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  1. #1

    Default Discovering Mitsouko current vs. vintage

    I'm by no means an expert for Mitsouko. In the past I had only sniffed a vintage EdC and the current EdT. Both did not seem to match my taste and style. Well, the chance arose and I bought a 30 years old original sample of the extrait. I can see what makes it so special to Mitsouko's fans. It felt like a dark, moist and mossy forest with mushrooms growing everywhere (and I was reminded of the overall feel of the EdC). VERY unique, but too special for my current liking! I then sampled the current EdP last week and really liked it. It was a sunny day and was a perfect match with the occasional waft from my wrist. Yesterday I eventually bought a small refill of the current extrait. It's bright, sunny and feels like springtime - trees in bloom and light-green moss at the entry to a forest in contrast to the dark feel of the vintage extrait.
    One reviewer stated that the notes in the extrait were all present from the beginning and sort of melting together compared to the EdP, which I think is very true. Anyway, I got a sample of the EdP with my purchase of the refill to compare again in the future.

    As a sidenote, I was very surprised to see no oakmoss listed, but instead only tree moss. Why is Guerlain not able to use oakmoss when Caron still manages for their extraits?

    I am very pleased having found access (I have a clear picture of the mood) to the last iconic classic Guerlain for me.
    Last edited by Larimar; 25th January 2011 at 07:36 AM. Reason: a little bit of style, typo, letter missing... duh! :)

  2. #2

    Default Re: Discovering Mitsouko current vs. vintage

    Congratulations on your vintage Mitsouko parfum.
    Why did LVMH remove the oakmoss, because they don't care and just wanted to follow the new rules. All they had to do was put a little sticker on the box saying continues oakmoss. But no they couldn't be bothered. That is the norm for LVMH and all the houses they have bought and run into the ground.
    DONNA

  3. #3
    N_Tesla's Avatar
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    Lightbulb Re: Discovering Mitsouko current vs. vintage

    Larimar; Mitsouko is my eternal love first, last and always in fragrance. She has been adored by millions since 1919 and it is a travesty IMO that the industry based IFRA organization has put her and other great fragrances in harms way due to political nonsense, but my blood pressure is rising, so let's not go there. Fortunately she has survived for those of us she has chosen to grace with her magical scent. Mitsouko is the finest example of her fragrance genre IMO. I have a great passion for fragrance, but my attachment to Mitsouko is more emotional and quite special. I use EDP and extrait, which I find very pleasing. The EDT, I think, was most affected by reformulation so, I stay away from that formulation. You might want to use the Mitsouko body cream as a base on which to spray the fragrance as it enhances the longevity of the wearing experience.
    Last edited by N_Tesla; 25th January 2011 at 08:45 AM.

  4. #4
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    I agree with Donna though I admit that I turn to my new Mitsouko EDP more than I do, to my vintage now . I believe both versions have their own merits.
    Enjoy both versions - the peach of the new is quite gorgeous and I think IMHO that the essence of Mitsouko remains intact .
    Saying that, nothing beats some of the vintage extrait I have. I save that for special memories.

    I re tried the new EDT and I'm quite surprised that it's not as terrible as I remember it to be. Either it was re - reformulated or I'm just used to it now.
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  5. #5

    Default Re: Discovering Mitsouko current vs. vintage

    I have the vintage EDT and love it. I am content with its depth, peachy-mossiness and staying power.
    I think I must start the hunt for the vintage extrait as that is the one that gets more praise.

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Discovering Mitsouko current vs. vintage

    It is a great experience to have known the full Mitsouko range, isn't it? Words can't full relate the ins and outs.
    In a world where 6 million people are added each month, every landscape matters.

  7. #7

    Default Re: Discovering Mitsouko current vs. vintage

    My newest obsessive love...in the mail today. I dare any formulation of Mitsouko to be better than this one!

    My '70s parfum is too mellow; my '80s parfum is not as projecting; my '80s EDT is too transparent. Only this one packs the longevity punch with the mossy peachy spiciness of the parfum with long-drawn woody notes to boot.
    Last edited by domperrier; 25th January 2011 at 02:08 PM.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Discovering Mitsouko current vs. vintage

    With different concentrations highlighting different facets of this great chameleon, I'm not sure I know which one is Mitsouko. It's like several different perfumes.

    I like old and new, and all concentrations, although the EdT from around 2004 smelled quite cheap to me. It was defiled by LVMH long before the EU or IFRA.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Discovering Mitsouko current vs. vintage

    Guerlain still lists oakmoss in a few certain fragrances. The reason they don't do it in Mitsouko, I believe, is that the concentration per ml finished juice is too high to be accepted by IFRA. Guerlain doesn't CHOOSE to take oakmoss out, they are OBLIGED to if they want to be on the European market. Sad yes, but true.

