Code of Conduct
Results 1 to 33 of 33
  1. #1

    Default HELP identify Guerlain sample!

    My g/f received a Guerlain sample in a recent swap that we have no idea what it is (neither does the one who swapped it to us, unfortunately).

    The sample vial is long and slender, maybe 5 or 7 ml, is glass and simply has "Guerlain" written in gold text on the side. It has a white stopper at the end - one of those that doesn't have a dip stick. The juice inside is somewhere between amber and gold in color, with a slightly coppery/orange element to the hue.

    Regarding the smell, it opens with a VERY almondy, sweet, and marzipan like accord. It's thick and sweet and dense. Pretty soon some spices join the way - it's blended very well and the notes are not distinct, but they do offer a much needed counterpoint to the sweetness. Within 30 minutes or so the sweetness has receded a bit and it's out of pure gourmand territory, with the spices and a woody note slowly gaining more prominence. It doesn't change much as it dries down.. at one point my g/f commented that the dry down recalled Obsession for Women for her, and I have to agree there is some similarities.

    It is dense, rich and beautiful and I'd love to know what this might be. I do have an educated guess but I'm not even going to mention what that is yet because I don't want to influence the responses. Please, help me solve this mystery!

    edit: I should also add that it smells unisex. The opening is a bit feminine in its dense and rich sweetness, but once the spices and counterpoint arrive, it becomes unisex possibly even leaning a tiny bit masculine.

    edit 2: longevity is very good and sillage is good to moderate, but not cloying. This stuff smells VERY rich and very smooth and very high quality, besting nearly any Amouage or Xerjoff I've ever smelled.
    Last edited by SculptureOfSoul; 21st November 2010 at 02:46 PM.
    ***For sale:

    Iris Pallida 50ml

    Ungaro I 75ml

    and more!
    - http://www.basenotes.net/threads/301...n-Man-and-more

  2. #2
    Moderator

    Redneck Perfumisto's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Spiritually, Kansas
    Posts
    13,298
    Blog Entries
    37

    Default Re: HELP identify Guerlain sample!

    My immediate guess is Boise Torride. The vial sounds like standard Guerlain, so no help there. Boise Torride is an amazing gourmand, but not overly, very unisex, with shades of Obsession (all versions). It's an FB contender for me. Tiny bit feminine, but easily wearable by a guy (my wife did not question gender when I wore my sample, which she does when things get too obviously white floral). I thought it was awesome stuff.

    Edit: Just rechecked the top notes. Sweet and somewhat almondy / liqueuerish. I'm sticking with BT as my guess.

    More Opinion: Totally underrated. I think Boise Torride is one of the classiest, sexiest gourmands out there. It's good stuff - very Guerlain, a bit on the modern side. It does have that same richness as Amouage, but keeps the Guerlain distinction (which in this case is less "guerlinade" and more "typical modern Guerlain femme gourmand whatever"), without being borderline cloying, which some Guerlain feminines are for me.
    Last edited by Redneck Perfumisto; 21st November 2010 at 03:52 PM.
    * * * *

  3. #3

    Default Re: HELP identify Guerlain sample!

    Thanks for the suggestion RP. Looking at the notes list on Fragrantica BT doesn't seem right, but your description sounds fairly close.

    Some more thoughts on the sample:

    I think I get some tobacco in the dry down. If anything, it's more like a sweet tobacco absolute note

    I thought I picked up a hint of cherries in the early middle phase

    The color of the juice is perhaps closest to Cuir Beluga or Tonka Imperiale from the pics (see here: http://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/G...luga-1019.html )
    ***For sale:

    Iris Pallida 50ml

    Ungaro I 75ml

    and more!
    - http://www.basenotes.net/threads/301...n-Man-and-more

  4. #4

    Default Re: HELP identify Guerlain sample!

