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  1. #1

    Default Which reformulated fragrances are essentially DIFFERENT from the original?

    I thought this would be a good sharing thread for those who depend almost solely on eBay & other online sites for their perfume supplies.

    The ones I have found out(which most former fans agree on) in the last 2 months are :

    Mitsouko, Opium, Cabochard, Secret de Venus, Chanel No. 19, Miss Dior, Le Tabac Blond

    I would avoid buying any newer editions of the above or any others.

    Anymore to add to the list?

  2. #2

    Default Re: Which reformulated fragrances are essentially DIFFERENT from the original?

    Vent Vert, without question. Dune's vintage version is better, but only if you already know and love the original. The new Dune is still one of the best fragrances out there. Actually, several reformulations fall into this category; not bad if you're not dead-familiar with the original.
    Science is not only compatible with spirituality, it is a profound source of spirituality. When we recognize our place in an immensity of light-years and in the passage of ages, when we grasp the intricacy, beauty, and subtlety of life, then that soaring feeling, that sense of elation and humility combined, is surely spiritual. ..Carl Sagan

  3. #3

    Default Re: Which reformulated fragrances are essentially DIFFERENT from the original?

    There are SO many, some drastic, some just the usual minor changes...
    Maybe you want to keep an alphabetical list, because this could be vast!

    Thinking of those that are so different the names should be changed :

    Chloe
    l'Air du Temps
    "You...put on cologne to write?"(From Midnight in Paris)

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  4. #4

    Default Re: Which reformulated fragrances are essentially DIFFERENT from the original?

    Shalimar in the batwing bottle is one to totally avoid if you love Shalimar.
    DONNA

  5. #5

    Default Re: Which reformulated fragrances are essentially DIFFERENT from the original?

    Quote Originally Posted by donna255 View Post
    Shalimar in the batwing bottle is one to totally avoid if you love Shalimar.
    Really?The colour is similar to the EDC of the '80s but apparently a lot of ppl still think it's great.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Which reformulated fragrances are essentially DIFFERENT from the original?

    Well,you know I'm going to +1 on the Shalimar,though I still find the current formulation a lot more pleasant than some other things out there!Would also add Halston,not the same,but still nice.Heaven Sent was a drugstore cheapie I used to adore that was completely wrecked by reformulation.On the flip side,I was happy to find Ivoire de Balmain has withstood reformulation beautifully,thanks to a recent purchase of a large bottle from Walgreen's website(for only $26.99US!).
    The nose wants what it wants!

  7. #7
    Hillaire
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    Default Re: Which reformulated fragrances are essentially DIFFERENT from the original?

    I am going to highlight the ones that I feel have utterly lost their character, and that moreover strike me as really painful. I cringe and weep as I type and conjure these devastations. Sorry for redundancies.

    Balmain Vent Vert
    Boucheron Boucheron
    Cacharel Anais Anais
    Cartier Must
    Cartier Santos
    Carven Ma Griffe
    Chanel Antaeus
    Chanel Cristalle
    Chanel No 19
    Chanel Pour Monsieur
    Dior Diorella
    Dior Dioressence
    Dior Diorissimo
    Dior Eau Sauvage
    Givenchy Gentleman
    Givenchy Ysatis
    Gres Cabochard
    Guerlain Habit Rouge
    Hermes Bel Ami
    Hermes Caleche
    Hermes Eau d'Hermes
    Houbigant Quelques Fleurs
    Jean Patou Joy
    Jean Patou Sublime
    Montana Parfum de Peau
    Nina Ricci L'Air du Temps
    Rochas Lumiere
    VC&F First
    VC&F Van Cleef
    YSL Rive Gauche
    Yves Rocher Ispahan
    Last edited by Hillaire; 20th October 2010 at 02:28 AM.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Which reformulated fragrances are essentially DIFFERENT from the original?

    Thanks so much for the list!

    Joy & Sublime too? Sad...

    I've been tempted to buy Ispahan a couple of times because of the cool urn-like bottle but looks like I'll pass on this one.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Which reformulated fragrances are essentially DIFFERENT from the original?

    Shiseido Murasaki is a completely different fragrance.

    Maybe because I got to know them first -- I like the current Mitsouko edp and Channel 19 edt.
    (it's not that I think they're better -- I just like them.)
    (perhaps in a way I'm lucky not to have known, and therefore not have to mourn, many of the classics...)

