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  1. #1
    Saintpaulia's Avatar
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    Exclamation Arpege by Lanvin?

    Recently I had the good fortune to find a terribly generous soul, one of our own here on Basenotes, who offered to send me some samples from his wardrobe. And what a wardrobe! I had to keep slapping my hands from wanting it all.

    Disciplining myself as best I could, I asked him to send me about half a dozen of his fragrances. One of these I asked for was Arpege by Lanvin. Gosh! I remember hearing about this on the old black and white TV being touted on "Queen for a Day" (that dates me -- and you -- one way or t'other! LOL).

    It was and has been one of the truly famous female fragrances. So why did I want to experience it? And why am I writing about it on the Male Fragrance Forum? Good question.

    Well, because, on this instance, I have to agree with Luca Turin, when he wrote of Arpege: I've long held the opinion that, much as people's politics tend to drift rightward with age, perfumes become more masculine with time. This is partly due to the fact that most classic feminines undergo breast reduction at each reformulation, and partly due to the outrageous borderline-slutty girliness of many modern feminines, which make the ladylike masterpieces of an earlier age seem positively virile. Add to that the fact that most modern masculines are either fresh-woody nonentities or chemical foghorns, and you will see why the discerning guy raids his granma's shelves. Arpege is a case in point.

    I dunno - to my ill-educated, more or less ignorant nose, Arpege is but a few centimetre's from Aramis, well...sort of. Poetic license and all. But in the right direction!

    So my male friends, if you have gotten curious as the result of reading Luca, do get ahold of some Arpege and have a sniff. I'd be very interested in what you have to say in response.

    Cheers, St. P
    "Classics aren't classics because they seem old but because they seem always new". Tania Sanchez

  2. #2
    hednic's Avatar
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    Default Re: Arpege by Lanvin?

    Was one of my grandmother's favorites.

  3. #3
    Pollux's Avatar
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    Default Re: Arpege by Lanvin?

    Thanks for sharing, I am giving this one a thorough thought before buying it blind...

  4. #4

    Default Re: Arpege by Lanvin?

    Arpège is an aldehydic floral in the same vein as Chanel No 5 (and I love them both), but No 5 is sweeter and more powdery, which might make Arpège more male-friendly. I wear both without hesitation.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Arpege by Lanvin?

    After reading Turin's book and his comments about the women's Arpege (namely that it's unisex) I sought it out and tested it.

    In my opinion, to my nose it is plainly and unambiguously a feminine scent (i.e. the type of scent that the majority of males and majority of females, if asked to classify it, would classify it as feminine).
    Regards,
    Renato

  6. #6
    Saintpaulia's Avatar
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    Default Re: Arpege by Lanvin?

    Quote Originally Posted by Pollux View Post
    Thanks for sharing, I am giving this one a thorough thought before buying it blind...
    O Pollux! I wouldn't buy it blind! Or anything else for that matter. I learned that lesson in the first 2 weeks of my beginnings in fragrance study. Just find a sample or even see if it is at a local counter (doubt that!). As I said, the generosity of a guy w/ a huge wardrobe gave me the opportunity.
    "Classics aren't classics because they seem old but because they seem always new". Tania Sanchez

  7. #7
    Saintpaulia's Avatar
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    Default Re: Arpege by Lanvin?

    Quote Originally Posted by tott View Post
    Arpège is an aldehydic floral in the same vein as Chanel No 5 (and I love them both), but No 5 is sweeter and more powdery, which might make Arpège more male-friendly. I wear both without hesitation.
    Thanks Tott. I didn't know that was a cogent classification and that it joins both in that aldehydic way. Also I have to say that I admire any man that wear Chanel No. 5! No, really. I am not sure I could go quite that far, LOL. But that said, I did just tout Arpege!! ;-)
    "Classics aren't classics because they seem old but because they seem always new". Tania Sanchez

  8. #8
    Saintpaulia's Avatar
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    Default Re: Arpege by Lanvin?

    Quote Originally Posted by Renato View Post
    After reading Turin's book and his comments about the women's Arpege (namely that it's unisex) I sought it out and tested it. In my opinion, to my nose it is plainly and unambiguously a feminine scent (i.e. the type of scent that the majority of males and majority of females, if asked to classify it, would classify it as feminine).
    Regards, Renato
    Dear Renato, I understand very well what you mean. It is even as Luca puts it, "old lady" feminine. But yesterday I put it on a paper card and let it waft around the room and I think I might be able to wear it. But to each his own, eh?
    "Classics aren't classics because they seem old but because they seem always new". Tania Sanchez

  9. #9
    Pollux's Avatar
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    Default Re: Arpege by Lanvin?