    The one other scent that came to mind when smelling it was L de Lolita Lempicka, although this is MUCH richer, fuller, deeper, more masculine, and all around better. Unquestionably so. Still, there are some similarities in odor profile (probably the almondy notes)
    ***For sale:

    Iris Pallida 50ml

    Ungaro I 75ml

    and more!
    - http://www.basenotes.net/threads/301...n-Man-and-more

  5. #5
    Moderator

    Redneck Perfumisto's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Spiritually, Kansas
    Posts
    13,298
    Blog Entries
    37

    Default Re: HELP identify Guerlain sample!

    Tonka Imperiale is also rather almondy - that was my other guess, although I tend not to think of it as being so gourmandy. Both of my samples have pinkish juice, so I'm not really sure there. The difference in illumination is so significant in just a sample vial under different conditions, I'm reluctant to compare with a full bottle. Sniffing is still probably the best way.

    I'm going to do a side-by-side on those now and see what the development is like for both....

    Edit: The juice of both looks nearly identical when held up to an illuminated white background, looking through the vials - it's a lot like what you describe in both cases. TI is a bit more orange, and BT a bit more rosy, but both are coppery/orange as you describe.

    Looking for significant differences on skin (which is a bit of a risk), TI has a very distinct, somewhat powdery coumarin note which BT doesn't seem to have. BT seems to have something like a subdued chypre note which is more out front during the heart, and gives it a bit more femininity. The overall early heart is more opaque and gourmand in TI than BT.

    My wife thinks TI is the sweeter of the two, and prefers BT.
    Last edited by Redneck Perfumisto; 21st November 2010 at 04:51 PM.
    * * * *

  6. #6

    Default Re: HELP identify Guerlain sample!

    Could it be 180 Ans?

    It starts with orange or mandarin with almond.
    Evenstar

  7. #7

    Default Re: HELP identify Guerlain sample!

    The thing is Guerlain always seem to use heliotrope which has an almond like vibe.

    I am going to say Iris Granache. Rich, sweet and gourmand.
    DONNA

  8. #8
    rogalal's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Berkeley, California
    Posts
    3,370
    Blog Entries
    33

    Default Re: HELP identify Guerlain sample!

    I have a sample of Tonka Imperiale in that exact vial and your description sounds remarkably like my review of it here, though I didn't catch the almond the first time I tried it (but it's pretty obvious now that I've had it pointed out a couple times)...
    Has everyone checked out my Top 100 Blog??

  9. #9

    Default Re: HELP identify Guerlain sample!

    I have an impression that maybe your girlfriend received a sample of Mon Precieux Nectar. Mon Precieux Nectar reminds me off expensive marzipan. Or it may be Tonka Imperiale too.

    BTW, these vials doesn't have either 5ml or 8ml. They are between 3ml and 4ml. I know because i have already receive some, and poured them to a 10ml spray bottle that i have, and the content stayd under the 5ml mark.

  10. #10

    Default Re: HELP identify Guerlain sample!

    Quote Originally Posted by SculptureOfSoul View Post
    Thanks for the suggestion RP. Looking at the notes list on Fragrantica BT doesn't seem right, but your description sounds fairly close.

    Some more thoughts on the sample:

    I think I get some tobacco in the dry down. If anything, it's more like a sweet tobacco absolute note

    I thought I picked up a hint of cherries in the early middle phase

    The color of the juice is perhaps closest to Cuir Beluga or Tonka Imperiale from the pics (see here: http://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/G...luga-1019.html )
    Now that i saw your description, i'm 100% sure that is Tonka Imperiale. Tonka Imperiale has a tobacco absolute note, and there is something of cherry liqueur - syrup too in it.

    If it were Cuir Beluga, you would dectect hints of soft suedish leather too. And there is also that the sweet aroma in Cuir Beluga is more vanilla-ish than almondy marzipan.

  11. #11

    Default Re: HELP identify Guerlain sample!

    Quote Originally Posted by Redneck Perfumisto View Post
    My immediate guess is Boise Torride. The vial sounds like standard Guerlain, so no help there. Boise Torride is an amazing gourmand, but not overly, very unisex, with shades of Obsession (all versions). It's an FB contender for me. Tiny bit feminine, but easily wearable by a guy (my wife did not question gender when I wore my sample, which she does when things get too obviously white floral). I thought it was awesome stuff.