  10. #10

    Default Re: Which reformulated fragrances are essentially DIFFERENT from the original?

    I LIKE the Calice Becker 1990 Vent Vert AND the current Cabochard EDP! And I'm afraid to smell the originals, because I would hate to have these two lovely and very affordable perfumes spoiled for me forever ... sometimes ignorance really is bliss.
    This scent is great, but ... MORE KITTENS!

  11. #11
    Hillaire
    Guest

    Default Re: Which reformulated fragrances are essentially DIFFERENT from the original?

    Quote Originally Posted by domperrier View Post
    Thanks so much for the list!

    Joy & Sublime too? Sad...

    I've been tempted to buy Ispahan a couple of times because of the cool urn-like bottle but looks like I'll pass on this one.
    Well, if it's the urn bottle, it's the vintage.

  12. #12

    Default Re: Which reformulated fragrances are essentially DIFFERENT from the original?

    Quote Originally Posted by C Rose View Post
    Shiseido Murasaki is a completely different fragrance.

    Maybe because I got to know them first -- I like the current Mitsouko edp and Channel 19 edt.
    (it's not that I think they're better -- I just like them.)

    (perhaps in a way I'm lucky not to have known, and therefore not have to mourn, many of the classics...)
    I have vintage Mitsuoko EDC and current Mitsu EDT... I like them both! The new Mitsu seems a bit "sharper" than the older but the feeling is the same. Lush, fruity, lovely. I have a vintage Mitsuoko EDT that in actuality does not seem as nice as the current EDt, but... as a decant who knows about the quality of the juice?

    And Chanel No. 19, the same thing. I have a vintage decant and a modern EDT and love them both equally.

    Habit Rouge EDP in the red leather is VERY NICE and compares well to the EDC vintage which is lighter as a cologne...

    I can't comment on the modern Vent Vert as I have a good version of that scent...

    ...and I can say that Ma Griffe (EDT) in vintage is different from the reformulation, while both have their good qualities i think the vintage DOES trump the modern. (honestly though wearing them both at the same time brings out the best qualities of each!)

    Chanel Pour Monsieur I have not smelled in vintage form, the modern seems a bit too light with minimum sillage and longevity, so I'm sure that the vintage MUST be better.

    Poison's modern formulation is grape koolaid and bug spray compared to the vintage.

    Actias luna has spoken!
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  13. #13

    Default Re: Which reformulated fragrances are essentially DIFFERENT from the original?

    These in my experience.

    Chanel Cristalle - What on earth happened to this? Modern is not recognizable when compared to vintage.

    Chanel Cuir de Russie - utterly different, used to be a much darker, more leathery. Now green, fresh, mildly leathery.

    Caron Poivre - completely different, not recognizable at all.

    Caron Farnesiana - majorly different, still a few notes in common, weird new note added ( big banana-y ylang ).

    Caron Tabac Blond - majorly different, stripped of ambery character.

    Dior Poison - different but recognizable, stripped of its ambery-musky qualities, and more sweet and grapey.

    I'm sure I'll think of more...

  14. #14
    Hillaire
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    Default Re: Which reformulated fragrances are essentially DIFFERENT from the original?

    Quote Originally Posted by C Rose View Post
    Shiseido Murasaki is a completely different fragrance.

    Maybe because I got to know them first -- I like the current Mitsouko edp and Channel 19 edt.
    (it's not that I think they're better -- I just like them.)
    (perhaps in a way I'm lucky not to have known, and therefore not have to mourn, many of the classics...)
    Murasaki is another tragedy!; the latest version is almost like water. And it's hard to find the vintage bottles!

  15. #15

    Default Re: Which reformulated fragrances are essentially DIFFERENT from the original?

    Quote Originally Posted by Hillaire View Post
    Murasaki is another tragedy!; the latest version is almost like water. And it's hard to find the vintage bottles!
    My mum has a gold-plated solid perfume pendant of Murasaki complete with box that she got in the early 80s.

    It lies neglected in a jumble of paraphernalia in one of her dresser drawers.

  16. #16
    Hillaire
    Guest

    Default Re: Which reformulated fragrances are essentially DIFFERENT from the original?

    Quote Originally Posted by domperrier View Post
    My mum has a gold-plated solid perfume pendant of Murasaki complete with box that she got in the early 80s.

