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  1. #1

    Default Huitime Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Gnrale

    Parfumerie Gnrale has launched a new collection, with the title Huitime Art

    http://www.huitiemeartparfums.com/

    I've got samples of the following, and really look forward to trying them.
    Aube Pashmina - basil, rosemary, tomato leaves, geranium, black current leaves, "satinwood"
    Fareb - immortelle "wood", leather, warm sand, ginseng.

    Anyone else tried this new line?
    odysseusm

    "The force that through the green fuse drives the flower // drives my green age..." Dylan Thomas

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    Default Re: Huitime Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Gnrale

    Now THIS looks like a line with potential.
    * * * *

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    Default Re: Huitime Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Gnrale

    Odyssuesum

    Give us a full report when you try your samples.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Huitime Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Gnrale

    Excited to sample this line. Thanks O. : )
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  5. #5

    Default Re: Huitime Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Gnrale (update 1)

    I've tried Aube Pashmina.
    I like this a lot. It has lovely sparkling herbal notes. The image of a glass of champagne with a sprig of rosemary and a basil leaf comes to mind! This is a very refined and chic herbal scent -- it is not as bold and tomato-leafy as Eau de Campagne by Sisley. Basil is the main note, with a cool hint of rosemary. This is a unisex scent, dry and translucent. It would be a superb summer scent, or one to convey the feeling of a summer herb garden in the cool early morning. It wears very well and I find it completely satisfying. The dry-down is herbal with a light touch of wood.
    odysseusm

    "The force that through the green fuse drives the flower // drives my green age..." Dylan Thomas

  6. #6

    Default Re: Huitime Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Gnrale (update 2)

    Tried the second scent, Fareb.
    Listed notes: immortelle wood, leather, warm sand, ginseng
    Detected notes: cedar, cumin, cinnamon bark, coriander

    I'm neutral on this. I usually like woody spicy scents, which this is. However, I find that cumin can overpower other notes unless it is carefully controlled. Essentially this is a dusky cumin scent with some notes of bark and wood. It is dry, which I appreciate. At times, the cumin is tangy and somewhat bitter, suggesting a note like bittersweet chocolate (with no vanilla, thank goodness). The wood seems like cedar pencil shavings. In the very long dry-down, the cumin mellows and gives the other spices and wood more room.
    odysseusm

    "The force that through the green fuse drives the flower // drives my green age..." Dylan Thomas

  7. #7

    Default Re: Huitime Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Gnrale

    Thank you for the news and reviews, OdyM.
    "No sweet perfume ever tortured me more than this." Desert Rose by Sting and Cheb Mami, Album 1999.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Huitime Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Gnrale

    I have all the samples here, and they are as great as i expected. Not something groundbreaking or visionary, but they seem well constructed and not generic.
    My favorite from the brief test i did is Aube Pashimina. It`s a great green leafy fragrance, sort of reminded me of L`Heure Promise of Cartier but with less musk and more complex. I see that we have too sweet fragrances in the collection, Manguier Metisse and Sucre d'Ebene, that i see it would please fans of sugary fragrances. The Manguier Metisse has a sweet fruity aroma, while sucre seems to have something more like roasted sugar i think.
    I was cold with Ambre Cerulen so far, sprayed on the card that comes with the discovery set this one has a base aroma, seems like you`re smelling a base of a good ambered fragrance - it sort of reminded me something between myrrhe ardente and ambre fetiche i think. Naiviris is the most minimalistic one so far, a iris in the direction of Iris silver mist but less synthetic and strange - a domesticated ISM.
    I don`t remember so well of the others, but i want to start wearing my discovery set next week, then i`ll be able to get a better vision of each one.

  9. #9
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    Default

    Thanks for all the news ! This is an exciting new line I will try when I get home .
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/370...o-Profumo-Onda
    For sale. Carnal Flower and Vero Profumo Onda.

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    Default Re: Huitime Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Gnrale

    Yeah. Heard about it last year. There's a local boutique here that stocks up Hutieme Art & gave me a sample of FAREB when I purchased a HdP Nomad kit last year. Excellent composition, high quality stuff. Prices are reasonable too. Looking fwd to sample more from the line this year.

    Edit:
    My manufacturer sampler set arrived in the mail late June. Will post my thoughts on them in a couple of weeks.
    Last edited by Diamondflame; 25th June 2011 at 03:35 PM.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Huitime Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Gnrale

    Interesting philosophy behind these scents. From the website:

    Creations:
    An initial collection of 8 eaux de parfums each showcasing an all-new "plant capture", an original plant-inspired accord or natural organic ingredient.

    Bottle:
    "CERAMICA CYCLOPE"
    A futuristic, white, ceramic-looking Cyclops like a talisman or charm. A symbol signing its silhouette. An eye looking towards the future, a star as a sign of good luck, a compass pointing to a path?

