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  1. #1

    Default Cartier L`Heure Fougueuse, L`Heure Diaphane and L`Heure Défendue - New Fragrances

    Cartier is launching three more fragrances to their excluve Les Heures du Parfum Line:

    I found at a Cartier press release on google that:

    Three new fragrances have joined the Les Heures de Parfum Collection:
    Number IV – L’HEURE FOUGUEUSE (magnolia, bergamot, horsehair note, vetiver, yerba-mate, musk notes, lavender, coumarin and oak moss);
    Number VII – L’HEURE DÉFENDUE (amber note, sandalwood, tolu, musk notes, patchouli, vanilla and black cocoa) and Number VIII – L’HEURE DIAPHANE (peony notes, rose,lychee notes, amber wood and ionones).

    Grain de Musc have already tried - and produced some short but interesting reviews:
    http://graindemusc.blogspot.com/2010...parfum-by.html

    Al that i now is that i`m very curious about Number IV and VII.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Cartier L`Heure Fougueuse, L`Heure Diaphane and L`Heure Défendue - New Fragrances

    Horsehair?! Miss Laurent time at Guerlain seems to have overexposed her to Habit Rouge!

    Have to try Number VII, although rose infused non-foody cocoa sounds like Cannabis Santal (and CS will be so much more affordable).

  3. #3

    Default Re: Cartier L`Heure Fougueuse, L`Heure Diaphane and L`Heure Défendue - New Fragrances

    Les heures parfumées are truly exceptionnals but the price is 224 euros the 75ml bottle...!
    Défendue is an incredible bitter dark cocoa accompagned by patchouli, really really dark !
    I didn't smelled La Fougeueuse but it's all about horse skin..

  4. #4

    Default Re: Cartier L`Heure Fougueuse, L`Heure Diaphane and L`Heure Défendue - New Fragrances

    Quote Originally Posted by Mon-Petit View Post
    Les heures parfumées are truly exceptionnals but the price is 224 euros the 75ml bottle...!
    Défendue is an incredible bitter dark cocoa accompagned by patchouli, really really dark !
    I didn't smelled La Fougeueuse but it's all about horse skin..
    They could do like hermés and launch some 15ml coffrets. It`d be nice i think. So Deféndue is a non gourmand cocoa? Does it follow any olfactory tendency of any fragrance? Just to have a hint of how it`s the smell.
    How do the packaging of Les Heures line look in person?

  5. #5

    Default Re: Cartier L`Heure Fougueuse, L`Heure Diaphane and L`Heure Défendue - New Fragrances

    Quote Originally Posted by andym72 View Post
    Horsehair?! Miss Laurent time at Guerlain seems to have overexposed her to Habit Rouge!

    Have to try Number VII, although rose infused non-foody cocoa sounds like Cannabis Santal (and CS will be so much more affordable).
    Guerlain should have kept Laurent, i think her style is perfect for them

  6. #6

    Default Re: Cartier L`Heure Fougueuse, L`Heure Diaphane and L`Heure Défendue - New Fragrances

    They could do like hermés and launch some 15ml coffrets. It`d be nice i think. So Deféndue is a non gourmand cocoa? Does it follow any olfactory tendency of any fragrance? Just to have a hint of how it`s the smell.
    How do the packaging of Les Heures line look in person?
    Les heures are the most beautiful niche release today (and those two are the most incredibles imo), it's unlike any other actually, it's truly worth the smelling and the price if you can afford it.
    Défendue is totally non gourmand cocoa (no sugar), extremly deep. The comparaison with Bornéo 1834 is inevitable whereas they are differents (Bornéo is more patchouli).
    The packaging photo is here http://ambregris.blogspot.com/2010/0...i-cartier.html

  7. #7

    Default Re: Cartier L`Heure Fougueuse, L`Heure Diaphane and L`Heure Défendue - New Fragrances

