Thread: The Most Influential Fragrance
yes I want to stir some trouble and controversy here by putting this up (not really)
I guess my topic is trying to find the fragrance that lead the way or set the standard or inspired other fragrances
a couple I can list are
got some knowledge spit it out
Some others I can think of:
Paris Hilton's because they instill so much hate in some people.
Jicky and Coty Chypre are both good selections.
Shalimar, which is often seen as the first oriental, is another.
Paco Rabanne PH and Azzarro PH helped inaugurate the powerhouse aromatic fougeres that ruled the roost in men's fragrances for over a decade.
Cool Water has been incredibly influential (if not in a particularly good way).
cK one (re-)mainstreamed the idea of unisex fragrances.
And Mugler's Angel seems to blown open the gates to a huge variety of mainstream gourmand fragrances.
Last edited by PhinClio; 17th March 2009 at 04:28 PM.
Dunhill for Men(1934)
I know this might seem silly
but I think old spice was probably a hero to alot of fragrances
Eau Sauvage - a woman's fragrance turned into a men's fragrance that turned marketing upside down
Caron Pour Homme
Le Male - I mean seriously is there a scent for men more iconic and copied than this?
Aqua di Gio and Cool Water
And Amen was at the forefront of the Gourmand insanity
I hate to say it since I dislike this fragrance but Curve. Not many men in their college years went without some Curve in their lives.
Jicky (The first ever unisex frag. And one of the oldest frags still around.)
Shalimar (A classic any way you cut it.)
Kouros (Sheer sexiness and pure market impact)
Patou pour Homme (Fine ingredients, incredible complexity.)
Royal English Leather (For sheer age and historical importance.)
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I do see alot of people mentioning Cool Water
but I thought cool water came after GIT to which it is so similiar
I would think that GIT is a better replacement in terms of influence over cool water (since it influnced cool water EVEN if it was made by the same perfume designer)
New West by Aramis
Eau de Cologne by Johann Maria Farina gegenuber dem Julichs-Platz. The original eau de cologne, first produced in 1714.
Two roads diverged in a yellow wood, and sorry I could not travel both and be one traveler, long I stood and looked down one as far as I could to where it bent in the undergrowth; Then took the other, as just as fair, ...... I shall be telling this with a sigh somewhere ages and ages hence: Two roads diverged in a wood, and I -- I took the one less traveled by, and that has made all the difference. - Robert Frost
My scent of the day...Habit Rouge.
Green Irish Tweed
Also Brut, Drakkar and Acqua Di Gio.
I know not what course others may take but, as for me, give me Mitsouko! Mitsouko has been THE influencing fragrance of all the rest.
farina's eau de cologne
caron pour un homme
then a lot of newer stuff.
I would second LeMale...the first mainstream (in my young life) that was unabashedly metrosexual...and proud of it. Even some of my gun-toting homophobic friends wear it.
I'll just answer this for my own experience, not the history of perfume. From Charles Jourdan The Parfum I learned about dynamism and balance, and it set a new standard for my sampling (though just because a frag is not as good as CJTP doesn't mean I don't want to wear it once every few weeks).
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Have to say Aqua di Gio even though it tends not to be very popular here.Still I find myself wearing it from time to time.
Houbigant's Fougere Royale.
All this talk about Cool Water seems to ignore the fact that it is a fougere.
Most influential, historically speaking? MdM, Jicky, Shalimar, Chanel No. 5, Eau Sauvage, probably Cool Water. And you can pick out a handful more that defined a decade or particular period and set a path for other makers to follow.
Personally? GIT. Got a sample courtesy of Esquire UK, and it unlocked something new.
And yet I look back to my teenage years, and think about L'Egoïste and Fahrenheit, especially after reading Luca and Tania's reflections. I haven't smelled either in years, but I know how they smell: they smell of the early 90s. Neither are particularly influential, at least in terms of imitators, but wave a testing strip of Fahrenheit under the nose of anyone my age and they'll tell you a story about it.
All very good mentions. I would think of a name then, boom, there it would be on the screen. Two that I didn't see were Opium PH which really grabbed the clove note and took it to dizzying heights. It is the father of spicy orientals and, I feel, opened the door for the likes of A*MEN in terms of excitement and individuality for a male marketed frag.
Also think Hammam Bouquet is worth a mention as soft yet masculine frag in a time when sparkly citruses and bracing fougeres were the norm.
P.S. Glad to see New West mentioned. I find that it is too often overlooked particularly with regard to its ground breaking status and influence on the future of aquatics.
Last edited by argogos; 18th March 2009 at 04:21 AM.
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AdG is the epitome of 'influential'...look at what it set in motion lol
How about Eternity, sort of ushering in the age of the light, fresh, aquatics?