    Edit: Just rechecked the top notes. Sweet and somewhat almondy / liqueuerish. I'm sticking with BT as my guess.

    More Opinion: Totally underrated. I think Boise Torride is one of the classiest, sexiest gourmands out there. It's good stuff - very Guerlain, a bit on the modern side. It does have that same richness as Amouage, but keeps the Guerlain distinction (which in this case is less "guerlinade" and more "typical modern Guerlain femme gourmand whatever"), without being borderline cloying, which some Guerlain feminines are for me.
    I don't think it was Boise Torride, since Boise Torride starts with a cherry- sweet red fruit accord, and there is nothing in it which reminds of Obsession. There is also that Boise Torride goes to a flower heart, dominated by jasmine, neróli and orange flower, and this section goes far from the description of SculputreofSoul. So, in my opinion, this is not Boise Torride

  12. #12

    Default Re: HELP identify Guerlain sample!

    Quote Originally Posted by arwen_elf View Post
    Could it be 180 Ans?

    It starts with orange or mandarin with almond.
    It'd be strange if guerlain SA still had 180 ans to distribute as samples. It's a gorgeous fragrance, which reminds me of L'Instant Pour Homme with less woods. But there's something slightly animalic on 180 ans whichs is not mentioned in the description, so i have my doubts it'd be it.

  13. #13
    Moderator

    Redneck Perfumisto's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Spiritually, Kansas
    Posts
    13,298
    Blog Entries
    37

    Default Re: HELP identify Guerlain sample!

    Quote Originally Posted by rickbr View Post
    I don't think it was Boise Torride, since Boise Torride starts with a cherry- sweet red fruit accord, and there is nothing in it which reminds of Obsession. There is also that Boise Torride goes to a flower heart, dominated by jasmine, neróli and orange flower, and this section goes far from the description of SculputreofSoul. So, in my opinion, this is not Boise Torride
    I agree - it's probably not Boise Torride, or at least it is much more likely Tonka Imperiale. After wearing both of them this afternoon, it's clear that Tonka Imperiale is very close to the original description in terms of the overall structure. And I also sensed a tobacco-like note in the heart of TI, but never in BT. And the spicy notes in the middle of TI seem to match the description in particular. [However, my (perhaps dysfunctional) nose still stands by its interpretation of BT as having shades of Obsession, mostly because it seems less gourmand and more ambery and oriental in nature (and in particular, more so than Tonka Imperiale, where I just don't see it at all).]

    My only reservation on Tonka Imperiale - I'm a bit surprised that the tonka wasn't more apparent to SoS, because for me it's fairly obvious. That would be the only thing making me question Tonka Imperiale. Otherwise, that sounds like the winner.
    * * * *

  14. #14

    Default Re: HELP identify Guerlain sample!

    Ha! I have never noticed a tobacco note on Tonka Imperial. I am running to my decant box to find it!
    Evenstar

  15. #15
    Moderator

    Redneck Perfumisto's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Spiritually, Kansas
    Posts
    13,298
    Blog Entries
    37

    Default Re: HELP identify Guerlain sample!

    Quote Originally Posted by rogalal View Post
    I have a sample of Tonka Imperiale in that exact vial and your description sounds remarkably like my review of it here, though I didn't catch the almond the first time I tried it (but it's pretty obvious now that I've had it pointed out a couple times)...
    And check out mtgprox's review further down in the thread. More similarities there, too!

    Quote Originally Posted by arwen_elf View Post
    Ha! I have never noticed a tobacco note on Tonka Imperial. I am running to my decant box to find it!
    Watch for it carefully during the entire development, because it only appears briefly for me. It's not prominent for long by my nose, and it came during the heart for me, not during the drydown.

    Damn this thread. I now realize that Boise Torride is definitely FBW. I'm already sitting on three recent FB candidates from Guerlain, and that's not even counting pricey beauties like Secrets of Sophie and QVLP. I'm going to have to rent a dolly and a U-Haul the next time I visit the boutique.

    * * * *

  16. #16

    Default Re: HELP identify Guerlain sample!