    Quote Originally Posted by rickbr View Post
    Guerlain should have kept Laurent, i think her style is perfect for them
    It seems a lot of her Guerlain work has been re-attributed to her former boss, and then after she had been there years, Thierry Wasser becomes 'the chosen one' to succeed. You could speculate those factors helped her decision to take Cartier's offer.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Cartier L`Heure Fougueuse, L`Heure Diaphane and L`Heure Défendue - New Fragrances

    Quote Originally Posted by andym72 View Post
    It seems a lot of her Guerlain work has been re-attributed to her former boss, and then after she had been there years, Thierry Wasser becomes 'the chosen one' to succeed. You could speculate those factors helped her decision to take Cartier's offer.
    Well, it wasn`t at all a wise decision of Guerlain. But i don`t complain, since Cartier is another one of my favorite houses and it`s great to see that they choosed a talented perfumer to keep they quality and classical aspects of their fragrances.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Cartier L`Heure Fougueuse, L`Heure Diaphane and L`Heure Défendue - New Fragrances

    I tried these today.

    I liked IV - it has an interesting mix of tea and animalic notes.

    VII was OK - seemed like an Angel ripoff (I much prefer Angel though).

    VIII was "meh" - it didn't do anything for me.

    As with the others in this line, I think they are over-priced - and not anything I would purchase.
    Please feel free to check out my Swap Thread - Patou pour Homme, L'Instant de Guerlain PH Extreme, Dior Homme Intense, Pure Malt, Pure Coffee and many more! Click Here For My Swap Thread

  10. #10
    Basenotes Member Paper Moon's Avatar
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    Default Re: Cartier L`Heure Fougueuse, L`Heure Diaphane and L`Heure Défendue - New Fragrances

    I have a sample of the L`Heure Défendue. When you first open the cap it smells like chocolate milk. On the skin, the first note that hits is the cocoa again, then it settles into the patchouli. I also thought it seemed really dark and odd at first, two things I am always on the hunt for in a frag. Finally in the dry down the chocolate was pretty much gone for me, and a kind of odd, camp fire smoked out floral lingered. Jury is still out on this one. It really intrigued me at first because I thought it smelled like a very refined cocoa scent as opposed to the younger types I usually encounter (for instance Honey and the Moon by Tokyo Milk). I am going to give it another go on a different day. So far I would say definitely not worth the $250 price tag.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Cartier L`Heure Fougueuse, L`Heure Diaphane and L`Heure Défendue - New Fragrances

    I tried L'Heure Defendue when I was at the boutique picking up L'Heure Fougueuse, thinking 'might as well try the chocolate one while I'm here' and was surprised to find myself really drawn into it as the afternoon went by. I own Coromandel and I know Borneo 1874 (right date?) quite well, and this one has a deeper, drier, slightly more 'noir' take on the cacao / patch interplay that I'm thinking I could maybe live with. The patchouli doesn't bother me, like some. Will definitely be picking up a proper sample next time I am across the harbour.

    I'm glad I bought IV and also have been trying a sample of XIII but unlikely I'll go for this (or XII). I'm certainly looking forward to seeing what Mathilde Laurent does to fill the remaining few time slots.

    PS http://graindemusc.blogspot.com/2010...urent-for.html

    Inserting this review for anyone who missed it (Rickbr mentioned this series on Les Heures earlier) which I think is excellent. Iit was the mention of Attrape Coeur that first piqued my interest in IV as the chocolate/patch gourmand genre is one I usually steer clear of.
    Last edited by mr. reasonable; 19th May 2011 at 05:19 PM.

  12. #12
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    Default Re: Cartier L`Heure Fougueuse, L`Heure Diaphane and L`Heure Défendue - New Fragrances

    Have had these for a while and am satisfied with all in the collection.

