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  1. #31

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Thanks for reporting. Sounds very interesting, if out of my range.
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  2. #32

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Jaime, thank you for the update! Does this, perhaps, herald a new "renaissance" for the house of Houbigant? Can it return to its former glory?
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  3. #33
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    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Thank you Jaime for the link to that fascinating article about Rodrigo Flores-Roux. He is obviously an extremely talented and knowledgeable perfumer. Isn't it interesting that Armani's Acqua di Gio is on his list of "brilliant perfumes" that he loved at first sniff?

  4. #34
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    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    A further update:

    The Houbigant rep tells me that the bottles have arrived in the United States and are awaiting customs clearance in New Jersey. It's only a matter of days, apparently, until they arrive in San Francisco.

    For the official launch, they hope to have the perfumer, Rodrigo Flores-Roux, on hand; however, the official launch will probably be after the date of availability. This is because they are working with Flores-Roux's schedule.

    Further, for those interested in the pure perfume: There will likely be more of it than previously thought, so you can call (415) 362-3900 and ask for the Men's Perfume counter. Then ask for Michal (MEE-hahl) and request a bottle to be put aside for you.
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  5. #35

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Thanks for the tip, Jaime! I'll call and try to reserve one. *fingers crossed*
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  6. #36
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    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    At $170 (and considerably more for the Parfum), I don't think this is a wise blind-buy...
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  7. #37

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Thank you again, Jaime, for the update. I would love to sample and perhaps but, but a certain Geurlain must be sampled first...

    This came out today:

    http://www.nstperfume.com/2010/10/19...ew-fragrances/
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  8. #38
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    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Quote Originally Posted by PaulSC View Post
    At $170 (and considerably more for the Parfum), I don't think this is a wise blind-buy...
    If you are in San Francisco, the tester is at Neiman's men's fragrance counter... so people near the Bay Area at least don't have to buy blind...
    Yr good bud,

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  9. #39

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Superb coverage JB. Love this heritage house, too. Can't wait to try it.

  10. #40
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    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Quote Originally Posted by JaimeB View Post
    If you are in San Francisco, the tester is at Neiman's men's fragrance counter... so people near the Bay Area at least don't have to buy blind...
    I have tested it on my skin and reported my impressions upthread, but I didn't realize strifeknot was near the Bay Area.
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  11. #41

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Quote Originally Posted by JaimeB View Post
    A further update:

    The Houbigant rep tells me that the bottles have arrived in the United States and are awaiting customs clearance in New Jersey.
    Here's hoping they fall off the truck in Jersey and end up for sale at the bodega on my corner!
    Fingers crossed!
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  12. #42
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    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    count me as skeptical. the name was sold several times. houbigant became a cheap name. what company exactly is really behind all this?

    it would be interesting to compare, though. i have a bottle from the 1940-1950's. at that point, houbigant was still houbigant, and making quality stuff.

    the original smells fresh, with very much coumarin, and dirty at the same time, with natural civet. it's clearly intended as a masculine. and not very floral, not at all.. i don't know what all these floral notes are about.
    Last edited by gido; 20th October 2010 at 06:30 PM.

  13. #43
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    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Quote Originally Posted by gido View Post
    count me as skeptical. the name was sold several times. houbigant became a cheap name. what company exactly is really behind all this?

    it would be interesting to compare, though. i have a bottle from the 1940-1950's. at that point, houbigant was still houbigant, and making quality stuff.

    the original smells fresh, with very much coumarin, and dirty at the same time, with natural civet. it's clearly intended as a masculine. and not very floral, not at all.. i don't know what all these floral notes are about.
    The original (1882) might smell like it has no florals but it does contain them: geranium, orchid, heliotrope, carnation & rose. As do most fougeres.

