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Thread: scent of salt

  1. #1

    Default scent of salt

    Hello,
    I am a beginner at natural perfumery. I have a jar of grey sea salt that has the most wonderful minerally marine odor. How can I capture this scent for use in my perfumes? If it were an herb or spice I would tincture it, but I think adding salt to a perfume would just make it stain clothes. What is it that I am smelling anyway? Is it a combination of many different mineral salts whose particles are small enough to get airborne when I open the jar? I welcome suggestions.

    Thanks,
    Djiril

  2. #2
    oliverandco
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    Default Re: scent of salt

    you can try it with Calone, which have a salty marine odour

  3. #3

    Default Re: scent of salt

    Calone has a melon/fresh/aquatic note. It is very powerful but not salty in my opinion.
    There are a few "salty" perfumes on the market - sel de vetiver,fleurs de sel and a couple more. I'm not sure how they acheive the salt note though... maybe David Ruskin knows...?
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  4. #4
    oliverandco
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    Default Re: scent of salt

    for me its also a salty marine note

  5. #5

    Default Re: scent of salt

    I've never understood the description "salty", although I have heard it used many times. To me, whenever "Salty" is used, I think either "Ozonic" or "Marine". Several aromachemicals have a marine odour; Calone has been mentioned, but there is also Floralozone (which is cheaper), Helional, Melonal, and even Phenylacetaldehyde which in dilution has been described as "salty". If you want fishy or seaweedy, then there are several (very expensive) Algue absolutes (absolutes derived from different types of seaweed). As always, how one achieves a particular effect is never straight forward and depends upon the mixing together of several materials. As you say you are into natural perfumery Djiril, then you may not be interested in the synthetics. I'm guessing that your sea salt smells the way it does because of trace amounts of algae and sea shells.

  6. #6

    Default Re: scent of salt

    Vetiver can have a salt like note to it.

    Hints of black spruce oil can produce a mineralic effect, as can the variety of pepper oils (or even peppery woods, such as guaiacwood).
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  7. #7

    Default Re: scent of salt

    I think the OP is looking for natural materials, not aroma chemicals. The calone-type aromachems are not "salty", they are "fresh/ozonic", which is quite different, IMO. Aromachems that in some way mimic aspects of ambergris, e.g. ambroxan, have a slightly salty, ocean-like scent. Among naturals, you could try sage and lovage. You can also easily make a tincture of seaweed, if you like that sort of note. Probably some combination of these things would work to produce a salty accord.
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  8. #8

    Default Re: scent of salt

    How could I forget to mention lovage. Yes yes, a great salty note.

    I also find some salty aspects to geranium and even lemon myrtle (amidst the sweetness).
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  9. #9

    Default Re: scent of salt

    i've just ordered some seaweed abs in alcohol from essentially me.. ill let you know what its like

  10. #10

    Default Re: scent of salt

    hiya, i got my deaweed absolute 20% alcohol dilution today with some others, and i put 2 drops of the seaweed tincture stright on my wrist with a drop each of clary sage ab tincture and mimosa and beeswax tincture and a drop of high altitude lavender eo and omg its soo amazingly salty!!! 1st was fishy and awful but now all i can smell are fresh air and salty rockpools .. its staying put like this without changing for the last hr and i cant stop smelling it!! so im biggingup the seaweed abs extrait from essentially me!

    Don't know why it worked with the other sbut it did i wish i could send u what im smelling through the screen!!

  11. #11

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    Default Re: scent of salt

    Creed's erolfa is what you need!!!

  12. #12

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    Default Re: scent of salt

    Erolfa is very salty at least to me it is

  13. #13

    Default Re: scent of salt

    You could also try adding a bit of coriander EO to your blend; I find it very 'salty' scented.

  14. #14

    Default Re: scent of salt

    Kenzo PH is pure salt to me.

    And Burberry The Beat is a spicy salt.

  15. #15

    Default Re: scent of salt

    Sel de Vetiver and Heeley Sel Marin are the two to beat in my opinion, the Heeley actually having some seaweed notes. Profumum's Aqua di Sale (is that the name?) is a much cleaner, linear version with a fennel/liquorice note. I am with some of the others who feel that Calone is not really salty at all, but we have come to associate it with fresh ozonic frags.

    Anyone have any idea how the salt note is achieved in Sel de Vetiver? I find it addictive...

  16. #16

    Default Re: scent of salt

    How about Black Pepper? This might work by association. Also I find Ambroxan to have sort of creamy saltiness.

  17. #17

    Default Re: scent of salt

    I've been trying to find a good salt note for awhile. I'm now actually going through my stock of aromachemicals to find it.
    Thank you for the suggestions!

  18. #18

    Default Re: scent of salt

    Quote Originally Posted by Atriel View Post
    I've been trying to find a good salt note for awhile. I'm now actually going through my stock of aromachemicals to find it.
    Thank you for the suggestions!
    Ill be interested to know how you get on with that. Personally I find saltiness to be absent from, for example ambroxan, which is the key effective ingredient in real ambergris, even though you often do get a marine note from actual ambergris. That suggests that the salty effect is coming from other elements in the gris.