  13. #13
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    Default Re: Cartier L`Heure Fougueuse, L`Heure Diaphane and L`Heure Défendue - New Fragrances

    After this thread last night I decided to wear L'Heure Defendue today. So far so good. It definitely draws you in. I am a patchouli lover so that aspect wouldn't bother me. We will see how the afternoon wears on. It definitely smells like an expensive, decadent fragrance... which it had better for this price tag. I almost hope it doesn't work out for me so I don't have to spend the $$. I think its Borneo 1834. I have heard a lot about it but never tried it, I would love to though!!
    "I don't mind living in a man's world, as long as I can be a woman in it."
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    Default Re: Cartier L`Heure Fougueuse, L`Heure Diaphane and L`Heure Défendue - New Fragrances

    Update: VII is intoxicating. I don't find it to be a Angel rip off at all. Angel to me, is all musk and vanilla, whereas VII is all about chocolate and patchouli. The price tag is definitely a downer, but I will find a way... at some point. And until then, I will keep stocked with samples!
    "I don't mind living in a man's world, as long as I can be a woman in it."
    — Marilyn Monroe

  15. #15
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    Default Re: Cartier L`Heure Fougueuse, L`Heure Diaphane and L`Heure Défendue - New Fragrances

    I wore L' Heure Fougueuse on Sunday night and Monday and I love it.

    I am very familiar with the smell of dried mate leaves, my grandmother used to make the tea for herself all of the time and I remember sniffing the tea bags and smelling the brewed tea many times as a child. It's sort of hard to describe - it has a sort of dandelion-on-steroids smell, hearty, a bit dusty, and yes...something slightly animalic/flowery. It is perhaps the BEST tea scent I've smelled, only second to Tea for Two by L' Artisan (which smells more like lapsang souchong tea). I used to think I was anosmic to certain tea notes because everyone else would mention them in fragrances, where I would scratch my head thinking, 'Tea? Really!?'...like Hermessence Osmanthe Yunnan by Hermes and Theorama by Fendi. But the Cartier smells definitely, clearly and strongly of tea - rich, slightly medicinal and sharp, dried.

    And then, well there's the smell of horse hair (mane) that is just so odd. Mixed with the hay and the florals (a tiny jasmine note peeks out) and the vetiver, the mix is comfortingly schizophrenic and yet eminently wearable. It feels like NO OTHER fragrance I have ever smelled before - which I love.

    When the vetiver and hay/horse/florals dry down, the impression is one of green, thick oakmoss. The phantom chypre effect.

    Brilliant.

    Now I have to figure out how to get more of this (it's outrageously over priced). A decant is definitely in order.
    "One day I will find the right words, and they will be simple"

    -- Jack Kerouac

  16. #16

    Default Re: Cartier L`Heure Fougueuse, L`Heure Diaphane and L`Heure Défendue - New Fragrances

    Finally! Another convert. So glad to hear you like this one, Mike. It doesn't seem to get much recognition and still hasn't shown up in the directory (I logged it in a few weeks back and stuck a review of sorts in the Missing Fragrances section).

    It is strangely addictive - I have been wearing it for a month or so and just keep coming back to it. I think Mathilde Laurent has really come up with something quite unique here, but it's weird because it feels so familiar and under-stated and non-gimmicky and just 'right' as well. It's as close to a perfect fit as I have found.

  17. #17
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    Default Re: Cartier L`Heure Fougueuse, L`Heure Diaphane and L`Heure Défendue - New Fragrances

    Strangely addictive, I agree.

    Tea, I am learning, can take on so many olfactory sensations. Have you ever smelled old brewed iced tea (black tea) that's been sitting around too long? It smells like corn-on-the-cob when you drink it (I swear). Plus the pure ceremony of preparing tea, brewing it, straining it, drinking it...it's alive with smells. It's nice to explore this smell in a fragrance, so vividly.
    "One day I will find the right words, and they will be simple"

    -- Jack Kerouac

  18. #18

    Default Re: Cartier L`Heure Fougueuse, L`Heure Diaphane and L`Heure Défendue - New Fragrances

    My current tea obsession is Ginseng Oolong - this last couple of years it has turned up as one of the several choices at some of the more upmarket local restaurants here. Beautiful powdery stuff, would work nicely if someone could bottle it.

    Osmanthus is very popular here in desserts (Ellena nailed it with The Different Company soliflore IMO) and it's also a great tea on it's own. I still wonder about Osmanthe Yunnan - love it but it flips into such a milky tea accord and milk is just not something you see in tea over here. Poetic license, I guess

    If you're trying these Cartiers L'Heure Defendue is worth a shot IMO to contrast with Coromandel & Borneo 1874. I'm not a choco patch fan as a rule but this one is so dark, truly a 'noir' take on cacao, that I ended up grabbing it and I'm really enjoying it.