  14. #44
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    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Quote Originally Posted by gido View Post
    What company exactly is really behind all this?
    I am wondering the same thing myself. Houbigant went into bankruptcy back in the 1990's and no longer exists as a perfume manufacturer. See this interesting article about the company: http://perfumeprojects.com/museum/ma...oubigant.shtml

  15. #45
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    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    The original (1882) might smell like it has no florals but it does contain them: geranium, orchid, heliotrope, carnation & rose. As do most fougeres.
    The aroma is not at all floral. The first impressions are bergamot, clary sage, and geranium, with the effect of coumarin and lavender on the mix being evident, but not separately detectable. Remember that the fougère and chypre accords don't smell like their constituent foundational parts, but that the fundamental materials create a new aromatic impression and are no longer distinctly discernible as individual notes. The character of fougères is more due to the materials added on top of the fougère accord than in the accord itself. This new release of Fougère Royale is unmistakably a fougère, and it is a green woody one, not a noticeably floral one. There is rose de mai, carnation, geranium, and an accord modeled on Rondeletia for floral notes, but these (as in many floral-dominated masculine perfume heart notes) are so balanced by other materials that they never come across as distinctly floral.

    If it will serve any useful purpose to those interested, here is the basic information about the present corporate identity of the company that owns the name:

    The Houbigant fragrances Quelques Fleurs (the first true multi-floral bouquet) and Quelques Fleurs Royale (which is based upon the formula created for Princess Adelaide D'Orleans) are now being manufactured under the original specifications by LOFT Fashion and Beauty Diffusion of Monaco and marketed in the United States by Exclusive Fragrances and Cosmetics. [wikipedia "Houbigant"]

    LOFT S.A.M.
    5 Avenue de Citronniers
    MC98000 MONACO
    Tel: +377.92.16.03.55

    The Perfume Projects article cited upthread has obviously not been updated to reflect this information.

    I found the company listed on Panjiva.com. The ownership information seems to be worth $49.99 to corporate financial types, but I don't have fifty dollars' worth of curiosity about them, so that's all I can give you. They have a website at http://www.houbigant-parfum.com/anglais/main.html with an email contact form. Anyone who wants to find out more can use it.

    The rep I know here in San Francisco says the new owners wish to revive the Houbigant reputation, at least for the patents they own. I think their getting a perfumer as good as Rodrigo Flores-Roux to do this and trying to make it as close in quality to the original as possible is some evidence of their earnestness. Otherwise, why would they put three Orpur products into it? That must be pretty darned expensive!
    Last edited by JaimeB; 20th October 2010 at 11:43 PM.
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  16. #46

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    I read on an older thread about Fougere Royale that Narciso Rodriguez For Him is a modern interpretation. Can anyone confirm this?

  17. #47
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    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Quote Originally Posted by Sub Zero View Post
    I read on an older thread about Fougere Royale that Narciso Rodriguez For Him is a modern interpretation. Can anyone confirm this?
    The notes I find for Narciso Rodriguez for Him are: Violet Leaf, White Musk, Amber, Patchouli.

    The classic fougère foundational accord is Lavender, Oakmoss, and Coumarin. According to that classical definition, it would seem that NR for Him is not a fougère by that standard. Fougère Royale lists only Patchouli in common with NR for Him, so I don't think the resemblance could be very close at all.

    This isn't to say that NR for Him isn't a good scent, of course, it just depends on how much of a stretch one is willing to accept between the original concept of fougère (of which the 1882 Fougère Royale was the prototype) and what constitutes a "modern fougère" in the mind of whoever classified NR for Him in that category. Personally, I don't see it.
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  18. #48
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    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    The original (1882) might smell like it has no florals but it does contain them: geranium, orchid, heliotrope, carnation & rose. As do most fougeres.
    i know. geranium is even part of the most basic fougere formula. but if it does not smell like <some flower> why put it in the notes list? this list is not an ingredient list, it is a list of (often imaginary) things you can smell in a perfume. this long list containing several flowers does not sound like fougere royale, it is not the way i would describe it.