Guerlain Vetiver --- inspired all vetiver centered frags that are still coming.
Polo ----- inspired all the big 80's masculines
Old Spice ---- inspired many spice Island type scents in the 80's, 90's
Royal English Leather ---- inspired sweet leather as a fragrance idea.
Eternity ---- started the "fresh" movement in fragrances
Bois du Portugal ---- inspired Heritage, New York etc.
Patchouli Incense and essential oils ---- inspired patchouli fragrances
Apres L' Ondee ---- inspired all the cool iris floral and wood scents that followed.
Every successful fragrance influences those that follow. Success inspires confirmation of the original thought and then imitation.
Last edited by Buzzlepuff; 18th March 2009 at 02:12 PM.
I didn't read all posts. In case the following have not been mentioned yet, I consider these to have been extremely influential in western perfumery:
The first Masculine / Feminine leathers:
- Tabac Blond (Ernest Daltroff 1919)
- The Knize Ten (Vincent Roubert 1924)
(Sorry guys, I would have serious problems accepting Creeds Royal English Leather, as the first
leather fragrance in the world, and claimed to have been created in 1780 by 'perfumer Creed').
One of the Pierre Montale Paris oudhs. It doesn't matter which, but say Black Aoud to name a masculine (Pierre Montale, 2005).
How about Vétivers before Guerlain ?
Vétiver Carven 1957; Vétiver Givenchy 1959; Vetyver Lanvin 1964; Eau de Vetyver Le Galion 1969
Last edited by narcus; 18th March 2009 at 06:22 PM.
'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.
In the words of Spinal Tap. "this list goes to 11":
-Jicky (first modern fragrance, and first to use synthetics)
-Chanel No. 5 (first to use aldehydes, still a Top 5 seller in Europe and USA to this day)
-Shalimar (first oriental fragrance, still popular today)
-Youth-Dew (proved that American perfume houses can be as good as European ones)
-Aramis (the fragrance that singlehandedly introduced the concept of prestige fragrance to the American mass masculine sector)
-Eau Sauvage (introduced the freshness concept to the men's market)
-Opium (revolutionized marketing campaigns for fragrance through the use of models... good juice, too)
-Giorgio Beverly Hills for women (started the 1980s power perfumes trend... so strong, some restaurants banned it)
-Angel (the first gourmand fragrance... spawned a legion of knockoffs)
-L'eau d'Issey (the scent singlehandedly responsible for the current freshness trend... before AdG and others, it proved that fresh sells)
-ck one (the first commercially successful mass-market unisex... it turned "unisex" from an industry no-no into a buzzword overnight)
Last edited by MFfan310; 18th March 2009 at 06:43 PM.
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I'd say Polo, Acqua di Gio and Chanel No 5 as probably the most influential.
Spring/Summer Wardrobe: vetiver extraordinaire, rose 31, terre d'hermes!
Well in more recent fragrance trends:
CK One pretty much started the 90's "smell like clean citrus water" trend
Angel started the pastry and sweet shop syrupy candy phase we're seeing right now
Of course the Guerlains that became the gold standards - Imperiale, Jicky, Mitsouko, Shalimar, Vol de Nuit, and L'Heure Bleu. I believe Djedi is far more influential that it is ever given credit for, probably because it's so hard to find a sample of. It was a vetiver-centric fragrance in the 20s - the earliest strong vetiver I know of.
Let's see... Chanel No.5, Bois des Iles, Pour Monsieur, and Cuir de Russie all were early pioneers.
Obviously Chypre de Coty and Fougere Royale pioneered genres.
Getting into more modern times, we've got Ralph Lauren Polo that is still being copied. Dior Eau Sauvage and Diorella reinvented their respective genres. Although not always recognized as such, fragrances that moved masculines from macho to more relaxed in the early 90s like Rochas Globe and Guerlain Heritage were influential.
As for the AdGs and Cool Waters that started the aquatic/citrus/water popularity.... they were influential for sure... influential in dumbing down the art of perfumery for a generation.
How can Shalimar be the first oriental when Guerlains own Jicky influenced S? Jicky was created in 1889. Other earlier ones were Coty's Emeraude 1921,
and Caron's Narcisse Noir 1911. More than one Guerlain perfume had been "inspired by" fragrances from Coty.
Last edited by narcus; 18th March 2009 at 10:00 PM.
'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.
That's what Michael Edwards said about that in his inetrview which you can find on BN http://www.basenotes.net/interviews/int-medwards.html:
"BN: Which male fragrances do you think have been the most important for the
men's fragrance industry as a whole? Why?
