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  1. #61

    Default Re: Huitième Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Générale

    A concept shared by all of the current fragrances in the Huitieme Art line is that the ingredients harmonize instead of developing along the conventional pyramid. Thus, some may consider them linear, but this is not necessarily a bad thing. In many of the fragrances, the interplay between the ingredients is what made them interesting - a different ingredient could dominate depending on whether I sniffed my wrist close up or detected the sillage from farther away.

    Please note that I prefer perfumes closer to the skin, so when I say something has good sillage, I generally mean it can be smelled a foot or two away - not across the room.

    Sucre d'Ebene - Suffuses the skin with the warm, gently burnt sweetness of brown sugar. The sweetness is not excessive; it is kept in check by the other ingredients, making this a grown-up gourmand that is worth being noticed by gourmand skeptics. I bet this would be really great in winter. It is simple and not really challenging, so it may disappoint those who prefer complex and challenging perfumes a la Serge Lutens. It projects well and lasts a long time. Unisex, and could be very sexy to the object of your attractions if layered with something musky. Decant-worthy for me.

    Aube Pashmina - a very green opening (tomato leaves are distinctly noticeable) quickly reveals a beautiful, shimmering, clean and light soprano white floral. The green and the florals are balanced, neither giving way to the other. It does not develop on a pyramid structure in the typical sense, but the equal dance between the green and the florals keeps it compelling enough for the nose and the mind to keep returning to see what's going on. Sillage is minimal and, unfortunately, the lifetime is short. What drydown there is becomes a pleasant, fresh skin scent. This unisex perfume could be appreciated by women and by men who are not afraid of florals. I'm learning that I like white florals if they're clean and greenish - I would definitely seek out a decant of this one.

    Manguier Metisse - Take me away to the tropics! A grown-up fruity floral that is just full of island deliciousness, featuring mango and frangipani. This one would probably be more appreciated by women. Great sillage. I would love a decant of this one, maybe even a full bottle!

    Ciel d'Airain - A very delicate, beautiful fresh pear fragrance that opens with green figginess. Not sweet, just fresh and natural smelling. This would be nice for either gender. Dabbed from a sample, the projection is subtle and longevity is low to moderate. It doesn't make a huge statement but is just very nice. I'd like to try this one again, probably with a spray sample to see if I could get more presence and longevity. I did try this a second time and thought it was very pleasant, but it did not grab me emotionally.

    Fareb - the immortelle note is a big stop sign for me, and it was present immediately in the paper test, so I did not try this one on skin.

    Vohina - warm, meditative. The listed notes are peach blossom, lavender honey, and hay. It is not as floral or as sweet as this makes it sound - probably because of the hay. It is a gorgeous scent, reminiscent of being in a field in balmy weather, but it did not move me emotionally enough to imagine myself wearing it again. I imagine that this would be irresistible on a young man, somewhat shy and full of unrequited longing, who spends a lot of time sitting outdoors (perhaps in the quad of his university), reading literary novels. Reasonable longevity and sillage. I'd like to give this sample another chance to see if I might like it better in a different mood.

    Ambre Ceruleen - this one did not intrigue me - it came across as a run-of-the-mill amber. May be more appreciated in cooler weather.

    Naiviris - I thought I would really like this one due to the presence of Iris, but it did not grab me. I don't really have anything positive or negative to say about it at this point.

  2. #62
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    Default Re: Huitième Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Générale

    I have just samples the line thanks to the kindness of the BN friend. Here's my impressions from the LS dab samples:

    Ambre Ceruleen - easy to love. It's a nice amber fragrance, which would be in good company among my other amber samples. I liked it a lot, and I can see wearing it a lot. I'm glad I didn't look at the descriptions or notes before smelling because I could have been disappointed. I love me some good verbena, and this is not it even though verbena is supposed to be the center of the fragrance (since it was the essence extracted for this perfume). But I sniffed unread, and I am rewarded. Like, definitely.

    Aube Pashmina - great one! This is the one I'd like in a bigger decant to experience this fragrance in a spray. It's green and bright, I got an impression of bay leaf and citrus, well blended and original. Another great hit.

    Ciel d'Airain - left me cold. I did not smell a real pear on a tree, as reviews promised. Instead, I think Matildaben is right on with the green fig. Green and lightly woody. My husband would like it, but it is too similar to other green fig fragrances he likes. I will probably forget this one pretty soon.

