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  1. #1

    Default A few questions regarding Serge Noire

    I remember the first time I tried SN, I was stunned because it captured the exact smell of the cloves we use here in the Middle East to flavor our traditional coffee. I mean it! I remember it distinctly because the day before trying SN, I picked up a transparent jar from my aunt's cabinet, opening it and then getting repulsed from the intense, hot, stomach-churning aroma of CLOVES! I don't really understand the repulsion towards cloves because a few of my favorite scents contain huge accords of cloves. I really didn't want to smell that intense, clovey smell ever again...so you can understand why I gagged and ran immediately to scrub SN after sniffing it the first time. In all honesty, this is probably the only Lutens I didn't give a chance to even dry down. Most of my Lutens started out as scrubbers but then turned to instant love probably on the fourth or fifth try. But with SN, I think my limit was ten minutes then to the sink it was.
    So yesterday night after finding a sample of SN that was almost empty, I decided to spritz what was left on a piece of tissue then leaves it dry down overnight to see if anything magical happens. Well, it kinda did. What I detected in the morning was an ashy, slightly clovey sandalwood. I may be interpreting it wrong as I don't have anymore to sample, but I have a few questions to ask fellow lovers of SN. Do the cloves ever leave? Does it evolve into distinct stages on your skin? How big a role does sandalwood play? Does it differ if applying on skin or fabric?
    If I do get to eventually love SN, I'll probably be the biggest hypocrite on BN

  2. #2
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    Default Re: A few questions regarding Serge Noire

    Perhaps the first time you over applied it, and going a little lighter on the trigger this second time gave you a different perspective?

    I smell cloves in SN, but I do not think of it as a clove-prominent scent (like, say, L' Eau by Diptyque and Comme des Garcons EdP are). I enjoy the clove, and the way that it intermingles with the smoke, incense and burning-accord-that-sort-of-smell-like-burning-hair-and-spices-at-the-same-time.

    SN does evolve on my skin. Spicy, then smoky, a bit sweet, then incense-y. I think it is a highly complex scent and it's one of the reasons it's my favorite.

    I do not distinctly smell sandalwood, at all, in SN. I'm sure it's somewhere there, in the mix - but I can't pinpoint it.

    I do not think it smells different on skin vs. fabric, but it sure does last longer when I get it on my clothes. But that's how it is with most fragrances, no?

    And hey - if you end up loving SN after all you won't be a hypocrite. These 180 degree changes on fragrances happens to all of us.
    "The beginning of freedom is the realization that you are not the "thinker." The moment you start watching the thinker, a higher level of consciousness becomes activated. You then begin to realize that there is a vast realm of intelligence beyond thought, that thought is only a tiny aspect of that intelligence. You also realize that all the things that truly matter - beauty, love, creativity, joy, inner peace - arise from beyond the mind.

    You begin to awaken"

    -- Eckhart Tolle

  3. #3

    Default Re: A few questions regarding Serge Noire

    Thank you for your reply Mike. See, I loathe L'Eau but love CDG EdP. I guess it depends on the way cloves are used. I probably did overdo it a bit when first trying SN and thus my gag reflex! Despite my initial disliking of SN, the thing that really intrigued me is the "burning" accord. It really does capture it well. I'll give it a couple more tries and see if it does evolve into the "ashy incense" everyone is talking about. But that sandalwood is haunting me. It truly was a haunting, ashy sandalwood; like a forest of sandalwood trees burned to the ground. God I can't get SN out of my head!

  4. #4
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    Default Re: A few questions regarding Serge Noire

    I must say the note that is the most pivotal to the whole fragrance clicking together IMO, is the cinnamon.

    Next time I wear Serge Noire, I'll concentrate on detecting the sandalwood.
    "The beginning of freedom is the realization that you are not the "thinker." The moment you start watching the thinker, a higher level of consciousness becomes activated. You then begin to realize that there is a vast realm of intelligence beyond thought, that thought is only a tiny aspect of that intelligence. You also realize that all the things that truly matter - beauty, love, creativity, joy, inner peace - arise from beyond the mind.

    You begin to awaken"

    -- Eckhart Tolle

  5. #5

    Default Re: A few questions regarding Serge Noire

    I'll focus on the cinnamon, you on the sandalwood

  6. #6

    Default Re: A few questions regarding Serge Noire

    Serge Noire is nice. It is like... transparent ashiness...

