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Thread: Lutens and Me

  1. #31

    Default Re: Lutens and Me

    Jenson, it's readily available here in Abu Dhabi. If you know someone going to india soon i can facilitate in attaining it.

  2. #32
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    Default Re: Lutens and Me

    I currently own full bottles of Fumerie Turque, Chergui, and Douce Amere but if money were no object I'd add full bottles of

    Datura Noir
    Gris Clair
    Un Bois Vanille
    Un Lys
    Iris Silver Mist
    Santal Blanc
    Mandarine Mandarin
    Fille en Aiguilles
    Rose de Nuit

    Same for these, but limping along on decants:
    Fleurs d'Oranger
    MKK
    Arabie
    Boxeuses

    I recently ran out of Ambre Sultan which I loved but strangely, I'm unsure about replacing it.

    Even though there are a couple I don't care for (Miel de Bois, Chypre Rouge, L'Eau) I love the Lutens aesthetic and always look forward to any new release with great anticipation.
    "I felt something so intense, I could only express it in a perfume." - Jacques Guerlain
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  3. #33

    Default Re: Lutens and Me

    I haven't been rubbed the wrong way by a Lutens fragrance yet.

  4. #34

    Default Re: Lutens and Me

    My favorites are La Myrrhe, Tubereuse Criminelle and Chêne.

  5. #35
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    Default Re: Lutens and Me

    I like this thread! So many beautiful Lutens to own and try...

    The ones I own and favor are:

    Borneo 1834: I had not had such love at first sniff for a fragrance. I never wanted to try it because I had read comparisons to Coromandel, which was not the best fit for me, but Borneo was heaven. I am glad Asha sprayed it on me at Scentbar. I just knew then I had to own some Borneo. It is complex patchouli, chocolatey without being gourmand.

    Douce Amere: This was my first Lutens. When I heard that Douce Amere was being pulled as an exclusive I bought a back-up bottle. It is a genius anise/licorice absinthe fragrance and an instant compliment getter. I can wear this all year long.

    Serge Noire: A big pot full of spices. I cannot spray this, since it is so potent, nor can I wear it to work, but I love to dab some late at night and just enjoy the smell.

    Fille en Aiguilles: The smell of fall in a pine forest. So lovely, not too sweet.

    5 o'clock au Gingembre: A very comforting scent. It is a nice companion at work or in any other setting. Although it is a bit gourmand, it is not sweet.

    Louve: Talk about a cherry bomb! but I love it. I don't own a full bottle, but a mini of this and I am sure it will last for a long time.

    Fleurs d'Oranger: I own a mini of this, and I am afraid to use it because I heard it has been reformulated. This is a very nice combination of oranges and spices, a dirty orange, but I find it super sexy.

    Chergui: I own a decant of this. Although it is comforting and lovely, it does not rock my world. I find something in common with Douce Amere, except that DA is bright and cheerful.

    I liked Ambre Sultan, Sa Majeste La Rose, and Daim Blonde. Probably a bottle of Daim Blonde is in my future. I am waiting for a sample of Boxeuses and I am looking forward to trying it. I also liked Vetyver Oriental. I wished I had bought it when I had the chance I am very intrigued by Rousse, since I love cinnamon. Another one I tried and liked recently was Fleurs de Citronnier.
    Evenstar

  6. #36

    Default Re: Lutens and Me

    As of yet I've only gotten to try Fumerie Turque and Chergui. Unfortunately I wasn't crazy about either of them. Fumerie Turque was just a light, slightly sweet tobacco. Chergui was very promising when I could smell it coming out of the vial, but ended up being too sweet. I get the sweetness in Tobacco Vanille and Ambre Narguile, because they both seem like syrupy rich fragrances. Chergui seems dry and thin, so it doesn't make sense to me. If it wasn't as sweet, I'd probably like it more.