ME: Here are my benchmarks, the movers and shakers whose fragrances have influenced the evolution of men's fragrances: (The house is in brackets, followed by the perfumer.):
1930: Pour Un Homme (Caron / Ernest Daltroff)
1935: Canoe (Dana / Jean Carles)
1937: Old Spice (Shulton / Albert Hauck)
1949: Moustache (Rochas / Edmond & Theresa Roudnitska)
1952: Pino Silvestre (Silvestre / Lino Vidal)
1955: Chanel Pour Monsieur (Chanel / Henri Robert)
1957: Vetiver de Carven (Carven / Edouard Hache)
1959: Tabac Original (Maurer & Wirtz / Arturo Jordi-Pey)
1961: Vetiver de Guerlain (Guerlain / Jean Paul Guerlain)
1964: Brut (Fabergé / Karl Mann)
1965: Aramis (Estée Lauder Aramis division / Bernard Chant)
1965: Habit Rouge (Guerlain / Jean Paul Guerlain)
1966: Eau Sauvage (Dior / Edmond Roudnitska)
1973: Jovan Musk for Men (Jovan / Murray Moscona)
1973: Paco Rabanne Pour Homme (Paco Rabanne / Jean Martel)
1974: Givenchy Gentleman (Givenchy / Paul Leger)
1976: Grey Flannel (Geoffrey Beene / Andre Fromentin)
1976: Halston Z-14 (Halston / Vincent Marcello, Max Gavarry)
1978: Azzaro Pour Homme (Azzaro / Anthony Gerard, Martin Heiddenreich, Richard Wirtz)
1978: Devin (Aramis / Bernard Chant)
1978: Lagerfeld (Lagerfeld / Ron Winnegrade)
1978: Polo (Ralph Lauren / Carlos Benaim)
1978: Van Cleef & Arpels (VCA / Louis Monnet)
1981: Eau d'Hadrien (Annick Goutal / Annick Goutal, Francis Camail)
1981: Kouros (YSL / Pierre Bourdon)
1982: Drakkar Noir (Guy Laroche / Pierre Wargnye)
1984: Armani Pour Homme (Armani / Roger Pellegrino)
1986: Obsession for Men (Klein / Bob Slattery)
1988: Cool Water (Davidoff / Pierre Bourdon)
1988: Fahrenheit (Dior / Jean Louis Sieuzac, Maurice Roger)
1989: Joop! Homme (Joop! / Michel Almairac)
1991: Kenzo Pour Homme (Kenzo / Christian Mathieu)
1993: Escape for Men (Calvin Klein / Steve Demarcato)
1995: Tommy (Aramis / Annie Buzantian, Alberto Morillas) (...)"
I would agree with most. I am especially glad he mentioned: Old Spice, Tabac, Grey Flannel and Kenzo PH which are milestones in men's perfumes industry IMO.
From newer ones I would add:
Gucci Pour Homme, Dior Homme, Terre D'Hermes, Chanel Egoiste, YSL M7, YSL Opium, Mugler Amen.
Last edited by fqjcior; 19th March 2009 at 07:21 AM.
I think the influence- either involuntary or deliberate (sometimes being downright shameless copied or cloned by inferior creations)- of the following scents on the fragrance world, has been decisive: Original Eau de Cologne (by Farina), Chanel No. 5, Opium- both male and female, almost the entire Emporio Armani range, Eau Sauvage, pour Monsieur, JPG Le Male and quite a few more.
Sounds lame, but definitely Old Spice
animale animale (1994) was the first gourmand fragrance for men. a*men, launched two years later, is its camp younger brother on steroids.
Fahrenheit : maybe first violet leaf scent for men?
Dior homme: first iris flower for male fragance
Last edited by blackened; 26th March 2011 at 12:27 PM.
my current top five (always in transition)
Dior Eau Noire
HdP 1725 Casanova
eau de gloire parfum d'empire
Dia man Amouage
comme des garçons man 2
In chronological order:
Hungary Water (1200's to 1300's - the first alcohol-based perfume)
Farina Gegenuber Kölnisch Wasser (1709; the first Eau de Cologne)
4711 (Important and popular Eau de Cologne)
Jean Marie Farina / Extra Vielle by Roger & Gallet (another influential Eau de Cologne)
Eau de Cologne Impériale by Guerlain (influential Guerlain Eaux that Napoleon reportedly used)
Fougère Royale (the first fougère and launched a whole damn genre of the stuff)
Jicky (first unisex perfume, and not based on one flower in particular)
Chypre de Coty (need I say more?)