    The Choice:
    Two to three notes (composed accords and/or ingredients) conveyed only by perfume, no olfactory pyramid is given meaning you are free to experience your Own Olfactory Voyage.

  12. #12
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    Default Re: Huitime Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Gnrale

    Well, Ody - between one scent bearing comparison to Eau de Campagne (only less bold!), and another which inadvertently sounds like a woody spicy scent I would love, plus positive responses by rickbr and Diamondflame, I decided to spring for samples as well. There has to be at least one to love in the pack. Plus the bottles are "rad" as we used to say back in the day. Lay them on their side and they look like scarabs, too! Fareb the Scarab? May be just the thing for me.

    I do like the part about centering each fragrance upon a new plant capture. Beyond, the bottles, I smell art.
    * * * *

  13. #13

    Default Re: Huitime Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Gnrale

    Glad this little venture has tickled people's imaginations! Please post further comments! :-)
    odysseusm

    "The force that through the green fuse drives the flower // drives my green age..." Dylan Thomas

  14. #14

    Default Re: Huitime Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Gnrale

    This sounds awesome. Where can I get samples?
    There is a singular joy in the experience of receiving perfume by mail. It is one of life's great little pleasures - one that more should have the pleasure of knowing.

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    Default Re: Huitime Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Gnrale

    Quote Originally Posted by debbborra View Post
    This sounds awesome. Where can I get samples?
    Conveniently, you can order a set of samples directly from the website - here:

    http://uk.huitiemeartparfums.com/eau...p?id_dossier=4

    Not cheap, but for this kind of house, fairly typical (I'm thinking it's along the lines of samples from The Different Company). They sound strong, so getting a decent number of good wears is likely.
    * * * *

  16. #16

    Default Re: Huitime Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Gnrale

    Quote Originally Posted by Redneck Perfumisto View Post
    Conveniently, you can order a set of samples directly from the website - here:

    http://uk.huitiemeartparfums.com/eau...p?id_dossier=4

    Not cheap, but for this kind of house, fairly typical (I'm thinking it's along the lines of samples from The Different Company). They sound strong, so getting a decent number of good wears is likely.
    I have ordered my set of samples from their site too. It`s far from cheap, but it`s more affordable than first in fragrance, where it seems that each sample is more than 5 euros O.o

    Compared to The Different Company, you`re absolutely right, they are more strong. There are two that sound very strong on blotter, the more sweeter ones, manguier metisse and sucre d'ebene. The Amber one doesn`t seem to be faint neither...

  17. #17

    Default Re: Huitime Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Gnrale

    Thank you very much!
    There is a singular joy in the experience of receiving perfume by mail. It is one of life's great little pleasures - one that more should have the pleasure of knowing.

  18. #18
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    Default Re: Huitime Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Gnrale

    I'm going to sniff and wear them during the next week or two, and leave my impressions.

    Paper...

    The first, which I'm smelling right now on paper, is Ambre Crulen. I think it compares very nicely with Opium Pour Homme. Overall, it seems more modern than OPH, and I would definitely prefer this one. Quite strong - just a few speckles on paper created a roaring good aroma. It's definitely one of those genderless ambery orientals - no problem with being "macho" - which I find boring. Not sure whether to call it an ambery oriental or an oriental amber, if you know what I'm saying. There are interesting cooling and contrasting notes - which are somewhat reminiscent but by no means duplicative of those in another fragrance in this class which I love, Oriental Lounge. I thought I got tiny animalic wisps as it dried down. The opening is very enjoyable.

    Skin...

    Just tried it on skin. The opening is somewhat Guerlainish - very classical feminine but any guy can handle it. Outstanding opening. The citrus and the floral aspects definitely balance even better with the amber on my skin. My wife finds it "old-fashioned" and "powdery" - personally, I don't think it's THAT powdery. Nicely complex on skin, with just a touch of some aldehydes, if I'm not mistaken. Much better balanced on skin. WOW. Can't stop sniffing it on my hand. The citrus is hanging in there. Very classy.

    Yes, I much prefer this to Opium PH, which was on my "buy" list. So my discovery pack is 1/1 so far.

    I really should have looked at this house a long time ago. DOH!
    * * * *

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    Default Re: Huitime Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Gnrale

    Well, that didn't last long. My second fragrance sampled is now my new favorite. Ambre Crulen is going to have to find somebody else, because I've fallen pretty hard for Ciel d'Airain.

    I'm a bit of a sucker for this type of fragrance - cool, airy - very pretty. Again, gorgeous opening. It reminds me of Cline Ellena's work, and specifically both Sel de Vtiver and Un Parfum de Charmes et Feuilles. Beautiful aromatic notes but not too sharp - just enough. Cool iris and floral notes that give an image of crystal clarity. Wish the opening two hours lasted forever, but they are heavenly enough. A somewhat less complex but just as lovely heart takes over after that, with wisps of great sharpness revealing themselves from time to time after that. Nicely unisex - it will smell fresh and classy on a guy, and cool and brightly perfumed on a woman.