    Despite these two, I'm still wanting to try more. Chêne, 5 o'clock au Gingembre, Un Bois Vanille, Vetiver Oriental, and Sarrasins all sound interesting. But I'd really like to go and try them all! Dried fruits and spices seem really common in most of the fragrances, and that sounds right up my alley. I'm sure I'll find a real winner in time.
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  7. #37
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    Default Re: Lutens and Me

    There are so many excellent reviews on this I can't help but chime in more love for some others...

    Sarrasins - This is still my reigning jasmine fragrance, despite going through an ( ongoing ) tour of all the available jasmine soliflores this year. Like Criminelle it exploits a hot-cold contrast but here it's more subtle; cool to warm, starting out as a smooth, airy jasmine and then becoming fleshy and animalic, without being an indole-bomb like A La Nuit.

    Fille En Aiguilles - My favorite pine fragrance, easily my favorite gourmand too. That it combines these in one fragrance eminently lovable! Of the "Sheldrake syrup" creations, this one is my favorite; far more than Arabie, a fragrance which I find much more extroverted than this. The pine adds a much needed context to the sweet spices, and becomes surprisingly non-sweet half-way through its development.

    Sa Majeste La Rose - a truly wonderful "green" rose, very fresh and alive-smelling. Perfect for when I crave a natural rose.

    As an aside though, this is the fragrance that really confirmed the variability of skin chemistry. It really smells like rubber boots on my mother! Such a shame, as she liked it.

    Arabie always makes me smile. It's not something I want to own, but it's so excessively excessive its an "experience", like a three-way between a chicken korma, a pumpkin pie, and mincemeat.

    A La Nuit I respect but just find too severe on the nostrils. It's so searing it actually smells more clean than dirty to my nose, almost sudsy. If someone asks what "indolic jasmine" smells like, though, one can just point someone in the direction of this.

    Mandarine Mandarin is slightly underpowered but delightfully odd. Citrus without any tang or sparkle melded with celery, amber, and the florals from Fleurs d'Oranger. Yeah, it's weird - but good. A bit of a sleeper, I'd say.

    Nuit de Cellophane and L'Eau were big disappointments for me, I'll admit. Nuit is a bland fruity osmanthus and L'Eau is fresh and clean, more washed-out than freshly laundered.

    Fumerie Turque just baffles me. It goes on like burnt, sweet patchouli and then does absolutely nothing until it dies off the next day. I found it strangely flat for a Lutens, completely lacking the depth and complexity I expect in the line and find even in ones I don't like ( like Bois de Violette ).

  8. #38

    Default Re: Lutens and Me

    Testing Fille en Aiguilles today and really enjoying it. Could this be the first Lutens that I truly pine for? (har har ). I think it does the incense/fir/fruit thing far better than Wazamba. This scent has a very realistic sap note that I am loving.
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  9. #39

    Default Re: Lutens and Me

    I own A La Nuit and Douce Amere. I love the indolic jasmine of A La Nuit, and I suppose it would be criminal to wish for even more out of it? Douce Amere struck me as the first perfume I smelled that manages to be sweet and rich but also sheer. The anise/absinthe make a perfect dry counterpoint to the syrup. I don't usually "do" woody fragrances, but the balance here is perfect.

    I sampled Arabie, but I couldn't stomach the curry vibes. I love curry, just not to wear.

    But Ambre Sultan is my favorite so far. It makes me smile. This stuff smells exactly like an incense I found years ago at a Renaissance Festival: Old Hill Woman's Gypsy incense. I loved it and squeezed months of enjoyment out of my little packet. Never thought I'd smell that again; it was heavenly.

    Four down, how many left to sample?
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  10. #40

    Default Re: Lutens and Me

    I have full bottles of Gris Clair... and Chêne. I just ordered a large decant of Muscs Koublaï Khän, though I would like a full bottle one of these days. For some reason I want this in a bell jar! LOL

    The others I am eyeing to buy are Borneo 1834, Douce Amère and Un Lys.