    Quote Originally Posted by Saintpaulia View Post
    O Pollux! I wouldn't buy it blind! Or anything else for that matter. I learned that lesson in the first 2 weeks of my beginnings in fragrance study. Just find a sample or even see if it is at a local counter (doubt that!). As I said, the generosity of a guy w/ a huge wardrobe gave me the opportunity.
    Yes, you are right. As a matter of fact, Renato's comment made me think about this "blind-buying wannabe", but... I have a great friend who happens to be a Base Noter so I have the chance of swapping or selling it to her. Or, else, Mother will appreciate it as an off-brithday present, she is into classics - she just finished a bottle of Chanel N° 5 and is in the way of running up a 100 Ml bottle of Youth Dew.

    Off topic, regarding your signature: as a lecturer in charge of sophomore and senior students attesting to the generational gap, I certainly can give an account as to the fact that what Mr. Allais says applies perfectly to the Watergate case

  10. #10

    Default Re: Arpege by Lanvin?

    What a great thread! You've piqued my interest in sampling this. Lately I've been buying a quite a bit of feminine samples as my wife has cut me off from buying her any more perfume... I was getting her bottles that I wanted to smell, but she's not into this.

    As a side, I'm very intrested in a sample of No.5. I just haven't gotten around to getting one.

    Regards,

    ...NDN-01!!!
    Last edited by NDN-01; 19th May 2011 at 12:08 AM. Reason: sp

  11. #11
    Saintpaulia's Avatar
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    Default Re: Arpege by Lanvin?

    Quote Originally Posted by Pollux View Post
    Off topic, regarding your signature: as a lecturer in charge of sophomore and senior students attesting to the generational gap, I certainly can give an account as to the fact that what Mr. Allais says applies perfectly to the Watergate case
    I do favor droll humor. I saw this quote in Luca's book. He also favors droll humor. That's probably why I like him. I thank you for trying to educate the younger generation. Lord knows they need it with all this texting and abbreviations! Here's a bow to yours on Watergate: As time passes I meet fewer and fewer people who knew John Dean!
    "Classics aren't classics because they seem old but because they seem always new". Tania Sanchez

  12. #12

    Default Re: Arpege by Lanvin?

    Quote Originally Posted by Saintpaulia View Post
    Dear Renato, I understand very well what you mean. It is even as Luca puts it, "old lady" feminine. But yesterday I put it on a paper card and let it waft around the room and I think I might be able to wear it. But to each his own, eh?
    If it grabs you, it grabs you. Enjoy it.

    I actually like Fleur du Male which I think smells somewhat feminine - but my wife threatens me when I suggest buying it, taunts me as to why I'd want to wear a girl's scent (she has a similar nose to mine).
    Cheers,
    Renato

  13. #13

    Default Re: Arpege by Lanvin?

    EdP or EdT?
    "I exist for myself, and for those to whom my unquenchable thirst for freedom gives everything, but also for everyone, since insofar as I am able to love - I love everyone. Of noble hearts, I am the noblest - and the most generous of those that yearn to give love in return. - I am a human being, I love death and I love life."

    Egon Schiele - Self-Potrait


    My classics: Dior Homme EdT, YSL Rive Gauche PH, Helmut Lang Cuiron, L'Occitane Neroli (vintage), Davidoff Zino, L'Occitane Eau des Baux

    http://www.basenotes.net/wardrobe/2976

  14. #14
    Saintpaulia's Avatar
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    Default Re: Arpege by Lanvin?

    Quote Originally Posted by manicboy View Post
    EdP or EdT?
    Eau de Toilette
    "Classics aren't classics because they seem old but because they seem always new". Tania Sanchez

  15. #15

    Default Re: Arpege by Lanvin?

    This may be an unwelcome female comment, but I can say with experience that Arpege on a man is really enticing to me …it has a boozy, clean floral quality that evokes ‘mysterious, complex man heading out from the club’ sort of aura.

  16. #16
    rogalal's Avatar
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    Default Re: Arpege by Lanvin?

    I was really disappointed by the current formulation. I know that's sort of a Basenotes cliche, but I swear it's like they took out all the basenotes, so it's just topnotes that burn off after about an hour. (When a perfume goes from being a hyper-luxury scent to a cheapie, they have to cut costs somewhere...). When I read about how the classic version is supposed to be one of the top 10 perfumes of all time, I know something must have gone really wrong between then and now.

