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  1. #1

    Default Etat Libre d'Orange disappointment

    I've been exploring niche fragrances lately and after reading about Etat Libre d'Orange here I ordered some samples. I liked the price, the bottle and even the quirky marketing. What I didn't like was the juice.

    The six fragrances I sampled (from what I disliked the most to least):

    Secretions Magnifiques - I think Vibert's description was dead on: "smells lousy, it doesn't necessarily smell lousy in an exciting, provocative sort of way. (Etat Libre d'Orange can only wish.) It smells lousy in a dull, industrial chemical, windshield wiper fluid sort of way. At once repellent and boring."

    Rien - Civet and burned plastic. Metallic and unwearable. Shared an elevator while wearing it and felt really self-conscious. Btw. I like Kouros.

    Encens et Bubblegum - Smells cheap and very synthetic. I could imagine this under Barbie-brand marketed to little girls.

    Charogne - Somehow reminded me of a local store that sells dried fruit, nuts, spices etc. Interesting but not something I'd like to wear.

    Jasmin et Cigarette - Not bad but a bit too feminine for me. Couldn't smell the cigarette. Maybe if I'd apply more liberally I would but then the jasmine would be overwhelming.

    Je suis un Homme - Nice but nothing special. Didn't have the longetivity problem some reviewers had.

    I really wanted to find at least one I like a lot and buy a bottle but didn't. The fragrances generally smelled cheap and/or synthetic to me. The question is should I sample any more ELDOs or just forget it and accept that they aren't for me.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Etat Libre d'Orange disappointment

    Finding out what you don't like is also a valuable part of the journey. I find the Etat Libre d'Orange line to be crass. I'd be fascinated to learn how many bottles of SM they've sold.

  3. #3

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    Default Re: Etat Libre d'Orange disappointment

    I happen to really like ELDO - it looks like you picked some of the most 'difficult' ELDOs to sample. Secretions Magnifique is widely regarding as disgusting. I happen to really like Rien, but it's very challenging. I happen to think there's a lot of quality in the ELDO line and would say to keep trying, but perhaps it's just not the house for you. Vraie Blonde, Bendelirious, Noel Au Balcon, Nombril Immense, and a Tom of Finland are others I like - though I can't vouch that you will (because I love both Charogne and Je Suis en Homme).

    I'd love to hear your thought on what you end up trying.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Etat Libre d'Orange disappointment

    Rien is haunting to me in a very pretty way. I'm just discovering the line though and only tried Putain and Rien but so far there is always something interesting lurker in the shadows.

    I never saw much of their marketing and I wasn't expecting much, more a gimmick house than anything else but I like what I sniffed so far.
    But once you get locked into a serious perfume collection, the tendency is to push it as far as you can.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Etat Libre d'Orange disappointment

    I have a hard time divorcing myself from ELDO's marketing/packaging/image and achieving an unbiased evaluation.

    The 4 samples I received were Jasmin et Cigarette, Je Suis Un Homme and Antiheros and another one that escapes me, but certainly not Secretions - I would have remembered that. But I wasn't moved by any of those and I don't think I'd want to put myself in a position, like another BNoter mentioned, of having to tell people my SOTD was "Don't Get Me Wrong Baby, I Don't Swallow".. or "Delicious Closet Queen".

    It's kind of quirky and fun in concept, but I'm a conservative guy.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Etat Libre d'Orange disappointment

    I've tried a couple of ELDO frags and have yet to find anything I need to revisit.
    Seek not the favor of the multitude; it is seldom got by honest and lawful means. But seek the testimony of few; and number not voices, but weigh them. - Immanuel Kant

  7. #7

    Default Re: Etat Libre d'Orange disappointment

    I tried a couple, and found one that I liked so much I bought it: Eloge du Traitre. It is an excellent, powerful green-pine-woody scent. It is a greener version of Yatagan. I have samples of most of them, but haven't got around to trying others.
    odysseusm

    "The force that through the green fuse drives the flower // drives my green age..." Dylan Thomas

  8. #8

    Default Re: Etat Libre d'Orange disappointment

    I think they're a brilliant house that is trying to re-energize a lot of old tropes. They have fair prices, at least in Paris, and work with quality ingredients. Vierges et Toreros is my favorite, old, animalis base turned on its head, Rossy de Palma, making a simple rose seem edgy and Encens and Bubblegum, very surreal and real.
    Great house, not for everyone's taste. But what interesting is?
    Last edited by Kevin Guyer; 5th March 2009 at 02:52 AM.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Etat Libre d'Orange disappointment

    "Secretions Magnifique" is such a fabulous name, I wish I had heard better reviews. I am terrified to even ponder what this would smell like. With a name like that I thought it would be interesting, but I have yet to hear anyone say they adore it.
    Quand on boit l'eau, il faut penser à sa source

  10. #10

    Default Re: Etat Libre d'Orange disappointment

    Quote Originally Posted by Brielle87 View Post
    "Secretions Magnifique" is such a fabulous name, I wish I had heard better reviews. I am terrified to even ponder what this would smell like. With a name like that I thought it would be interesting, but I have yet to hear anyone say they adore it.
    Brielle87 if you do come accross an individual that loves it please share!

