Code of Conduct
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2
Results 31 to 39 of 39
  1. #31

    Default Re: Which reformulated fragrances are essentially DIFFERENT from the original?

    Thank you castorpollux! That is so interesting- you really know your stuff! Oakmoss is my favourite so that's sad news....

  2. #32
    Sunnyfunny's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Oregon
    Posts
    2,508
    Blog Entries
    9

    Default Re: Which reformulated fragrances are essentially DIFFERENT from the original?

    Bellodgia is dramatically different. The former is a dark, musty carnation, and the latter is a sparkling floral carnation, a far less glamorous but more joyful scent.

    The Exclusifs version of No. 22 edt is quite a bit lighter on the aldehydes.

    Tabu is much sweeter nowadays, a tad less skanky (say the vintage is a 10 on the scale o' skank, the new is just an 8 ) but just as loud; not quite as rich.

    Long Lost Perfume's version of My Sin is as Mimi described-- tamer and less velvety. Like oakmoss, real civet/castoreum/musk/whatev adds incomparable and inimitable depth, but I, too, enjoy and love a lot of the reissues-- some more than the originals. I will also add that, had I not tried the original My Sin and been blown away, I would think the new one is the cat's meow. As it is, it's still pretty darned tasty.
    Wear your reforms with pride, man! Even the "worst" ones are better than most the recent offerings.

  3. #33
    Pimpinett's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Stockholm
    Posts
    624
    Blog Entries
    6

    Default Re: Which reformulated fragrances are essentially DIFFERENT from the original?

    This is splitting hairs, maybe, but how many of us can really compare "original" versions of very old fragrances like Shalimar, Mitsouko et al, to the current versions? Are we not, in most cases, actually talking of reformulations of those fragrances, ranging from 50's-60's to 90's versions of them? What do we know of the differences between, say, a 20's Mitsouko and a 60's Mitsouko? There are bound to have been several reformulations and versions between them, I suspect, and perhaps the differences are as great as between the current and the 60's version.

    Also, I still can't help wondering if fragrance matures, just as wines do; if there are significant differences in smell between the 60's Mitsouko when it was fresh and the 60's Mitsouko today, if it has been well stored and is still in good shape. Any takers? I know that some of the raw materials do mature and evolve, notably some base notes.

  4. #34
    Sunnyfunny's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Oregon
    Posts
    2,508
    Blog Entries
    9

    Default Re: Which reformulated fragrances are essentially DIFFERENT from the original?

    I've considered both your thoughts, too, Pimpinett. Every new batch is based on what natural resources are available; the advent of synthetics make things more uniform throughout the years, right? But even as perfumers follow an exact formula, there are bound to be slight differences throughout the years. The winery we used for our wedding has yet to put out a Riesling as sweet as the one from that year.

    I don't know if it is my skin, but the vintages I've tried are far less floral and more animalic, so maybe floral notes don't last as long, while animalic notes get darker and dirtier. I've wondered if the mustiness I get from so many is a spoiled or turning animalic or oakmoss note. I can say that my vintage Bellodgia was from the 1950s, the Tabu was likely late 70s or 80s. No. 22 wasn't too terribly old; I got it from TPC and it is not considered vintage, but it it not the Exclusifs, either.

  5. #35
    Basenotes Institution
    Mimi Gardenia's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Exactly Where I Should Be
    Posts
    16,437

    Default Re: Which reformulated fragrances are essentially DIFFERENT from the original?

    Quote Originally Posted by Pimpinett View Post
    This is splitting hairs, maybe, but how many of us can really compare "original" versions of very old fragrances like Shalimar, Mitsouko et al, to the current versions? Are we not, in most cases, actually talking of reformulations of those fragrances, ranging from 50's-60's to 90's versions of them? What do we know of the differences between, say, a 20's Mitsouko and a 60's Mitsouko? There are bound to have been several reformulations and versions between them, I suspect, and perhaps the differences are as great as between the current and the 60's version.