    Fareb - the one that left me surprised and wanting more in Winter. It's a cumin woody bomb, a gigantic wooden box of cumin coming to Italy from the Spice root. I cannot say I like it, it is too realistic cumin to be something that is easy to like for me. But I am very curious about trying it in Winter because this perfume will warm you up!

    Manguier Metisse - definitely mango, but my skin turned it into a dry sweetened mango. Very realistic. No frangipani and florals for me in this one. Mango and sugar.

    Naiviris - this is the only one from the pack that I actually did not like. I found it somewhat woody and somewhat... may I say watery and diluted? Let's just say it was not my style or did not work with my skin.

    Sucre d'Ebene - dark roasted sugar in a wooden box. I am a gourmand lover yet I find it too sweet. Just like in regular desserts it makes a difference for me what makes things sweet. Is it honey? Is it something rich and dark like chocolate? Is it vanilla like in creme brulee? If this is just sugar, I will probably look elsewhere. Same with this one.

    Vohina - this one is closer to the sweets this one likes. Apricot syrup from my childhood, honeyed and golden liquid. I need something else to go with it -- a tart note, a savory note, or maybe some base notes. I'd love some lemon in it. Or some more lavender in that honey.

  3. #63
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    Default Re: Huitième Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Générale

    Quote Originally Posted by Redneck Perfumisto View Post
    Conveniently, you can order a set of samples directly from the website - here:

    http://uk.huitiemeartparfums.com/eau...p?id_dossier=4

    Not cheap, but for this kind of house, fairly typical (I'm thinking it's along the lines of samples from The Different Company). They sound strong, so getting a decent number of good wears is likely.
    Are the samples in atomizers or in regular glass vials?
    "One day I will find the right words, and they will be simple"

    -- Jack Kerouac

  4. #64
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    Default Re: Huitième Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Générale

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    Are the samples in atomizers or in regular glass vials?
    They are some of the nicest atomizers I've ever run into. Not that big, but very slick, rounded jobs with great caps and nice labeling. They come in a nice box, too, with individual dividers. Eight blotters, too.

    I was just thinking about these scents today. In my opinion, these are some of the best new scents of 2011. Definitely worth sampling. I will buy one for sure - probably Ciel d'Airain, but maybe Aube Pashmina.



    Last edited by Redneck Perfumisto; 12th September 2011 at 01:18 AM. Reason: photos added
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  5. #65
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    Default Re: Huitième Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Générale

    Thanks Red.

    I sort of dozed off since these were released (Too. Many. Releases) and I'm finally giving these some attention. They all sound sample worthy, especially the pear one and the mango one...and oh that brown sugar one.

    Honestly there are entire lines I haven't given my attention to, and one of them is Parfumerie Generale - no reason, just haven't really made any progress in sampling them and the line continues to grow. I have a few I've sampled and most of them I really LIKE, so of course this new line piques my interest and I really have a lot of respect for Octavion and so if he's involved with these, then I'm interested too.

    I must say, I'm not that thrilled with those bottles. They look like toothpaste dispensers. Still, I'm not really a 'bottle person' so if I like the way they smell, that's what matters.
    "One day I will find the right words, and they will be simple"

    -- Jack Kerouac

  6. #66
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    Default Re: Huitième Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Générale

    Yes, the bottles are odd, but probably collector's items, down the road.

    When I saw that Octavian was involved, and that this whole 8th art thing was basically getting chained to this line, I got a bit of a lump in my throat. It would sure be a pity for the idea to get saddled with some painfully mediocre niche stuff. Not to worry - these are quite good. In fact, I was really thinking to myself, why isn't this guy making some of the hotter designer releases? Several of the fragrances in the sample box are both mainstream-capable and BN-respectable. If they were on the shelf at Macy's, we would not be debating any of the stuff that's there now.

    You're right about too much to sample. It's getting bloody ridiculous to keep up. And the proportion of stuff that's actually decent or better is pretty shocking. T.M.F.
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  7. #67

    Default Re: Huitième Art, a new venture by Pafumerie Générale

    I don't have your expertise but I tested a lot of niche perfumes range and I must say that Huitieme Art is probably the worst (with Breycourt) niche fragrance line that I could smell.

    Boring.

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