All versions are easily wearable by men. Avoid the modern for no other reason then it's just not Mitsouko. Exactly which formula/concentration of Mitsy is better then which is hard to say and very much personal preference. I prefer EdT from the 60s/70s, and PdT/parfum the 80s but that's just me. Mitsouko is sensitive to poor storage and will turn so you always have to keep that in mind when sourcing vintage bottles. Good luck!