Code of Conduct
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 60 of 103
  1. #1
    Basenotes Plus

    JaimeB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    San Francisco, California
    Posts
    5,403
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    140

    Default Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    The tester of Houbigant's long-awaited re-release of Fougère Royale arrived in San Francisco on Sunday, but my commitments over my birthday weekend made impossible for me to get a couple of small vials until this afternoon (Tuesday, October 12).

    Well, I'll begin by describing the bottle. It is a square, solid design with a fretwork basket-weave motif of clear and frosted glass. The juice's pale green peeks through the glass in subtle variation of tone across the pattern of frosted and clear glass. The cap is a silver-toned affair of solid, square proportions, echoing the shape of the bottle, and reminiscent of the flat-topped caps of Amouage fragrances, only broader and more massive.

    Enough about the bottle. The Juice:

    Fougère from the first, the triad of Houbigant's invention (lavender, oakmoss, and tonka bean) shines forth as itself, not detectable as any of its components, but as a quartum quid, a fourth thing, being all of the other three, but at the same time none of them — a totally new olfactory impression, unique, and utterly a being unto itself. To this add a definite green note of depth and vibrancy, backed by vetiver and woods, with perhaps a hint of the oriental about it. Throughout, the resinous bitter note of oakmoss seems to be slightly pulled out of the fougère strand by the reinforcement of vetiver, and perhaps a touch of geranium.

    I haven't seen the full notes pyramid yet, though the Houbigant rep who shared this with me promises to email it to me soon. At that time, I may have more to say, or have to amend my earlier suppositions. In any case, it's still too soon after initial application to say anything with much precision about base notes and any persistence of notes from upper layers.

    The overall impression? The best I can say is that Patou pour Homme Privé, my previous standard of judgment for the fougère genre, has nothing on Fougère Royale. Coming from me, that's high and mighty praise, because until I smelled this, I thought the Patou Privé to be the pinnacle of green-woody fougères. Fougère Royale is infinitesimally sharper, but somehow slightly less herbal, and more grounded in the base note.

    One caveat about this: This is not an aromatic fougère of the type of the late 70's through 80's, like Azzaro pour Homme and others of its type. They came nearly a hundred years after Houbigant's first Fougère Royale, and introduced spicy aromaticity to the notion of fougère. This was a natural and well-received variation on the genre; yet I feel that the new Houbigant may hark back to an earlier style of more herbal-green and woody fougère, an age-of-innocence version of fougère now (or perhaps until now) largely lost to time. The original 1882 Houbigant Fougère Royale, if by some miracle there were one left that had not gone off one bit from its day of manufacture, I imagine, would have been very much like this.

    It's for Houbigant to say whether they found and exactly duplicated the original formula from some deep and closely-guarded vault. I can only imagine that it might well have been like this. I don't know what materials went into the re-release or how they were sourced, though I am told that the process of perfecting this was long and went through many iterations. I would like to imagine that I am not smelling any note that was not available to perfumers in 1882, whether from a natural or reconstructed synthetic source. Somehow, to me, that is believable.

    One more thing: What I am wearing on my right hand is the eau de parfum. There is a more intense version available in very limited edition which I recall being told was a parfum concentration. That's a treat that I have yet to experience.
    Last edited by JaimeB; 13th October 2010 at 05:33 AM.
    Yr good bud,

    JaimeB

    "Why spend life seeking that which does not satisfy? Why remain a slave, when freedom waits? Let your life shine; illumine the world with your truth!"

    My Wardrobe
    My Reviews

    Fiat justitia ruat cælum.

    Let justice be done, even if the sky should fall.

    Lucius Calpurnius Piso Caesoninus

    Qui nihil potest sperare, desperet nihil.
    Let him who can hope for nothing despair of nothing.

    —Seneca

  2. #2
    NYCBoy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Sacramento, California
    Posts
    2,148
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Jaime, when I was in San Francisco last month for the BN meet-up, the rep at Neiman Marcus told me that it would be available as an EDP and a parfum. No mention was made of an EDT version. Are you sure the tester was an EDT? Also, do you have any assessments yet about its sillage and longevity?

  3. #3
    Basenotes Plus

    JaimeB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    San Francisco, California
    Posts
    5,403
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    140

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Quote Originally Posted by NYCBoy View Post
    Jaime, when I was in San Francisco last month for the BN meet-up, the rep at Neiman Marcus told me that it would be available as an EDP and a parfum. No mention was made of an EDT version. Are you sure the tester was an EDT? Also, do you have any assessments yet about its sillage and longevity?
    Sorry, my mistake, it is an eau de parfum; I have made the change in the original post. I can't really say much about longevity yet. The sillage is very pronounced at first, and then goes to more humane proportions after about an hour, but is definitely noticeable from about arm's length. It should be detectable from a passer-by.
    Yr good bud,

    JaimeB

    "Why spend life seeking that which does not satisfy? Why remain a slave, when freedom waits? Let your life shine; illumine the world with your truth!"

    My Wardrobe
    My Reviews

    Fiat justitia ruat cælum.

    Let justice be done, even if the sky should fall.

    Lucius Calpurnius Piso Caesoninus

    Qui nihil potest sperare, desperet nihil.
    Let him who can hope for nothing despair of nothing.

    —Seneca

  4. #4
    odioustoilet's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    I-5/washington street exit
    Posts
    1,218
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    12

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    I'm almost afraid to ask. like they say, "if you have to ask how much it costs.......", but I will, what are we looking at........$50-$100 per 1oz./30ml?

  5. #5

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Thanks for the review... I am really interested in trying this.
    I don't know much about medicine, but I know what I like. -- S.J. Perelman

  6. #6
    Moderator

    Redneck Perfumisto's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Spiritually, Kansas
    Posts
    13,080
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    37

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Yes - many thanks!
    * * * *

  7. #7

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Jaime, thank you for this! Houbigant was once one of the great fragrance companies of the 18th and 19th centuries. What happened to them was a pure shame as they were on a par with Guerlain! (Older than Guerlain, in fact. In fact, a certain dandy might have bought his scent from them.)