    It lies neglected in a jumble of paraphernalia in one of her dresser drawers.
    Oh, if that was my mom's I'd beg her for it! Do you think she'd give it to you, if she's neglecting it, she might.

  17. #17

    Default Re: Which reformulated fragrances are essentially DIFFERENT from the original?

    Quote Originally Posted by Hillaire View Post
    Oh, if that was my mom's I'd beg her for it! Do you think she'd give it to you, if she's neglecting it, she might.
    I would, but I doubt the solid perfume smells much like the fluid one...

    Of course, the thought of buying it from her to resell it on eBay has crossed my mind lol

    This would help to finance my current vintage-buying binge!

  18. #18

    Default Re: Which reformulated fragrances are essentially DIFFERENT from the original?

    All of the chypres. What a pity! My favorite category.

  19. #19

    Default Re: Which reformulated fragrances are essentially DIFFERENT from the original?

    A neighbor recently asked me about Arpege. She wore it in her youth, and saw a bottle in The Vermont Country Store Catalog but hesitated because the bottle was different than she remembered. I have the vintage and new versions and let her try them both. The reformulated version bears little resemblance to the original.

    Its always precious to see peoples reactions when they discover that perfume companies reformulate perfumes beyond recognition. It's worse than telling a child there is no Santa Claus!

  20. #20

    Default Re: Which reformulated fragrances are essentially DIFFERENT from the original?

    I have to say that I disagree on Mitsouko. The reformulation really is as successful and faithful to the original as possible, given that one of the most important ingredients (oakmoss) has been severely restricted. I think it's important to note successful reformulations wherever possible, to distinguish them from ghastly ones.

  21. #21

    Default Re: Which reformulated fragrances are essentially DIFFERENT from the original?

    And on the subject of TERRIBLE reformations that are nothing like the wonderful originals:

    Goutal, Eau de Hadrien
    Dior, Dolce Vita

  22. #22

    Default Re: Which reformulated fragrances are essentially DIFFERENT from the original?

    And on the subject of TERRIBLE reformations that are nothing like the wonderful originals:

    Goutal, Eau de Hadrien
    Dior, Dolce Vita

  23. #23
    Un profumo affettuoso
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    Default Re: Which reformulated fragrances are essentially DIFFERENT from the original?

    The following reformulations are inacceptable and a distortion of the original:

    Magie Noire/Lancome
    O de Lancome
    Parfum Sacré/Caron
    Dioressence/Dior
    Climat/Lancome
    Opium (in the new bottle!)/YSL
    Caleche/Hermes
    Amazone/Hermes
    Givenchy III
    Madame Rochas
    Paloma Picasso
    L'Air du temps(Nina Ricci)

    Btw: Hillaire's list is brilliant, totally agree with her.

  24. #24

    Default Re: Which reformulated fragrances are essentially DIFFERENT from the original?

    I find the vintage fragrances are quite masculine compared to the syrupy, overly-sweet modern fragrances. So the classics get 'reformulated' for the modern buyer. It's terrible! I was devastated by what they've done to Vent Vert and Tabac Blond

  25. #25

    Default Re: Which reformulated fragrances are essentially DIFFERENT from the original?

    Gucci Envy for Men has been reformulated into a blue-green juice with a sharp greenish scent. The drydown is still nice, but nothing like the yellow juice was, which wasn't a green scent at all but instead a deep warm spicy one.

  26. #26

    Default Re: Which reformulated fragrances are essentially DIFFERENT from the original?

    I disagree about Tabac Blond. The current extrait does not smell essentially different to my nose from the vintage extrait sample from TPC. Anyone wanting to convince me with his sample?

  27. #27
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    Default

    Mitsouko - I feel the new formulation is very good.The heart of Mitsouko remains true though the rest has altered somewhat . I am not a fan of the extra iris in the extract version .

    Miss Dior - more or less the same but minus the deep lasting dry down - I feel the dry down is mostly patchouli and vetiver.

    Chanel No 19 - this to me is significantly different in character from what I owned some 15 odd years ago I feel a lot of it's individual character has been taken away & watered down. It's still a wonderful scent but not the 'Madame ' she once was.

    All in all the main issue -for me - with all the above- is loss of depth & velvety feel to these scents. I can say all 3 dry downs of the above ( new versions ) speak greatly of vetiver and seem similar to me - which is probably a reason why I'm drawn to all three.
    To be dramatic - it's as if these fragrances have had their frontal lobes removed - a certain amount of taming has occurred . Still I'm wearing these perfumes -I do still love them.
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  28. #28
    Un profumo affettuoso
    Guest

    Default Re: Which reformulated fragrances are essentially DIFFERENT from the original?