    XIII is also nice - an essay on 'smoke' that also seems to reprise this Mate note (that Mathilde Laurent is apparently leaning on as a sort of Oakmoss alternative).

  19. #19
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    Default Re: Cartier L`Heure Fougueuse, L`Heure Diaphane and L`Heure Défendue - New Fragrances

    I actually smelled L' Heure Defendue at Sak's a month or so ago when I ran into the line accidentally. I liked it. It is on my list to sample again.

    I have a sample of XIII La Treizième Heure, so I'm looking forward to wearing it soon.
    "One day I will find the right words, and they will be simple"

    -- Jack Kerouac

  20. #20

    Default Re: Cartier L`Heure Fougueuse, L`Heure Diaphane and L`Heure Défendue - New Fragrances

    I have had my L'Heure Defendue sample for almost an year, and today it seemed a fine day to wear it. It`s completely different from what i expected, and it`s a positive thing; i expected a strong, leathery, animalic accord and was surprised by the smoothness of this one. L'Heure Defendue for me seems to embrace the sking with an aroma which is soft but not distant; it`s a combination of the herbal tea aroma with something almost milky and creamy. The horsehead accord is a distant aroma on my skin, more the impression of a skin with a very clean and shy sweat accord, that produces a pleasant harmony with the green milkyness and the subtle floweriness that this one exhales. Also, the balance of the notes is for me reminiscent of Declaration, but with different aromas. Same smooth evolution, different stories. One of the best that i tried from this collection so far.

  21. #21

    Default Re: Cartier L`Heure Fougueuse, L`Heure Diaphane and L`Heure Défendue - New Fragrances

    rickbr, sounds like you mean L'Heure Fougueuse? Maté / Tea / Horse Mane? (Defendue is the Cacao / Patchouli).

    I think you describe it well, as does Mike above - it's a very unique physical experience wearing this one. It has a character that goes beyond being a perfume, it just feels like a natural part of me in the heat. Sounds dumb but there's no better way I can put it - I tried to describe it in the Missing Fragrances forum, it's got an organic living quality to it.

    L'Heure Fougueuse is now up there with Sous le Vent and Granville for me - the desert island collection for warmer weather. I went thru a bottle last summer - no shame, no regrets - one of the best purchases I have ever made.

  22. #22

    Default Re: Cartier L`Heure Fougueuse, L`Heure Diaphane and L`Heure Défendue - New Fragrances

    Quote Originally Posted by mr. reasonable View Post
    rickbr, sounds like you mean L'Heure Fougueuse? Maté / Tea / Horse Mane? (Defendue is the Cacao / Patchouli).

    I think you describe it well, as does Mike above - it's a very unique physical experience wearing this one. It has a character that goes beyond being a perfume, it just feels like a natural part of me in the heat. Sounds dumb but there's no better way I can put it - I tried to describe it in the Missing Fragrances forum, it's got an organic living quality to it.

    L'Heure Fougueuse is now up there with Sous le Vent and Granville for me - the desert island collection for warmer weather. I went thru a bottle last summer - no shame, no regrets - one of the best purchases I have ever made.
    Yes, it was Fougueuse, i don`t know why but i always think of Defendue when i want to speak about Fougueuse =/ It really feels like you said, a natural part of someone`s scent. I thought this one had cumin on it due to this aspect, because all cumin fragrances produces this effect on me. But then i saw that there is no cumin on this one...

    Curious you said about Sous Le Vent, because victoria from boisdejasmin related them too. I cannot see on my skin similarties, but Sous Le Vent is one of my favorite dry and restrained fragrances too. Granville was also one of the news from Dior Collection that i liked the most. Their dry auras seem inviting and with an unusual freshness that i apreciate a lot.

