose to skin fragrance.
    In a world where people smell bad, it is the personal responsibility of every Basenoter to improve the world one SotD at a time...

  21. #21

    Default Re: Penhaligon's Sartorial - first wearing and review

    I gave it an ever so brief test from a tiny sample an SA at Lucky Scent had a couple of weeks ago.

    I've been circling Lucky Scent's Scent Bar like a shark ever since. Think they will have it next week.

    Thanks HDS1963. Been waiting for a nice write up. That "wondering what smells so good" is one of my favorite effects to get from a frag. Looking forward to this.

  22. #22

    Default Re: Penhaligon's Sartorial - first wearing and review

    Great review. I am sorely tempted. . .

  23. #23

    Default Re: Penhaligon's Sartorial - first wearing and review

    This might replace a certain ugly bottle that I have my eye on...
    "No sweet perfume ever tortured me more than this." Desert Rose by Sting and Cheb Mami, Album 1999.

  24. #24

    Default Re: Penhaligon's Sartorial - first wearing and review

    Come on LA - how're you gonna leave us hanging like that - what's it like, whadda YOU think.


    Quote Originally Posted by StylinLA View Post
    I gave it an ever so brief test from a tiny sample an SA at Lucky Scent had a couple of weeks ago.

    I've been circling Lucky Scent's Scent Bar like a shark ever since. Think they will have it next week.

    Thanks HDS1963. Been waiting for a nice write up. That "wondering what smells so good" is one of my favorite effects to get from a frag. Looking forward to this.

  25. #25

    Default Re: Penhaligon's Sartorial - first wearing and review

    Quote Originally Posted by HDS1963 View Post
    It would be fair to say that I have been waiting for this one all year since I first heard whispers of it's development back in January - actually it may have been earlier, thinking about it.
    WOW, you REALLY got into this one. One of the best writeups for any frag. ell, I'm sampling in honor of the review if nothing else.

  26. #26

    Default Re: Penhaligon's Sartorial - first wearing and review

    Thanks for the lovely review. Now I am dying to smell that one!! Magic words: ozonic, metallic, lavender, cardamon, neroli, Ambre Sultan, Chergui ....( I agree about the opus 1870. The longevity was poor, but the scent was very good.)

  27. #27
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    Default Re: Penhaligon's Sartorial - first wearing and review

    Quote Originally Posted by Air View Post
    ( I agree about the opus 1870. The longevity was poor, but the scent was very good.)
    How odd, of the few fragrances i've aquired as a new boy to this fragrant world the one that lasts longest on me (and is my firm favourite) is Opus 1870.

  28. #28

    Default Re: Penhaligon's Sartorial - first wearing and review

    Perfumes are magical! The person I tested Opus on after all ended up with Dior Homme... Duchaufour said in an interview that he was jealous only on one perfumer the one who made Dior Homme, so I chequed it out of course! Now I have to go on a Sartorial quest :-)

  29. #29

    Default Re: Penhaligon's Sartorial - first wearing and review

    Thank you, HDS1963 for a great review. I'm very tempted. I haven't been a Ducahufour fan before but I'm hoping this will change that. It really sounds better than anything I've seen this year.

  30. #30
    Frag Bomb Squadron XVII
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    Default Re: Penhaligon's Sartorial - first wearing and review

    From the list of notes it does appear that Duchafour could have pulled out all the stops and threw everything in except the kitchen sink & bath tub. I gotta try this.

  31. #31

    Default Re: Penhaligon's Sartorial - first wearing and review

    I just ordered a sample of this at Luckyscent and I cant wait to see what this is like. great review!

  32. #32

    Default Re: Penhaligon's Sartorial - first wearing and review

    Quote Originally Posted by SoGent View Post
    Come on LA - how're you gonna leave us hanging like that - what's it like, whadda YOU think.
    Sorry SoGent, I'm not good with brief in-store tests. At the time, it was just coincidence that the SA at Scent Bar had recently been to London and been given a 1ml test vial. The official Lucky Scent tester bottle was not in yet. As such, it was a little smear on a test strip, and I'm not very good an analyzing from that.