    I only recall the Musk Oil of the 1960s-70s, marketed through their Alyssa Ashley line, and now I only like Quelque Fleurs. Lutece was the last big hurrah for the women's market.
    "No sweet perfume ever tortured me more than this." Desert Rose by Sting and Cheb Mami, Album 1999.

  8. #8
    Basenotes Institution
    mikeperez23's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Miami, FL
    Posts
    25,693
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Wow, sounds wonderful Jaime. How lucky you are.

    One more thing: Don't you guys think it's sort of unusual that Houbigant hasn't really done a full-on press release for this scent (or did I miss it?). I have read ZERO information about this on the perfume blogosphere and noone, as far as I can see, has a picture of the new bottle. WTH?
    Last edited by mikeperez23; 13th October 2010 at 02:19 AM.

  9. #9
    Basenotes Plus

    JaimeB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    San Francisco, California
    Posts
    5,403
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    140

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Quote Originally Posted by odioustoilet View Post
    I'm almost afraid to ask. like they say, "if you have to ask how much it costs.......", but I will, what are we looking at........$50-$100 per 1oz./30ml?
    I'm sorry I forgot to include that detail. The perfume version is $600 US, and the EdP, $170. I'm sorry that I still haven't clarified the sizes. The tester of the EdP I saw today looked to be at least 75 ml. It might even have been 100 ml. I should have looked at the label, but didn't. Mea culpa. I haven't seen or heard any hard information about the perfume, except that I heard early on the packaging is supposed to be very attractive.
    Yr good bud,

    JaimeB

    "Why spend life seeking that which does not satisfy? Why remain a slave, when freedom waits? Let your life shine; illumine the world with your truth!"

    My Wardrobe
    My Reviews

    Fiat justitia ruat cælum.

    Let justice be done, even if the sky should fall.

    Lucius Calpurnius Piso Caesoninus

    Qui nihil potest sperare, desperet nihil.
    Let him who can hope for nothing despair of nothing.

    —Seneca

  10. #10
    Basenotes Plus

    JaimeB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    San Francisco, California
    Posts
    5,403
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    140

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    Wow, sounds wonderful Jaime. How lucky you are.

    One more thing: Don't you guys think it's sort of unusual that Houbigant hasn't really done a full-on press release for this scent (or did I miss it?). I have read ZERO information about this on the perfume blogosphere and noone, as far as I can see, has a picture of the new bottle. WTH?
    The launch is supposed to take place at San Francisco Neiman's around October 20. I think they are sort of keeping it under wraps in order to stimulate more interest. I think many people today don't recognize the name Fougère Royale or its significance in the history of perfumery. Everybody here on Basenotes probably knows the word fougère, but the world at large probably doesn't know that FR was the very first of its kind and pioneered the genre.
    Yr good bud,

    JaimeB

    "Why spend life seeking that which does not satisfy? Why remain a slave, when freedom waits? Let your life shine; illumine the world with your truth!"

    My Wardrobe
    My Reviews

    Fiat justitia ruat cælum.

    Let justice be done, even if the sky should fall.

    Lucius Calpurnius Piso Caesoninus

    Qui nihil potest sperare, desperet nihil.
    Let him who can hope for nothing despair of nothing.

    —Seneca

  11. #11
    SmellChaser
    scentsitivity's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    5,356
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Thanks for the detailed descriptions. This is certainly a "must try"!

  12. #12

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    I'm drooling.

    Any word if this will be available in-store only, or will it also be offered online?
    Vintage Guerlain, Maître Parfumeur et Gantier, and other rare off-site sales.
    Frederic Malle, Guerlain, by Kilian, and Amouage splits.
    New atomizer and decanting supplies for sale.
    For me a work of fiction exists only insofar as it affords me what I shall bluntly call aesthetic bliss, that is a sense of being somehow, somewhere, connected with other states of being where art (curiosity, tenderness, kindness, ecstasy) is the norm. - Vladimir Nabokov

  13. #13
    odysseusm's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    4,161
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    This is definitely of interest to me. As I've noted elsewhere, I'm so lucky as to have a vintage (1960's) bottle of FR. It is magnificent, though likely less fresh than it had been in its prime. Jaime, thanks for your review which suggests a marvelous scent of stunning depth. I look forward to trying the new version.
    odysseusm

    "The force that through the green fuse drives the flower // drives my green age..." Dylan Thomas

  14. #14
    rogalal's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Berkeley, California
    Posts
    3,355
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    33

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    At this point, the only Neimans that's carrying it is the San Francisco one. They were talking about doing a press party at some point, but it would have to be in stock before that would happen. By way of explanation, the US Houbigant rep also works at the San Francisco Neiman Marcus, so he's built up a bit of a cult around Houbigant in SF that most cities don't have. They use SF as a test market before going nationwide. That's why we also have the exclusive on 10 Corso Como Uomo, which is distributed by Houbigant.

    Though it is surprising that the big perfume blogs don't know about this yet. I suppose they don't have samples yet, either, and it's hard to do a big promo push on a product that's only available at one specific store. Plus, there are only a limited number of bottles being made, so a big rush of collectors calling for it would likely result in disappointment. I'd personally expect to hear more once it hits a wider release.

    It really does smell great... I think pretty much everyone who has had the opportunity to smell it has put their name in for a bottle.
    Has everyone checked out my Top 100 Blog??

  15. #15
    Basenotes Institution
    mikeperez23's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Miami, FL
    Posts
    25,693
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    It's nice to see an 'exclusive' happening somewhere in the US besides New York.

    Has the Houbigant rep mentioned who the nose was behind this new release?