  11. #11

    Default Re: Etat Libre d'Orange disappointment

    Quote Originally Posted by Brielle87 View Post
    "Secretions Magnifique" is such a fabulous name, I wish I had heard better reviews. I am terrified to even ponder what this would smell like. With a name like that I thought it would be interesting, but I have yet to hear anyone say they adore it.
    I don't adore it, but I don't abhor it either. It's white flowers over a never ending chum bucket note. It certainly will never be copied! But you never know, Bond 09 may may release a copy called Long Island Sound.
    Last edited by Kevin Guyer; 5th March 2009 at 03:03 AM.

  12. #12
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    Default Re: Etat Libre d'Orange disappointment

    As provocative as the packaging is, and hilarious as the marketing copy is, I just find most of the line boring. I liked Vierges e Toreros, and I did think Charogne was whacky fun, if useless as a personal fragrance, but the several others I tried were just dull, structureless synthetic concoctions. If the scents were as outrageous as the firm seems to think they are, I'd pay more attention.

  13. #13
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    Default Re: Etat Libre d'Orange disappointment

    Quote Originally Posted by Ruggles View Post
    I don't adore it, but I don't abhor it either. It's white flowers over a never ending chum bucket note. It certainly will never be copied! But you never know, Bond 09 may may release a copy called Long Island Sound.

    Bravo!!!

  14. #14

    Default Re: Etat Libre d'Orange disappointment

    Of the ELDO scents I've tried the only one I liked even a little was Rossy de Palma. Vrai Blonde was a scrubber on me. Really nauseating. I have to admit that after that disaster I've been put off by this house! I'll get back to them one of these days, though I don't have any interest in sniffing SM. Rotting Flesh? Bilge? No thanks...

  15. #15

    Default Re: Etat Libre d'Orange disappointment

    Quote Originally Posted by Ruggles View Post
    It's white flowers over a never ending chum bucket note. It certainly will never be copied! But you never know, Bond 09 may may release a copy called Long Island Sound.
    Well that sums it up for me. So sad they wasted the name. Chum bucket? I was a little perplexed by the official meaning, other than the implied "" factor. I also know it from Spongebob, but I do not think that was what was implied
    But here is a link
    http://www.urbandictionary.com/defin...rm=chum+bucket

    This definitely painted a picture for me of, SM. I will never try it.
    Quand on boit l'eau, il faut penser à sa source

  16. #16

    Default Re: Etat Libre d'Orange disappointment

    Quote Originally Posted by Brielle87 View Post
    Well that sums it up for me. So sad they wasted the name. Chum bucket? I was a little perplexed by the official meaning, other than the implied "" factor. I also know it from Spongebob, but I do not think that was what was implied
    But here is a link
    http://www.urbandictionary.com/defin...rm=chum+bucket

    This definitely painted a picture for me of, SM. I will never try it.
    It is a new take on Aquatic. It's really not that bad, it's just that it's industrial strength chum bucket. Instead of indoles, the white flowers get a shell fish note.
    I think everyone needs to try it as it's audacious.
    Last edited by Kevin Guyer; 5th March 2009 at 03:24 AM.

  17. #17

    Default Re: Etat Libre d'Orange disappointment

    Quote Originally Posted by Ruggles View Post
    It is a new take on Aquatic. It's really not that bad, it's just that it's industrial strength chum bucket. Instead of indoles, the white flowers get a shell fish note.
    I think everyone needs to try it as it's audacious.
    Well I will take your word on it. I know someone who has a sample, I will ask them to send me a drop. I will let you know if I sicken, or smell "Magnefique"
    Quand on boit l'eau, il faut penser à sa source

  18. #18

    Default Re: Etat Libre d'Orange disappointment

    I recently obtained samples of almost the entire line. After a few preliminary test applications, I'll give you a capsule review of each.