    On the note of men wearing aldehydes (and men wearing womens perfumes in general), my advice to every man here is to wear Old Spice and Chanel No 5 next to each other. Aside from No 5 having a much nicer base and Old Spice having a weird meaty spice note in the background, they're 90% alike. Yes, the most most iconic mens and womens scents are both powdery aldehydic florals. Your tough-ass WWII veteran grandpa smelled almost the same as your pretty housewife grandmother on a fancy night out. Now stop worrying about it! It really is mostly marketing...
    Has everyone checked out my Top 100 Blog??

  17. #17
    Pollux's Avatar
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    Default Re: Arpege by Lanvin?

    I got a bottle and found it, as mentioned by Renato, pretty girly... of course, Nymphaeas remark regarding that

    Quote Originally Posted by Nymphaea View Post
    ... I can say with experience that Arpege on a man is really enticing to me …it has a boozy, clean floral quality that evokes ‘mysterious, complex man heading out from the club’ sort of aura.
    makes me think abut giving a full wear in order to see reactions (will report back if I don't get stoned for crossing gender borders, LOL).

    On the other hand

    Quote Originally Posted by rogalal View Post
    ... I swear it's like they took out all the basenotes, so it's just topnotes that burn off after about an hour...
    I cannot avoid getting this feeling, for the longevity is minimal besides the fact that I don't find much complexity in it. Yes, yet another BN cliché...

    Still, pros or cons, I regard it as a worth smelling scent.

  18. #18
    Saintpaulia's Avatar
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    Default Re: Arpege by Lanvin?

    Well at least my thread wasn't seen as mainly irrelevent and uninteresting. As a new Basenotist, venturing out beyond the confines of Just Starting Out I never know how my thoughts will be received! And, I really have appreciated reading your all's views. Educational. Thanks. Breck
    "Classics aren't classics because they seem old but because they seem always new". Tania Sanchez

  19. #19
    Pollux's Avatar
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    Default Re: Arpege by Lanvin?

    Quote Originally Posted by Saintpaulia View Post
    Well at least my thread wasn't seen as mainly irrelevent and uninteresting...
    Breck, welcome to the classic-perfumes fan club: being a new BNoter or not, all comments and thoughts are well received. So, welcome in!

  20. #20
    Saintpaulia's Avatar
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    Default Re: Arpege by Lanvin?

    Quote Originally Posted by Pollux View Post
    Breck, welcome to the classic-perfumes fan club: being a new BNoter or not, all comments and thoughts are well received. So, welcome in!
    Muchas gracias a mi amigo en Argentina!!!
    Last edited by Saintpaulia; 21st May 2011 at 02:06 AM.
    "Classics aren't classics because they seem old but because they seem always new". Tania Sanchez

  21. #21

    Default Re: Arpege by Lanvin?

    Quote Originally Posted by Saintpaulia View Post
    I never know how my thoughts will be received! And, I really have appreciated reading your all's views.
    Don't worry about how your thoughts will be received - it is extremely rare that someone (or many) will not disagree with something you post. All part of very robust and fun discussion.

    Cheers,
    Renato

    P.S. Have you mentioned your thoughts on Arpege Homme?

  22. #22
    Pollux's Avatar
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    Default Re: Arpege by Lanvin?

    Quote Originally Posted by Saintpaulia View Post
    Muchas gracias a mi amigo en Argentina!!!
    No hay por qué!... this meaning, you are welcome!

  23. #23
    AromiErotici
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    Default Re: Arpege by Lanvin?

    Sample it. You may like it like others here on the board.

    As for me, I couldn't scrub it off fast enough and gave the bottle away as a freebie.

  24. #24
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    Default Re: Arpege by Lanvin?

    Quote Originally Posted by AromiErotici View Post
    Sample it. You may like it like others here on the board.

    As for me, I couldn't scrub it off fast enough and gave the bottle away as a freebie.
    I am giving it a full wear right now and so far, I am not feeling comfortable wearing it. I find it way too floral for my tastes: not that this is a bad thing per se - I sure don't like Insensé, but I do like Le 3me Homme - but in this case the floral aldehydes play to my nose an analogous reaction that a high note would have in my ears, besides the fact I cannot avoid being reminded of Chanel's N° 5 blend.

    Now, it does get my attention that Mr. Pescheux, the nose behind the male version, did not resort to any of the attributes of the original one: if I were him, I would have played with masculine-related notes in the original blend. Maybe he tried, failed at it and decided to move in another direction for floral aldehydes are quite femenine, thus the reason Arpege pour Homme is an oriental woody.