    What I smelled, I liked. A lot. I picked up some of the beeswax for sure and it worked for me. Very warm. It was a distinguished and manly smell, but didn't seem to have the usual sort of Penhaligons signature. As the Lucky Scent write up states- it is NOT an aquatic. I believe they threw that into their copy because of the "ozonic note" reference that seems to have spooked some people into thinking this is Pens entry into aquatics.

    It's got a ton of notes and I know Duchafour is maestro, but that kind of range spooks me sometimes. Based on what I smelled, I'd probably buy it.

    Drive by Scent Bar everyday, so when they have it, I'll pop in and give it a better test. Those kinds of "suit and tie" scents are a weakness of mine.

  33. #33

    Default Re: Penhaligon's Sartorial - first wearing and review

    I love beeswax in scents. I think the best use of beeswax in a perfume is Tom Fords Moss Breches. The way he mixed the green notes with t hat buttery beeswax was very impressive. I love it. Cant wait to see how this one works out.

  34. #34

    Default Re: Penhaligon's Sartorial - first wearing and review

    Thanks for the beautifully written review. I look forward to sampling this fragrance!
    +"Do you spray below the waist?"
    +"Success is not the key to happiness. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing,
    you will be successful." - Albert Schweitzer
    +"All blame is a waste of time. No matter how much fault you find with another, and regardless of how much you blame him, it will not change you." - Dr. W. Dyer

  35. #35
    Dreamofgilgamesh's Avatar
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    Default Re: Penhaligon's Sartorial - first wearing and review

    Oh, just in case it's of interest to anyone, i just visited Penhaligon's site and bought a 1.5ml sample for 30/- including postage.

  36. #36

    Default Re: Penhaligon's Sartorial - first wearing and review

    Thanks buddy - just bustin your chops a lil bit. Afterall, you're in the land of Scent Bar
    Gonna call 'em today to make sure they can fire off some samples just to be sure.

    Quote Originally Posted by StylinLA View Post
    Sorry SoGent, I'm not good with brief in-store tests. At the time, it was just coincidence that the SA at Scent Bar had recently been to London and been given a 1ml test vial. The official Lucky Scent tester bottle was not in yet. As such, it was a little smear on a test strip, and I'm not very good an analyzing from that.

    What I smelled, I liked. A lot. I picked up some of the beeswax for sure and it worked for me. Very warm. It was a distinguished and manly smell, but didn't seem to have the usual sort of Penhaligons signature. As the Lucky Scent write up states- it is NOT an aquatic. I believe they threw that into their copy because of the "ozonic note" reference that seems to have spooked some people into thinking this is Pens entry into aquatics.

    It's got a ton of notes and I know Duchafour is maestro, but that kind of range spooks me sometimes. Based on what I smelled, I'd probably buy it.

    Drive by Scent Bar everyday, so when they have it, I'll pop in and give it a better test. Those kinds of "suit and tie" scents are a weakness of mine.

  37. #37

    Default Re: Penhaligon's Sartorial - first wearing and review

    Quote Originally Posted by StylinLA View Post
    Sorry SoGent, I'm not good with brief in-store tests. At the time, it was just coincidence that the SA at Scent Bar had recently been to London and been given a 1ml test vial. The official Lucky Scent tester bottle was not in yet. As such, it was a little smear on a test strip, and I'm not very good an analyzing from that.

    What I smelled, I liked. A lot. I picked up some of the beeswax for sure and it worked for me. Very warm. It was a distinguished and manly smell, but didn't seem to have the usual sort of Penhaligons signature. As the Lucky Scent write up states- it is NOT an aquatic. I believe they threw that into their copy because of the "ozonic note" reference that seems to have spooked some people into thinking this is Pens entry into aquatics.

    It's got a ton of notes and I know Duchafour is maestro, but that kind of range spooks me sometimes. Based on what I smelled, I'd probably buy it.