    Looking back at the OP, the smell of salt from a jar of sea-salt suggests something similar because a jar of purified salt has very little smell at all.

    Seaweed absolute does not give much in the way of saltiness to me either, though I observe some people do perceive salt in it. So again that might be down to some other salt that is in seawater besides sodium chloride, that becomes detectable only when the other elements of the seaweed have faded.
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  19. #19

    Default Re: scent of salt

    I don't detect any salt in ambroxan, calone, helional or melonal. Aquatic notes in a couple of them, yes. Melon in others but no salt.

  20. #20

    Default Re: scent of salt

    Quote Originally Posted by Atriel View Post
    I don't detect any salt in ambroxan, calone, helional or melonal. Aquatic notes in a couple of them, yes. Melon in others but no salt.
    I agree - none of those seem salty to me either.

    The Good Scents Company list only one chemical as having a salty odour: cis-4-heptenal diethyl acetal on the other hand they also suggest a very long list of other diethyl acetals as being similar. Im afraid none of them is in my current collection or listed by my regular suppliers, except citral diethyl acetal and thats oily-citrus rather than salty.
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  21. #21

    Default Re: scent of salt

    I find that ambergris tincture, reduced down to eliminate the alcohol (leaving a waxy aromatic residue) has a brilliant effect which brings to mind saltiness. It doesn't actually capture the smell of a good fleur de sel but there's what I can only describe as a clarity reminiscent of the beach.

  22. #22

    Default Re: scent of salt

    I know what you mean about ambergris - it usually has a salty / seaweed edge to it that is lacking in pure ambroxan. Each piece is different however and some are much more animalic or earthy.
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  23. #23

    Default Re: scent of salt

    Yes, one of my tinctures smells like castoreum.

  24. #24

    Default Re: scent of salt

    Quote Originally Posted by twinpeaker View Post
    Anyone have any idea how the salt note is achieved in Sel de Vetiver? I find it addictive...
    Sel de Vetiver is indeed very addictive.
    I played a bit around with some ingredients and found out that
    methyl pamplemousse, cardamom eo, clary sage eo, aldehyde C12 mna, Elemi, Lovage tincture, has some salty effect. I made my own lovage tincture with lovage from my garden, because the lovage eo smells more like instant soup. The tincture creates that "salt on skin" effect. For the distinctive solar smell you can add a bit bourbon geranium eo and ylang ylang or cananga odorata eo. There is also patchouli eo or patchouli hexanol in it and of course a special vetiver which is less earthy and more smoky...or the other way around ( or both less ), i dont keep such a vetiver.
    In the opening of "Sel de Vetiver" is a slightly harsh medicinal sort of smell and i cant put my finger on it, i cant detect the ingedient that is responsible for that lovely smell. Its like spray of sea foam right in your face.

    Regards Conni

  25. #25

    Default Salt accord

    There are good advices already given here,
    but im fiddling on a salt accord for ages. Any other new suggestions, David, Paul ??

    Regards Conni

  26. #26
    Paul Kiler
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    Default Re: scent of salt

    Conni, I haven't worked on a Salt Accord... the only thing that comes close is the Seaweed abs that I have,...
    My 8 yr old son and I have been making scents to his ideas, with my input for compliments and ratios, and we put a bit of the seaweed abs in his latest tropical Hawaii themed frag concentrate, which stays on the top, (which is odd for an Abs,) but it is so very strong... It reminds me of briney/saltiness.

    My friend Shelley Waddington made a recent frag with a salt note, but I haven't asked her what she did for it yet. just for kicks, have you tried to tincture salt in alcohol?
    Paul Kiler
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  27. #27

    Default Re: scent of salt

    Paul, no i havnt tried to make a salt tinkture because for me salt has no odour.
    But maybe it is worth tinkture some unpurified sea salt, i mean that still slightly wet grey sea salt from an organic shop.
    Algae abs. has a salty smell but smells also a bit fishy which i find not matching.

    regards Conni

  28. #28

    Default Re: scent of salt

    If you try to make a tincture of salt, you will end up with a solution of salt in alcohol! Salt is soluble in alcohol. It is also odourless. I heard once ( although I don't remember where) that the key to the smell of the sea, the "salty smell", is Dimethyl sulphide , at a very low level. On its own it smells of slightly rotting cabbage, but at the right level, apparently, you get the sea.

  29. #29

    Default Re: scent of salt

    Dimethyl sulphide, thats interesting ! Thanks David !

  30. #30

    Default Re: scent of salt

    Quote Originally Posted by Conni HD View Post
    Dimethyl sulphide, thats interesting ! Thanks David !
    Be careful if you use it. Dimethyl Sulphide, whilst very volatile (lasts for minutes on a smelling strip) is very strong, and at high concentration, very unpleasant. It smells like rotting cabbage, but in low doses provides an unusual floralicy. DMS is found in Geranium Oil. I don't know for sure if DMS is part of the salt smell, it's just that I read an article that mentioned it being in the general smell by the sea.

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