  16. #16
    arlecchino's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    New York
    Posts
    726
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    It's nice to see an 'exclusive' happening somewhere in the US besides New York.
    No it's not nice at all! ...I'm sure other New Yorker Basenoters will agree with me!
    “I wanna say something. I’m gonna put it out there. If you like it, you can take it, if you don’t, send it right back…."

  17. #17
    rogalal's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Berkeley, California
    Posts
    3,355
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    33

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Apparently, he fought quite hard for the exclusive not to be given to Bergdorfs.

    He mentioned the nose, too. Apparently, they had old formulas and ingredient lists and samples of the original around, but they wanted a very respected nose to be in charge of the recreation process. Sadly, I've forgotten the name, but I'm pretty sure I remember it being someone I knew from Frederic Malle, if that helps...

    Maybe Jaime knows??
    Has everyone checked out my Top 100 Blog??

  18. #18
    Snafoo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Peculiar
    Posts
    2,759
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    This is all very exciting; Houbigant was all but history when I started getting interested in fragrance.
    +1 for a non-NYC rollout!
    Everyone is entitled to his own opinions, but not his own facts. Daniel Moynihan

  19. #19
    Basenotes Plus

    JaimeB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    San Francisco, California
    Posts
    5,403
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    140

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Finally, the official pyramid, definite sizes and prices, and the photos!

    Top Notes: Bergamot, Mediterranean Herbs, Lavender, Chamomile •Heart Notes: Rondeletia,* Geranium, Rose de Mai Orpur‡, Cinnamon, Carnation • Base Notes: Amber, Oakmoss, Patchouli Orpur, Tonka Bean Orpur, Clary Sage

    [*Rondeletia odorata (Fragrant Panama Rose) originally from Cuba]
    [‡Orpur® is a special collection of more than 50 pure naturals from Givaudan which are selected in partnership with perfumers]

    Official sizes and prices:

    Fougère Royale EdP 100 ml. $170 US
    Fougère Royale Perfume Edition 100 ml. $600 US (Yes, that's 100 ml.) presented in a hardwood lacquered box.

    And pictures:

    image24.jpg
    EdP Bottle

    image25.jpg
    EdP Box

    image27.jpg
    Perfume Edition Box

    Enjoy!
    Last edited by JaimeB; 28th October 2010 at 02:28 PM.
    Yr good bud,

    JaimeB

    "Why spend life seeking that which does not satisfy? Why remain a slave, when freedom waits? Let your life shine; illumine the world with your truth!"

    My Wardrobe
    My Reviews

    Fiat justitia ruat cælum.

    Let justice be done, even if the sky should fall.

    Lucius Calpurnius Piso Caesoninus

    Qui nihil potest sperare, desperet nihil.
    Let him who can hope for nothing despair of nothing.

    —Seneca

  20. #20

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Beautiful.

    I was expecting the perfume to be 30ml, but at 100ml, the price isn't so outrageous.

    One bottle of each, please.
    Vintage Guerlain, Maître Parfumeur et Gantier, and other rare off-site sales.
    Frederic Malle, Guerlain, by Kilian, and Amouage splits.
    New atomizer and decanting supplies for sale.
    For me a work of fiction exists only insofar as it affords me what I shall bluntly call aesthetic bliss, that is a sense of being somehow, somewhere, connected with other states of being where art (curiosity, tenderness, kindness, ecstasy) is the norm. - Vladimir Nabokov

  21. #21
    Basenotes Plus

    JaimeB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    San Francisco, California
    Posts
    5,403
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    140

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Quote Originally Posted by strifeknot View Post
    Beautiful.

    I was expecting the perfume to be 30ml, but at 100ml, the price isn't so outrageous.

    One bottle of each, please.
    The perfume is supposed to be a very limited edition. I think I heard the Houbigant rep say that all the available perfumes were sold. But that may only be the ones allotted to San Francisco Neiman's. Keep your fingers crossed! It is kind of amazing that it would be 100 ml. of extrait though. The rep wasn't sure, but he thought the perfume might be a spray bottle, too.

    I am gratified that I guessed correctly about geranium and vetiver. It was a safe bet that there would be lavender, oakmoss, and tonka bean! I thought that there was clary sage in there, but I didn't want to go out on a limb. I should have. It turns out I was right about that, too.

    Well, I think that's enough self-congratulation for one post.
    Yr good bud,

    JaimeB

    "Why spend life seeking that which does not satisfy? Why remain a slave, when freedom waits? Let your life shine; illumine the world with your truth!"

    My Wardrobe
    My Reviews

    Fiat justitia ruat cælum.

    Let justice be done, even if the sky should fall.

    Lucius Calpurnius Piso Caesoninus

    Qui nihil potest sperare, desperet nihil.
    Let him who can hope for nothing despair of nothing.

    —Seneca

  22. #22

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    The price is outstanding - looks like they are aiming into higher niche segment.
    My vintage bottle of parfum (from 60`s) costed me just mere 80 bucks.
    Nevertheless I`d love to try this new perfume and compare it to the vintage. Hope this will arrive to Russia!
    Vetiver The Great!!!

  23. #23
    Basenotes Plus

    JaimeB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    San Francisco, California
    Posts
    5,403
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    140

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Quote Originally Posted by rogalal View Post
    Apparently, he fought quite hard for the exclusive not to be given to Bergdorfs.

    He mentioned the nose, too. Apparently, they had old formulas and ingredient lists and samples of the original around, but they wanted a very respected nose to be in charge of the recreation process. Sadly, I've forgotten the name, but I'm pretty sure I remember it being someone I knew from Frederic Malle, if that helps...

    Maybe Jaime knows??
    Houbigant sent me their presentation package, at the rep's request, so that I'd be able to write a review. That's where all the updated information i posted came from, and the pictures.

    But in all that, there's no mention of a nose. Next time I see the rep, I'll ask. Unfortunately, I pulled jury duty today, so it may be a while...

