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  1. #1

    Default Article: I Dont Like The Word Exclusive An Interview With Franois Demachy At Diors New Perfume


    I am a four-time Jasmine Award winning fragrance critic, Basenotes contributor and regular columnist for Esprit Magazine and Feelunique. I've also written perfume articles for Sunday Times Style, Grazia, Now Smell This and The Scented Letter, amongst others. My perfume guide, Le Snob: Perfume, is published by Hardie Grant. Click on its title for more info.

    For reviews of new perfume releases and thoughts on all sorts of scent-related matters, please visit or find me on Twitter, Facebook and Instagram.

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    Many thanks.
    <div class="bnsotd"><b>Currently wearing:</b> <a href="ID26153756.html"><img src=""> Elements of Man : Passion by Ermenegildo Zegna</a></div>

  2. #2
    Dependent pluran's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Yachats, Oregon



    Demachy trained under the legendary Henri Robert (creator of Chanel Pour Monsieur, Chanel No. 19, and Chanel Cristalle).

    Regarding the EU/IFRA/LVMH/whoever restrictions, he's being as diplomatic as possible. There are so many juicy details left out of this "interview".

    Aside from those things, it's well known that Demachy was behind the scenes at Chanel for a long time, and at the very least it seems that he is as much responsible as Jacques Polge for Antaeus, Egoiste, and Coco.

    He is also the perfumer behind Ungaro 1, Ungaro III, Dior Homme Cologne (as good as Dior Homme edt in its own way), Farenheit 32, Eau Sauvage Fracheur Cuir, and Fahrenheit Absolute. And from what I can discern, Ungaro 2 was a joint creation between he and Polge.

    He's a master perfumer, and hopefully he'll be able to make a few more good fragrances by getting beyond the massive and ever increasing attempts at
    raw materials restriction which he didn't feel comfortable discussing here.

  3. #3


    Thanks for the interview!

    First I had heard that T. Wasser was pursuing this heritage status idea - that's encouraging!

  4. #4
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    Redneck Perfumisto's Avatar
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    Feb 2008
    Spiritually, Kansas
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    Yes - extremely enjoyable interview! The bit about Wasser, too, is fascinating. I love the idea, and I'm 100% behind it.
    Currently wearing: Polo by Ralph Lauren

  5. #5


    The new Dior salon is so beautiful, I can see how it might be easy to lose track of time there. I hope Thierry Wasser's campaign gains steam, it deserves to be brought to fruition. Excellent article, Persolaise.

  6. #6


    "Perfumery is comparable to cooking, in the sense that if you start with great ingredients, it’s easier to make a great dish." = couldn't agree more!

    "...campaign to obtain some sort of special status for 'heritage perfumes' – such as L’Heure Bleue and Mitsouko – which would make them exempt from certain fragrance regulations." = Where do I sign? What a great idea.

    Of course, LVHM could just resign from IFRA :happy:

  7. #7


    Thanks very much indeed for the comments, everybody.

    Nukapai, you're absolutely right, LVMH could just leave IFRA... but I think we both know that's not going to happen any time soon. Another point worth bearing in mind is that LVMH follow their own, stricter-than-IFRA guidelines on certain materials, particularly synthetic musks.
    <div class="bnsotd"><b>Currently wearing:</b> <a href="ID26153756.html"><img src=""> Elements of Man : Passion by Ermenegildo Zegna</a></div>

  8. #8
    Saintpaulia's Avatar
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    Feb 2011
    Spiritually Texas, Ancestrally Scotland
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    When I saw this comment my eyebrows raised: "Unfortunately, many of the old formulations – not just at Dior – have had to be changed so that they conform with the law."

    Law?! What law? My understanding of the situation, from having read the interview with 'what's her name', was that these are "suggestions" not laws.

  9. #9
    Calyx93's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Winston-Salem, NC


    Great article - glad to know someone's acknowledging the reformulations - and openly even!

    Even better is the "heritage perfumes" idea - it's about time somebody took a stance. Hopefully this will result in the restoration of some landmark fragrances.

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