    Also, I still can't help wondering if fragrance matures, just as wines do; if there are significant differences in smell between the 60's Mitsouko when it was fresh and the 60's Mitsouko today, if it has been well stored and is still in good shape. Any takers? I know that some of the raw materials do mature and evolve, notably some base notes.
    Mr. G and Sorcery Of Scent will know the best answer, Pimpinett. I know Mitsouko has varied in smell through the decades . Also Mitsouko doesn't age as well as Shalimar etc .


    {Though I have older Mitsouko vintage extrait and cologne ( probably 60s,70s and 80s ) - the difference I spoke of in Mitsouko - for me - is mainly the loss of depth and that woody velvet background ( from the missing/ minute amounts of included oakmoss ) .
    I actually enjoy new Mitsouko for what it is but I lament the loss of that special extra 'something ' oakmoss brought to it ( and also to other chypres )
    Comparing EDP manufactured in the early 2000s to the latest jus - the difference in depth is quite great. }
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/370...o-Profumo-Onda
    For sale. Carnal Flower and Vero Profumo Onda.

  6. #36

    Default Re: Which reformulated fragrances are essentially DIFFERENT from the original?

    BTW, my new Tabac Blond has evernia prunastri (oakmoss) extract listed.

    I think a lot of the above considerations are very valid. There have probably always been numerous reformulations and variations, but nothing has probably reached the effect of the allergy-frenzy of the EU. I have e.g. various Scandal extrait bottles from different decades I think. The differences are considerable, but yes, my very old ones 1940/50s might have disintegrated floral notes with pronounced skankiness, whereas the 1960s smells fresher with more florals present. Is it only the aging? I know from experience that my source for the very old Scandal has provided me with stunningly fresh juice (storage conditions). Just my two cents...

  7. #37

    Default Re: Which reformulated fragrances are essentially DIFFERENT from the original?

    Aging must play a part too. I have an old pure patchouli oil from Houbigant and it has matured to the most fabulous smell. I always remember it as lovely but the harsh edges have gone and it is now velvety and soft.

    Just a thought for the pot:- If oakmoss is the most interesting banned ingredient, then maybe adding some diluted oakmoss EO as a layer with a bad new reformulation could fix it. It is still easy and relatively inexpensive to obtain. The results may be quite interesting if you don't like the new perfume anyway. I have some new carven ma Griffe and the old, so I may try it and report back.
    Currently wearing: Montecristo by Masque

  8. #38

    Default Re: Which reformulated fragrances are essentially DIFFERENT from the original?

    Anything Dana has touched has been ruined over the past 3 - 5 years. This includes Ambush, Tabu, Toujours Moi, Heaven Scent, and Chantilly for women and Canoe, British Sterling and English leather for men. They are all made in China now and smell atrocious! Shame on Dana for ruining these once fine, classic and elegant fragrances!

  9. #39
    Super Member BoyChanel's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    New York, NY
    Posts
    447

    Default Re: Which reformulated fragrances are essentially DIFFERENT from the original?

    L`Heure Bleue current EDP smells remarkable... much better then a brand new vintage I recently stumbled upon.
    "In order to be irreplaceable, one must always be different." - Mademoiselle Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel

Similar Threads

  1. Oscar de la Renta Pour Lui: Original vs. Reformulated (PICS).
    By Bigsly in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 32
    Last Post: 20th March 2012, 10:46 AM
  2. discontinued/reformulated blues - womens fragrances
    By fumes4ever in forum Female Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 21
    Last Post: 13th October 2010, 02:05 PM
  3. Reformulated fragrances and how this affects us
    By Addict in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 5th May 2010, 06:24 AM
  4. PACO RABANNE PH - Original v Reformulated !!
    By Dimitrios in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 25
    Last Post: 25th November 2009, 06:27 AM
  5. Which Serge Lutens fragrances have been reformulated?
    By scentsitivity in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 22nd October 2009, 12:22 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  



Loving perfume on the Internet since 2000