    Quote Originally Posted by Redneck Perfumisto View Post
    My only reservation on Tonka Imperiale - I'm a bit surprised that the tonka wasn't more apparent to SoS, because for me it's fairly obvious. That would be the only thing making me question Tonka Imperiale. Otherwise, that sounds like the winner.
    Actually, I did pick up tonka fairly clearly but I didn't want to mention that, or the fact that all of my research and review reading led me to think it was Tonka Imperiale (I found a review which corroborated the comparison to Obsession for Women, and also many others that mentioned it starting with a marzipan sweetness) because I just wasn't sure and I didn't want to skew others' opinions into supporting my guess. I wanted to see what else it may be just in case it turns out that it isn't Tonka Imperiale, although now I really do believe that is what it is.

    Another reason I was rather unsure of myself originally is that I am woefully inexperienced when it comes to Guerlain - both their new and classic scents, having tried only a handful of their newer scents, and mostly the easy to find feminines. This scent here is quite like nothing I've ever tried in its absolute richness. It is like the perfume equivalent of cheese cake; not something I'd want to (or should!) eat every day, but absolutely perfect when the craving strikes. Decadent!

    I am going to have to track down a sample of Bois Torride though, as the reviews make it sound excellent. I am really jonesing to try the whole L’Art et la Matière line now though - something I had no interest in (due to my lack of Guerlain experience) prior to yesterday. This.. could get expensive!
    ***For sale:

    Iris Pallida 50ml

    Ungaro I 75ml

    and more!
    - http://www.basenotes.net/threads/301...n-Man-and-more

  17. #17

    Default Re: HELP identify Guerlain sample!

    Quote Originally Posted by SculptureOfSoul View Post
    Actually, I did pick up tonka fairly clearly but I didn't want to mention that, or the fact that all of my research and review reading led me to think it was Tonka Imperiale (I found a review which corroborated the comparison to Obsession for Women, and also many others that mentioned it starting with a marzipan sweetness) because I just wasn't sure and I didn't want to skew others' opinions into supporting my guess. I wanted to see what else it may be just in case it turns out that it isn't Tonka Imperiale, although now I really do believe that is what it is.

    Another reason I was rather unsure of myself originally is that I am woefully inexperienced when it comes to Guerlain - both their new and classic scents, having tried only a handful of their newer scents, and mostly the easy to find feminines. This scent here is quite like nothing I've ever tried in its absolute richness. It is like the perfume equivalent of cheese cake; not something I'd want to (or should!) eat every day, but absolutely perfect when the craving strikes. Decadent!

    I am going to have to track down a sample of Bois Torride though, as the reviews make it sound excellent. I am really jonesing to try the whole L’Art et la Matière line now though - something I had no interest in (due to my lack of Guerlain experience) prior to yesterday. This.. could get expensive!
    If you gonna try Matière line, my advice is that you start with bois d'armenie first. It's the best of the line

  18. #18

    Default Re: HELP identify Guerlain sample!

    Does the whole line smell as high quality, thick and rich as Tonka Imperiale?
    ***For sale:

    Iris Pallida 50ml

    Ungaro I 75ml

    and more!
    - http://www.basenotes.net/threads/301...n-Man-and-more

  19. #19
    Moderator

    Redneck Perfumisto's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Spiritually, Kansas
    Posts
    13,298
    Blog Entries
    37

    Default Re: HELP identify Guerlain sample!

    Quote Originally Posted by rickbr View Post
    If you gonna try Matière line, my advice is that you start with bois d'armenie first. It's the best of the line
    Dang - I forgot about that one! That was the one that almost eked out Derby. The "Guerlain To-Buy List" grows.....

    Quote Originally Posted by SculptureOfSoul View Post
    Does the whole line smell as high quality, thick and rich as Tonka Imperiale?


    Get your dessert forks ready, bro.
    * * * *

  20. #20

    Default Re: HELP identify Guerlain sample!

    In some ways this scent feels like a wintery, warmer, gourmand version of Reflection Man. They share jasmine, rosemary, coumarin and orange blossom along with cedar.