    Drive by Scent Bar everyday, so when they have it, I'll pop in and give it a better test. Those kinds of "suit and tie" scents are a weakness of mine.
    This just might take over from my interest in the certain Guerlain release. Let the competition begin!
    "No sweet perfume ever tortured me more than this." Desert Rose by Sting and Cheb Mami, Album 1999.

  38. #38

    Default Re: Penhaligon's Sartorial - first wearing and review

    I can't wait to test this.....I was told at my Saks that there will be a Penhaligon's trunk show in the store.....I hope this is true and I hope this scent is in the show (trunk).
    Thanks for the fantastic review and info!!!
    Gary

  39. #39

    Default Re: Penhaligon's Sartorial - first wearing and review

    Quote Originally Posted by G.303 View Post
    I can't wait to test this.....I was told at my Saks that there will be a Penhaligon's trunk show in the store.....I hope this is true and I hope this scent is in the show (trunk).
    Thanks for the fantastic review and info!!!
    Gary
    When is the trunk show, do you know? And which Saks? Thanks.

  40. #40

    Default Re: Penhaligon's Sartorial - first wearing and review

    Just an FYI ... I got an email from Luckyscent saying that my pre order shipped so it looks like it's in stock there now.

  41. #41

    Default Re: Penhaligon's Sartorial - first wearing and review

    I sampled this fragrance yesterday at the Regent Street store, and I'm afraid I don't share the excitement/praise lauded on Sartorial, there is nothing special about it...
    Let your nose be your pilot

  42. #42

    Default Re: Penhaligon's Sartorial - first wearing and review

    Quote Originally Posted by magnnum View Post
    I sampled this fragrance yesterday at the Regent Street store, and I'm afraid I don't share the excitement/praise lauded on Sartorial, there is nothing special about it...
    Well, each to their own.

    I've been living with this fragrance for a week now and my opinion on it remains unchanged.

    It wouldn't be half as interesting a subject if we all agreed on everything.
    In a world where people smell bad, it is the personal responsibility of every Basenoter to improve the world one SotD at a time...

  43. #43

    Default Re: Penhaligon's Sartorial - first wearing and review

    what a passionate review! thumbs up!

  44. #44

    Default Re: Penhaligon's Sartorial - first wearing and review

    Quote Originally Posted by MikeNY View Post
    Just an FYI ... I got an email from Luckyscent saying that my pre order shipped so it looks like it's in stock there now.
    Indeed. I stopped in to Lucky Scent yesterday and grabbed some. Still getting to know it, but I quite like it so far. Right now, it feels like a perfect scent for me. I'll be giving it a regular daily test wearing today. I totally get the "ozonic effect- steam rising from an iron on tweed" in the opening notes. Nicely done. Beeswax gives it a nice warmth. Don't know about longevity in a regular wearing yet, but seems promising. Can't tell about projection yet, but seems like it wears fairly close to skin. Not a sillage monster.

    A nice modern manly scent from Pens and Duchafour.

    Not as formal dressy as I had initially thought. I'll be wearing this a lot this week.

  45. #45

    Default Re: Penhaligon's Sartorial - first wearing and review

    Quote Originally Posted by StylinLA View Post
    Indeed. I stopped in to Lucky Scent yesterday and grabbed some. Still getting to know it, but I quite like it so far. Right now, it feels like a perfect scent for me. I'll be giving it a regular daily test wearing today. I totally get the "ozonic effect- steam rising from an iron on tweed" in the opening notes. Nicely done. Beeswax gives it a nice warmth. Don't know about longevity in a regular wearing yet, but seems promising. Can't tell about projection yet, but seems like it wears fairly close to skin. Not a sillage monster.

    A nice modern manly scent from Pens and Duchafour.

    Not as formal dressy as I had initially thought. I'll be wearing this a lot this week.
    Thank you, StylinLA, for the review. I will be sampling THIS ONE soon!
    "No sweet perfume ever tortured me more than this." Desert Rose by Sting and Cheb Mami, Album 1999.