    Some of the more popular ones I actively dislike, such as Ambre Sultan, or am indifferent to, such as Chergui.
    I don't know much about medicine, but I know what I like. -- S.J. Perelman
    Currently wearing: Royal Mayfair by Creed

  11. #41

    Default Re: Lutens and Me

    it's such a treat going through all these reviews. i truly appreciate everyones contribution. Would be splendid to hear more chime in.

    Any lutens release that never gets talked about? Mandarin Mandarin is one such scent i believe which doesnt get much attention (as mentioned above)

  12. #42

    Default Re: Lutens and Me

    Any lutens release that never gets talked about? Mandarin Mandarin is one such scent i believe which doesnt get much attention (as mentioned above)
    I worn it a few times but it's a bit special... I get some "china food" and a bubbly effect, smell a coriander note with a bitter orange peel, crystallized mandarine. Recall me a little Fleurs d'oranger but more masculine and an asian version.

    Cuir Mauresque is the Lutens leather for me, but unwearable in summer. I nearly ruined this one for me by wearing it once this summer.
    I did the same mistake with Ambre Sultan on a very very hot day, smelled really awful and was a radiant horror..

    Actually i'm in Miel de bois and Cuir Mauresque with the return of coldness.
    Last edited by Mon-Petit; 18th October 2010 at 06:59 PM.

  13. #43

    Default Re: Lutens and Me

    Quote Originally Posted by jenson View Post
    Any lutens release that never gets talked about? Mandarin Mandarin is one such scent i believe which doesnt get much attention (as mentioned above)
    Rousse: Cinnamon is the main attraction here but I don't like Rousse very much. Although I own a bottle, it's one of the Lutens I like the least and I consider it unwearable for me. It's kind of pungent and it leans very much on the feminin side, in my opinion.

  14. #44
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    Default Re: Lutens and Me

    Quote Originally Posted by SculptureOfSoul View Post
    Testing Fille en Aiguilles today and really enjoying it. Could this be the first Lutens that I truly pine for? (har har ). I think it does the incense/fir/fruit thing far better than Wazamba. This scent has a very realistic sap note that I am loving.
    Oh yes, it really does smell like you've gotten some sticky sap on your hands (from a fresh cut tree) and your body heat makes the sap smolder on your skin. I love that part of FeA.

  15. #45
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    Default Re: Lutens and Me

    Quote Originally Posted by jenson View Post
    it's such a treat going through all these reviews. i truly appreciate everyones contribution. Would be splendid to hear more chime in.

    Any lutens release that never gets talked about? Mandarin Mandarin is one such scent i believe which doesnt get much attention (as mentioned above)
    Have you smelled MM jenson? It's such an odd scent. I'm not sure if I like it yet (and everyone knows how I love odd scents). I think I need a decant to really wrap my head around this one.

  16. #46

    Default Re: Lutens and Me

    Hey Mike, i havent sampled MM but, i did sample Fleur d'Oranger and jeez, it's sushine squeezed into a bottle. it's so bright and effervescent! so, in a way, i can relate to the reviews on MM..however, im sure it'd be something radically different as i havent come across any lutens which smells similar.

  17. #47

    Default Re: Lutens and Me

    I don't think it's radically different than others Lutens, it's again based on crystallized fruit (his typical style). The changing is for the region, we are moving to extreme easter orient.

  18. #48
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    Default Re: Lutens and Me

    Quote Originally Posted by jenson View Post
    Any lutens release that never gets talked about?
    Bois Oriental comes to mind. It's not a love of mine, but it's really quite nice fragrance - a rich, woody, nutmeg-cedar combination. It's the only one of the rather extensive Bois series I like.

    Since I've covered nearly all the line I've tried, I might as well add the rest.

    Fourreau Noir is fragrance that I dismissed at first but really enjoyed recently. There is absolutely nothing special about the accord but it's [i]beautiful[/b], a subtle, spicy-fruit-gourmand touch added to a staunchly traditional fougere. It's subtle and conservative so I can see some finding it anti-Lutens, but a good fragrance is a good fragrance, even if it's weirdly uncharacteristic for the house.

    Vetiver Oriental is rich and warm and delightful, taking vetiver and iris into a surprisingly serene territory considering the powerfully rooty accords they can be.

