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  1. #1

    Default a Modernist scent....

    Which is, in your opinion, the scent epitomizing the concept of "Modernism" in the world of Perfumery?
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  2. #2

    Default Re: a Modernist scent....

    Quote Originally Posted by Francolino View Post
    Which is, in your opinion, the scent epitomizing the concept of "Modernism" in the world of Perfumery?
    Any scent that was produced by any of these companies

    International Flavors and Fragrances (IFF)
    Givaudan
    Firmenich
    Takasago
    Symrise

  3. #3
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    Default Re: a Modernist scent....

    I'd go along with Givaudan & Firmenich
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  4. #4

    Default Re: a Modernist scent....

    guess I could explain myself better...
    I meant the "Modernist" concept as in art, music, architecture...(do you remember Bauhaus...?)..referred to a particular scent,
    not aromachemicals industries....
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  5. #5
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    Default Re: a Modernist scent....

    I'd say iris, particularly Dior Homme.
    Current top 5:
    1. MDCI Chypre Palatin
    2. Puredistance M
    3. Roja Dove Vetiver Extrait
    4. Guerlain Coriolan
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  6. #6

    Default Re: a Modernist scent....

    Quote Originally Posted by Francolino View Post
    guess I could explain myself better...
    I meant the "Modernist" concept as in art, music, architecture...(do you remember Bauhaus...?)..referred to a particular scent,
    not aromachemicals industries....
    Ok -- when I think of the Bauhaus, it reminds me of the very early CDG fragrances, stripped down, angular, functional, but modern with it

  7. #7

    Default Re: a Modernist scent....

    Quote Originally Posted by Kaern View Post
    Ok -- when I think of the Bauhaus, it reminds me of the very early CDG fragrances, stripped down, angular, functional, but modern with it
    Beat me to it. I'd say Comme des Garcons immediately comes to mind for modern fragrances. As for an individual scent, no clue - that's if I'm interpreting the question correctly.
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  8. #8

    Default Re: a Modernist scent....

    CdG and A Lab on Fire
    My current top 10 fragrances :
    1. Amouage Jubilation XXV
    2. A Lab on Fire Almost Transparent Blue
    3. YSL L'Homme Libre
    4. Tauer Perfumes L'Air du Desert Marocain
    5. Rania J. Ambre Loup
    6. Atelier Cologne Cedrat Enivrant
    7. Parfum MDCI Ambre Topkapi
    8. Imaginary Authors Memoirs of a Trespasser
    9. Heeley Sel Marin
    10. by Kilian Back to Black

  9. #9

    Default Re: a Modernist scent....

    was gonna say commes des garcons

  10. #10

    Default Re: a Modernist scent....

    Gucci PH

  11. #11

    Default Re: a Modernist scent....

    Modernism as a cultural/philosophical/literary/art movement is so diverse and also such a long period, I don't think the concept really means much at all anymore.

  12. #12
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    Default Re: a Modernist scent....

    Bvlgari Black
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    Default Re: a Modernist scent....

    To really answer that question requires a great deal of thought, rather than simply giving a facile reply on which niche house is currently producing the flavour of the week as determined by a few select self-described fragheads.

    I think what you're really asking is which house has their finger on the pulse of the fragrance-buying public and is just far enough ahead of them, pushing the industry forward, rather than simply copying the past or cynically marketing to the lowest common denominator of current tastes.

    As Katie Puckrik once wrote, we've seen women's fragrances move in the past century from where women went from behaving like ladies and smelling like like animals to a time where they smell like candied fruit and detergent, pretending they're not animals. With any luck at all that trend is reversing itself.
    Last edited by Scarce; 21st April 2015 at 03:24 PM.

  14. #14

    Default Re: a Modernist scent....

    Dior Homme has the most modern feel out of any designer perfume. Lampblack out of any niche...IMO.
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  15. #15

    Default Re: a Modernist scent....

    Comme des Garcons for me too - probably Black if I had to choose a particular smell

    Narcisso Rodriguez For Him could be in with a shout too . . .
    Last edited by Danksy; 21st April 2015 at 03:41 PM.
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  16. #16
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    Default Re: a Modernist scent....

    I think a modernist scent would be clean / fresh. However, it wouldn't be in the traditional Eau de Cologne mold, since that is not "modern", but more timeless. It would need to be long lasting, since that is also the trend (someday American men will stop calling all male fragrances "cologne", but not anytime soon). It would also be fairly unisex, since that is the modern norm.

    I think these would fit that definition:

    The Different Company - De Bachmakov
    Tom Ford - Grey Vetiver
    Xerjoff - Nio
    Ormonde Jayne - Ormonde Man
    Seasonal favorites:

    1. Creed - Spice & Wood
    2. Creed - Aventus
    3. Tom Ford - Grey Vetiver
    4. Xerjoff - Fars
    5. Dior - Vetiver
    6. Creed - Green Valley
    7. Clive Christian - 1872 for Men
    8. by Kilian - Straight to Heaven
    9. The Different Company - De Bachmakov
    10. Creed - Royal Scottish Lavender

  17. #17

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    Default Re: a Modernist scent....