    Not as good of longevity as the amber, but a very clean and nice finish on skin. I wore it to bed, and there was not much left by morning. The drydown is very nice.

    Ciel d'Airain is now my bottle to beat for the rest of the line. I'm really looking forward to the remainder, because I haven't even gotten to the ones that impressed Rick and Ody.

    Edit Added Later: I can still smell it on my skin after 30 hours. There were still some close whiffs after 12 hours, and decent skin scent after 24. The drydown is truly beautiful - it just holds together perfectly.
    Last edited by Redneck Perfumisto; 18th February 2011 at 04:25 AM. Reason: drydown added
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  20. #20
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    Default Re: Huitime Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Gnrale

    Today I wore Fareb. This is an interesting woody/spicy/incense scent with enough fresh and floral notes to give it a bit of internal contrast - to where I wasn't thinking that it was just another incense masculine. It was an interesting wear, with some outstanding moments, but I have to admit that it comes in second or third behind Ciel d'Airain and maybe Ambre Crulen. Not too strong or light - the volume was just about right for me. Good for fans of dry, slightly peppery incense frags. It had TdH moments, but did not make as much impact. I might grow to love this, but it's just not grabbing me as much as Ciel d'Airain. I'm still quite bonkers for that one.
    * * * *

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    Default Re: Huitime Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Gnrale

    Quote Originally Posted by Redneck Perfumisto View Post
    I might grow to love this, but it's just not grabbing me as much as Ciel d'Airain. I'm still quite bonkers for that one.
    Now you've made me all curious to try Ciel d'Arain. 'Iris' being the magic word!

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    Default Re: Huitime Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Gnrale

    Quote Originally Posted by Diamondflame View Post
    Now you've made me all curious to try Ciel d'Arain. 'Iris' being the magic word!
    Definitely give it a try. I won't lie to you - I wouldn't consider it a real iris frag, even if it has (to my nose) nice iris notes. Still, it's quite awesome, and it has the clean, clear, overall feel of the truer iris fragrances, so I am sure you won't be disappointed. I find it much closer to Sel de Vtiver than to Dior Homme and the like - that's the level of iris we're talking about.
    * * * *

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    Default Re: Huitime Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Gnrale

    My next tested fragrance from the line is very interesting - and that even starts with the name: Naviris. This scent leans more toward a traditional feminine, IMO, but still easily wearable by anybody.

    The opening is complex but very coherent - an interesting mix of aromatic, fruity, lightly spicy, cool, and minty notes. The minty and spicy nature is almost medicinal, but in a very good way.

    For my nose, the fruity notes dominated during the first wear. Naviris, however, is said to contain African red iris (Kigelia africanus - sausage tree). I'm presuming that this is a novel iris-like component. I had certainly never heard of it. There is a strong, flat-textured, "makeup" note, very similar to the iris note in many recent fragrances, which came through once I looked for it. Perhaps this interesting African red iris deserves some more discussion.

    Naviris feels to me like a very modern yet grown-up, post-oakmoss, fruity feminine with both chypre and iris-like aspects. There are pleasant bits of soft musk in the dry down, but the berryish fruity nature never leaves for me. There were never any off-notes during the entire life of the scent. The complexity is sufficient that it doesn't smell exactly the same every time it is worn.

    I like this scent, but not as much as Ciel d'Airain. I'm sure there are many who will love this fragrance, however, so it's worth sampling. Diamondflame, Snafoo, and our other iris-lovers - check it out and tell us what the heck is up with this stuff.
    * * * *

  24. #24

    Default Re: Huitime Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Gnrale

    I was given samples of these by Parfumerie Generale when I ordered directly from them. I must say that they are really complex and require more than one wearing to quite get them. I'm smelling Naiviris now and the topnotes are identifiably iris root prominent but also as Redneck Perfumisto said, medicinal and I would attribute that to some sort of fruity topnote that I can't really pinpoint. It quickly becomes sharper and sharper and becomes a very, very dry wood (zebrawood?) with iris disappearing into a supporting act into the drydown. This is actually the most masculine iris I have ever smelt. I smell some similarities to L'artisan's Iris Pallida but Naiviris is much more complex and not as buttery or rooty. I also smell a dry sandalwood similar to the one in Heure Exquise's drydown. Quite challenging this scent...
    Manguier Metisse is a weird-ass scent! I am instantly reminded of the weirdness of Le Feu d'Issey. It has that same funky rotten fruit, milky, woody thing going on. I am not going to attempt to describe it now...I'm still wrapping my head around it.
    If I remember correctly, Ambre Cerulen dried down to an opoponax base very, very similar to Ligea by Carthusia. I'll have to revisit it.
    I'll review the rest later

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    Default Re: Huitime Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Gnrale