    Are women's orientals and chypres the ones men can easily wear? IMHO, I do guess so, based from my experience. Of course, you are free to disagree...

    Edit: An hour and a half after application it feels a bit better, but it did not change that much. It is still true to its original top notes.
    Last edited by Pollux; 21st May 2011 at 05:03 PM.

  25. #25
    AromiErotici
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    Default Re: Arpege by Lanvin?

    Quote Originally Posted by Pollux View Post
    I am giving it a full wear right now and so far, I am not feeling comfortable wearing it. I find it way too floral for my tastes: not that this is a bad thing per se - I sure don't like Insensé, but I do like Le 3me Homme - but in this case the floral aldehydes play to my nose an analogous reaction that a high note would have in my ears, besides the fact I cannot avoid being reminded of Chanel's N° 5 blend.

    Now, it does get my attention that Mr. Pescheux, the nose behind the male version, did not resort to any of the attributes of the original one: if I were him, I would have played with masculine-related notes in the original blend. Maybe he tried, failed at it and decided to move in another direction for floral aldehydes are quite femenine, thus the reason Arpege pour Homme is an oriental woody.

    Are women's orientals and chypres the ones men can easily wear? IMHO, I do guess so, based from my experience. Of course, you are free to disagree...

    Edit: An hour and a half after application it feels a bit better, but it did not change that much. It is still true to its original top notes.
    I feel you bro. I couldn't deal with it at all.

    I love Caron 3rd Man, yet I no longer wish to wear Tenere. I guess it's a matter of floral implementation that makes it a deal breaker......or a keeper.

  26. #26
    Pollux's Avatar
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    Default Re: Arpege by Lanvin?

    Quote Originally Posted by AromiErotici View Post
    ... I guess it's a matter of floral implementation that makes it a deal breaker......or a keeper.
    You bet, it must be so. I now wonder which flowers and wich "flowers": this last are the ones that cannot be distilled or being way too expensive, so noses have to resort to aromachemicals and/ or essences in order to buld that particular accord etc.

  27. #27
    Saintpaulia's Avatar
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    Default Re: Arpege by Lanvin?

    Rogalal wrote: Re: Arpege by Lanvin?
    I was really disappointed by the current formulation. I know that's sort of a Basenotes cliche, but I swear it's like they took out all the basenotes, so it's just topnotes that burn off after about an hour.
    I put on a goodly amount of Arpege yesterday. Just now, this evening, 24 hours later, I put on a shirt I wore yesterday when I had the Arpege on. I can still smell the scent! There are certainly basenotes in this formulation. I believe this is a 90s vintage Arpege. I got it as a free sample from a Basenoter so it does not have great provenance. But in 24 hour dry-down Arpege is quite subtle and wonderful! I don't know how to describe it.
    "Classics aren't classics because they seem old but because they seem always new". Tania Sanchez

  28. #28

    Default Re: Arpege by Lanvin?

    The Arpege bottle I purchased last year has decent sillage and persistence, and feels as dark as LT says it is. But, as LT mentioned in his book, Arpege has been shifting around for a while, so there could be different versions on sale at the same time. Also, I saw some Arpege at a discounter a few months later, which is sometimes a sign of old stock being cleared before a reformulation. I also saw a bottle of the parfum in a local store, but it's expensive and one cannot smell, so I cannot report how the parfum is.

    cacio

  29. #29
    Basenotes Junkie SirNosebleed's Avatar
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    Default Re: Arpege by Lanvin?

    The bottle I just bought from Perfumania is a rich, dark floral perfectly suited for men. The new formulation is intoxicating. If you're not a believer in "florals" for men then you should check this out, along with Aramis 900 and Frederic Malle Portait of a Lady.

  30. #30

    Default Re: Arpege by Lanvin?

    Glorious fragrance. Think this was one, if not the, first women's I blind bought and wore myself, thanks to the recommendation in Turin's book.

    Top notes can seem a tad feminine, esp if you have only just started to explore women's perfumes, but once it dries down it's not hard to wear even if one sports a penis.

  31. #31

    Default Re: Arpege by Lanvin?

    I like it and wear it.

  32. #32

    Default Re: Arpege by Lanvin?

    When tested, it was ok.

  33. #33
    Super Member chopwet's Avatar
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    Default Re: Arpege by Lanvin?

    I bought the EDP for my grandmother and she wears it often. Strangely enough I bought CDG2 for a friend and I find the two remarkably similar:

    Alderhyde opening and a vetiver drydown. So with Arpege you get a very similar effect for about a third of the price.


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