  7. #7

    Default Re: A few questions regarding Serge Noire

    I love SL perfumes but dislike predominantly cinnamon scents.
    A wasted use of "Serge" in naming this perfume IMHO.
    Is SL available in Doha ?

  8. #8

    Default Re: A few questions regarding Serge Noire

    @CS: I don't think SL are available in Doha. Maybe in Paris Gallery; I'll have to check today

  9. #9

    Default Re: A few questions regarding Serge Noire

    I like cloves, especially in pastries and coffee but theres something in Serge Noire is overpowering or influencing the clove scent.

  10. #10

    Default Re: A few questions regarding Serge Noire

    I also initially disliked this one and am now considering a FB. On me it smells of burnt cinnamon and burnt cloves with some cumin. I love that it has no fruit in it whatsoever. I tried it first in hot weather and I think that this is DEFINITELY a winter fragrance.

  11. #11

    Default Re: A few questions regarding Serge Noire

    Serge noire (the serge here is a cloth) is one of my favorite perfume.
    I don't smell it as a proeminent clove note (big clove note is Poivre by Caron for me).
    On my skin it smell like the gunpowder, the remember of a firework..Of course there is a blend of spices including clove, but it's not overpowering. This stuff is amazing i can't even describe it as i have multiples sensations: camphor, ashy wood, gunpowder, sweet spices, transparent incense... I get the camphor and spices at the beginning, then the incense and gunpowder and with the drydown it become more sweet and woody.

    The nearest thing i have smelled is the drydown of Eau d'Italie - Baume du Doge

  12. #12

    Default Re: A few questions regarding Serge Noire

    Thanks for your description Mon-Petit. Next time I Serge Noire, I'll try to pick out those nuances. I have a sample of BdD which I really loved, so I'll go and dig it out!

  13. #13

    Default Re: A few questions regarding Serge Noire

    Serge Noire is strange. It feels like a mix of Arabie and Chergui, without all the syrpy sweetness. To me it does smell like burning cloves, I think the gun powder metaphor is not far off.

    Not very wearable, but very enjoyable, especially if you're having a walk outside at fall or whatever. This is a fragrance you don't buy to please others, but to enjoy yourself. Though it's definitely not as nasty as Arabie. In fact, if you're having a grill outside or going camping it's quite nice. But it's really a spicy, powdery, dry, slightly herby fragrance, nothing like it that I have. It smells like a freshly lit match sometimes.

  14. #14

    Default Re: A few questions regarding Serge Noire

    Ekove: I share your hatred for Arabie. One of the few perfumes that have truly, truly disgusted me. I think the main difference between SN and Arabie, is that even though I was repulsed by SN many times, something in it really intrigued me...and that says gives it potential to be a very personal fragrances.

  15. #15

    Default Re: A few questions regarding Serge Noire

    Arabie smells like qamarudeen lol
    I can imagine people liking it but I did not.

  16. #16

    Default Re: A few questions regarding Serge Noire

    Arabie smells like Qamarudeen? I really don't see that, always thought Douce Amere smelt like Qamardeen. Arabie smells more like spicy soup, with a few drops of honey in it.

    But for what it's worth, I really want to own a bottle of Arabie in my collection. It's a nasty fragrance that's very well executed, compared to the sad attempts of creating something nasty such as Secritions Magnifique, which is just a mess. Arabie does what it does extremely well, it's easy to create something bad, but not that easy to create something bad like you care. But as I said, Serge Noire has a little bit of Arabie in it if you take away the sweetness.

  17. #17

    Default Re: A few questions regarding Serge Noire

    Ekove, almost positive it smells like qamarudeen but will double check when I get a chance. I am sure, to me, it did not smell savory.

  18. #18

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    Default Re: A few questions regarding Serge Noire

    Smells like hot spices and the original (pink) Chapstick.

  19. #19
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    Default Re: A few questions regarding Serge Noire

    I smell no similarities to Arabie, in Serge Noire.
    "The beginning of freedom is the realization that you are not the "thinker." The moment you start watching the thinker, a higher level of consciousness becomes activated. You then begin to realize that there is a vast realm of intelligence beyond thought, that thought is only a tiny aspect of that intelligence. You also realize that all the things that truly matter - beauty, love, creativity, joy, inner peace - arise from beyond the mind.

    You begin to awaken"

    -- Eckhart Tolle

  20. #20

    Default Re: A few questions regarding Serge Noire

    Serge Noir is Feminitè du Bois with a beard.

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