  19. #49
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    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Quote Originally Posted by JaimeB View Post
    [FONT=Trebuchet MS][SIZE=3]The aroma is not at all floral. The first impressions are bergamot, clary sage, and geranium, with the effect of coumarin and lavender on the mix being evident, but not separately detectable. Remember that the fougère and chypre accords don't smell like their constituent foundational parts, but that the fundamental materials create a new aromatic impression and are no longer distinctly discernible as individual notes.
    my vintage fougere royale smells very, very much like coumarine. i have never smelled anything that came even close in the amount of coumarin used, it just leaps out at you. it is very obvious and unapologetic.

    thanks for the info about the company.

  20. #50

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Quote Originally Posted by JaimeB View Post
    The notes I find for Narciso Rodriguez for Him are: Violet Leaf, White Musk, Amber, Patchouli.

    The classic fougère foundational accord is Lavender, Oakmoss, and Coumarin. According to that classical definition, it would seem that NR for Him is not a fougère by that standard. Fougère Royale lists only Patchouli in common with NR for Him, so I don't think the resemblance could be very close at all.

    This isn't to say that NR for Him isn't a good scent, of course, it just depends on how much of a stretch one is willing to accept between the original concept of fougère (of which the 1882 Fougère Royale was the prototype) and what constitutes a "modern fougère" in the mind of whoever classified NR for Him in that category. Personally, I don't see it.
    Thanks for the clarification. I got a bit excited since I love NRFH. Which scent in 'your opinion' comes closest to Fourgere Royale?

  21. #51
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    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Quote Originally Posted by gido View Post
    my vintage fougere royale smells very, very much like coumarine. i have never smelled anything that came even close in the amount of coumarin used, it just leaps out at you. it is very obvious and unapologetic.
    The floral notes are in the mix and contribute a grace note, but don't dominate. They become a little more evident as it dries down. The carnation, of course, recalls cloves, and the geranium is greener than a true floral, but the rose de mai is about as floral things get in perfume.

    There is a distinct, prominent "new-mown hay" note, which is there throughout. This brings out the clary sage, the vetiver, and the geranium, and pulls the oakmoss out a bit from the fougère accord.

    Of course, this is not the original Fougère Royale. I'm not sure if the materials could even be sourced today as they were before, or that the IFRA regulations would permit its original proportions. All I can say is that this is a good one, and from what I have read about FR, it seems to be done in the same spirit. I said in my original post that it is at least as good as Patou pour Homme Privé, and as a green fougère, I think it does compare very favorably with pH Privé.

    If you're still looking for the original or anything very nearly the same as the old FR, this probably won't be close enough to satisfy you entirely. There's nothing I can do about that. I can only say that it's a very good old-style fougère to my nose.
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  22. #52
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    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Quote Originally Posted by JaimeB View Post
    [FONT=Trebuchet MS][SIZE=3]The classic fougère foundational accord is Lavender, Oakmoss, and Coumarin.
    i believe the complete classic definition is:
    - bergamot
    - lavender
    - geranium
    - vetiver
    - oakmoss absolute
    - tonka bean absolute
    - coumarin

    anyone who want to smell a truly classic fougere should try canoe. it can be found on ebay for cheap, but make sure you get the vintage. you can recognise this as they have a paper label and a white cap. it is rather different from fougere royale, though.

    you mention chypre and fougere, but did you know that in the past, there where actually two other categories? foin and trefle. they all had bergamot and oakmoss absolute, and several other ingredients could be found in more than one of these.

  23. #53
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    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    i have to say, in the end, i really hope that i am wrong, and that this new thing really does come close to the original. it's such a shame that it is lost!

    and i also really hope i my skepticism won't hurt anyone's enthusiasm in any way. if you like it, then that's great.
    Last edited by gido; 21st October 2010 at 06:06 AM.