    The bottle design, however, their presentation package attributes to Jean-Christophe Gaydon. He's a bottle designer based in Grasse. The only English web reference I found useful is here. For those who can read French, there's a far more interesting site here.

    A little blurb of description from the Houbigant presentation package:

    Fougere Royale opens with an uplifting cocktail of sparkling citrus oils, blending into an aromatic bouquet of Mediterranean herbs, where lavender and Moroccan chamomile oil dictate a buoyant tempo.
    A redolent heart follows, wherein a floral-spicy "Rondeletia" accord is revealed through rich geranium nuances and warm spices. A floral intermezzo showcases rare rose essences and absolutes, spiked with pepper, cinnamon and carnation.
    Finally, a grand finale of earthy, ambery and woody harmonies, with moss notes joining a sensual patchouli theme enriched by warm coumarinic undertones of tonka beans and clary sage absolute.

    Last edited by JaimeB; 15th October 2010 at 02:00 PM.
    Yr good bud,

    JaimeB

    "Why spend life seeking that which does not satisfy? Why remain a slave, when freedom waits? Let your life shine; illumine the world with your truth!"

    My Wardrobe
    My Reviews

    Fiat justitia ruat cælum.

    Let justice be done, even if the sky should fall.

    Lucius Calpurnius Piso Caesoninus

    Qui nihil potest sperare, desperet nihil.
    Let him who can hope for nothing despair of nothing.

    —Seneca

  24. #24
    arlecchino's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    New York
    Posts
    726
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Quote Originally Posted by JaimeB View Post
    Fougere Royale opens with an uplifting cocktail of sparkling citrus oils, blending into an aromatic bouquet of Mediterranean herbs, where lavender and Moroccan chamomile oil dictate a buoyant tempo.
    A redolent heart follows, wherein a floral-spicy "Rondeletia" accord is revealed through rich geranium nuances and warm spices. A floral intermezzo showcases rare rose essences and absolutes, spiked with pepper, cinnamon and carnation.
    Finally, a grand finale of earthy, ambery and woody harmonies, with moss notes joining a sensual patchouli theme enriched by warm coumarinic undertones of tonka beans and clary sage absolute.




    ...I am literally drooling over that description Jaime, I love every single note mentioned...and Rondeletia Panama Rose originally from Cuba!?...I can't even imagine what that must smell like but it has to be tremendous!
    Thank you for passing on all that info and for your review. Now THAT is how you write romance for a fragrance: it's direct, descriptive, gives us all the notes and outlines the overall feel of the fragrance with out any cheesy stories or a lot of mumbo jumbo. And the presentation? I think it's stunning.
    This is such an exciting new release I can barely stand it!
    “I wanna say something. I’m gonna put it out there. If you like it, you can take it, if you don’t, send it right back…."

  25. #25
    Frag Bomb Squadron XVII
    Diamondflame's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Singapore
    Posts
    6,031
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    WooHoo! Probably the best piece of news I heard all year! Thanks for the write-ups, Jaime.

  26. #26
    Basenotes Plus

    JaimeB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    San Francisco, California
    Posts
    5,403
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    140

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Two items in answer to questions posed earlier:


    1. The Perfume Edition of Fougère Royale will come in a 100 ml. spray bottle.
    2. During the long process of development of the scent, various perfumers worked on it, but the final credited nose is Rodrigo Flores-Roux, about whom you can read an interesting article here.
    Yr good bud,

    JaimeB

    "Why spend life seeking that which does not satisfy? Why remain a slave, when freedom waits? Let your life shine; illumine the world with your truth!"

    My Wardrobe
    My Reviews

    Fiat justitia ruat cælum.

    Let justice be done, even if the sky should fall.

    Lucius Calpurnius Piso Caesoninus

    Qui nihil potest sperare, desperet nihil.
    Let him who can hope for nothing despair of nothing.

    —Seneca

  27. #27
    MHV's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Montréal
    Posts
    124
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Will it be possible to order this online? I live in Canada, and this will perhaps be my only blind buy ever!

  28. #28
    PaulSC's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    SF Bay Area
    Posts
    1,194
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Two comments...

    First, I stopped into Neiman Marcus SF today and am now wearing FR on my left arm. It is beautiful and I generally agree with the assessments here and in another BN thread or two, but I find the drydown surprisingly bright and tea-like -- I smell something in common with the drydown of one of the Carthusia fragrances, maybe Mediterraneo. Not a negative by any means, but not what I expected either.

    Second:
    Quote Originally Posted by JaimeB View Post
    During the long process of development of the scent, various perfumers worked on it, but the final credited nose is Rodrigo Flores-Roux
    Wow, he did my favorite scent in the Six Scents line: series 2, no. 5, a remarkable fennel-based scent, absolutely one-of-a-kind, dry, grassy, very true to nature. Come to think of it, it shares with FR a "brightness" that is totally unlike the hissy aromatic quality that spoils (for me) so many of the modern aromatic fougeres. Sign me up for his fan club!
    Spray it, don’t say it…
    WARDROBE

  29. #29
    PaulSC's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    SF Bay Area
    Posts
    1,194
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    ^ Thinking about the FR drydown some more, it may be the coumarin that gives me an impression of tea leaves. The scent of coumarin is often described as "sweet hay."
    Spray it, don’t say it…
    WARDROBE

  30. #30
    Basenotes Plus

    JaimeB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    San Francisco, California
    Posts
    5,403
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    140

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    I found a reference to the somewhat mysterious (or at least hitherto unfamiliar) Rondeletia note listed in the heart note of the re-release of Fougère Royale! I decided to check Nigel Groom's The New Perfume Handbook (2nd Edition) London: Chapman & Hall (1997), and found this entry:

    "Rondeletia
    A synthetic perfume made by combining various flower fragrances to imitate the fragrance of the flowers of the Rondeletia shrub of Mexico and Cuba."

    It would appear that the knowledge and use of this material has been around for a while, and I suppose that that the perfumer, Rodrigo Flores-Roux, being Mexican, might be familiar with it and may have put it into the mix as his individual "signature."
    Yr good bud,

    JaimeB

    "Why spend life seeking that which does not satisfy? Why remain a slave, when freedom waits? Let your life shine; illumine the world with your truth!"

    My Wardrobe
    My Reviews

    Fiat justitia ruat cælum.

    Let justice be done, even if the sky should fall.

    Lucius Calpurnius Piso Caesoninus

    Qui nihil potest sperare, desperet nihil.
    Let him who can hope for nothing despair of nothing.

    —Seneca

  31. #31
    the_good_life's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Friedberg (Hessen)
    Posts
    5,568
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Thanks for reporting. Sounds very interesting, if out of my range.
    My Wardrobe
    II est de forts parfums pour qui toute matière/Est poreuse. On dirait qu'ils pénètrent le verre.

  32. #32

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Jaime, thank you for the update! Does this, perhaps, herald a new "renaissance" for the house of Houbigant? Can it return to its former glory?
    "No sweet perfume ever tortured me more than this." Desert Rose by Sting and Cheb Mami, Album 1999.

  33. #33
    NYCBoy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Sacramento, California
    Posts
    2,148
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Thank you Jaime for the link to that fascinating article about Rodrigo Flores-Roux. He is obviously an extremely talented and knowledgeable perfumer. Isn't it interesting that Armani's Acqua di Gio is on his list of "brilliant perfumes" that he loved at first sniff?

  34. #34
    Basenotes Plus

    JaimeB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    San Francisco, California
    Posts
    5,403
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    140

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    A further update:

    The Houbigant rep tells me that the bottles have arrived in the United States and are awaiting customs clearance in New Jersey. It's only a matter of days, apparently, until they arrive in San Francisco.

    For the official launch, they hope to have the perfumer, Rodrigo Flores-Roux, on hand; however, the official launch will probably be after the date of availability. This is because they are working with Flores-Roux's schedule.

    Further, for those interested in the pure perfume: There will likely be more of it than previously thought, so you can call (415) 362-3900 and ask for the Men's Perfume counter. Then ask for Michal (MEE-hahl) and request a bottle to be put aside for you.
    Yr good bud,

    JaimeB

    "Why spend life seeking that which does not satisfy? Why remain a slave, when freedom waits? Let your life shine; illumine the world with your truth!"

    My Wardrobe
    My Reviews

    Fiat justitia ruat cælum.

    Let justice be done, even if the sky should fall.

    Lucius Calpurnius Piso Caesoninus

    Qui nihil potest sperare, desperet nihil.
    Let him who can hope for nothing despair of nothing.

    —Seneca

  35. #35

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Thanks for the tip, Jaime! I'll call and try to reserve one. *fingers crossed*
    Vintage Guerlain, Maître Parfumeur et Gantier, and other rare off-site sales.
    Frederic Malle, Guerlain, by Kilian, and Amouage splits.
    New atomizer and decanting supplies for sale.
    For me a work of fiction exists only insofar as it affords me what I shall bluntly call aesthetic bliss, that is a sense of being somehow, somewhere, connected with other states of being where art (curiosity, tenderness, kindness, ecstasy) is the norm. - Vladimir Nabokov

  36. #36
    PaulSC's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    SF Bay Area
    Posts
    1,194
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    At $170 (and considerably more for the Parfum), I don't think this is a wise blind-buy...
    Spray it, don’t say it…
    WARDROBE

  37. #37

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Thank you again, Jaime, for the update. I would love to sample and perhaps but, but a certain Geurlain must be sampled first...

    This came out today:

    http://www.nstperfume.com/2010/10/19...ew-fragrances/
    "No sweet perfume ever tortured me more than this." Desert Rose by Sting and Cheb Mami, Album 1999.

  38. #38
    Basenotes Plus

    JaimeB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    San Francisco, California
    Posts
    5,403
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    140

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Quote Originally Posted by PaulSC View Post
    At $170 (and considerably more for the Parfum), I don't think this is a wise blind-buy...
    If you are in San Francisco, the tester is at Neiman's men's fragrance counter... so people near the Bay Area at least don't have to buy blind...
    Yr good bud,

    JaimeB

    "Why spend life seeking that which does not satisfy? Why remain a slave, when freedom waits? Let your life shine; illumine the world with your truth!"

    My Wardrobe
    My Reviews

    Fiat justitia ruat cælum.

    Let justice be done, even if the sky should fall.

    Lucius Calpurnius Piso Caesoninus

    Qui nihil potest sperare, desperet nihil.
    Let him who can hope for nothing despair of nothing.

    —Seneca

  39. #39

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Superb coverage JB. Love this heritage house, too. Can't wait to try it.

  40. #40
    PaulSC's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    SF Bay Area
    Posts
    1,194
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Quote Originally Posted by JaimeB View Post
    If you are in San Francisco, the tester is at Neiman's men's fragrance counter... so people near the Bay Area at least don't have to buy blind...
    I have tested it on my skin and reported my impressions upthread, but I didn't realize strifeknot was near the Bay Area.
    Spray it, don’t say it…
    WARDROBE

  41. #41
    arlecchino's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    New York
    Posts
    726
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Quote Originally Posted by JaimeB View Post
    A further update:

    The Houbigant rep tells me that the bottles have arrived in the United States and are awaiting customs clearance in New Jersey.
    Here's hoping they fall off the truck in Jersey and end up for sale at the bodega on my corner!
    Fingers crossed!
    “I wanna say something. I’m gonna put it out there. If you like it, you can take it, if you don’t, send it right back…."

  42. #42
    gido's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Amsterdam
    Posts
    1,715
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    count me as skeptical. the name was sold several times. houbigant became a cheap name. what company exactly is really behind all this?

    it would be interesting to compare, though. i have a bottle from the 1940-1950's. at that point, houbigant was still houbigant, and making quality stuff.

    the original smells fresh, with very much coumarin, and dirty at the same time, with natural civet. it's clearly intended as a masculine. and not very floral, not at all.. i don't know what all these floral notes are about.
    Last edited by gido; 20th October 2010 at 06:30 PM.

  43. #43
    Basenotes Institution
    mikeperez23's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Miami, FL
    Posts
    25,693
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Quote Originally Posted by gido View Post
    count me as skeptical. the name was sold several times. houbigant became a cheap name. what company exactly is really behind all this?

    it would be interesting to compare, though. i have a bottle from the 1940-1950's. at that point, houbigant was still houbigant, and making quality stuff.

    the original smells fresh, with very much coumarin, and dirty at the same time, with natural civet. it's clearly intended as a masculine. and not very floral, not at all.. i don't know what all these floral notes are about.
    The original (1882) might smell like it has no florals but it does contain them: geranium, orchid, heliotrope, carnation & rose. As do most fougeres.

  44. #44
    NYCBoy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Sacramento, California
    Posts
    2,148
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Quote Originally Posted by gido View Post
    What company exactly is really behind all this?
    I am wondering the same thing myself. Houbigant went into bankruptcy back in the 1990's and no longer exists as a perfume manufacturer. See this interesting article about the company: http://perfumeprojects.com/museum/ma...oubigant.shtml

  45. #45
    Basenotes Plus

    JaimeB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    San Francisco, California
    Posts
    5,403
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    140

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    The original (1882) might smell like it has no florals but it does contain them: geranium, orchid, heliotrope, carnation & rose. As do most fougeres.
    The aroma is not at all floral. The first impressions are bergamot, clary sage, and geranium, with the effect of coumarin and lavender on the mix being evident, but not separately detectable. Remember that the fougère and chypre accords don't smell like their constituent foundational parts, but that the fundamental materials create a new aromatic impression and are no longer distinctly discernible as individual notes. The character of fougères is more due to the materials added on top of the fougère accord than in the accord itself. This new release of Fougère Royale is unmistakably a fougère, and it is a green woody one, not a noticeably floral one. There is rose de mai, carnation, geranium, and an accord modeled on Rondeletia for floral notes, but these (as in many floral-dominated masculine perfume heart notes) are so balanced by other materials that they never come across as distinctly floral.

    If it will serve any useful purpose to those interested, here is the basic information about the present corporate identity of the company that owns the name:

    The Houbigant fragrances Quelques Fleurs (the first true multi-floral bouquet) and Quelques Fleurs Royale (which is based upon the formula created for Princess Adelaide D'Orleans) are now being manufactured under the original specifications by LOFT Fashion and Beauty Diffusion of Monaco and marketed in the United States by Exclusive Fragrances and Cosmetics. [wikipedia "Houbigant"]

    LOFT S.A.M.
    5 Avenue de Citronniers
    MC98000 MONACO
    Tel: +377.92.16.03.55

    The Perfume Projects article cited upthread has obviously not been updated to reflect this information.

    I found the company listed on Panjiva.com. The ownership information seems to be worth $49.99 to corporate financial types, but I don't have fifty dollars' worth of curiosity about them, so that's all I can give you. They have a website at http://www.houbigant-parfum.com/anglais/main.html with an email contact form. Anyone who wants to find out more can use it.

    The rep I know here in San Francisco says the new owners wish to revive the Houbigant reputation, at least for the patents they own. I think their getting a perfumer as good as Rodrigo Flores-Roux to do this and trying to make it as close in quality to the original as possible is some evidence of their earnestness. Otherwise, why would they put three Orpur products into it? That must be pretty darned expensive!
    Last edited by JaimeB; 20th October 2010 at 11:43 PM.
    Yr good bud,

    JaimeB

    "Why spend life seeking that which does not satisfy? Why remain a slave, when freedom waits? Let your life shine; illumine the world with your truth!"

    My Wardrobe
    My Reviews

    Fiat justitia ruat cælum.

    Let justice be done, even if the sky should fall.

    Lucius Calpurnius Piso Caesoninus

    Qui nihil potest sperare, desperet nihil.
    Let him who can hope for nothing despair of nothing.

    —Seneca

  46. #46
    Sub Zero's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    202
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    I read on an older thread about Fougere Royale that Narciso Rodriguez For Him is a modern interpretation. Can anyone confirm this?

  47. #47
    Basenotes Plus

    JaimeB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    San Francisco, California
    Posts
    5,403
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    140

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Quote Originally Posted by Sub Zero View Post
    I read on an older thread about Fougere Royale that Narciso Rodriguez For Him is a modern interpretation. Can anyone confirm this?
    The notes I find for Narciso Rodriguez for Him are: Violet Leaf, White Musk, Amber, Patchouli.

    The classic fougère foundational accord is Lavender, Oakmoss, and Coumarin. According to that classical definition, it would seem that NR for Him is not a fougère by that standard. Fougère Royale lists only Patchouli in common with NR for Him, so I don't think the resemblance could be very close at all.

    This isn't to say that NR for Him isn't a good scent, of course, it just depends on how much of a stretch one is willing to accept between the original concept of fougère (of which the 1882 Fougère Royale was the prototype) and what constitutes a "modern fougère" in the mind of whoever classified NR for Him in that category. Personally, I don't see it.
    Yr good bud,

    JaimeB

    "Why spend life seeking that which does not satisfy? Why remain a slave, when freedom waits? Let your life shine; illumine the world with your truth!"

    My Wardrobe
    My Reviews

    Fiat justitia ruat cælum.

    Let justice be done, even if the sky should fall.

    Lucius Calpurnius Piso Caesoninus

    Qui nihil potest sperare, desperet nihil.
    Let him who can hope for nothing despair of nothing.

    —Seneca

  48. #48
    gido's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Amsterdam
    Posts
    1,715
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    The original (1882) might smell like it has no florals but it does contain them: geranium, orchid, heliotrope, carnation & rose. As do most fougeres.
    i know. geranium is even part of the most basic fougere formula. but if it does not smell like <some flower> why put it in the notes list? this list is not an ingredient list, it is a list of (often imaginary) things you can smell in a perfume. this long list containing several flowers does not sound like fougere royale, it is not the way i would describe it.

  49. #49
    gido's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Amsterdam
    Posts
    1,715
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Quote Originally Posted by JaimeB View Post
    [FONT=Trebuchet MS][SIZE=3]The aroma is not at all floral. The first impressions are bergamot, clary sage, and geranium, with the effect of coumarin and lavender on the mix being evident, but not separately detectable. Remember that the fougère and chypre accords don't smell like their constituent foundational parts, but that the fundamental materials create a new aromatic impression and are no longer distinctly discernible as individual notes.
    my vintage fougere royale smells very, very much like coumarine. i have never smelled anything that came even close in the amount of coumarin used, it just leaps out at you. it is very obvious and unapologetic.

    thanks for the info about the company.

  50. #50
    Sub Zero's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    202
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Quote Originally Posted by JaimeB View Post
    The notes I find for Narciso Rodriguez for Him are: Violet Leaf, White Musk, Amber, Patchouli.

    The classic fougère foundational accord is Lavender, Oakmoss, and Coumarin. According to that classical definition, it would seem that NR for Him is not a fougère by that standard. Fougère Royale lists only Patchouli in common with NR for Him, so I don't think the resemblance could be very close at all.

    This isn't to say that NR for Him isn't a good scent, of course, it just depends on how much of a stretch one is willing to accept between the original concept of fougère (of which the 1882 Fougère Royale was the prototype) and what constitutes a "modern fougère" in the mind of whoever classified NR for Him in that category. Personally, I don't see it.
    Thanks for the clarification. I got a bit excited since I love NRFH. Which scent in 'your opinion' comes closest to Fourgere Royale?

  51. #51
    Basenotes Plus

    JaimeB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    San Francisco, California
    Posts
    5,403
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    140

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Quote Originally Posted by gido View Post
    my vintage fougere royale smells very, very much like coumarine. i have never smelled anything that came even close in the amount of coumarin used, it just leaps out at you. it is very obvious and unapologetic.
    The floral notes are in the mix and contribute a grace note, but don't dominate. They become a little more evident as it dries down. The carnation, of course, recalls cloves, and the geranium is greener than a true floral, but the rose de mai is about as floral things get in perfume.

    There is a distinct, prominent "new-mown hay" note, which is there throughout. This brings out the clary sage, the vetiver, and the geranium, and pulls the oakmoss out a bit from the fougère accord.

    Of course, this is not the original Fougère Royale. I'm not sure if the materials could even be sourced today as they were before, or that the IFRA regulations would permit its original proportions. All I can say is that this is a good one, and from what I have read about FR, it seems to be done in the same spirit. I said in my original post that it is at least as good as Patou pour Homme Privé, and as a green fougère, I think it does compare very favorably with pH Privé.

    If you're still looking for the original or anything very nearly the same as the old FR, this probably won't be close enough to satisfy you entirely. There's nothing I can do about that. I can only say that it's a very good old-style fougère to my nose.
    Yr good bud,

    JaimeB

    "Why spend life seeking that which does not satisfy? Why remain a slave, when freedom waits? Let your life shine; illumine the world with your truth!"

    My Wardrobe
    My Reviews

    Fiat justitia ruat cælum.

    Let justice be done, even if the sky should fall.

    Lucius Calpurnius Piso Caesoninus

    Qui nihil potest sperare, desperet nihil.
    Let him who can hope for nothing despair of nothing.

    —Seneca

  52. #52
    gido's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Amsterdam
    Posts
    1,715
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Quote Originally Posted by JaimeB View Post
    [FONT=Trebuchet MS][SIZE=3]The classic fougère foundational accord is Lavender, Oakmoss, and Coumarin.
    i believe the complete classic definition is:
    - bergamot
    - lavender
    - geranium
    - vetiver
    - oakmoss absolute
    - tonka bean absolute
    - coumarin

    anyone who want to smell a truly classic fougere should try canoe. it can be found on ebay for cheap, but make sure you get the vintage. you can recognise this as they have a paper label and a white cap. it is rather different from fougere royale, though.

    you mention chypre and fougere, but did you know that in the past, there where actually two other categories? foin and trefle. they all had bergamot and oakmoss absolute, and several other ingredients could be found in more than one of these.

  53. #53
    gido's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Amsterdam
    Posts
    1,715
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    i have to say, in the end, i really hope that i am wrong, and that this new thing really does come close to the original. it's such a shame that it is lost!

    and i also really hope i my skepticism won't hurt anyone's enthusiasm in any way. if you like it, then that's great.
    Last edited by gido; 21st October 2010 at 06:06 AM.

  54. #54
    Basenotes Plus

    JaimeB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    San Francisco, California
    Posts
    5,403
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    140

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Quote Originally Posted by Sub Zero View Post
    Thanks for the clarification. I got a bit excited since I love NRFH. Which scent in 'your opinion' comes closest to Fourgere Royale?
    I'm reminded of a couple of scents, old green fougères, that are similar, but more overtly herbal: Jean Patou Pour Homme Privé (by Jean Kerléo) and Gucci Nobile, which is woodier than FR. Both these scents have been long discontinued. I don't know if the comparison will help you if you have never smelled them, but they are the only ones that are really reminiscent of FR to my nose.
    Last edited by JaimeB; 21st October 2010 at 02:24 PM.
    Yr good bud,

    JaimeB

    "Why spend life seeking that which does not satisfy? Why remain a slave, when freedom waits? Let your life shine; illumine the world with your truth!"