    Quote Originally Posted by scent View Post
    I was given samples of these by Parfumerie Generale when I ordered directly from them. I must say that they are really complex and require more than one wearing to quite get them. I'm smelling Naiviris now and the topnotes are identifiably iris root prominent but also as Redneck Perfumisto said, medicinal and I would attribute that to some sort of fruity topnote that I can't really pinpoint. It quickly becomes sharper and sharper and becomes a very, very dry wood (zebrawood?) with iris disappearing into a supporting act into the drydown. This is actually the most masculine iris I have ever smelt. I smell some similarities to L'artisan's Iris Pallida but Naiviris is much more complex and not as buttery or rooty. I also smell a dry sandalwood similar to the one in Heure Exquise's drydown. Quite challenging this scent...
    Manguier Metisse is a weird-ass scent! I am instantly reminded of the weirdness of Le Feu d'Issey. It has that same funky rotten fruit, milky, woody thing going on. I am not going to attempt to describe it now...I'm still wrapping my head around it.
    If I remember correctly, Ambre Cerulen dried down to an opoponax base very, very similar to Ligea by Carthusia. I'll have to revisit it.
    I'll review the rest later
    Thanks for the great comments!

    Yes, these scents are really complex. The thing about THAT which is most amazing to me is that they manage to stay on message, too. There is enjoyable complexity, but it's not a mishmash - it's an orchestra. Its not a bunch of tuning up - it's music. At least, I would say that for the four I've tested so far.

    And thanks for the really excellent description of Naviris. I was hoping to convey to our iris people just how much they need to sniff this, but I think you've done just that.

    I think any one of these scents would be a discussion-generator if released by itself. The downside of releasing eight at once is that their unique natures are prone to get lost in the shuffle. On the one hand, the discovery pack is an excellent way to find "the one". But it's very tempting to skip quickly through them and not give them each the several wears that are deserved. Had I stopped at a single wear on Ciel d'Airain, I would not have discovered all the things I love about it. I'm that way on Naviris, too. It was really coming alive for me by the end of the second wear - and I think it's what you said - that it's a very masculine iris composition, but not in the same way as other recent iris masculines. That bit of novelty wasn't obvious to me the first time I wore it.

    I tell myself that I need to go through the series twice before committing to a bottle, but I don't think I'm going to be able to hold out that long on Ciel d'Airain. It's just too damn good. I'm sniffing the sample, and resisting the urge to wear it, so that I can try something else.

    Ah, what a terrible fate!
    * * * *

  26. #26

    Default Re: Huitime Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Gnrale

    Red, you're doing an outstanding job on working through the line. Don't leave me in suspense much longer, I'm really interested to get your take on Aube Pashmina.
    odysseusm

    "The force that through the green fuse drives the flower // drives my green age..." Dylan Thomas

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    Default Re: Huitime Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Gnrale

    Quote Originally Posted by odysseusm View Post
    Red, you're doing an outstanding job on working through the line. Don't leave me in suspense much longer, I'm really interested to get your take on Aube Pashmina.
    Well, I haven't picked one for tonight - so I guess you just did!

    EDIT:

    OMG - what an opening! WOW. I'm almost left speechless. That first blast on paper was stunning.

    More to come.....
    Last edited by Redneck Perfumisto; 19th February 2011 at 10:35 PM. Reason: O. M. G.
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  28. #28

    Default Re: Huitime Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Gnrale

    hehe, sounds good so far...
    odysseusm

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    Default Re: Huitime Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Gnrale

    OK, I normally don't even start talking about something at this stage, but I just had to scroll up the thread and remind myself what you thought of this, Ody. I'm glad you love this, too, because if you didn't, I think we'd be in a feud of some kind!

    I think your review really nailed it perfectly - at least from everything I can tell. It's a truly perfect blend of aromatic sharpness and herbal greenery. The tomato leaf is perfect - I love the note but it's so easy to go overboard, and this doesn't.

    My initial thought was that this was the perfect fougre, but calling it a fougre sells it short. There are fougre, straight-up green, aromatic, and faintly soapy notes that just make the feel oscillate between all sorts of great places.

    The balance of everything is really admirable. And I'm still talking paper here - I haven't even gotten this on skin.

    OK - I'm going to cool it before I sound like a complete fool. I'll say more after some real wear. But this is a very impressive scent.
    * * * *

  30. #30

    Default Re: Huitime Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Gnrale

    You are showing admirable analytical restraint. Obviously the honed methodology of a scientist. ;-) I'm much more impulsive. Glad you like it so far.
    odysseusm

    "The force that through the green fuse drives the flower // drives my green age..." Dylan Thomas

  31. #31

    Default Re: Huitime Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Gnrale

    Wearing today Ciel d'Airan. Pretty fragrance, simple, but well done. My impression:

    Ciel d'Airain is a good fruity fragrance. It's not so sweet as some fruity floral fragrances are; instead, it explores fruity in a green and ambery context. The pear note here is amazing, for the first minutes it opens in a fresh pear aroma that reminds the smell of pear juice. The pear doesn't last so long, tough, but the scent fades to a nice olive and fruity heart. The olive here gives a green, leafy aroma that surround the fruits in a clever way. The amber finishes it in a luminous and velvety trail. It's not a strong fragrance, seems better for summer days.