    In fact, it's the herbal component of this used to offset the sweetness that impresses me so. There's just something about the accord - it is just edgy/rough/scratchy enough to be interesting but not irritating.

    I just fear that this may be one of those scents that it is easy to quickly grow tired of. Has anyone had that experience with Tonka Imperiale?
    ***For sale:

    Iris Pallida 50ml

    Ungaro I 75ml

    and more!
    - http://www.basenotes.net/threads/301...n-Man-and-more

  21. #21
    Moderator

    Redneck Perfumisto's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Spiritually, Kansas
    Posts
    13,298
    Blog Entries
    37

    Default Re: HELP identify Guerlain sample!

    Quote Originally Posted by SculptureOfSoul View Post
    I just fear that this may be one of those scents that it is easy to quickly grow tired of. Has anyone had that experience with Tonka Imperiale?
    To be honest, that's my experience with ALL Guerlains - I just fall in and out of love with them over and over and over. They are HARD to wear every day, and some of them I can't even wear two days in a row. But it's OK.

    The analogy with dessert is very complete for me. One or two good ones a week - that's what I want. Just because I don't eat double-chocolate raspberry cheesecake every day, doesn't mean I don't love it.

    Guerlain is an intense experience for me. I don't know anybody who would wear the line every day. Perhaps Mr. Guerlain. I simply can't. And I wouldn't push it, because I WANT to keep loving them. The closest I came was Guerlain Homme Intense - I went a bit nuts on that one for a few weeks. Now it's just a mainstay.

    Don't marry Guerlain is my advice. Multiple affairs is the way to go.
    Last edited by Redneck Perfumisto; 21st November 2010 at 10:31 PM.
    * * * *

  22. #22

    Default Re: HELP identify Guerlain sample!

    @SOS - really, you need to send a PM to Mr G -he's the one best qualified to identify the fragrance (big respect to those who have submitted their opinion).

    http://www.basenotes.net/members/10936-Mr.-G

  23. #23

    Default Re: HELP identify Guerlain sample!

    my guess: Tonka Imperiale

  24. #24

    Default Re: HELP identify Guerlain sample!

    I strongly suspect it may be Plus Que Jamais.

  25. #25

    Default Re: HELP identify Guerlain sample!

    Quote Originally Posted by Redneck Perfumisto View Post
    To be honest, that's my experience with ALL Guerlains - I just fall in and out of love with them over and over and over. They are HARD to wear every day, and some of them I can't even wear two days in a row. But it's OK.

    The analogy with dessert is very complete for me. One or two good ones a week - that's what I want. Just because I don't eat double-chocolate raspberry cheesecake every day, doesn't mean I don't love it.

    Guerlain is an intense experience for me. I don't know anybody who would wear the line every day. Perhaps Mr. Guerlain. I simply can't. And I wouldn't push it, because I WANT to keep loving them. The closest I came was Guerlain Homme Intense - I went a bit nuts on that one for a few weeks. Now it's just a mainstay.

    Don't marry Guerlain is my advice. Multiple affairs is the way to go.
    The gourmand ones are quite hard to wear it daily, they are sort of multiple affairs, you`re right. But then, there are some more discreet ones, like philtre d'amour, coriolan, sous le vent, that seems classy, balanced, that are pleasant to be worn everyday and not hard to get sick.

  26. #26

    Default Re: HELP identify Guerlain sample!

    Quote Originally Posted by SculptureOfSoul View Post
    Does the whole line smell as high quality, thick and rich as Tonka Imperiale?
    The only exception in this thick and rich style is Bois d`Armenie - which has a light aura incredible long-lasting. It`s, for me, a soft incense, barely sweet, slightly spicy aroma that keeps comming and disappearing on skin during all the day, in a misterious mood hard to explain, but (for me) easy to love. It`s the best of the line i think.

    The others follow the sweet, dessert line of Tonka Imperiale. The one that i disliked most was Angelique Noir. There`s something on it that reminds me off bitter-sweet cough syrup...

  27. #27

    Default Re: HELP identify Guerlain sample!