    Rossy de Palma Fresh spicy rose turing to chocolate/patchouli/benzoin. My favorite in the line. I've smelled better roses but the chocolate/patchouli/benzoin mix is the reason I keep coming back.
    Sécrétions Magnifiques Ruggles is correct. Chum bucket and white flowers. Smells like cleaning fish near a river and white flowers. Interesting and very original. I appreciate the audacity and originality.
    Rien Suede musk. Very nice.
    Nombrile Immense Dry, woody patchouli. May need a bottle of this one.
    Delicious Closet Queen Raunchy raspberry. Fortunately, the raspberry fades into a spicy, leathery musk.
    Charogne For some reason, it reminds me of classic feminine Guerlains. Testworthy.
    Je sui un homme A less expensive alternative to Profumum Thundra. An interesting riff on eau de cologne. I like it more than I thought I would, and even more so with each application.
    Don't get me wrong baby, I don't swallow Too much aldehyde for me.
    Divin Enfant Unusual candy accord. Reminds me of those candy hearts you see around Valentine's Day. The hearts with the cheesy sayings on them.
    Encens et BubblegumThe bubblegum top fades in minutes and then I have trouble smelling anything after that.
    Jasmin & Cigarette Jasmine scattered over a barroom floor. I like this one a lot but wish it had more of a dirty edge. Jasmine fans should definitely test this one.
    Putain des Palaces Good fun, floral spicy skank for those who appreciate scents like Alexander McQueen Kingdom. Thumbs up for this one.
    Vierges & Toreros Extreme leather. Smells like a Cat 'o Nine Tails that one of my former GFs probably still owns. I'll stop there.
    Vraie Blonde The aldehydes and myrrh smell similar to Serge Lutens La Myrrhe but not as complex. I like it and consider it testworthy for those who can handle aldehydes.
    Last edited by Sloan; 5th March 2009 at 04:31 PM.

  19. #19

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    Default Re: Etat Libre d'Orange disappointment

    Thanks Sloan!.... You and I may be the only people that have publicly stated they are trying to tackle the entire line. The bottle worthy ones for me are Vraie Blonde, Charogne, Je Suis en Homme, Rosy de Palma, Rien, Jasmine et Cigarette, Encens et Bubblegum, Eloge du Traitre, Tom of Finland, and Vierges & Toreros. Yes, it's a lot, but I see them as simple, creative but not audacious scents. The fact they are inexpensive helps, too.

    A few you missed (for the sake of being completest):

    Tom of Finland - a light leather/rubber with saffron and powder
    Noel Au Balcon - spicy/fruity gourmand
    Eloge du Traitre - light fougere, very good.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ruggles
    don't adore it, but I don't abhor it either. It's white flowers over a never ending chum bucket note. It certainly will never be copied! But you never know, Bond 09 may may release a copy called Long Island Sound.
    LMFAO!!! AAAaaah that's funny. 'Eau de East River'. Bond hasn't come up with "Fulton Fish Market' yet.

  20. #20

    Default Re: Etat Libre d'Orange disappointment

    I've just sprayed some Rossy de Palma on my left arm from a sample - and I think I'm falling in love! What a nice sweet rose this is - and I usually don't even like rose scents.

    Back to the question on ELd'O; I've liked most of the scents I've tried from them. I own bottles of Rien, Vierges et Toreros and Putain de Palaces, and have tried:
    Divin' Enfant - a cute candy/pepper scent
    Encens & Bubblegum - maybe the most boring one, I get incense, bubblegum and nothing else
    Vraie Blonde - nice peach and champagne scent
    Jasmin & Cigarette - jasmin and ashtray, but that might be because I recently gave up smoking and cigarette is the last thing I want to smell right now

    I would love to try "Noël au balcon" but I think it's a Sephora France exclusive. Does anyone know how to get a sample outside France?

  21. #21

    Default Re: Etat Libre d'Orange disappointment

    I've smelled nothing I loved from this house. Brash, crass and loud fragrances, only one of them remotely wearable in my opinion ( Jasmin Et Cigarette ), and the one exception to the loud rule ( surprisingly, Tom Of Finland ) is bland and rather flat.

    No thanks, ELDO; no thanks.

  22. #22

    Default Re: Etat Libre d'Orange disappointment

    Divin Enfant was a disappointment for me too. I was expecting coffee and leather in focus, but what i got was something similar in shape to Jean Paul Gaultier Classique - An ambered orange flower fragrance - but with a very sweet marshmallow note.

  23. #23

    Default Re: Etat Libre d'Orange disappointment

    I happen to like ELdO and its tongue-in-cheek look at the way-too-serious, high-brow world of fine fragrance. They seem to be laughing at themselves as much as poking fun at the fragrance world.