  32. #32
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    Default Re: Huitime Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Gnrale

    Quote Originally Posted by odysseusm View Post
    You are showing admirable analytical restraint. Obviously the honed methodology of a scientist. ;-) I'm much more impulsive. Glad you like it so far.
    LOL

    I am trying to maintain some semblance of scientific detachment. I'm afraid it's not exactly working.

    The drydown was nice on Aube Pashmina - the decline of the tomato leaf was just right - neither disappearing prematurely, nor taking over for a raspy burnout. Just a pleasant exit with a hint of the heart and soft fluffy notes left behind. This will take another wear, for sure. My only quibble is that the somewhat transparent fougrish notes [which I am CRAZY about] are less prominent on my skin, to my disappointment. I really loved them on paper. However, since I'm happy to drop one or more sprays on clothing to obtain a "paper effect", it's not going to be an issue for me. I'll do that on the next wear.

    Your description of it being like a lighter Eau de Campagne is really perfect. It's not the same fragrance by any means, but that really captures what it's all about. People who love and respect that fragrance need to try this one.

    Quote Originally Posted by rickbr View Post
    Wearing today Ciel d'Airan. Pretty fragrance, simple, but well done. My impression:

    Ciel d'Airain is a good fruity fragrance. It's not so sweet as some fruity floral fragrances are; instead, it explores fruity in a green and ambery context. The pear note here is amazing, for the first minutes it opens in a fresh pear aroma that reminds the smell of pear juice. The pear doesn't last so long, tough, but the scent fades to a nice olive and fruity heart. The olive here gives a green, leafy aroma that surround the fruits in a clever way. The amber finishes it in a luminous and velvety trail. It's not a strong fragrance, seems better for summer days.
    Thanks, Rick! I'm very happy that you found that pear note. I wanted to smell it, but I think my nose is much less sensitive than yours, and I didn't know where it was. Now that I know it's at the beginning, I'm going to concentrate my efforts there. And I agree that this could be a really nice summer fragrance. I'm going to try to look for those green and ambery notes, too. I felt there was some similarity in the drydown to Ambre Crulen, but I didn't really trust my nose on that. Now that I know you're getting it, I'll watch for it on the next wear.
    * * * *

  33. #33

    Default Re: Huitime Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Gnrale

    Red, good to see your note. Although in the big world of scents there will always be different reactions, it pleases me that you and I agree on this one. It gives me a good reality check, since I respect your opinion. Cheers!
    odysseusm

    "The force that through the green fuse drives the flower // drives my green age..." Dylan Thomas

  34. #34

    Default Re: Huitime Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Gnrale

    Quote Originally Posted by Redneck Perfumisto View Post

    Thanks, Rick! I'm very happy that you found that pear note. I wanted to smell it, but I think my nose is much less sensitive than yours, and I didn't know where it was. Now that I know it's at the beginning, I'm going to concentrate my efforts there. And I agree that this could be a really nice summer fragrance. I'm going to try to look for those green and ambery notes, too. I felt there was some similarity in the drydown to Ambre Crulen, but I didn't really trust my nose on that. Now that I know you're getting it, I'll watch for it on the next wear.
    Red, the pear last for me the 10 first minutes of the fragrance on skin, then it seems that the fruity smell loose the shape of the pear and get more abstract. I give you as reference of pears Byredo Blanche and Le Labo Ambrette 9. These two have the same pear aroma that Ciel d'Airain, but Ciel has it in a more natural way, more juicy i think, but with a fast longevity. The pear on Blanche and Ambrette is more generic and last more on me. For the green aspect, well, i have a difficult to find a word which describe it well. In the absent of a better word, i think it's green. Have you ever tried Lush Olive Branch Soap? The olive here has the same smell of this soap from lush (there was also the solid fragrance, but i think it's hard to find now). Is this same smell that i get, here mixed with the fruits, and it's a smell that lacks me proper words to describe it
    For the amber, it's not so evident. It's like the amber on Absolute Pour Le Matin, it has a "sunny" aroma that takes a time to be noticed. I also get something slightly leathery on this amber, like the ambers you get at the finish of some leathery fragrances.