  46. #46

    Default Re: Penhaligon's Sartorial - first wearing and review

    Quote Originally Posted by Primrose View Post
    Thank you, StylinLA, for the review. I will be sampling THIS ONE soon!
    Give it a try. I like it, but it hasn't slid past HRBC for me yet.

  47. #47

    Default Re: Penhaligon's Sartorial - first wearing and review

    I tried this and was pleasantly surprised with this one! The opening is seriously a blast from the past. I got instant old spice/brut feel. Then it fades into a musty dusty smell reminiscent of what you get in Vintage tabarome. There is definitely a smell in there that gives a sense of a suit factory. Something in this scent smells of fabric in a strange way. Very nice and very different for penhalligons.

  48. #48

    Default Re: Penhaligon's Sartorial - first wearing and review

    Quote Originally Posted by cairomerta View Post
    I tried this and was pleasantly surprised with this one! The opening is seriously a blast from the past. I got instant old spice/brut feel. Then it fades into a musty dusty smell reminiscent of what you get in Vintage tabarome. There is definitely a smell in there that gives a sense of a suit factory. Something in this scent smells of fabric in a strange way. Very nice and very different for penhalligons.
    I think it's a touch of lavender and the "ozonic" effect. Reminds me of a hot iron hitting fabric for sure.

    BTW- there seemed to be some early fears that this was Pens entry into aquatics. Far from it. Much more of a fougere.
    Last edited by StylinLA; 17th October 2010 at 08:34 PM.

  49. #49

    Default Re: Penhaligon's Sartorial - first wearing and review

    Quote Originally Posted by StylinLA View Post
    I think it's a touch of lavender and the "ozonic" effect. Reminds me of a hot iron hitting fabric for sure.

    BTW- there seemed to be some early fears that this was Pens entry into aquatics. Far from it. Much more of a fougere.
    That's the funny thing about this - Penhaligon's themselves want to lump this in with the fougere category, but due to the spice mix in there, it has me heading down a more oriental avenue, with even a chypre element to it with the woods and oakmoss in there.

    What the hell, it all adds up to a really lovely all round fragrance with great longevity.
    In a world where people smell bad, it is the personal responsibility of every Basenoter to improve the world one SotD at a time...

  50. #50

    Default Re: Penhaligon's Sartorial - first wearing and review

    What is the longevity of Sartorial on both skin and clothes?

    Someone enlighten me on this.
    "No sweet perfume ever tortured me more than this." Desert Rose by Sting and Cheb Mami, Album 1999.

  51. #51

    Default Re: Penhaligon's Sartorial - first wearing and review

    Still getting to know it Primrose...

    Seems pretty good longevity on skin, but wears "light" on me; a bit too light for my taste, but it sometimes takes me awhile to get to know a scent. Haven't tried it on cloth.

    Using a scent we both relate to, it is much lighter on me than HRBC.

  52. #52

    Default Re: Penhaligon's Sartorial - first wearing and review

    Quote Originally Posted by Primrose View Post
    What is the longevity of Sartorial on both skin and clothes?

    Someone enlighten me on this.
    I've found it projects well - by no means a sillage monster, but enough to get you noticed in the first couple of hours of wearing. After that you can smell it comfortably from a foot or so away for the next couple of hours.

    Longevity is very good for an EDT a good six hours or more. I would contrast this to something like Aventus which has packed up its bags and gone home after an hour on my skin and I have a fairly normal skin type.
    In a world where people smell bad, it is the personal responsibility of every Basenoter to improve the world one SotD at a time...

  53. #53

    Default Re: Penhaligon's Sartorial - first wearing and review

    Quote Originally Posted by StylinLA View Post
    Still getting to know it Primrose...

    Seems pretty good longevity on skin, but wears "light" on me; a bit too light for my taste, but it sometimes takes me awhile to get to know a scent. Haven't tried it on cloth.