    BTW, quite a few experienced noses worked for them: Antoine Lie, Nathalie Feisthauer, Antoine Maisondieu, Mathilde Bajaoi.

    I like Jasmin et Cigarette and its ashtray topnote, and the Delicious Closet Queen.
    "No sweet perfume ever tortured me more than this." Desert Rose by Sting and Cheb Mami, Album 1999.

  24. #24
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    Default Re: Etat Libre d'Orange disappointment

    Quote Originally Posted by Primrose View Post
    I happen to like ELdO and its tongue-in-cheek look at the way-too-serious, high-brow world of fine fragrance. They seem to be laughing at themselves as much as poking fun at the fragrance world.

    BTW, quite a few experienced noses worked for them: Antoine Lie, Nathalie Feisthauer, Antoine Maisondieu, Mathilde Bajaoi.

    I like Jasmin et Cigarette and its ashtray topnote, and the Delicious Closet Queen.
    I like them also. It's one of my favorite houses. I find their fragrances interesting, wearable and reasonably priced.
    Last edited by petruccijc; 25th October 2010 at 06:59 PM.
    Please feel free to check out my Swap Thread - Patou pour Homme, L'Instant de Guerlain PH Extreme, Dior Homme Intense, Pure Malt, Pure Coffee and many more! Click Here For My Swap Thread

  25. #25

    Default Re: Etat Libre d'Orange disappointment

    I sampled several from this House. I was disappointed and started sampling from other Houses. The only ELDO I liked was Tilda Swinton Like This. It is one of their more conservative scents.

    "The fragrance opens with a juicy hit of neroli and mandarin, and it is quickly balanced by the earthiness of pumpkin flesh, a note rarely found in perfume. A thread of exotic immortelle and powdered ginger add both sweetness and spice to the composition. But don’t think Like This smells like the pantry— a lush bouquet of rose, heliotrope, and green vetiver are the foundation on which the scent is built, and a hint of clean musk adds intimacy."

    From Luckyscent.com

    I just noticed there is a new SEX PISTOLS fragrance from ELDO.

    Sex Pistols Notes
    Citrus, Black Pepper, Amber, Prune Jungle Essence, Electric Aldehydes, Heliotrope, Patchouli, Orcanox, Leather
    +"Do you spray below the waist?"
    +"Success is not the key to happiness. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing,
    you will be successful." - Albert Schweitzer
    +"All blame is a waste of time. No matter how much fault you find with another, and regardless of how much you blame him, it will not change you." - Dr. W. Dyer

  26. #26

    Default Re: Etat Libre d'Orange disappointment

    Ive never tried anything from them , I hear good things about Fat Electrician and Im intrigued by the Tilda Swinton znd their new Josephine Baker inspired offering

  27. #27

    Default Re: Etat Libre d'Orange disappointment

    Quote Originally Posted by Pour_Monsieur View Post
    Ive never tried anything from them , I hear good things about Fat Electrician and Im intrigued by the Tilda Swinton znd their new Josephine Baker inspired offering
    This sort of echoes my position - never tried any (Fat Electrician on my list) but I heard numerous glowing things about both Fat Electrician and Tilda Swinton like that, I'm actually suprised to hear so many negative comments on the line as a whole

  28. #28

    Default Re: Etat Libre d'Orange disappointment

    I really liked Like This, the Tilda Swinton one. It's a non-sweet gingerbread with a delicious lift and sparkle while still smelling very dark and dense. It's not very ELDO - but it's very Serge Lutens, smelling somewhere between Five O'Clock Au Gingembre ( minus vanilla ) and Fille En Aiguilles ( minus pine ). It's conservative by the house's standards, to be sure, but it's also a great deal more sophisticated in feel than all of their other releases.

    Charogne continues to interest me, but I'm not sure I could describe the feeling as enjoyment. It's a great contrast of innocent and grotesque.

  29. #29

    Default Re: Etat Libre d'Orange disappointment

    I sampled Fat Electrician and was not impressed. There are other "light" vetivers that are better IMO. I think this House, for me, is "sample them bc they are interesting." It is like going to a museum and looking at all the different paintings. It doesn't mean you want them hanging in your living room (buying a full bottle).

    However, you might find one you really like. Admission: $3 per sample.
    +"Do you spray below the waist?"
    +"Success is not the key to happiness. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing,
    you will be successful." - Albert Schweitzer
    +"All blame is a waste of time. No matter how much fault you find with another, and regardless of how much you blame him, it will not change you." - Dr. W. Dyer

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