  35. #35

    Default Re: Huitime Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Gnrale

    Wearing Naiviris today. From the name, i`d expect something an exotic iris, but this one goes very far from exotic for me. Naiviris smell like clean powdery on me, and seems to be more on the feminine side of unissex i think, altough a man that likes powdery fragrances that tends to go on a childish direction would enjoy it very well. I`m impressed that this one only has two notes, because i get at least five: Iris, Saffron, Fruit Notes, Musk, Woods. I see it this way, like a clean powdery iris fragrances of subtle spicy and fruity notes. This one opens on my skin like some kind of red aoud ultra-light. I see like you take the saffron and red fruit aroma of red aoud and fade it to a 30-40% of intensity, matching with it a clean powdered iris. Seeing it from other side, it also reminds me of the saffron and iris heart of traversee du bosphore, but without the rose, honey and spiced fruity aspects of traversee. I get all the notes at once, first saffron, then iris, then fruity notes, then something like wood and then something like clean musk. After some time, what seems to remain is the powdered iris and the clean musk aspects. I found this one ok, but there are better irises on the market and i wouldn`t buy it since it wouldn`t add anything new on my wardrobe. But if it`s clean powder that you want, this is a good choice.

  36. #36

    Default Re: Huitime Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Gnrale

    These are good notes, rickbr. I wonder if you have further thoughts on Aube Pashmina, since earlier you mentioned liking it. I know that Red and I love green scents so we may be predisposed towards it.
    odysseusm

    "The force that through the green fuse drives the flower // drives my green age..." Dylan Thomas

  37. #37

    Default Re: Huitime Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Gnrale

    Odysseum, i`m planning to wear all my samples in a row, and i was already thinking of aube pashmina as the scent of tomorrow, so i`ll probably have more opinions of it soon. Hope that the greeness that i got on the paper remains on my skin, i`m on a phase of enjoying a lot fragrances with a green edge

  38. #38

    Default Re: Huitime Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Gnrale

    Testing Aube Pashmina today. This one matches perfectly the olfactory that i`m living now, where i`m discovering how i love green and leafy fragrances. It seems that with Aube Pashmina Pierre tried to give the green materials cashmere touch, trying to capture their fresh smell at the beginning of the day. This one gives me that dew green impression, which i have already saw in Cartier Le Heure Promise and Miller Harris Fleurs du Bois. But this one lacks the musky airy touch of Promise and the fresh earthy connations given by orris in Fleurs du Bois. Instead, the focus is very clear on the green aroma of the tomato leafs, rosemary and basil, with a discreet sweet fruity touch provided by cassis. At first you have the green and slightly tomato leaf, then the rosemary and basil fastly joins it and after some time you notice the cassis touch. Like other fragrances on this line, is linear and complex at the same time; the scent remains the same throughout the day, with the complexity happening on the first hour on skin. It`s very comfortable for me, gives me a different fresh aroma, like a green vegetal pulp. Until now, one of my favorites on the line.

  39. #39

    Default Re: Huitime Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Gnrale

    I must add that after trying it on skin, while it does seem to be on the same family of Eau du Campagne, i`d say that it`s different enough to compare it to Eau du Campagne. Eau du Campagne is more grassy and slightly bitter on me, while Aube seems to have more of a fresh, pulp aroma, which strongly reminds me of the aloe aroma. Some species of aloe has in their leaves a fresh pulp that reminds me a lot what i detect on Aube Pashmina. I know that i have already smelled this on another fragrance, but it was a long time ago and i cannot remember which one was right now

  40. #40

    Default Re: Huitime Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Gnrale

    Wearing today FAREB. My impressions:

    Pierre Guillaume was clever in the choice of FAREB. With only two main notes he was able to create a pleasant and complex fragrance. I think that due to the new extraction technique he used he was able to capture one of the beste imortelle aromas that i have already smelled. The imortelle here is as complex and strange as in other compositions where it`s the center. It has that fern, woody, burnt sugar aspects. But they aren`t heavy, they seem to be more airy here, more easier to be appreciated. The scent opens more intense, with a blast of spiciness and something bitter, and then it settles down to a soft sugar-hay impression, with ginger on the background acting like gingerbred for me. The scent also has a very subtle incense aroma that comes mixed in the sweet-ginger and burnt sugar impression. It`s enticing, but not so dramatic that you cannot wear it daily. A really well-balanced frag, one of the best in the line.

  41. #41

    Default Re: Huitime Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Gnrale

    What FAREB made me see in retrospect is that there is imortelle on one of my favorite Lutens frags, Chypre Rouge. I see now that part of the boozy honeyed fruity accord of the CR opening is due to the exotic aspect of imortelle. FAREB seems remotely connected to that opening of Chypre Rouge on me, but without the intense honeyed fruity accord, but having part of the burnt-sugar aspect of it.

  42. #42
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    Default Re: Huitime Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Gnrale

    Just keep those reviews coming, Rick! I'm very much enjoying this, and will re-analyze all my samples with the benefit of your nose helping me. I'm actually hopeful that I will understand imortelle now!
    * * * *

  43. #43

    Default Re: Huitime Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Gnrale

    I've been really busy with work so I don't have time to sample the rest, but thank you guys for making my day with these wonderful descriptions!