    The new version is lovely too. The treemoss makes it more spiky and spicy. Not bad, really. But some of the depth of the jasmine, some mellowness of the orris, and that magical balmy softness of fruit and moss has been lost. Mitsouko still smells like a mystery, but it's a substantially greener, harder and colder one. More masculine if you like.

    PS: The vintage extrait was never meant to "project" the way the PdT/EdP is. The old extrait develops slowly and meticulously with a focus on the deeper notes, a lingering distilled whisper of underground roots, carnal jasmine and fuzzy peach skin.

  10. #10

    Default Re: Discovering Mitsouko current vs. vintage

    1990s Mitsouko EdT was wonderful, but I think it lost something around ten years ago. I think the EU/IFRA compliant reformulation is better than the version it replaced.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Discovering Mitsouko current vs. vintage

    Thank you all for your feedback and input! I can see what makes the vintage jus so special for you, although it is not really for me (at the moment). To my perception, the vintage and the new extrait are related, but are rather different perfumes in feel and mood.

  12. #12

    Default Re: Discovering Mitsouko current vs. vintage

    Well, with regard to oakmoss...
    What is the rule now? I have heard both versions a) a maximum concentration or b) an offensive molecule to be removed.
    Well, Caron has oakmoss (no tree moss) listed for Tabac Blond and En Avion extrait, but they are probably not that heavy on the oakmoss in general.
    Couldn't Guerlain use the maximum amount of oakmoss and add tree moss or is this technically impossible?

  13. #13

    Default Re: Discovering Mitsouko current vs. vintage

    Treemoss and oakmoss are both heavily restricted. There are also restrictions on the combination of these ingredients, so you can't just take the maximum amount of oakmoss and the maximum amount of treemoss and then add them together.


    Biolandes claims to have a new oakmoss extract that can be used in higher concentrations than standard oakmoss, while remaining within IFRA regulations. I don't know if it smells the same, or if the old Mitsouko could be revived. It seems as if all the old classics have been diminished, not just the chypres.
    Last edited by sean-dt; 26th January 2011 at 04:47 PM.

  14. #14
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    Default Re: Discovering Mitsouko current vs. vintage

    I too, was quite dazzled by just how different Mitsouko smells in its many formulations and from different years of production. I mean, I have always noticed differences between vintage and 'new' Guerlains but with Mitsouko it's just more pronounced.

    The first Mitsouko I ever smelled was 'new' EdT. I instantly loved it. I still can remember the store I tested it in (Neiman's) and the exact counter where I picked up the tester bottle and even the color of the Guerlain counter top (white)...it's so imprinted in my brain. I walked around in a fog for hours, sniffing my arm...saying to myself, 'Oh, this is what everyone's talking about!'

    After that, I smelled 'new' EdP and I liked it even more than the first time. It sort of sealed the deal for me. And it lasted so much longer than the EdT too, without wearing too heavy. The EdP seemed fruitier too, if you will.

    Now mind you, up to this point, I still have not actually bought a full bottle. I was just testing the waters with sampling at department stores.

    So, then, I naturally did what any Guerlain vintage geek does: I bought (blind) a bottle of vintage Mitsouko extrait from the 1960's. Which, of course, smelled INCREDIBLY different from the two fragrances I'd fallen in love with. Not better. Not worse. Different. The extrait smelled like dirt and moss and something in a dark forest that lived in the middle of the rainforest. With, of course, peach - and that wonderful vibrational chypre accord mixed up within all of that. It was a bit scary to wear. It definitely smelled masculine, sort of like Derby with peach, but even tougher and greener. I still have a small amount of this left, and I wear it very sparingly. Maybe I'll wear some tomorrow.

    Then after this, I bought vintage EdT - one of those huge bottles that you never see Guerlain make anymore (I can't remember what they're called). But it looked like this. I'd guess that this bottle is from around the 70's (I bought it without the box)? I'm not sure what I expected it to smell like...I guess if you'd ask me before I smelled it I would have said that I expected it to smell like the 'new' EdT that I fell in love with. But this vintage EdT is very strong. It's much more radiant, and the chypre accord is very bright and mossy. EXTREMELY mossy. You know how some people say chypres smell like mothballs? Well, I understood this, when I smelled vintage Mitsouko EdT, because that's sort of how you might experience this. I have to be careful not to over apply this one, if I do I get a bit of a headache. But when I want to feel like I'm wearing a quilted blanket of moss (rainy days, for instance), only this formulation will do. And I have quite a lot of juice (that bottle is huge) so I should have enough of this to last me a lifetime.