Mitsouko (followed in Chypre de Coty's footsteps and was perhaps even more influential - still around today)
Acqua di Parma Colonia (made a huge mark in the cologne world, helped to solidify the presence of Italian fragrance)
Tabac Blond by Caron (perhaps the first popular leather fragrance, helped to solidify androgyny in perfume)
Chanel No. 5 (first perfume to utilize aldehydes to the nth degree, and well...... it's No. 5)
Cuir de Russie by Chanel (another androgynous leather that broke barriers)
Shalimar by Guerlain (pioneered oriental fragrances)
Joy by Jean Patou (revolutionized floral fragrances and made a huge impact during the Great Depression)
Tabu by Dana (ushered in affordable perfume)
Caron Pour un Homme (the first masculine fragrance actually marketed to men)
Old Spice (the one and only!)
Agua Lavanda by Antonio Puig (important lavender fragrance that helped to put Spanish fragrances on the map)
Miss Dior (the first Christian Dior fragrance)
Bandit by Robert Piguet (revolutionized the androgynous leather chypre)
English Leather by Dana (spearheaded affordable men's fragrances)
Youth Dew by Estée Lauder (put American fragrance on the map)
Chanel Pour Monsieur (the definitive men's chypre)
Diorissimo (first fragrance to accurately depict lily of the valley)
Cabochard by Grés (androgynous leather chypre later recreated in Aramis)
Guerlain Vetiver (not the first vetiver, but definitely the most influential)
Brut (the drugstore classic)
Aramis (important leather chypre that is still around today)
Habit Rouge (influential men's fragrance)
Eau Sauvage (quintessential men's citrus fragrance, still around today)
Rive Gauche (the queen of rose fragrances)
Diorella (revolutionized the citrus chypre genre)
Jovan Musk for Men (made a big name for drugstore fragrances)
Paco Rabanne Pour Homme (the first aromatic fougère, arguably)
Cristalle by Chanel (important androgynous citrus chypre)
Grey Flannel by Geoffrey Beene (the masculine violet fragrance to end all)
Opium by Yves Saint Laurent (revolutionized the oriental style of fragrance)
Azzaro Pour Homme (IMO the best aromatic fougère ever - highly influential, and ushered in the powerhouse era)
Polo by Ralph Lauren (very important coniferous masculine)
Anaïs Anaïs by Cacharel (ergonomical floral for adolescent girls)
Eau d'Orange Verte by Hermès (modernized the Eau de Cologne)
Patou Pour Homme (a landmark in quality and art that still stands unmatched today)
Giorgio Beverly Hills (one of the first women's powerhouse fragrances that sold greatly due to how it was advertised)
Stetson (still a drugstore classic today)
Quorum by Antonio Puig (in a way, represents the powerhouse genre)
Green Irish Tweed (the fresh fougère that IMO ushered in the "current" era of fragrances)
Poison by Christian Dior (the apex of the powerhouse era)
Cool Water (the fragrance that made "fresh" popular)
Fahrenheit (set a new standard for abstract fragrances; motor oil)
Eternity for Men (helped to set in motion the fresh fougère genre)
New West by Aramis (the first aquatic)
Joop! Homme (ushered in sweet fragrances for men)
Égoïste by Chanel (influential woody scent that had a "modern" smell to it)
Kenzo Pour Homme (the first fragrance to accurately represent the ocean)
Gendarme (the pioneer of soapy fragrances)
Angel by Thierry Mugler (well...... it's Angel!)
Animale Animale (the first gourmand)
L'Eau d'Issey Pour Homme (helped to usher in the fresh fragrances along with CK one and Acqua di Gio)
CK One (put unisex fragrances on the map)
Havana by Aramis (perhaps the last true "powerhouse")
Acqua di Gio (the most popular masculine fragrance ever)
Millésime Imperial / Silver Mountain Water (put the Creed Millésime's on the map and spearheaded the fresh era)
Le Male by Jean Paul Gaultier (not my style, but the king of powdery metrosexual men's fragrances)
Bulgari Pour Homme (defined tea fragrances)
Chrome by Azzaro (ushered in the "metallic" genre)
Angel Men (the first POPULAR gourmand)
Curve by Liz Claiborne (reinforced the popularity of fresh, "beachy" fragrances)
Bulgari Black (brought a new level of uniqueness to the industry)
Mugler Cologne (the one that made "soapy" fragrances popular)
M7 by Yves Saint Laurent (the fragrance that made oud popular)
SEEKING BOTTLES OF:
Aramis New West (preferably old bottle)
Patrick by Fragrances of Ireland
Gloria by Cacharel
PM me if you have bottles that you're willing to sell or trade!
I just can see those elitists saying:
Wait, A*men is French, see, while Animale Animale is just a yankee perfume so A*men must be better.
What surprised me even more is that nobody but one (bbBD) mentioned the most influential perfume of then all, Fougere Royale by Houbigant, it changed the perfume world forever, and did create a new concept in fragrances.
Also worth to mention are Chanel # 5, Jicky, Farina Gegenuber
Last edited by PerfumeCollector; 26th March 2011 at 05:32 PM.