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  1. #1
    ExtremeK's Avatar
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    Default Need Help Finding a "Dark" Floral for Early Spring

    I need to enlist the help of all you fabulously-knowledgeable BN'ers to help an amber/incense/spice/vanilla lover (and admitted Lutens slut) find a couple of "dark" florals for early spring.

    I don't wear florals very often, so I'm at a bit of a loss. I can, however, tell you some of my likes/dislikes:

    (1) I love jasmine and tuberose (together, separately, whatever). From my wardrobe, florals -- or fragrances with prominent floral notes in them -- that I have tried and like include: A La Nuit, Alien, Amarige, Apres L'Ondee, Badgley Mischka, Black Orchid, Black Orchid Voile de Fleur, Bois de Violette, Carnal Flower, Fleurs d'Oranger, Fleurs de Citronnier, Lys Mediterranee, Sarrasins, Une Fleur de Cassie, Purple Patchouli, and Jour Ensoleille.

    (2) Rose is an epic disaster on me unless the fragrance is blended so well I can't pick it out individually. Rose and honeysuckle both give me raging headaches. I also am mortal enemies with iris (except in L'Air du Desert Marocain, apparently), and I don't care for lavender. I also don't do well with Guerlains as a general rule (HERESY, isn't it? ), with Apres L'Ondee being the exception. Gardenia and carnation are hit and miss on me. Hyacinth is generally good.

    (3) Other florals/prominent floral note frags I've tried and have either not liked at all or not liked enough to finish the sample are: Narcisse Noir, Nuit Noire, Cedre, Coco Mademoiselle, Irisia, Jasmin et Cigarette, Noir de Noir, Nuit de Cellophane, Love in White, Love in Black, Spring Flower, 2000 Fleurs, Jasmin Imperatrice Eugenie, and Jasmal.

    (4) I'm intruiged by some of the offerings from Parfums de Nicolai but haven't had a chance to try any of them yet.

    (5) One more thing -- NO ALDEHYDES.

    Any thoughts? It's not like I'm picky or anything, right? Thanks so much!!

  2. #2
    teardrop's Avatar
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    Default Re: Need Help Finding a "Dark" Floral for Early Spring

    l haven't tried it yet- although l plan to soon- but perhaps Bulgari's Jasmin Noir?
    "What is this secret connection between the soul, and sea, clouds and perfumes? The soul itself appears to be sea, cloud and perfume..." - from Zorba the Greek by Nikos Kazantzakis.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Need Help Finding a "Dark" Floral for Early Spring

    I'm an amber/incense/spice/vanilla lover, too, so I've been on the same quest. The last couple of months I've really been rotating between Guerlain's Nahema, Chanel's No. 5 Sensual Elixir, and Robert Piguet's Visa. I'll sing Visa's praises to the high heavens if even slightly encouraged. I think the modern version is fab, all rich, decomposing pears with enough vanilla and sandalwood in the base to make me smile all day.

    I tink 24, Faubourg is good at this time of year, too, although I'm not sure you could call it "dark". And one perfume I've tried recently that I enjoyed a lot was Winter Woods from Sonoma Scent Studio. It's very woody (obviously!) but it turns engagingly creamy in the drydown. More than worth sampling, IMO.

  4. #4

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    Default Re: Need Help Finding a "Dark" Floral for Early Spring

    You seem to have already picked up most of the perfumes satisfying your requirements.

    I would add the Tubereuse series by Histoires des Parfums. If helychrisium (immortelle) qualifies as a flower, I'd add their 1740 as well, and Sables by Goutal (I'll leave you to decide whether it does).

    And +1 for Visa - as a man, I find it hard to wear, it's too sweet, but it's definitely worth.

    PdN: My favorite floral is Temps d'un fete, green floral, little rose, but not dark at all. Maharani, then, perhaps?

    cacio

  5. #5
    kumquat's Avatar
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    Default Re: Need Help Finding a "Dark" Floral for Early Spring

    You might like Montale-Black Aoud since the Rose is nothing like a rose you are familiar with and it certainly is dark & spicy.

    Maybe Patou 1000 would work for you.

    George Sand by MPG is dark & spicy, too. It has lots of patchouli.

    There are a couple of green ones I love for Spring; Ormonde Jayne Woman. The main note is hemlock & it is somewhat floral but also dark & foresty.

    Then there is E. Lauder-Azuree. That is green with water-lily, highly recommended!
    Last edited by kumquat; 16th February 2011 at 10:07 PM.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Need Help Finding a "Dark" Floral for Early Spring

    I like Black Orchid and Voile de Fleur.
    VdF goes fruity on me.

    Also try Ungaro III, its very masculine but deserves a try.