    CDG comes to mind to me too. But stretching a bit the definition, I think Chanel No 5 went a little bit in the direction, in the sense of going for something abstract, clean, and new. The heart of no 5 though was still quite rich and opulent, not quite modernist.

    cacio

  18. #18

    Default Re: a Modernist scent....

    Reminds me of this TED talk https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4qxo...c&spfreload=10 skip to 7.50 where he gives his view on modernist scents but it serves to watch the whole video.
    Last edited by Alasse; 21st April 2015 at 03:47 PM.
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  19. #19
    Super Member Scarce's Avatar
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    Default Re: a Modernist scent....

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    CDG comes to mind to me too. But stretching a bit the definition, I think Chanel No 5 went a little bit in the direction, in the sense of going for something abstract, clean, and new. The heart of no 5 though was still quite rich and opulent, not quite modernist.

    cacio
    Bears repeating that No 5 was launched in 1921, and is older than Shalimar.

  20. #20
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    Default Re: a Modernist scent....

    I think the thread might be heading in the wrong direction. Francolino doesn't mean 'modern': he means 'Modernist', as in related to the international movement that revolutionized art, architecture and photography in the first half of the 20th century.

    In that context it's hard to draw a clear link. cacio's suggestion of No. 5 is a good one, since it relied on aldehydes for much of its effect. On the other hand, synthetics had been in use since the end of the 19th century, and Jicky is supposedly the first abstract composition (though clearly somewhat romantic in feeling). Perhaps one of the asbtract chypres that began to appear in the 1910s and 1920s? Mitsouko, Tabac Blond, Coty's Chypre. Vol de Nuit, with its reference to aviation, might be another.

  21. #21

    Default Re: a Modernist scent....

    Quote Originally Posted by dougczar View Post
    I think a modernist scent would be clean / fresh. However, it wouldn't be in the traditional Eau de Cologne mold, since that is not "modern", but more timeless. It would need to be long lasting, since that is also the trend (someday American men will stop calling all male fragrances "cologne", but not anytime soon). It would also be fairly unisex, since that is the modern norm.
    Why not the Eau de Cologne? Modern Grapefruit or Cedrat versions are uniquely unisex, the CK One before it was invented, very modernist, very any colour as long as it is red....

  22. #22

    Default Re: a Modernist scent....

    Sartorial
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  23. #23

    Default Re: a Modernist scent....

    Rive Gauche PH- there is something remarkably modern about this fragrance, a kind of modernism that stands out among most designer house choices

  24. #24

    Default Re: a Modernist scent....

    Maybe it's suggested by the name but I do find Piguet's Futur to have a very minimalistic and futuristic vibe to it.

  25. #25

    Default Re: a Modernist scent....

    I would say the best example of this would be the new Frederic Malle, Cologne Indélébile. It is long lasting, smells natural despite its reliance on synthetics, remains clean and fresh while being edgy and interesting. The blend of four musks in the base demonstrates what can be done with modern synthetics. Instead of smelling of pure white musk, which is very clean and somewhat soapy, some of the musks retain a slight tinge of animalic character, which ultimately is hidden (while never becoming completely invisible) by the cleanness of the white musks.

    A brilliant work in my opinion, and one that perfectly captures the modernist aesthetic.

  26. #26
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    Default Re: a Modernist scent....

    If I think about Bauhaus I think about something that was avant-garde and kind of shocking when it came aout. They produced simple groundbreaking objects designs that felt so revolutionary at the time to then become *common objects* in the years…

    in this context, Chanel No.5 is completely sport on in my opinion. Also, Iso E Super, as an ingredient, is pretty modernist.


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  27. #27

    Default Re: a Modernist scent....

    Pardon my juvenile ignorance but each time I read "Modernist" I can't help not thinking of young mods in the first place. And that would probably lead to mention drugstore aftershaves by Brut or Yardley and so forth.
    My current top five:

    Guerlain - Homme Intense
    Angela Ciampagna - Liquo
    Charenton Macerations - Christoper Street
    Dior - Fahrenheit Absolute
    Azzaro - Pour Homme (vintage)

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  28. #28

    Default Re: a Modernist scent....

    Boy, these answers are all over the place.

  29. #29

    Default Re: a Modernist scent....

    Quote Originally Posted by Scarce View Post
    Bears repeating that No 5 was launched in 1921, and is older than Shalimar.
    which makes it perfect as Bauhaus ran from 1919 to 1933, while modernism started in the 1870s

    oh wait, no, Cool Water or One Million.