  44. #44

    Default Re: Huitime Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Gnrale

    Redneck, i`ll wait ansiouly for your impressions, you seem to have a analytic approach and it`s always important to have more opinions since different noses smell and interpret things in a different way

  45. #45

    Default Re: Huitime Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Gnrale

    What is impressing me is how precise were the pressing releases for this line. I keep testing the fragrances, going to check how they were described at nowsmellthis when the line was launched, and it keeps matching everytime.
    Today I`m testing Vohina. I have the impression that few guys would be comfortable wearing it, since what predominates here is a floral fragrance of subtle fruity nuances. It seems delicate, a spring aroma of fresh flowers slightly honeyed (i suspect that this fragance may atract bees because of the fresh honey fruity aroma). When i tried this on the paper, i found it intensive, with a strange sharp honey aroma that i didn`t like. But on skin Vohina is subtle and makes me think that a mythical creature like a nymph would/should have a scent like this. It`s a glowy, pearly scent that starts with a soft peach aroma. The peach is more floral and seems very delicate. The honey seems to come from inside the peach, as if the peach flowers were blossoming and full of a fresh nectar ready to be picked from bees. The hay aroma is a mistery on this spring innocent fragrance for me. The first two times i wore it i was able to get something more dry and woody, but this time it`s not appearing on my skin. I get more the peach blossom and the lavender honey. I think that there`s something slightly chypre on the background, like the patchouli notes of the modern chypres. But it`s barely there on me. The overall impression is that of a young, innocent and fresh fragrance, but with a kind of classical touch. This one makes me think of the pearly plastic flowers, honey and patchouli of boucheron initial, but it lacks the plastic accord and doesn`t have that social aura that emanates from most of boucheron frags. It`s one of the most subtle fragrances on the bunch, seems to last a little less too.

  46. #46

    Default Re: Huitime Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Gnrale

    Wearing Ambre Ceruleen, Phyto extraction doesn`t add for me nothing on this one - it`s the one that didn`t caught my attention; The smell make me think of what prada l'eau ambree would be if it was done with better materials. It`s something that start in a citrus direction, goes for a moments into a suntan lotion accord, and then settles down into a ambereded powdery accord. The ambar is more evident for a moment, and then you get something sweet, powdery, soapy, in the same vein of l`eau ambree but less soapy and slightly sweet. Seems like a modern version of an old formula, and compared to the others it stands out cause it doesn`t add anything new to the materials used - if you like amber, opoponax and have already tried other fragrances with these notes, you won`t get anything new here.

  47. #47

    Default Re: Huitime Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Gnrale

    Wearing Sucre d'bene today. This one is my favorite kind of gourmand fragrance. It's sweet, but not fluffly. It's more of a dark sweet fragrance, something sweet and sugary, but dark, roasted, in the same vein of Aomassai, but not similar to it. The opening of Sucre is all about dark, roasted sugar. I sprayed it on me and my mom thought that some neighbour was cooking a dessert. When it starts to develop, you really get a hazelnut aroma, but less nutty. I 'd swear it has hazelnut, was surprised to see that it's hammamelis emulating it. After some hours the scent goes on a more quite aroma , slightly vanillic and incensed, wasn't surprised to it was benzoin on it. It recommend it to somehone that wants a gourmand fragrance in a more dark style.

  48. #48

    Default Re: Huitime Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Gnrale

    Manguier Metisse is the last Huitieme Art fragrance that i test. After trying all them, you see that there are some aspects that they all share: most of the olfactive changes takes part in the first moments, the phyto extracts appear mostly on the topnotes and they fade to a heart-base note that has some edge in common with the topnote. The line seems also to favor the explore of fruity themes, trying to bring something new to the fruity floral genre. Manguier Metisse is one that fits in all those aspects. It's an exotic fruity floral fragrance, that will probably be more worn by women than men. It's a sweet, ripe, exotic fruity fragrance, where the fruit and flower aspects makes you think of exotic tropical places. The phyto extraction captures a ripe, sugared mango note, which is delicious while it last. Once the mango fades, the tropical theme takes place with a high-quality frangipani note, supported by creamy-airy sort of musk base. The frangipani and musk is what last on skin the rest of the evolution; the mango lasts the first hour only. It's a fragrance easily to be understood, as most of the line. The perfumer favors the simplicity to show the new extracts, and you have to be aware that it's what you get. On me, longevity and sillage were acceptable, and i prefer this way, so i can have the pleasure of wearing them at work if i want whitout bothering anyone.

  49. #49

    Default Re: Huitime Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Gnrale

    If Would rank them from the ones that i liked more to the ones that i liked less, it'd bed

    1) Aube Pashmina
    2) Fareb
    3) Sucre d'Ebene
    4) Ciel d'Airain
    5) Manguier Metisse
    6) Naiviris
    7) Vohina
    8) Ambre Ceruleen

  50. #50

    Default Re: Huitime Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Gnrale

    I liked four of these beautiful scents. But when I like something, it doesn't mean I'll wear it myself (I might like them in a lady instead, like Vohina.)