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Need Help Finding a "Dark" Floral for Early Spring

    JHAG's Citizen Queen, perhaps?
    A Scent Rescuer
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  8. #8
    volley2's Avatar
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    Default Re: Need Help Finding a "Dark" Floral for Early Spring

    Secret de Rose by Parfume de Rosine
    Ambre Nuit by Christian Dior

  9. #9

    Default Re: Need Help Finding a "Dark" Floral for Early Spring

    Quote Originally Posted by knit_at_nite View Post
    JHAG's Citizen Queen, perhaps?
    +1 on this.

    Citizen Queen is a "dark" floral based around rose and leather.
    "No sweet perfume ever tortured me more than this." Desert Rose by Sting and Cheb Mami, Album 1999.

  10. #10

    Default Re: Need Help Finding a "Dark" Floral for Early Spring

    Neil Morris' fantastic Gandhara
    and +1 for 1000 Patou.

  11. #11
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    Default Re: Need Help Finding a "Dark" Floral for Early Spring

    Second Le Temps d'Une Fête, green narcissus, not dark but somewhat dirty/animalic, a glorious spring fragrance;
    and Azurée, which is a gorgeous, herbal leather with jasmine on me and might qualify as dark, although that is not the first word I would choose to describe it.

  12. #12

    Default Re: Need Help Finding a "Dark" Floral for Early Spring

    What about Lumiere Noir from MFK going more darkness around rose than Citizen Queen or Lyric W from Amouage. Going further in the dark floral teritorry I think Maroc pour Elle(Andy Tauer) could have a chance

  13. #13
    ineespenes's Avatar
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    Default Re: Need Help Finding a "Dark" Floral for Early Spring

    I would try Fracas since you enjoy tuberose.

  14. #14
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    Default Re: Need Help Finding a "Dark" Floral for Early Spring

    I tend to think of Obsession as a dark floral with the jasmine and amber blend.

  15. #15
    Master-Classter's Avatar
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    Default Re: Need Help Finding a "Dark" Floral for Early Spring



    ah, you're killin' me here. I was going to recommend some dark roses (Incense Rose) and lavenders (Gris Clair), then Eldo Cigarette & Jasmine... then Guerlain Samsara...

    I got nothing specific but look into L'Artisan, Dyptique, and old Dior's... there might be something in there.
    NEW STUFF FOR SALE - TOM FORD, Guerlain, Acqua Di Parma, Serge Lutens, Byredo, Diptyque, etc. .

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  16. #16
    DeepSilence
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    Default Re: Need Help Finding a "Dark" Floral for Early Spring

    Clinique Aromatics Elixir: It's Chypre Floral, with dominant Tuberose and a bit soapy IMO.

  17. #17
    Weimar27's Avatar
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    Default Re: Need Help Finding a "Dark" Floral for Early Spring

    +2 Fracas

  18. #18
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    Default Re: Need Help Finding a "Dark" Floral for Early Spring

    Quote Originally Posted by Master-Classter View Post
    ah, you're killin' me here.
    Same here! I saw the title and immediately thought Narcisse Noir. We have a little bit in common, ExtremeKF. I don't do well with Guerlain, either (Mitsouko is my exception) and roses are difficult for me, too (though my mind is open.) Fracas might not be your thing since you said no aldehydes. So I second Jasmin Noir and recommend Bath & Body Works Velvet Tuberose and EL Amber Ylang-Ylang.

  19. #19

    Default Re: Need Help Finding a "Dark" Floral for Early Spring

    +1 Jasmin Noir. It is woody and creamy, and extremely easy to wear.

    Please do try The Different Company Jasmin de Nuit. It is a truly dark scent, with a beautiful spicy note in the beginning and soft amber in the end.

    How about L'Artisan Nuit de Tubereuse? I don't like tuberose, in general, but this is intriguing and feels fairly dark and edgy to me (certainly not the white flower in Fracas.)

    I see you don't like roses, but maybe you can check out Jayne Ormonde Ta'if. It is a dark, spiced fragrance, with some fruity notes in the background. It is very complex--definitely not a soliflore.

    Happy sniffing!
    Last edited by catnip_too; 19th February 2011 at 07:22 PM.

  20. #20

    Default Re: Need Help Finding a "Dark" Floral for Early Spring

    may suggest Nasomatto Narcotic Venus Parfum Extrait - tuberose + jasmine in one bottle

  21. #21

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    Default Re: Need Help Finding a "Dark" Floral for Early Spring

    Puredistance Antonia is definitely an early spring scent, although it's not dark. I just bought my wife a bottle because I was so blown away with this masterpiece. A little goes a long way. 25% concentration. You will die and go to heaven. May I suggest a light panty liner when wearing Antonia, you may get over excited.
    Last edited by thebeck; 20th February 2011 at 02:01 PM.