  23. #23

    Default Re: Cartier L`Heure Fougueuse, L`Heure Diaphane and L`Heure Défendue - New Fragrances

    They're all breezy, there's an effortless outdoors vibe that is common to all three, I think

    Absolutely no cumin in L'HF but it does that trick that Declaration can do where if you forget about it for a while you might suddenly get a gentle whiff and turn around to see who is there. Different scent but same 'human' presence.

    I revisited Goutal's Duel after wearing L'HF for a while and it seemed quite sweet by comparison, which is not how I would have described it before. The Mate note is certainly common to both but the interpretation is different. Laurent also pushes it in le Treizieme Heure and uses a dark Lapsang Soochong black tea thing to evoke a smokey quality, which is also really nice.

  24. #24
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    Default Re: Cartier L`Heure Fougueuse, L`Heure Diaphane and L`Heure Défendue - New Fragrances

    I wore this week both L' Heure Fougueuse (during the day, to the office) and La Treizième Heure (at a rock concert with a good friend, that evening).

    I definitely enjoy the L' Heure Fougueuse more. It's much more unique, it wears easier (I like smoke, but LTH's smoke can give me a headache sometimes) and I find after I wear it that I crave smelling it again - to me this is as much evidence as I need to investigate getting a decant of this. I wish the LHF was just a tiny bit stronger but then perhaps that would upset the delicate balance it already has and I wouldn't like it? Perhaps.

    I remember speaking to petruccijc about this, I think he owns a bottle now. Perhaps he'll see this thread & post his comments.
    "One day I will find the right words, and they will be simple"

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  25. #25
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    Default Re: Cartier L`Heure Fougueuse, L`Heure Diaphane and L`Heure Défendue - New Fragrances

    My girlfriend/significant other/person I love and have sex with every once in awhile says L'Heure Fougueuse smells "intelligent and European". I smell it as a fresh chypre with plenty of things that make it fairly unique, interesting and uplifting. Supposedly made as a tribute to Edmond Roudnitska and Eau Sauvage. Doesn't smell like ES, HF is not a greater composition than vintage Eau Sauvage, but I like the smell even better and the idea makes it all the more compelling. It's a great fragrance. I love it and give it five uplifitng stars.

    Mathilde Laurent
    mathilde_laurent.jpg

  26. #26

    Default Re: Cartier L`Heure Fougueuse, L`Heure Diaphane and L`Heure Défendue - New Fragrances

    Great to hear this, pluran.

    I'm onto my third bottle . . . generally it's a summer thing though.

  27. #27
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    Default Re: Cartier L`Heure Fougueuse, L`Heure Diaphane and L`Heure Défendue - New Fragrances

    Quote Originally Posted by mr. reasonable View Post
    Great to hear this, pluran.

    I'm onto my third bottle . . . generally it's a summer thing though.
    I hear you. I guess a few sunny days in the cold, rainy Northwest transformed my perspective. :-) I need more fresh things and it's a great one.

    High quality raw materials. Smooth as the other side of your pillow. Sort of like freshly rained on abundant and lively pristine countryside. This stuff serves the same purpose as Aventus but it’s far more natural, durable and interesting.
    Last edited by pluran; 5th February 2014 at 12:28 PM.

  28. #28
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    Default Re: Cartier L`Heure Fougueuse, L`Heure Diaphane and L`Heure Défendue - New Fragrances

    L'Heure Fougueuse is one of my preferred in this line. Very well made IMO.

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  29. #29
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    Default Re: Cartier L`Heure Fougueuse, L`Heure Diaphane and L`Heure Défendue - New Fragrances

    Quote Originally Posted by pluran View Post
    ...I smell it as a fresh chypre with plenty of things that make it fairly unique, interesting and uplifting...
    I get the 'chypre' thing ever so often when I smell this also. It has that vibrational texture to it, but in a oakmoss-less way of course. The longevity is fantastic also.