    Thanks for that compliment! Not sure if I'm worthy. Always find it so difficult to get the scent from reading the words, a bit like hearing the melody from seeing the note sheet, isn't it? But my first thought from post#1 was also: Tonka Imperiale. Coumarin in itself smells between marzipan, hay and tobacco, and TI adds notes that compliment the gourmand aspects of tonka bean, so can't really be anything else. Plus Que Jamais was not gourmand really, and Nectar was never made a sample, plus it was not spiced.

    True, I wear Guerlain every day. I've always loved rich food, desserts and brandy, but Guerlain doesn't make you fat!

    Quote Originally Posted by Dr_Rudi View Post
    @SOS - really, you need to send a PM to Mr G -he's the one best qualified to identify the fragrance (big respect to those who have submitted their opinion).

    http://www.basenotes.net/members/10936-Mr.-G

  28. #28

    Default Re: HELP identify Guerlain sample!

    Thanks for the feedback everyone.

    If my love for this continues as is, I'll eventually want a bottle, and will track down a sample of Tonka Imperiale to confirm that is what it is. If it isn't, well, I'll surely be trying everything else mentioned in this thread! Thanks again!
    ***For sale:

    Iris Pallida 50ml

    Ungaro I 75ml

    and more!
    - http://www.basenotes.net/threads/301...n-Man-and-more

  29. #29

    Default Re: HELP identify Guerlain sample!

    Well, I tried it again yesterday and could not smell an obvious note of tobacco. It really must be very subtle, for a while I could smell something that reminded my of Lagerfeld classic, but was overpowered by the tonka. Perhaps that was the tobacco and hay notes.
    Evenstar

  30. #30

    Default Re: HELP identify Guerlain sample!

    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. G View Post
    Plus Que Jamais was not gourmand really, and Nectar was never made a sample, plus it was not spiced.
    How odd. I get a very definite sense of 'gourmand' from my Plus Que Jamais sample (under the aldehydes). It was all marzipan, toffee-sweet and lightly spiced - a creamy tonka/vanilla brulée.

  31. #31

    Default Re: HELP identify Guerlain sample!

    Quote Originally Posted by Sorcery of Scent View Post
    How odd. I get a very definite sense of 'gourmand' from my Plus Que Jamais sample (under the aldehydes). It was all marzipan, toffee-sweet and lightly spiced - a creamy tonka/vanilla brulée.
    Isn`t plus que jamais considered as a dry chypre too? I remind LT classifying some of the more exclusives like this, and it`s not Philtre d`Amour or Sous Le Vent. I always think it`s plus que jamais, but it may be another one.
    And also, was this discontinued or it was only a limited edition?

  32. #32

    Default Re: HELP identify Guerlain sample!

    I just want to update everyone on this..

    A very VERY generous and sweet BNer (you know who you are, thank you again!) gifted me a number of Guerlain samples and I've now confirmed that the original sample in question was indeed Tonka Imperiale. Thanks for all your help, everyone!
    ***For sale:

    Iris Pallida 50ml

    Ungaro I 75ml

    and more!
    - http://www.basenotes.net/threads/301...n-Man-and-more

  33. #33

    Default Re: HELP identify Guerlain sample!

    Quote Originally Posted by SculptureOfSoul View Post
    I just want to update everyone on this..

    A very VERY generous and sweet BNer (you know who you are, thank you again!) gifted me a number of Guerlain samples and I've now confirmed that the original sample in question was indeed Tonka Imperiale. Thanks for all your help, everyone!
    So the mistery had a happy ending?

    Tonka Imperiale is one of my favorites from that line. I think i`ll need to buy a bottle when i finish my decant...

Similar Threads

  1. Guerlain: pls help identify which one!
    By Sorcery of Scent in forum Female Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 1st September 2007, 01:55 PM
  2. Help me identify a Guerlain mini
    By Riccigirl in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 9th June 2007, 10:54 AM
  3. spraying at store vs 1 ml sample vs 2.5 ml sample vs 5 ml sample
    By supermarky in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 4th February 2007, 02:37 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •