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  1. #1

    Default Tonka Imperiale, and other Guerlain exclusives

    So, after sampling the guerlain exclusive line I've been desperately looking for a good vanilla. I already own Shalimar, Hypnotic Poison, Tobacco Vanilla, but I was looking for something dryer with a cloudier projection, sort of similar to Ambre Precieux.

    So far, From what I tried in the line:
    .I like SDV: But save for the lovely opening, it's basically tobacco vanille-light
    .I LOVE Gourmand Coquin: but even for a guy who has more women perfumes than men, this is a little too feminine.
    .I like Tonka Imperiale the most, but it fades in 1 hour.

    I'm yet to try Angelique Noir and Bois d'Armenie. I would purchase Tonka Imperiale if it lasted and projected better. But it feels weird, I can detect a strong hit of it every few hours sometimes, is this a case of a fragrance your nose gets used to too quickly, so you can't smell it?

    Would you guys recommend anything similar, that has Tonka, Vanilla and Almonds? as I said I already own Dior's HP. I'm considering Keiko Mecheri Loukhoum Parfum du Soir. I'm still looking for that yummy vanilla fragrance, that's more modern than Shalimar, yet drier and more complex than TV and HP. Needless to say I like my fragrance strong.

    And while we're on it, Any guys who wear Gourmand Coquin? should I just grow a pair and get a bottle, it feels like a fantastic layering fragrance.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Tonka Imperiale, and other Guerlain exclusives

    Have you tried Guerlain's Cuir Beluga? It's vanilla, lots of vanilla. A touch of soft suede and sweet, creamy vanilla which makes me think of vanilla icecream.

    Edit: noticed you were looking for dry, so this probably won't fit...

  3. #3

    Default Re: Tonka Imperiale, and other Guerlain exclusives

    I think you will like Bois d'Armenie. Please report when you get to smell BdA and AN.

    How about Un Bois Vanille by Serge Lutens? Projection is strong.
    Last edited by volley2; 16th January 2011 at 02:51 PM.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Tonka Imperiale, and other Guerlain exclusives

    Tott: I'll give that one a try, I truly dislike leather fragrances, save for Duro which I sampled lately. I'll give that one a try though, Dry is perhaps not the best word to describe what I'm looking for. I'm just looking for something more smoky and cloudy, sort of like Tonka Imperiale. For example, Tobacco Vanille has a syrpy dried fruit touch to it, it's fantastic, but I get bored of it quickly. As I said I want something like Ambre Precieux but more vanilla/tonka/almond based. Gourmand coquin would've been perfect if it wasn't a little too girly sweet.

    Volly2: I will. I tried Un Bois Vanille, it has the middle eastern desert vibe to it, it feels a little sticky. I like it and I might buy it at some point, but certainly not what I'm looking for.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Tonka Imperiale, and other Guerlain exclusives

    Have you tried Vanille intense by Parfums de Nicolai?

    FWIW, I much prefer SDV over Tobacco Vanille

  6. #6

    Default Re: Tonka Imperiale, and other Guerlain exclusives

    Felanilla by Parfumerie Generale
    Eau Duelle by Diptyque

  7. #7

    Default Re: Tonka Imperiale, and other Guerlain exclusives

    Angelique Noire is ALL about vanilla but it's unique because it's creamy and a bit bitter simultaneously. I also recommend Iris Ganache which starts out very dry with that signature "Apres L'ondee" iris root note but turns very chocolaty and warm.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Tonka Imperiale, and other Guerlain exclusives

    mrclmind: No I haven't tried anything by PdN. I've heard good things about their Vanilla and Tonka fragrances, and some "it smells nasty" comments. I prefer SDV over TV, but the difference is minimal after the first 30 mins for me, so I rather get the stronger cheaper one.

    Volley2: I completly forgot about PG, I've heard their No10 (aomossi?) and No4 (Musc Moari) are pretty good in this genre as well. I'll give them a try. I'd buy them blind from the description alone, but the PG fragrance I have are really too weak for my taste.

    oh and I already own a decant of Eau Duelle which I like a lot

    Again, thanks for the suggestions guys.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Tonka Imperiale, and other Guerlain exclusives

    Quote Originally Posted by scent View Post
    Angelique Noire is ALL about vanilla but it's unique because it's creamy and a bit bitter simultaneously. I also recommend Iris Ganache which starts out very dry with that signature "Apres L'ondee" iris root note but turns very chocolaty and warm.
    AN sounds fantastic! it might be just what I'm looking for if it combines creamy vanilla with bitter.

    I gave the Iris a try on paper, I didn't like it much, maybe because I'm viewing it as an Iris fragrance.

    Bleh, Guerlain should make a sample set of their exclusives, I can't go to the mall everyday begging for decants, they all sound fantastic and it's so hard to find the right one.

  10. #10

    Default Re: Tonka Imperiale, and other Guerlain exclusives

    Quote Originally Posted by Ekove View Post
    mrclmind: No I haven't tried anything by PdN. I've heard good things about their Vanilla and Tonka fragrances, and some "it smells nasty" comments.
    Vanille intense is very different from her Tonka Vanille (which, surprisingly enough is actually my favorite frankincense scent!). They are both worth sampling, and the price point is very reasonable.

  11. #11
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    Default Re: Tonka Imperiale, and other Guerlain exclusives

    Have you tried Le Labo's Vanille 44?
    We're all in the same game; just different levels. Dealing with the same hell; just different devils.

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  12. #12

    Default Re: Tonka Imperiale, and other Guerlain exclusives

    Quote Originally Posted by tott View Post
    Have you tried Guerlain's Cuir Beluga? It's vanilla, lots of vanilla. A touch of soft suede and sweet, creamy vanilla which makes me think of vanilla icecream. Edit: noticed you were looking for dry, so this probably won't fit...
    I think your original hunch was a good one - I bet Evoke would like this. Turin desribed it in The Guide as, A light, heliotropin vanillic amber with a touch of floral green notes in the heart and a smidgen of suede. - Turin's very good at being direct. Wish there was more of this in The Guide.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Tonka Imperiale, and other Guerlain exclusives

    Thanks for the suggestions guys. I really want to keep PdN a try, sadly I can't find them anywhere here, I should get samples from Luckyscent but I hate vials, rubbing a perfume gives a different experience than spraying it.

    And I haven't tried le labo vanilla, I really dislike the le labo line save for their fantastic take on Iris. What kind of vanilla is it?

  14. #14

    Default Re: Tonka Imperiale, and other Guerlain exclusives

    Quote Originally Posted by Ekove View Post
    And I haven't tried le labo vanilla, I really dislike the le labo line save for their fantastic take on Iris. What kind of vanilla is it?
    It's dry and has that cloud effect you're looking for, but it isn't very vanilla dominant. More gaiac woods and transparent incense. No almonds and tonka bean.

    You might like Rahät Loukoum.

  15. #15

    Default Re: Tonka Imperiale, and other Guerlain exclusives

    One question guys, where do you guy buy/test these Guerlain exclusives ?
    AUSSIES, come join our SPLIT GROUP at http://groups.google.com.au/group/oz-scent-splits

    "No Pain, No Gain"

  16. #16

    Default Re: Tonka Imperiale, and other Guerlain exclusives

    Quote Originally Posted by nsamadi View Post
    It's dry and has that cloud effect you're looking for, but it isn't very vanilla dominant. More gaiac woods and transparent incense. No almonds and tonka bean.

    You might like Rahät Loukoum.
    Yes I wanted to test Rahat Loukoum, but it's too expensive and not accessible for me. Serge Lutens is my favorite house and I don't mind dishing $250 on a perfume, but that's still much for a blind buy. I've heard Keiko Meheri Loukhoum Parfum du Soir is close enough, cheaper, and some even claim it's better. HAve you tried it?

    And ohhmygod: you can try them at guerlain boutiques. Sometimes high end stores carry them, in the case of the USA Saks fifth avenue carries them in some locations. Just check Guerlains website for locations near you of boutiques. If you can't do that, you'll have to resort to buying samples which can be very expensive ($10 for 1ml). Guerlains exclusives are very exclusive, and while they're generous with samples in-store, it's almost against their policy to send them online because, well, they truly wanna keep it exclusive it seems.

  17. #17

    Default Re: Tonka Imperiale, and other Guerlain exclusives

    I've tried the Keiko. It's nice, smoother and more sheer. It has that cloud projection. It's worth investigating. Though it's missing that sweet, thick, heavy, syrup gourmand feel that you might be looking for.

  18. #18

    Default Re: Tonka Imperiale, and other Guerlain exclusives

    Quote Originally Posted by nsamadi View Post
    I've tried the Keiko. It's nice, smoother and more sheer. It has that cloud projection. It's worth investigating. Though it's missing that sweet, thick, heavy, syrup gourmand feel that you might be looking for.
    Just ordered samples of that from luckyscent, plus samples of PdN fragrances. So excited

    off-topic but I had to buy Duro, blind, but who can resist a fragrance called "hard-on"?

  19. #19

    Default Re: Tonka Imperiale, and other Guerlain exclusives

    LOL@ "hard-on"! GASP! Blind bought Duro! Double GASP! I really hope you like...I...do...not...

    Have you tried Angel in extrait? Yes it's very similar to the EDP, but it's also creamier and has less emphasis on patchouli and I have been complimented every single time I wear it. It's also not as harsh as the EDP, and really blends in with your skin.

  20. #20

    Default Re: Tonka Imperiale, and other Guerlain exclusives

    I wear Gourmand Coquin and get a lot of compliments on it (from both girls and guys.) While it could be a bit femme, it doesn't scream girlie like some flowerbomb. Its actually quite distinguished. I dont think its for every guy - but if you've got the confidence and you like things a little sweet, go for it. To me, it smells like the most expensive and delicious chocolate ever. I've layered it with both SdV and Musc Ravageur - for a chocolate and vanilla mix but I think its better on its own. I had some issues with longevity with it at first - but what I've found is that if I put it on right after showering when my skin is just dried - I get much better longevity than if I hadn't recently showered.

    Do check out Iris Ganache - but let it settle for a few minutes. The first whiff isn't that great - but after 4-5 minutes it grows in loveliness.

    I did a gig in Vegas and stopped in the Guerlain Boutique on a whim. Their SA's are amazing and I have kept in contact in with the fabulous Chuck. I told him that I loved L'instant Extreme and that I read Basenotes and was wondering what Guerlinade was. He gave me a full lesson and had me test a lot of the stock. I've ended up purchasing both Arsene Lupins, SdV, Iris Ganache, and Gourmand Coquin. I am on the fence about Tonka Imperiale - I love it but after buying so many Guerlain FBs - I've decided to wait and experiment with another house (Serge Lutens) for a little while.

    The Exclusives are exclusive - the Guerlain SAs at department stores know nothing about them. If you want to explore them - make a trip to a city with a boutique. I think its best to go to the sources and build a relationship with a good SA. Vegas seems to be full of good ones - the Tom Ford SA's at the Las Vegas Neiman Marcus are quite special also. The Barney's has a nice Serge Lutens and Frederic Malle counter as well.

  21. #21

    Default Re: Tonka Imperiale, and other Guerlain exclusives

    I'd suggest Angélique noir too, my favorite from the line (but my gf wears it not me), heavy and anised vanilia.

  22. #22

    Default Re: Tonka Imperiale, and other Guerlain exclusives

    Sorry I wasnt specific.

    Gourmand Coquin is nice and I like it but a little too feminine for me.

    Tonka Imperialle is great but a little too gourmand for me. Would have been nice with a soft woody note or perhaps a little amber.
    Last edited by hedonist222; 17th January 2011 at 01:42 PM.

  23. #23

    Default Re: Tonka Imperiale, and other Guerlain exclusives

    I dont know whether you're exclusively looking for Guerlains, otherwise I want to recommend Bois d'Argent by Dior. Soft, creamy, almondy take on vanilla with a nice ambery base.
    Smellin good

  24. #24

    Default Re: Tonka Imperiale, and other Guerlain exclusives

    Scent: Duro is fantastic I'm quite sure. I have not tried Angel extrait, it's too expensive to buy blind and I couldn't find it anywhere to test, but I'll look around.

    djorn91: I think I'll get Gourmand Coquin after your reply. I wish I could visit a guerlain boutique, but for now I'll have to stick to Saks fifth avenue. I'll give Iris Glanche another go. Though thanks for the detailed reply, I'm pretty sure I'll get Gourmand Coquin after reading that

    Mon-Petit: Angelique Noire sounds pretty good, I really should try it. You don't wear it because it's feminine or just because your gf won't let you?

    CorruptedSanity: I don't find Tonka Imperiale Gourmandy at all. It smells more like a sweet skin scent. Sort of like being in a library with old books, combined with some booze for the sweetness, and hints of leather and tobacco. It's very sweet but not gourmandy. I recommend reading Mr Guerlain's review on it. Too bad it simply doesn't last.

    Timaru: I'm not just looking for guerlains, but they seem to be the closest thing to what I Want. Bois d'Argent is discontinued? I got excited when I Read it's hypnotic poison without the sticky notes which is awesome, But some claimed it's quite fleeting, and for someone with a skin that eats fragrance, I need fragrances that are strong. I'll give it a try if I can find it, it's going for $150 on ebay.

  25. #25

    Default Re: Tonka Imperiale, and other Guerlain exclusives

    Quote Originally Posted by Ekove View Post
    I like Tonka Imperiale the most, but it fades in 1 hour.
    I suspect olfactory fatigue. I get 14 hours+ longevity out of Tonka Impériale (2 sprays only), as much as I get from Mitsouko extrait (parfum). I never apply TI on the chest or neck (elbows and sides only).

  26. #26

    Default Re: Tonka Imperiale, and other Guerlain exclusives

    Have you heard about Boisé Torride?

  27. #27

    Default Re: Tonka Imperiale, and other Guerlain exclusives

    No I haven't heard of Boise Torride,

    and I feel you're right about Tonka Imperiale, I can smell it once every two hours or so. I can't have two sniffs of it in a row. I'm sure I'm walking in clouds of it, but honest I have a difficulty buying a fragrance that could only be briefly experienced once every few hours. I never had a similar experience with any other fragrance, it's like my nose instantly becomes oblivious to it's existence after it detects.

  28. #28

    Default Re: Tonka Imperiale, and other Guerlain exclusives

    Ekove: I really hope you will be pleasantly surprised by Duro. As for Angel extrait, I purchased it for very cheap online; around 70% off! I would never purchase it at retail lol

  29. #29
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    Default Re: Tonka Imperiale, and other Guerlain exclusives

    I think many people get olfactory fatigue from tonka prominent scents - I would say if you like Tonka Imperiale try applying it lighter, or in spots away from your neck/nose.

    Have you tried Shalimar Ode de la Vanille, the new one?
    "One day I will find the right words, and they will be simple"

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  30. #30

    Default Re: Tonka Imperiale, and other Guerlain exclusives

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    I think many people get olfactory fatigue from tonka prominent scents - I would say if you like Tonka Imperiale try applying it lighter, or in spots away from your neck/nose.

    Have you tried Shalimar Ode de la Vanille, the new one?
    I tried Ode de la Vanille. It was nice but incredibly fleeting.

    I'll gave tonka imperiale a try on my arms, does it project well?

  31. #31

    Default Re: Tonka Imperiale, and other Guerlain exclusives

    I remember having to spray on more than usual to be able to "float in it". The more the better

  32. #32

    Default Re: Tonka Imperiale, and other Guerlain exclusives

    Mon-Petit: Angelique Noire sounds pretty good, I really should try it. You don't wear it because it's feminine or just because your gf won't let you?
    Not beacause it's too feminine but i have associated this scent to her that's all :-) I could wear it without problem but it's "traditionnaly" more feminine. And as a smeller you can trust me, the sillage is awesome and persists all the day.
    And try Cuir béluga, don't take care about the name it's all about sweet and vanilia too.