  30. #30

    Default Re: a Modernist scent....

    very interesting answers, thanx everybody!
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  31. #31

    Default Re: a Modernist scent....

    If I try to follow OP's clarificaton of catching bauhaus type of vibe, my head starts to spin out clean soap like scents like A&VC Pour Homme and Varvatos Artisan Black. Also anything with cold steel or chrome would do for me

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  32. #32
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    Default Re: a Modernist scent....

    Quote Originally Posted by Francolino View Post
    Which is, in your opinion, the scent epitomizing the concept of "Modernism" in the world of Perfumery?
    Very hard to give any answer. First of all, let us not take minimalism for modernism, since modernism exists outside of minimalism (and minimalism outside of modernism). Now with that out of the way, it seems that a host of fragrances would perhaps be called modernist. The fragrance in question is less important; more salient is how the interpretation of it conforms to modernism. Thus, it can, but need not be something using a lot of synthetics or something that is very minimalist.

    Comme des Garcons Incense series may be justified as not being modernist. The explanation is the connection of incense to religious beliefs, practices, religious places of worship- and the disregard of modernism for religion. Extending the argument, one can rule out any fragrance using incense as a note.

    A fragrance like A* Men is modernist. It ignores traditional themes and notions of masculine perfumery and opens up a new direction. Along the same lines, fragrances that mark a significant deviation from history for the first time may be interpreted as being modernists. This would include the first fragrances to use calone or iso e-super.

    Finally, consider the mention of the Bauhaus school. The fragrance that came to mind was Demeter Dirt. Hard to provide a justification why, but harder to argue why not. A particular facet of the Bauhaus philosophy (and modernism) is the importance of functionality, with other aspects being peripheral. If we connect this to perfumery, it is hard to conceive what could (and could not) be considered as a functional fragrance- it is open to debate. However, a more strong (and interesting) argument is that anything other than the fragrance is redundant to a certain degree. Thus ornate bottles and fancy boxes are irrelevant. The box, the bottle (and perhaps even marketing, advertising..) should represent aesthetic and economic minimalism. In view of such considerations, Grey Flannel or perhaps something from Montale may be considered as examples of modernism in fragrances.

    Though I rule out the Incense series, a lot of other creations by Comme des Garcons have many elements of modernism in them. If I had to pick a house, perhaps Comme des Garcons would be it.

    The world of possibilities is seemingly infinite. Just my two cents.
    Last edited by freewheelingvagabond; 22nd April 2015 at 07:35 AM.
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  33. #33

    Default Re: a Modernist scent....

    Modern meaning minimal is hard to peg in perfumery. You can point to something like Escentric as minimal, but perhaps it is more deconstructive and in all events not well loved by those who love perfume. Something like AMen is arguably modern in the sense of mash-up/hip-hop culture. What are examples of classically modernist fragrances? Good question. Good fragrances are complex. So to my mind a modernist scent would be one where the multiple notes are sharply delineated and distinct from each other. I dont know that such delineation is a sought after feature of fragrances but, the more I think about it, striving for delineation would be a fresh stand-out approach to perfumery. If there are excellent examples of this, I would like to know about them.
    Last edited by schnozz; 22nd April 2015 at 12:59 PM.

  34. #34

    Default Re: a Modernist scent....

    To me modernist scents are smell shapes rather than referencing traditional flowers or themes (i.e. orientalism)

    So I would suggest
    Guerlain Jicky, perhaps the first modernist scent
    Vero Profumo Onda, uterly modern to me
    Bulgari Black
    Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist, breaking my own rule about flowers but this smells so abstract and futuristic

  35. #35

    Default Re: a Modernist scent....

    Helmut Lang - Cuiron.

  36. #36
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    Default Re: a Modernist scent....

    Andrea Maack, Craft.

  37. #37

    Default Re: a Modernist scent....

    If we stick with the notion of the modernist school (of thought), which seems to escape many a fellow poster, then I would pose the question to vintage enthusiasts: what was the height of "modern" at the turn of the century, until, say the 1930's? Already established the evident Jicky, No 5, etc.

    Besides these, then? Piguet seems a bit late, Lancôme likewise. Who made perfumes back then, besides apothecaries?

    And, importantly – what did men wear? Beyond lavander barbershop waters...

  38. #38

    Default Re: a Modernist scent....

    How about Lanvin?!

    Arpège, My Sin... What say you?

  39. #39

    Default Re: a Modernist scent....

    I would add Prada Infusion D'Homme - like a detached and abstract concept of a traditional barbershop cologne. Smells classical and futuristic at the same time. Great bottle design as well.

  40. #40

    Default Re: a Modernist scent....

    Quote Originally Posted by noitsnotme View Post
    How about Lanvin?!