    Rahat Loukoum is just screetchily sweet and girlish, not my thing at all. It is realistic, though, so I can't fault it on that. Says it's candy; is candy.

    Un Bois Sepia is perhaps the least charismatic of the Bois series. I find it neither offensive nor remarkable but certainly wearable.

    Serge Noir frustrates me no end. It has a burnt smell, kind of roasted nutmeg ( but nothing like Bois Oriental ), rather resinous and almost smoky. Then it turns into a soft, soft, cedar note that lurks around the skin for a few hours. I love the top notes, but it needs a bigger bottom!

    Un Lys I do enjoy but could do it being a little less wan and melancholic. Like Sa Majeste it kind of stands to one side of the Lutens style; surprisingly transparent. It smells nice on paper but kind of droops on me. I prefer the more lively Malle lily.

    Datura Noir conjures up some floral from the black lagoon, but is really the Lutens ode to sunscreen. I enjoy it but I'm not moved to own it. I'm just not that much of a beach bunny!

    Clair de Musc suffers from too many succesful rivals. It's a really nice smelling white musk, no doubt, but I find the Body Shop's White Musk just as nice and awfully close.

    As an aside, there's really not much you can do to make a white musk accord smell original all on its own. I think Mr. Ford's been-there, smelled-that White Musk series only highlighted that.

    Gris Clair is a great fougere, but I've only worn it once, so I'm not sure I can really review it yet. I want to wear it more.

    Cuir Mauresque is a leather very much in the vein of Knize Ten and REL. Like both of those, an accord I enjoy is spoiled by a peculiar soapy accord that's a common reaction of my skin to a certain animalic accord. Other than that, it's an enjoyable spicy leather ( one that I can enjoy on paper alone! )

    Chene is lovely, another one I really enjoyed and need to get around to again. I don't find it as linear and woody as most find it; I almost get a boozy-candied quality in the top, but enjoyably so. It's a rum-raisin forest, though somehow utterly different from Fille En Aiguilles candied pine trees.

    Bormeo 1834 is a very pleasant patchouli-chocolate but I can't find much else to say about it. It is what it is! ( A phrase I know many Basenoters hate, but what can I do with a patchouli chocolate bar - it's tasty, it's fun, it's not much else. )

    Daim Blond smells like Lutens does shampoo. I'm not fond of it - too fruity, too sweet, no leather.

    Looking at the list of Serge's fragrances, the only ones I've never sniffed in any form are Santal de Mysore, Un Bois Vanille, Bois et Musc, and the two new ones, Bas de Soie and Boxeuses. I also really want to retest Encens et Lavande, Douce Amère, Russe, and Louve, as I've only smelled them in passing.

  19. #49
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    Default Re: Lutens and Me

    Quote Originally Posted by jenson View Post
    Hey Mike, i havent sampled MM but, i did sample Fleur d'Oranger and jeez, it's sushine squeezed into a bottle. it's so bright and effervescent! so, in a way, i can relate to the reviews on MM..however, im sure it'd be something radically different as i havent come across any lutens which smells similar.
    I find MM and FdO very different. Both have something to offer, but one is candied, sweet & strange while the other is floral, crisp and bright. Nonetheless, I like Fleurs de Citronnier better than Fleur d'Oranger. The sparkling effervescent lemon blossoms are just giggle-inducing. Makes me smile just thinking about it.

  20. #50

    Default Re: Lutens and Me

    So far the only Lutens fragrance that I found to be without merit is Santal Blanc.

  21. #51
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    Default Re: Lutens and Me

    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin Guyer View Post
    So far the only Lutens fragrance that I found to be without merit is Santal Blanc.
    Ditto on Santal Blanc. It smells like an ingredient more than a fragrance on me; sweet nothingness.