    I'm still scrounging off of my decants of this. I am pretty sure I will have to get more when I finish. Although I am equally obsessed with owning L'Heure Vertueuse III
    "One day I will find the right words, and they will be simple"

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  30. #30

    Default Re: Cartier L`Heure Fougueuse, L`Heure Diaphane and L`Heure Défendue - New Fragrances

    Mike, I only got to try L'Heure Vertueuse at the boutique but it struck me as quite similar in feel to Herba Fresca. Have you had a chance to compare them - would be very interested in your thoughts. (And . . . have we had this conversation before ? )

  31. #31

    Default Re: Cartier L`Heure Fougueuse, L`Heure Diaphane and L`Heure Défendue - New Fragrances

    If I remember correctly, there are two more 'hours' being added to the line this year, and I'm very much looking forward to trying them.

    I don't get the 'horse's mane' accord in Fougueuse (perhaps this references some kind of commercial base), but I do get a damp hay (coumarin + narcissus) vibe, together with some lightly smoked tea and a scattering of jasmine. Plus a big dose of oakmoss replacer (Evernyl). I find it wears like a woollen jumper in these cold months.

    Vertueuse is a straight out green and purple monster - there's some rough, slightly anisic lavender plus a ton of leaf alcohol (giving that cut grass smell), and a host of other green notes like Stemone. It is very linear, and comes across almost as more of an accord than a fully worked out perfume, but I still love it.

  32. #32

    Default Re: Cartier L`Heure Fougueuse, L`Heure Diaphane and L`Heure Défendue - New Fragrances

    So Mathilde still has two shots at dishing us up a riff on Guet Appens / Attrape Coeur

    I really think that's one theme that she could revisit - such a unique piece of work and looking at the quality, the 'depth of field' in the ones that she's turning out with Les Heures even with IFRA breathing down her neck, I think she could do it - with a twist, of course. I don't think there's an amber amongst them so far?

  33. #33

    Default Re: Cartier L`Heure Fougueuse, L`Heure Diaphane and L`Heure Défendue - New Fragrances

    I like the Heure IV of the entire group.
    "No sweet perfume ever tortured me more than this." Desert Rose by Sting and Cheb Mami, Album 1999.

  34. #34
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    Default Re: Cartier L`Heure Fougueuse, L`Heure Diaphane and L`Heure Défendue - New Fragrances

    Quote Originally Posted by gandhajala View Post
    .........I do get a damp hay (coumarin + narcissus) vibe, together with some lightly smoked tea and a scattering of jasmine. Plus a big dose of oakmoss replacer (Evernyl). I find it wears like a woollen jumper in these cold months........
    I keep seeing it as something fairly abstract but that's an excellent description. Balanced and abstract like a good chypre but has the liveliness of a fougere. With its little bit of lavender (lavender-coumarin-oakmoss of some kind) I guess you could call it a fougere. I'd be curious to know how Michael Edwards classifies it. Whatever. I'm glad she made it ! The woolen jumper part reminds that I need to go buy some more fine woolen trousers. :-)

    Quote Originally Posted by mr. reasonable View Post
    So Mathilde still has two shots at dishing us up a riff on Guet Appens / Attrape Coeur

    I really think that's one theme that she could revisit - such a unique piece of work and looking at the quality, the 'depth of field' in the ones that she's turning out with Les Heures even with IFRA breathing down her neck, I think she could do it - with a twist, of course. I don't think there's an amber amongst them so far?
    Guet Apens / Attrape Coeur: one of the best Guerlains ever made and they should keep making it. Last time I smelled it on my girlfriend it improved/clarified my general outlook in a profound way. Seriously beautiful stuff.
    Last edited by pluran; 5th February 2014 at 10:37 PM.

  35. #35
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    Default Re: Cartier L`Heure Fougueuse, L`Heure Diaphane and L`Heure Défendue - New Fragrances

    Quote Originally Posted by mr. reasonable View Post
    Mike, I only got to try L'Heure Vertueuse at the boutique but it struck me as quite similar in feel to Herba Fresca. Have you had a chance to compare them - would be very interested in your thoughts. (And . . . have we had this conversation before ? )
    I read your comments elsewhere, but it's been ages since I've properly sampled HF. I will remedy that this summer.
    "One day I will find the right words, and they will be simple"

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