    Using a scent we both relate to, it is much lighter on me than HRBC.
    StylinLA, just bumping the thread to get more impressions of this. What is your final verdict?

    Is this floral in any way, or mostly patchouli in the drydown? (I adore Habit Rouge Beau Cavalier, yes!)
    "No sweet perfume ever tortured me more than this." Desert Rose by Sting and Cheb Mami, Album 1999.

  54. #54

    Default Re: Penhaligon's Sartorial - first wearing and review

    Not very floral at all to me, no. Some lavender. Beeswax. A bit woody. I sure don't get much of the violet. I'm sure the patchouli is there, but for my nose, there are so many notes, it's hard to hang on anything too long.

  55. #55

    Default Re: Penhaligon's Sartorial - first wearing and review

    Thank you, StylinLA and HDS!
    Last edited by Primrose; 26th October 2010 at 03:55 AM.
    "No sweet perfume ever tortured me more than this." Desert Rose by Sting and Cheb Mami, Album 1999.

  56. #56

    Default Re: Penhaligon's Sartorial - first wearing and review

    I agree with JWS, I definitely get the similarities to Rive Gauche, in fact it was the absolute first thing that came to my head. Very barbershoppy, shaving foam and all.
    <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>

    Obsessions of the Moment- Kristiansand EDC, Green Irish Tweed, Zizan

    Granted, we've known each other for some time. It don't take a whole day to recognize sunshine. ~ Common Sense

  57. #57

    Default Re: Penhaligon's Sartorial - first wearing and review

    Upon wearing today after reading MTG's post, indeed I can see a similarity to RIVE GAUCHE. It doesn't smell a lot like RIVE GAUCHE, but it is very fougere-y. They have a similar attitude. RGPH is louder than SARTORIAL. SARTORIAL is much more layered.

  58. #58

    Default Re: Penhaligon's Sartorial - first wearing and review

    I guess Jock_With_Scents thinks Sartorial smells dated to him. That's OK because it's his honest opinion. For me Sartorial smells completely new,modern, and refreshenly unique. I don't get any traditional fougere at all. I've worn Sartorial three days in a row now because I'm enjoying it so much.

    Sartorial is without a doubt the crown jewel in Penhaligon's line. Duchaufour loves his green pepper. The drydown to me is all about the green pepper. Very sexy, masculine and sensual to my nose. Sartorial is 100% pure class in a bottle. This can be worn by a 20 year old or a 60 year old and still be classy.

    Good sillage and great lasting power for an EDT.

    I guess it's time to back my mouth with my money. Off to Luckyscent for a bottle of this modern elixir.

    CAUTION: Continued use may be addicting.
    Last edited by thebeck; 27th October 2010 at 02:37 PM.

  59. #59

    Default Re: Penhaligon's Sartorial - first wearing and review

    Interesting "back and forth" on this gents.

    I too have been sampling this and enjoying it immensely. I hear the RGPH comparison, but because of the lavender note, I am also drawing analogies to other lavender prominent frags - insert your own here. I tried to do a side by side with Gris Clair, and when doing that I realized that indeed Sartorial is much more than just lavender - very multifaceted. One more to add to the wishlist!

  60. #60

    Default Re: Penhaligon's Sartorial - first wearing and review

    Quote Originally Posted by StylinLA View Post
    Upon wearing today after reading MTG's post, indeed I can see a similarity to RIVE GAUCHE. It doesn't smell a lot like RIVE GAUCHE, but it is very fougere-y. They have a similar attitude. RGPH is louder than SARTORIAL. SARTORIAL is much more layered.
    Louder? I only have a sample of RGPH, so I'm not well versed in it, but I found Sartorial to be VERY loud, actually quite surprisingly so. I think I wrote it off too quickly, because the whole "barbershop" theme is not my favorite area of fragrance, but the drydown is beautiful.
    <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>

    Obsessions of the Moment- Kristiansand EDC, Green Irish Tweed, Zizan

    Granted, we've known each other for some time. It don't take a whole day to recognize sunshine. ~ Common Sense

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