    Quote Originally Posted by Mimi Gardenia View Post

    All in all the main issue -for me - with all the above- is loss of depth & velvety feel to these scents. I can say all 3 dry downs of the above ( new versions ) speak greatly of vetiver and seem similar to me - which is probably a reason why I'm drawn to all three.
    To be dramatic - it's as if these fragrances have had their frontal lobes removed - a certain amount of taming has occurred .
    Dear Mimi Gradenia,
    just wanted to pay you accompliment for expressing the core issue so well - loss of depth and velvety feel - "tamed" fragrances indeed. So true!

  29. #29

    Default Re: Which reformulated fragrances are essentially DIFFERENT from the original?

    I wonder why it's the chypre category that has suffered so much? From the sounds of it on this forum, there is still a big market for the original formulas. The reformulations seem so thin and flat, just as Mimi Gardenia says

  30. #30

    Default Re: Which reformulated fragrances are essentially DIFFERENT from the original?

    Quote Originally Posted by Mrs H View Post
    I wonder why it's the chypre category that has suffered so much? From the sounds of it on this forum, there is still a big market for the original formulas. The reformulations seem so thin and flat, just as Mimi Gardenia says
    About that specific category, most of the complaints come from the banning of Oakmoss in many countries, which was the ingredient that gave all Chypre perfumes the specific aroma that made them be part of that category, and the fact that the alleged first chypre (Chypre by Coty) had as a main ingredient and base said Oakmoss.
    Oakmoss has been banned in many coutries since because of Law and Health issue regulations.

    On most other perfumes, everything has been changed thanks to the massive regulatory requirements in perfumery because some industries claim that they (the scents) have allergens (both botanical and non-botanical) that can possibly harm a person. These allegations are backed by dubious clinical studies funded by the very companies that after the future bannings are the sole distributors of new "improved non allergenic" synthetic compounds that can be used in perfumery after the greenlighting by government agencies that now have a better PR reputation because they "protect the people".

    In the olden days, reformulations were not done like now (clinical studies, alleged health issues etc) but the few times it was done, it was mainly out of whim of the new owner of a company, or because of tremendous shortage of a certain ingredient, and in the latter cases, the company preferred forgo production for a while until the ingredient became available once again instead of alienating the "fan base" of a scent; or the reformulation was done because the scent didn't perform as well as expeted and they decided to change either the name, the ingredients or the overall creation/promotion/ect and start all over again.

    there are many other different cases but writing about it gets me down! there are even lists of ingredients "recommended to be banned" that come up every year and are taken into consideration...i won't even mention what those ingredients are...in 2003 there was one major list that came about but the list of ingredients were later on decided not to be banned -thankfully.


    cheers

  31. #31

    Default Re: Which reformulated fragrances are essentially DIFFERENT from the original?

    Thank you castorpollux! That is so interesting- you really know your stuff! Oakmoss is my favourite so that's sad news....

  32. #32

    Default Re: Which reformulated fragrances are essentially DIFFERENT from the original?

    Bellodgia is dramatically different. The former is a dark, musty carnation, and the latter is a sparkling floral carnation, a far less glamorous but more joyful scent.

    The Exclusifs version of No. 22 edt is quite a bit lighter on the aldehydes.

    Tabu is much sweeter nowadays, a tad less skanky (say the vintage is a 10 on the scale o' skank, the new is just an 8 ) but just as loud; not quite as rich.

    Long Lost Perfume's version of My Sin is as Mimi described-- tamer and less velvety. Like oakmoss, real civet/castoreum/musk/whatev adds incomparable and inimitable depth, but I, too, enjoy and love a lot of the reissues-- some more than the originals. I will also add that, had I not tried the original My Sin and been blown away, I would think the new one is the cat's meow. As it is, it's still pretty darned tasty.
    Wear your reforms with pride, man! Even the "worst" ones are better than most the recent offerings.

  33. #33

    Default Re: Which reformulated fragrances are essentially DIFFERENT from the original?