  22. #22
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    Default Re: Need Help Finding a "Dark" Floral for Early Spring

    I'll second black aoud and third jasmin noir

    it's not really dark, but I could easily see you liking guerlain samsara. it doesn't get much talk and appreciation in BN so maybe you haven't tried it, but it's a nice soft and sultry mix of jasmine sandal and vanilla with a slight spicy kick.

    givenchy ange ou demon is a bit sparkly, but you may like that as well.

    dior midnight poison. midnight is rosy, but it's heavily bonded with other bigger players, especially the patchouli.

    also, as a sweet incense spice lover, try costume national's scent and scent intense.

  23. #23
    teardrop's Avatar
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    Default Re: Need Help Finding a "Dark" Floral for Early Spring

    Quote Originally Posted by thebeck View Post
    Puredistance Antonia is definitely an early spring scent, although it's not dark. I just bought my wife a bottle because I was so blown away with this masterpiece. A little goes a long way. 25% concentration. You will die and go to heaven. May I suggest a light panty liner when wearing Antonia, you may get over excited.


    +1 for Samsara! l know you said you don't do so well with the Guerlains, but have you tried this one?
    "What is this secret connection between the soul, and sea, clouds and perfumes? The soul itself appears to be sea, cloud and perfume..." - from Zorba the Greek by Nikos Kazantzakis.

  24. #24
    Hillaire
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    Default Re: Need Help Finding a "Dark" Floral for Early Spring

    I must warn you against Citizen Queen, if you don't like aldehydes, sadly, as it's an aldehyde bomb.

    Samsara was the first scent I thought of, but it has a bit of the aldehydes, to be honest....

    Amoureuse by Delrae is a deep and haunting Jasmin/Tuberose, with a burned wax smell.

    Jasmin Noir is also a good suggestion, though it has always struck me as a potential Samsara flanker... "Samsara Young" or something...

    You might also like Eldo's Jasmin et Cigarette, a queer but sexy and wearable jasmine and tobacco smell.

    Also the original Marc Jacobs, both the women's and the men's. Heady tuberose and cream.

    The Different Company makes an incredible scent called Jasmin de Nuit. It's perfection. But it's pricey.

    And Montale's Jasmine Full is my favorite 'real' jasmine scent of all time. It's wearable and tea-like... just gorgeous. Not so 'dark' however.

    Oh, Odalisque by Nicolai could be your thing; it's a tuberose chypre, and it's pretty raunchy.
    Last edited by Hillaire; 21st February 2011 at 03:24 AM.

  25. #25
    ExtremeK's Avatar
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    Default Re: Need Help Finding a "Dark" Floral for Early Spring

    So, it's a full month later, and I think I've finally finished my research (yes, that's both the lawyer and the "extreme" in me....)

    I want to thank all of you for your great suggestions and patient humor in the face of my pickiness. I did give you fair warning, after all.

    A couple of initial thoughts: I have previously tried Jasmin Noir (enjoyed it but somehow not enough oomph -- I found it nearly transparent), Samsara (nope, can't do that Guerlain, either), and Black Aoud (Ack! The roses! They're KILLING me!). I didn't care for them, but they would all certainly qualify as dark florals.

    Here are the ones I'm going to sample (in no particular order):
    Robert Piguet Visa
    Parfums de Nicolai Les Temps d'Une Fete and Sacrebleu
    TDC Jasmin de Nuit
    Parfumerie Generale Psychotrope, Louanges, and Drama Nuui
    Parfums MDCI Enlevement au Serail
    Serge Lutens Tubereuse Criminelle (how I've not tried this Serge yet is beyond me).

    If a Round 2 is needed, I will add Ormande Jayne Tolu (please let the rose stay in the background!) and Histoires des Parfums 1826 and 1873.

    Thanks again for all of the great suggestions. Even if many of them didn't make my list, I found that they led me to the ones that did.

    And, mel_lou, I actually bought a full bottle of Winter Woods about 3 weeks ago. I love it, too. SO much! Laurie is a genius.
    Last edited by ExtremeK; 20th March 2011 at 01:44 PM. Reason: Adding TC to the list.

  26. #26
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    Default Re: Need Help Finding a "Dark" Floral for Early Spring

    The idea of Nahema is a good one and, of course, I second the Mitsouko suggestion. For dark, dark floral try Tom Fords Black Orchid Voil de Fleur, the fragrance with a half life of twelve hours.

  27. #27

    Default Re: Need Help Finding a "Dark" Floral for Early Spring

    The "dark" floral in my book is Ormonde Jayne Orris Noir.