    Arpège, My Sin... What say you?
    for bottle design and concept, I'm thinking about M/Mink Byredo
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  41. #41

    Default Re: a Modernist scent....

    Quote Originally Posted by noitsnotme View Post
    If we stick with the notion of the modernist school (of thought), which seems to escape many a fellow poster, then I would pose the question to vintage enthusiasts: what was the height of "modern" at the turn of the century, until, say the 1930's? Already established the evident Jicky, No 5, etc.

    Besides these, then? Piguet seems a bit late, Lancôme likewise. Who made perfumes back then, besides apothecaries?

    And, importantly – what did men wear? Beyond lavander barbershop waters...
    Actually a good way of summarising the modernist school of thought is "form follows function, there is nothing decorative in form". And perfumery is so often most definitely decorative.

    So my candidate for Modernist scent is Molecule 01. It's not decorative since it has just one active ingredient that doesn't really have a smell of its own. What Iso E Super does do in those sort of quantities is act the way pheromones are reported to work. It also seems to sensitise the recipients sense of smell, thereby amplifying the wearers natural smell to above conscious perception level.

  42. #42
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    Default Re: a Modernist scent....

    Quote Originally Posted by andym72 View Post
    Actually a good way of summarising the modernist school of thought is "form follows function, there is nothing decorative in form". And perfumery is so often most definitely decorative.

    So my candidate for Modernist scent is Molecule 01. It's not decorative since it has just one active ingredient that doesn't really have a smell of its own. What Iso E Super does do in those sort of quantities is act the way pheromones are reported to work. It also seems to sensitise the recipients sense of smell, thereby amplifying the wearers natural smell to above conscious perception level.
    Yep!


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  43. #43
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    Default Re: a Modernist scent....

    humiecki graef askew
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  44. #44

    Default Re: a Modernist scent....

    good one
    Quote Originally Posted by Dry_Martini View Post
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  45. #45
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    Default Re: a Modernist scent....

    I think CdG is actually more post-modern or deconstructivist in that they show a sense of appropriation in the line. Also, they put different notes together in new ways, out of context. Another company that does this is Etat Libre d'Orange.

    Modernism, I think of late cubism (Picasso), expressionism (Pollock, Motherwell), Dada (du Champ)...to name a few. I agree that the abstract qualities of No.5 fit this aesthetic.
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  46. #46

    Default Re: a Modernist scent....

    Quote Originally Posted by andym72 View Post
    Actually a good way of summarising the modernist school of thought is "form follows function, there is nothing decorative in form". And perfumery is so often most definitely decorative.

    So my candidate for Modernist scent is Molecule 01. It's not decorative since it has just one active ingredient that doesn't really have a smell of its own. What Iso E Super does do in those sort of quantities is act the way pheromones are reported to work. It also seems to sensitise the recipients sense of smell, thereby amplifying the wearers natural smell to above conscious perception level.
    Either that or folks will get tired of iso-e super and it will be a relatively short-lived trend to use it as a main note. I pray this is the case but with the popularity of frags that feature iso-e it may plague modern perfumery for a long time to come.

    When I think of current "modern" frags I think of many of CdG's frags, especially Steven Jones. Also Bruno Fazzolari (Lampblack) and Charenton Macerations (Christopher Street)... and many more but I don't think this was the OP's intent.

    I have a hard time thinking of fragrances as "Modernist" at all....

  47. #47

    Default Re: a Modernist scent....

    Narcisso Rodriguez For Him
    Eau Sauvage Parfum
    Comme Des Garcons line
    Maybe Demeter line. I don't think people wanted to smell like carrot in the past...
    Maybe Molecules line which promote an idea that others may pick a smell even though you may not smell anything and it does not have to smell like something natural like a flower or a plant or something...

  48. #48

    Default Re: a Modernist scent....

    Quote Originally Posted by aphexacid View Post
    Helmut Lang - Cuiron.
    I agree. It's what I came in to add.

  49. #49
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    Default Re: a Modernist scent....

    Prada Infusion d'Homme, which, I think, contains zero sentimentalism, Bulgari Black, and Bulgari Eau Parfumee au The Vert. Chandler Burr has a great article online about the last one. "Too abstract," said Dior. "Too creative, " said Saint Laurent.
    Last edited by Wheatstraw2; 25th April 2015 at 10:14 PM.

  50. #50

    Default Re: a Modernist scent....

    ... Ah, of course! Artek Standard by CdG, inspired by modernist architecture.

  51. #51
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    Default Re: a Modernist scent....

    Simple: CdG Skai

  52. #52
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    Default Re: a Modernist scent....

    Old Spice.jpg

    Why?
    - Arguably the first masculine oriental, it was quite different from the fougere/chypre masculines when it was released in 1937.
    - Function over form; the bottles were evidently designed to be re-used for other purposes.
    - Simple, affordable, popular.
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