    This is splitting hairs, maybe, but how many of us can really compare "original" versions of very old fragrances like Shalimar, Mitsouko et al, to the current versions? Are we not, in most cases, actually talking of reformulations of those fragrances, ranging from 50's-60's to 90's versions of them? What do we know of the differences between, say, a 20's Mitsouko and a 60's Mitsouko? There are bound to have been several reformulations and versions between them, I suspect, and perhaps the differences are as great as between the current and the 60's version.

    Also, I still can't help wondering if fragrance matures, just as wines do; if there are significant differences in smell between the 60's Mitsouko when it was fresh and the 60's Mitsouko today, if it has been well stored and is still in good shape. Any takers? I know that some of the raw materials do mature and evolve, notably some base notes.

  34. #34

    Default Re: Which reformulated fragrances are essentially DIFFERENT from the original?

    I've considered both your thoughts, too, Pimpinett. Every new batch is based on what natural resources are available; the advent of synthetics make things more uniform throughout the years, right? But even as perfumers follow an exact formula, there are bound to be slight differences throughout the years. The winery we used for our wedding has yet to put out a Riesling as sweet as the one from that year.

    I don't know if it is my skin, but the vintages I've tried are far less floral and more animalic, so maybe floral notes don't last as long, while animalic notes get darker and dirtier. I've wondered if the mustiness I get from so many is a spoiled or turning animalic or oakmoss note. I can say that my vintage Bellodgia was from the 1950s, the Tabu was likely late 70s or 80s. No. 22 wasn't too terribly old; I got it from TPC and it is not considered vintage, but it it not the Exclusifs, either.

  35. #35
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    Default Re: Which reformulated fragrances are essentially DIFFERENT from the original?

    Quote Originally Posted by Pimpinett View Post
    This is splitting hairs, maybe, but how many of us can really compare "original" versions of very old fragrances like Shalimar, Mitsouko et al, to the current versions? Are we not, in most cases, actually talking of reformulations of those fragrances, ranging from 50's-60's to 90's versions of them? What do we know of the differences between, say, a 20's Mitsouko and a 60's Mitsouko? There are bound to have been several reformulations and versions between them, I suspect, and perhaps the differences are as great as between the current and the 60's version.

    Also, I still can't help wondering if fragrance matures, just as wines do; if there are significant differences in smell between the 60's Mitsouko when it was fresh and the 60's Mitsouko today, if it has been well stored and is still in good shape. Any takers? I know that some of the raw materials do mature and evolve, notably some base notes.
    Mr. G and Sorcery Of Scent will know the best answer, Pimpinett. I know Mitsouko has varied in smell through the decades . Also Mitsouko doesn't age as well as Shalimar etc .


    {Though I have older Mitsouko vintage extrait and cologne ( probably 60s,70s and 80s ) - the difference I spoke of in Mitsouko - for me - is mainly the loss of depth and that woody velvet background ( from the missing/ minute amounts of included oakmoss ) .
    I actually enjoy new Mitsouko for what it is but I lament the loss of that special extra 'something ' oakmoss brought to it ( and also to other chypres )
    Comparing EDP manufactured in the early 2000s to the latest jus - the difference in depth is quite great. }
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  36. #36

    Default Re: Which reformulated fragrances are essentially DIFFERENT from the original?

    BTW, my new Tabac Blond has evernia prunastri (oakmoss) extract listed.

    I think a lot of the above considerations are very valid. There have probably always been numerous reformulations and variations, but nothing has probably reached the effect of the allergy-frenzy of the EU. I have e.g. various Scandal extrait bottles from different decades I think. The differences are considerable, but yes, my very old ones 1940/50s might have disintegrated floral notes with pronounced skankiness, whereas the 1960s smells fresher with more florals present. Is it only the aging? I know from experience that my source for the very old Scandal has provided me with stunningly fresh juice (storage conditions). Just my two cents...

  37. #37

    Default Re: Which reformulated fragrances are essentially DIFFERENT from the original?

    Aging must play a part too. I have an old pure patchouli oil from Houbigant and it has matured to the most fabulous smell. I always remember it as lovely but the harsh edges have gone and it is now velvety and soft.

    Just a thought for the pot:- If oakmoss is the most interesting banned ingredient, then maybe adding some diluted oakmoss EO as a layer with a bad new reformulation could fix it. It is still easy and relatively inexpensive to obtain. The results may be quite interesting if you don't like the new perfume anyway. I have some new carven ma Griffe and the old, so I may try it and report back.

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