    Then I got vintage Eau de Cologne from the 1960's, in those fluted cylindrical Guerlain bottles with the atomizer built right into the cap. Wow - this one's ALL about the peach. The same Mitsouko you know and love, but so much more peach in this one...without being sweet & fruity. Sort of what a peach-infused Sauvignon Blanc white wine might smell like, if you raised your wine glass to your nose and inhaled. It's more of an EdT in strength and longevity, that if you wanted to you still could splash on. This, layered with the extrait, is achingly beautiful.

    And then more recently, a BN buddy sent me a decant of 'new' EdT - which (as Mr. G points out above) is much more 'cold' and 'spiky' - I mean smelling this side-by-side with a masculine chypre like Numero Uno by Carthusia or Pour Monsieur by Chanel you really wouldn't be able to tell that Mitsouko is a feminine. It smells surprisingly effervescent (yet rough), so it's cool and refreshing and this lends itself nicely to busy Saturday mornings or when I need a pick-me-up.

    I still look forward to owning bottles (or decants) of 'new' extrait and 'new' EdP. And maybe one-of-these-days, I'll be able to try the impossible-to-find Mitsouko Fleur de Lotus.

    Oh and I almost forgot: A kind soul sent me a bar of vintage Mitsouko soap. That, embarrassingly enough, I am afraid to use because it's so rare. Maybe I'll break into it soon...let's see.

    I'd love to try the body lotion / cream. I never have.
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  15. #15

    Default Re: Discovering Mitsouko current vs. vintage

    In addition to the latest bottle of PdT I posted earlier, these comprise the rest of my Mitsouko collection.



    Last night, I discovered that the '70s extrait(2nd from left) layered with the '80s EDT in the middle smells just like the '80s PdT:jungle mossy with a background of dank wet peachiness, yet effervescent enough to project metres from the wearer unlike the parfum that stays close to the skin.


    With no sacrifice in longevity to boot!
    Last edited by domperrier; 28th January 2011 at 05:14 AM.

  16. #16

    Default Re: Discovering Mitsouko current vs. vintage

    Thanks mike, that's a lovely description! I definitely share the different vibes for vintage and current, although I know much less about Mitsouko than you.

  17. #17

    Default Re: Discovering Mitsouko current vs. vintage

    Quote Originally Posted by Larimar View Post
    Thanks mike, that's a lovely description! I definitely share the different vibes for vintage and current, although I know much less about Mitsouko than you.
    +1

    I have a few and it really is interesting seeing the different nuances that come up across the years and the concentrations.

    I haven't tried the new EDT, which actually sounds interesting from what has been said, so I'll fix that.

    My personal favourite from the few I know is probably the 80s PdT - very dark, mossy and quite lush - it's a very open, airy, expansive take on the theme. The other one (that I must grab) is an Extrait I tried over in Macau which is obviously recent but who knows if even a couple of years might make a difference? (I cite the overnight switch from Oakmoss to Treemoss in Attrape Coeur as an example - both were sitting side by side here at the Guerlain counter).

    Whatever - thanks everyone for continuing to contribute more insight and history about this remarkable scent

  18. #18

    Default Re: Discovering Mitsouko current vs. vintage

    With regard to my new extrait refill with treemoss listed only: the online batch code gadgets say August 2009 for mine.

  19. #19

    Default Re: Discovering Mitsouko current vs. vintage

    Thanks for that info - I'm going to do a little homework and just see what is still around pre: that reformulation, I am pretty sure the extrait I tried a year and a half ago pre-dates that.

  20. #20
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    Mike - isn't the vintage EDC of Mitsouko just absolutely heavenly? Lovely descriptions of Mitsouko of all variations!
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/370...o-Profumo-Onda
    For sale. Carnal Flower and Vero Profumo Onda.

  21. #21

    Default Re: Discovering Mitsouko current vs. vintage

    Hail all Mitsouko crusaders!

    I've recently revisited my own writing about the subject of Mitsouko reformulations on my Guerlain site. I'm looking for people knowledgeable about the Mitsouko formulations within the past 30 years or so who'd like to read and comment on it with their own knowledge. Any correction and feedback is very welcome, both on content, form and grammar.

    Here's the link: http://monsieurguerlain2.blogspot.co.../mitsouko.html (scroll down to Reformulation)

    Thanks in advance!

  22. #22

    Default Re: Discovering Mitsouko current vs. vintage

    To be honest, I found the vintage Mitsouko too imposing on my skin. She felt heavy, stuffy and overbearing. The new one feels more fluid, more graceful. Mitsouko has to be the one and only fragrance that works better for me in its new, IFRA castrated version!

  23. #23

    Default Re: Discovering Mitsouko current vs. vintage

    As far as I know treemoss is cheaper than oakmoss, on of the reasons manufacturers use it or add it to the oakmoss.
    I also read that for the very, very, very small percentage of people who show a slight allergic irritation on ''Moss'' it is actually treemoss which causes the irritation, not oakmoss.
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