  33. #33

    Default Re: Tonka Imperiale, and other Guerlain exclusives

    Another scent you should try is Amouage Reflection Man - it's a very "cloud like" scent that has a fair dose of coumarin (some read as vanilla) and a nice balance of bitter and sweet elements. It's quite floral but no one flower stands out, and thus is more of an abstract floral. The orris and coumarin + creamy sandalwood combine to create a vanilla like effect. It has good projection and outstanding longevity. It seems like most who like Tonka Imperiale like Reflection and vice versa. It's worth a sniff
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  34. #34

    Default Re: Tonka Imperiale, and other Guerlain exclusives

    Quote Originally Posted by SculptureOfSoul View Post
    Another scent you should try is Amouage Reflection Man - it's a very "cloud like" scent that has a fair dose of coumarin (some read as vanilla) and a nice balance of bitter and sweet elements. It's quite floral but no one flower stands out, and thus is more of an abstract floral. The orris and coumarin + creamy sandalwood combine to create a vanilla like effect. It has good projection and outstanding longevity. It seems like most who like Tonka Imperiale like Reflection and vice versa. It's worth a sniff
    I remember liking reflection, but something about it made me feel it'd give some people a headache. I'll give it another go, I know it's a fantastic amouage that is very wearable.

  35. #35

    Default Re: Tonka Imperiale, and other Guerlain exclusives

    I'm not that impressed with Tonka Imperiale. It opens very nice and is linear, as other posters say. But a few hours in and when the fragrance fades a little bit, it just reminds me of cocoa butter + spices-- pleasant, but not special at this price tag.

  36. #36

    Default Re: Tonka Imperiale, and other Guerlain exclusives

    Quote Originally Posted by badr View Post
    I'm not that impressed with Tonka Imperiale. It opens very nice and is linear, as other posters say. But a few hours in and when the fragrance fades a little bit, it just reminds me of cocoa butter + spices-- pleasant, but not special at this price tag.
    It is, but I can't find something similar and cheaper. I'm surprised that there are not any affordable almond/tonka fragrances out there save for hypnotic poison. There are quite a few cocoa/almond sprays in pharmacies and such, but they're disgustingly synthetic.

  37. #37

    Default Re: Tonka Imperiale, and other Guerlain exclusives

    Quote Originally Posted by Ekove View Post
    It is, but I can't find something similar and cheaper. I'm surprised that there are not any affordable almond/tonka fragrances out there save for hypnotic poison. There are quite a few cocoa/almond sprays in pharmacies and such, but they're disgustingly synthetic.
    I don't know why I didn't think of this before, but when I first tried Tonka Imperiale, I was stunned by the initial similarity to Back to Black. Even my friend who loves BtB commented how the sillage was very similar. BtB has more of a honeyed, thick consistency compared to TI's more airy, aromatic sweetness. BtB is also more potent than TI and costs significantly less if you consider the 30ml refills.

  38. #38

    Default Re: Tonka Imperiale, and other Guerlain exclusives

    Quote Originally Posted by Ekove View Post
    I'm surprised that there are not any affordable almond/tonka fragrances out there save for hypnotic poison. There are quite a few cocoa/almond sprays in pharmacies and such, but they're disgustingly synthetic.
    Does that include Roger & Gallet Amande Persane?

    http://www.roger-gallet.com/gamme_amande_def.php

    Can't find it on the English pages of their website so I am not sure whether it is available outside France.

  39. #39

    Default Re: Tonka Imperiale, and other Guerlain exclusives

    I absolutly don't see any similarity between TI and BtB. Sure they're both sweet with a hint of tobacco but that's it. I'll give it another try.

    And I have not tried Amande Persane, but that logo seems familiar, I'll look around for it.

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