  24. #54
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    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Quote Originally Posted by Sub Zero View Post
    Thanks for the clarification. I got a bit excited since I love NRFH. Which scent in 'your opinion' comes closest to Fourgere Royale?
    I'm reminded of a couple of scents, old green fougères, that are similar, but more overtly herbal: Jean Patou Pour Homme Privé (by Jean Kerléo) and Gucci Nobile, which is woodier than FR. Both these scents have been long discontinued. I don't know if the comparison will help you if you have never smelled them, but they are the only ones that are really reminiscent of FR to my nose.
    Last edited by JaimeB; 21st October 2010 at 02:24 PM.
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  25. #55
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    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Quote Originally Posted by gido View Post
    i believe the complete classic definition is:
    - bergamot
    - lavender
    - geranium
    - vetiver
    - oakmoss absolute
    - tonka bean absolute
    - coumarin

    anyone who want to smell a truly classic fougere should try canoe. it can be found on ebay for cheap, but make sure you get the vintage. you can recognise this as they have a paper label and a white cap. it is rather different from fougere royale, though.

    you mention chypre and fougere, but did you know that in the past, there where actually two other categories? foin and trefle. they all had bergamot and oakmoss absolute, and several other ingredients could be found in more than one of these.
    "Foin" is hay in French, and "Trèfle" is clover. I think it was Piver who made Trèfle Incarnat in 1898. Delbourg-Delphis credits this as the first synthetic with "a totally new odor," from amyl salicylate. Richard Stamelman, in his 2006 book Perfume refers to it, and calls it "a synthetic clover with a soft, sweet hay odor."

    Anyway, judging from your complete list of fougère notes, the new FR is complete. It contains all of them, except synthetic coumarin (but it does have an Orpur® tonka bean).

    A lot of perfume books want to make both chypre and fougère "tripods;" the chypres with bergamot, oakmoss, and labdanum (or patchouli), and the fougères with lavender, oakmoss, and coumarin. These are bare-bones descriptions, reducing them to the skeletal minimum of characteristic core notes. Of course, one could observe other "typical" notes in either, as you have in your more complete list.

    I do have a bottle of Jean Carles's Canoe, and as you say, it is a somewhat different take on fougère.
    Last edited by JaimeB; 21st October 2010 at 06:47 AM.
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  26. #56
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    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Wonderful to see all this interest in a classic fougere. I too have a bottle of the vintage version, and agree that it is certainly rich in courmarin.
    Easily available fougeres in a similar style are Geo. F. Trumper's Wild Fern and Penhaligon's English Fern. Also, Bois 1920 Extreme.
    May I put in a plug for the Fougerites social group here at basenotes? Cheers, ody
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  27. #57

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Quote Originally Posted by odysseusm View Post
    Wonderful to see all this interest in a classic fougere. I too have a bottle of the vintage version, and agree that it is certainly rich in courmarin.
    Easily available fougeres in a similar style are Geo. F. Trumper's Wild Fern and Penhaligon's English Fern. Also, Bois 1920 Extreme.
    May I put in a plug for the Fougerites social group here at basenotes? Cheers, ody
    Yes, thank you! The Fougerites group is here: http://www.basenotes.net/group.php?groupid=73

  28. #58

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    So Jaime, you wouldn't happen to have the scoop on when the rest of the country is going to get a whiff of all this fougere-goodness?
    “I wanna say something. I’m gonna put it out there. If you like it, you can take it, if you don’t, send it right back…."

  29. #59

    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Really, the basic accord for each genre can be stripped down to two components each: Fougere is the interplay between lavender and coumarin (or tonka as the case may be) and Chyphre is the interplay between bergamot and oakmoss. All other components are added to round out these very basic and classic accords... just my own personal opinion.

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    Default Re: Houbigant Fougère Royale: A first sniff from a tester

    Quote Originally Posted by mrclmind View Post
    Really, the basic accord for each genre can be stripped down to two components each: Fougere is the interplay between lavender and coumarin (or tonka as the case may be) and Chyphre is the interplay between bergamot and oakmoss. All other components are added to round out these very basic and classic accords... just my own personal opinion.
    Word! Nice to see you around here again!
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