    1.) Sucre d'Ebene; The one I would love to wear. Nothing else really smells like this, sweet but not ridiculous, much less common!
    2.) Fareb: SUPER HOT Ginger! But I find it too "masculine," although so beautifully done at the same time. A guy that likes "masculine" scents have much to love in this one, IMHO, and it seems to be pretty strong as well.
    3.) Mango Metisse (I wouldn't wear it-smells really yummy to me.)
    4.) Vohina (I wouldn't wear it-soft and nice, very "feminine" in nature)

    I liked the others as well, but just not as much as those 4. The amber was beautiful, but amber. They deserve your sniffing!

  51. #51
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    Default Re: Huitime Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Gnrale

    Wow - great reviews, Rick! I need to get back to the samples and continue on. Based on what you say, I'm really looking forward to Sucre d'Ebene - I think I'm going to like it. starace likes it, too. I've enjoyed wearing Ciel d'Airain - that's a nice one for me.

    Overall, this line seems really high quality, and worthy of the name 8th Art. I think my only problem will be picking something to go first....
    * * * *

  52. #52

    Default Re: Huitime Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Gnrale

    Just got my sample set by post about a while ago ago, can't wait to try Sucre d'Ebene in particular as it seems to be my type of scent. odysseusm, your reviews are a pleasure to read!

  53. #53
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    Default Re: Huitime Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Gnrale

    Looking forward to trying some of these.

  54. #54

    Default Re: Huitime Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Gnrale

    Luckyscent is selling now the line, and they have a sample pack for june containing all the huitieme. Considering this trend of simplistic executions that seems to be affecting from commercial to niche, i`d say that the huitime collection is one of the most concise ones and worthy to be tried. My only complaint with this styke is that even when executed with quality it lacks a solid identity. It`s easy to sell. but i have an impression that it`s a style that seldomly create timeless fragrances

  55. #55

    Default Re: Huitime Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Gnrale

    Quote Originally Posted by les*lucioles View Post
    Just got my sample set by post about a while ago ago, can't wait to try Sucre d'Ebene in particular as it seems to be my type of scent. odysseusm, your reviews are a pleasure to read!
    Thank you so much for the kind words. I'm really pleased that this thread has generated excellent discussion. We all benefit! cheers.
    odysseusm

    "The force that through the green fuse drives the flower // drives my green age..." Dylan Thomas

  56. #56

    Default Re: Huitime Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Gnrale

    Well, thanks to this wonderful thread, I have added Naiviris to my sample purchase today. Looking forward to sniffing it.

  57. #57

    Default Re: Huitime Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Gnrale

    The Perfume Shoppe is selling them in Canada now too. (http://www.theperfumeshoppe.com/Huit...rfums-s/70.htm)

    I'm tempted to order the samples from the manufacturer but there's this blasted postal strike.... interesting to read your impressions in the meantime.

  58. #58

    Default Re: Huitime Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Gnrale

    Got my Sucre today. Very, very sweet and sugary, I can see gourmand lovers go crazy for this one.
    My top 16:

    1. Joop! - Homme 2. Puredistance - M
    3. Tom Ford - Tobacco vanille 4. Tom Ford - Neroli portofino
    5. Tauer - L'air de desert marocaine 6. Armani Priv - Ambre orient
    7. Bond - Harrod's oud 8. Amouage - Jubilation XXV
    9. Parf. Brckner - Aoud 1 10. Clive Christian - X
    11.Xerjoff - Regio 12. Lush - Breath of God
    13. M.Micaleff - Art collec. 102 14. Armani Priv - Figuier eden
    15. Nasomatto - Pardon 16. Heeley - Oranges and lemons ...

  59. #59

    Default Re: Huitime Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Gnrale

    I am wondering why Sucre d'Ebene isn't the newest hype among the gourmand lovers.
    My top 16:

    1. Joop! - Homme 2. Puredistance - M
    3. Tom Ford - Tobacco vanille 4. Tom Ford - Neroli portofino
    5. Tauer - L'air de desert marocaine 6. Armani Priv - Ambre orient
    7. Bond - Harrod's oud 8. Amouage - Jubilation XXV
    9. Parf. Brckner - Aoud 1 10. Clive Christian - X
    11.Xerjoff - Regio 12. Lush - Breath of God
    13. M.Micaleff - Art collec. 102 14. Armani Priv - Figuier eden
    15. Nasomatto - Pardon 16. Heeley - Oranges and lemons ...

  60. #60

    Default Re: Huitime Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Gnrale

    Quote Originally Posted by MrAndySais View Post
    I am wondering why Sucre d'Ebene isn't the newest hype among the gourmand lovers.
    To be honest, the line itself wasn't that hyped either, which is a shame because of the interesting extracting techniques Pierre Guillaume has used - everything smells so tasty! My only problem is that these beautiful phyto-something notes bloom so quickly and fade away too soon. Oh, and I wouldn't want to own any of these non-descript white bottles either, I mean compared to PG lovely bottles...just no

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