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    I find MM and FdO very different. Both have something to offer, but one is candied, sweet & strange while the other is floral, crisp and bright. Nonetheless, I like Fleurs de Citronnier better than Fleur d'Oranger. The sparkling effervescent lemon blossoms are just giggle-inducing. Makes me smile just thinking about it.
    Fleurs de Citronnier goes all soapy on me, but on my mother it smells great. Lemon blossoms, then... an ode to lemon cheesecake.

    I like Fleurs d'Oranger, I just wish it had more oomph.

  22. #52
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    Default Re: Lutens and Me

    Ambre Sultan- Smells way too much like Play-doh for my liking, then again I'm not the biggest amber fan so maybe that has something to do with it

    Bas de Soie- Kind of boring if you ask me, smells like ultra fancy soap.

    Borneo 1834- Smells good, I like the chocolate note in it, nothing special though in my mind

    Chergui- LOVE this one, blind bought it because I found a good deal on it online and haven't regret it yet. I usually don't go for gourmand fragrances, but damn this is classy in all the right ways! Near the end pretty much all it smells like is straight up brown sugar, but it takes about five hours to get there, so no real complaints here.

    Chene- All I get out of this is pine tree sap and the chips you put in hamsters cage. Not for me though I could see how others would like it.

    Cuir Mauresque- While I did like this one it's not something I would personally wear. Honestly I think this would be best on a classy, middle aged, woman dressed up for a night on the town.

    Feminite du Bois- I actually quite like this one, the pine and sweet notes balance each other nicely, I find my nose on my wrist quite often when I reach for this sample.

    Fumerie Turque- Tied with Chergui for my favorite, so honeyed and sweet with great tobacco notes, really should only be worn in cold weather in my opinion though.

    Santal de Mysore- Just smells like syrupy sandalwood to me, pleasant enough but probably the most boring out of all the SL's I've tried so far

    Serge Noir- Tried this one for the first time yesterday. Absolutely disgusting, it may literally be my most despised fragrance to date. Smells like a pile of wet dog fur thats been sitting for a week that someone decided to throw gasoline on and burn on a hot summer day. My stomach is turning over just thinking about this one.

    Vetiver Oriental- I liiikke this one, incredibly unique take on vetiver, and the way it's blended makes it smell very classy and mature. Never gets overly sweet like some SL's.

  23. #53

    Default Re: Lutens and Me

    Bois et Fruits An aerial and lighter version of Féminité du bois. A great typical Lutens fruity scent , slightly spiced and woody, pleasantly sweet. I have the impression to smell a real juicy nectarine and peachs in syrup..however the lasting on the skin is poor, it's discret.

    El Attarine This is an amazing oriental using all the Lutenesque codes. If you enjoy Arabie (and the sandalwood) you can't go wrong with this one! In fact it was created before the 2008 release, as an homage of the Lutens oriental inspiration.
    I particulary get: cumin, oriental spices, candied apricot, date, woods (santal). On my skin it can even recall Bois et Fruits, on other skin i had the impression to smell Santal de Mysore, depend wich side your skin develop! For me it's the ultimate scent for smelling oriental souk and get transported to north Africa.

  24. #54

    Default Re: Lutens and Me

    Bois et musc: I don't know why but the first time i smelled it i immediatly made a connection with Chanel - Egoïste (i have worn it in my teens). It's an elegant and muffled Féminité du bois. A little too quiet for my tastes, i rather prefer Bois Oriental. It's a Bois but treated in a more classic, balanced and maybe wearable for somes who are a little afraid with the overdoses of spices or candied fruits but still love the Lutens - Féminité du bois base.

  25. #55

    Default Re: Lutens and Me

    I have the same relationship with Serge Lutens as I do with L'Artisan fragrances. I appreciate many of them, but not to the point where I'd actually buy anything from the line. I keep drifting back to Chergui, I am enchanted by the opening, but I find it's constant sweetness slightly sickly after a while and wish I wasn't wearing it. Same with Ambre Sultan to be honest, which I enjoy for a short while and then wish it would go away as it becomes something of a rather loud one trick pony.

    It's a line that I feel I should enjoy, but just don't, which frustrates me somewhat.
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