  28. #28
    ExtremeK's Avatar
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    Default Re: Need Help Finding a "Dark" Floral for Early Spring

    Quote Originally Posted by bonsai View Post
    The "dark" floral in my book is Ormonde Jayne Orris Noir.
    Unfortunately, I simply cannot wear iris unless it stays far in the background, a la L'Air du Desert Marocain and Chergui.


    Quote Originally Posted by N_Tesla View Post
    The idea of Nahema is a good one and, of course, I second the Mitsouko suggestion. For dark, dark floral try Tom Fords Black Orchid Voil de Fleur, the fragrance with a half life of twelve hours.
    Nick, you and I seem to share many great fragrance loves, but I must part ways with you on Mitsouko. I just don't care for it, and, no matter how many times I go back to try again, I just can't wear it. I would have previously chalked that up to my own character flaw, but the lovely BN community has assured me that, despite this gaping hole in my fragrance wardrobe, I'm good enough, I'm strong enough, and, darn it, people like me!

    Nahema has two strikes against it: it's a Guerlain (yes, the entire house is problematic for me -- it must be that "Guerlainade" everyone talks about) and its primary note is rose. The only thing worse on me than iris is rose. Not to mention the blinding headache a prominent rose note gives me.

    With iris and rose out of the running as primary notes and Guerlain also out of the picture, this dark florals quest was more difficult than one (i.e., any reasonably sane person) might have otherwise expected.

    However, Nick, we're back on track with Voile de Fleur -- I own a full bottle of it and LOVE it.

  29. #29

    Default Re: Need Help Finding a "Dark" Floral for Early Spring

    Quote Originally Posted by ExtremeKF View Post
    Unfortunately, I simply cannot wear iris unless it stays far in the background, a la L'Air du Desert Marocain and Chergui.
    Then I have good news for you: Orris Noir, in contrary to its name, is not your typical iris fragrance, I can't even detect the iris in it. Give it a try!

  30. #30
    ExtremeK's Avatar
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    Default Re: Need Help Finding a "Dark" Floral for Early Spring

    So, all of my dark florals samples have arrived, and I've been doing some sniffing, but today is the first full wearing. I chose Parfumerie Generale Psychotrope for the promise of jasmine and leather.

    It started out with a very sharp green note -- not a mossy green, more like a leaf green. And it stayed that way for about 4 hours when a little bit of jasmine made an appearance and gave the green a more watery effect. For something that's just supposed to be a top note, the green note has real staying power.

    Unfortunately, the leather has never, not once, not even a little bit, made an appearance. At least not on me.

    This is more of a light spring floral -- OK in its own right, but not really my thing and not what I was looking for.

  31. #31
    ExtremeK's Avatar
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    Default Re: Need Help Finding a "Dark" Floral for Early Spring

    So, I'm sampling Visa today.

    Let me just give a special shout-out THANK YOU to mel_lou and cacio for recommending Visa. As I said in today's SotD thread, this is SO my thing: I get the dark floral aspect I was searching for but also the spices, leather, woods, and vanilla notes I love so much.

    Again, I'm breaking my own fragrance Bible rules and skipping the decant stage -- I'm buying a FB of it today.

    I just love it. Thanks so much for this recommendation.

    Edit:
    I just now figured out what Visa reminds me so strongly of. At first, I thought it was Angel. But it's not. Visa reminds of nothing so much as Serge Lutens Boxeuses. On me, Visa's drydown is luscious plum, violet, and leather with a bit of spice. Just like Boxeuses. So, until I can make it to Paris for a lovely bell jar of Boxeuses, I've got Visa.
    Last edited by ExtremeK; 31st March 2011 at 05:58 PM.

  32. #32

    Default Re: Need Help Finding a "Dark" Floral for Early Spring

    L'Heure Bleue by Guerlain. It's moody and dark with it's spicey, musty violet/iris accord.

  33. #33
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    Default Re: Need Help Finding a "Dark" Floral for Early Spring

    The Pink Room's new scent Darkly Audacious. If you liked VISA, I think you'll like this one too. Also, Chanel Coco in the edt. It "features" the sandalwood beautifully.
    "Not my cup of mud."
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  34. #34

    Default Re: Need Help Finding a "Dark" Floral for Early Spring

    You might try Byzance by Rochas. It is tuberose and incense. A little soapy. It is not as rich as the preformulation version of the 1980s, but still good. It was my signature scent for a decade. Not too femme either. Makes a good masculine tuberose. Have you tried Chinatown by Bond? It is another oddity for me (I dont like much by Bond no 9) but when I am in the mood for it, nothing fits the bill like Chinatown. It is floral, peachy, incensey in an unusual way with no prominent rose or iris to speak of.

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