    My Wardrobe
    My Reviews

    Fiat justitia ruat cælum.

    Let justice be done, even if the sky should fall.

    Lucius Calpurnius Piso Caesoninus

    Qui nihil potest sperare, desperet nihil.
    Let him who can hope for nothing despair of nothing.

    —Seneca

  55. #55
    Basenotes Plus

    JaimeB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    San Francisco, California
    Posts
    5,403
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    140

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Quote Originally Posted by gido View Post
    i believe the complete classic definition is:
    - bergamot
    - lavender
    - geranium
    - vetiver
    - oakmoss absolute
    - tonka bean absolute
    - coumarin

    anyone who want to smell a truly classic fougere should try canoe. it can be found on ebay for cheap, but make sure you get the vintage. you can recognise this as they have a paper label and a white cap. it is rather different from fougere royale, though.

    you mention chypre and fougere, but did you know that in the past, there where actually two other categories? foin and trefle. they all had bergamot and oakmoss absolute, and several other ingredients could be found in more than one of these.
    "Foin" is hay in French, and "Trèfle" is clover. I think it was Piver who made Trèfle Incarnat in 1898. Delbourg-Delphis credits this as the first synthetic with "a totally new odor," from amyl salicylate. Richard Stamelman, in his 2006 book Perfume refers to it, and calls it "a synthetic clover with a soft, sweet hay odor."

    Anyway, judging from your complete list of fougère notes, the new FR is complete. It contains all of them, except synthetic coumarin (but it does have an Orpur® tonka bean).

    A lot of perfume books want to make both chypre and fougère "tripods;" the chypres with bergamot, oakmoss, and labdanum (or patchouli), and the fougères with lavender, oakmoss, and coumarin. These are bare-bones descriptions, reducing them to the skeletal minimum of characteristic core notes. Of course, one could observe other "typical" notes in either, as you have in your more complete list.

    I do have a bottle of Jean Carles's Canoe, and as you say, it is a somewhat different take on fougère.
    Last edited by JaimeB; 21st October 2010 at 06:47 AM.
    Yr good bud,

    JaimeB

    "Why spend life seeking that which does not satisfy? Why remain a slave, when freedom waits? Let your life shine; illumine the world with your truth!"

    My Wardrobe
    My Reviews

    Fiat justitia ruat cælum.

    Let justice be done, even if the sky should fall.

    Lucius Calpurnius Piso Caesoninus

    Qui nihil potest sperare, desperet nihil.
    Let him who can hope for nothing despair of nothing.

    —Seneca

  56. #56
    odysseusm's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    4,161
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Wonderful to see all this interest in a classic fougere. I too have a bottle of the vintage version, and agree that it is certainly rich in courmarin.
    Easily available fougeres in a similar style are Geo. F. Trumper's Wild Fern and Penhaligon's English Fern. Also, Bois 1920 Extreme.
    May I put in a plug for the Fougerites social group here at basenotes? Cheers, ody
    odysseusm

    "The force that through the green fuse drives the flower // drives my green age..." Dylan Thomas

  57. #57

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Quote Originally Posted by odysseusm View Post
    Wonderful to see all this interest in a classic fougere. I too have a bottle of the vintage version, and agree that it is certainly rich in courmarin.
    Easily available fougeres in a similar style are Geo. F. Trumper's Wild Fern and Penhaligon's English Fern. Also, Bois 1920 Extreme.
    May I put in a plug for the Fougerites social group here at basenotes? Cheers, ody
    Yes, thank you! The Fougerites group is here: http://www.basenotes.net/group.php?groupid=73

  58. #58
    arlecchino's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    New York
    Posts
    726
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    So Jaime, you wouldn't happen to have the scoop on when the rest of the country is going to get a whiff of all this fougere-goodness?
    “I wanna say something. I’m gonna put it out there. If you like it, you can take it, if you don’t, send it right back…."

  59. #59
    mrclmind's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    3,127
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Really, the basic accord for each genre can be stripped down to two components each: Fougere is the interplay between lavender and coumarin (or tonka as the case may be) and Chyphre is the interplay between bergamot and oakmoss. All other components are added to round out these very basic and classic accords... just my own personal opinion.

  60. #60
    Basenotes Plus

    JaimeB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    San Francisco, California
    Posts
    5,403
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    140

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Quote Originally Posted by mrclmind View Post
    Really, the basic accord for each genre can be stripped down to two components each: Fougere is the interplay between lavender and coumarin (or tonka as the case may be) and Chyphre is the interplay between bergamot and oakmoss. All other components are added to round out these very basic and classic accords... just my own personal opinion.
    Word! Nice to see you around here again!
    Yr good bud,

    JaimeB

    "Why spend life seeking that which does not satisfy? Why remain a slave, when freedom waits? Let your life shine; illumine the world with your truth!"

    My Wardrobe
    My Reviews

    Fiat justitia ruat cælum.

    Let justice be done, even if the sky should fall.

    Lucius Calpurnius Piso Caesoninus

    Qui nihil potest sperare, desperet nihil.
    Let him who can hope for nothing despair of nothing.

    —Seneca

Similar Threads

  1. QUELQUES FLEURS ROYALE by Houbigant
    By agml65 in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 14th March 2014, 08:12 AM
  2. Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff
    By JaimeB in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 56
    Last Post: 4th January 2012, 02:21 PM
  3. Houbigant's Fougère Royale being re-released
    By rogalal in forum Female Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 28th January 2010, 05:39 AM
  4. Houbigant Fougere Royale - a comeback?
    By Jardanel in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 2nd December 2008, 12:36 PM
  5. Houbigant Fougere Royale -- a modern substitute?
    By noggs in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 23rd August 2007, 04:47 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •