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  1. #1
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    Default New Fragrance: Serge Lutens Vitriol d’Oeillet

    From nstperfume.com:

    Serge Lutens will launch Vitriol d’Oeillet, a new woody floral perfume in the export range, in July.

    The new ‘angry carnation” will feature spice notes, including cayenne, black pepper, pink pepper, nutmeg and clove, and is described as slightly powdery.

    Serge Lutens Vitriol d’Oeillet will be available in 50 ml Eau de Parfum.

    Please feel free to check out my Swap Thread - Patou pour Homme, L'Instant de Guerlain PH Extreme, Dior Homme Intense, Pure Malt, Pure Coffee and many more! Click Here For My Swap Thread

  2. #2

    Default Re: New Fragrance: Serge Lutens Vitriol d’Oeillet

    I cannot wait for this one. As I said in the other thread, I really think Serge will give us a kick ass carnation. If he doesn't I may have to go kick his ass. LOL
    DONNA

  3. #3
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    Default Re: New Fragrance: Serge Lutens Vitriol d’Oeillet

    Quote Originally Posted by donna255 View Post
    I cannot wait for this one. As I said in the other thread, I really think Serge will give us a kick ass carnation. If he doesn't I may have to go kick his ass. LOL
    I love carnation scents - so really looking forward to this one. I hope he does it justice.
    Please feel free to check out my Swap Thread - Patou pour Homme, L'Instant de Guerlain PH Extreme, Dior Homme Intense, Pure Malt, Pure Coffee and many more! Click Here For My Swap Thread

  4. #4
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    Default Re: New Fragrance: Serge Lutens Vitriol d’Oeillet

    I am also really looking forward to this one . Is this one going to be here Stateside, in July or September / Fall ?
    Donna - *LOL* yup ,better be some kick ass carnation ! *LOL*
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/370...o-Profumo-Onda
    For sale. Carnal Flower and Vero Profumo Onda.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: New Fragrance: Serge Lutens Vitriol d’Oeillet

    oooohhhh! Some kick ass carnation! Just what my collection needs!

  6. #6

    Default Re: New Fragrance: Serge Lutens Vitriol d’Oeillet

    Quote Originally Posted by donna255 View Post
    I cannot wait for this one. As I said in the other thread, I really think Serge will give us a kick ass carnation. If he doesn't I may have to go kick his ass. LOL
    HAHAHAHAHAHA!!! My sentiments exactly

  7. #7
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    Default Re: New Fragrance: Serge Lutens Vitriol d’Oeillet

    I love carnation but I'm a little worried about those peppers. Still, I look forward to trying this out more than I did with Jeux de Peau.

  8. #8

    Default Re: New Fragrance: Serge Lutens Vitriol d’Oeillet

    Oh. My. Lord. Yes. Can't. Wait.

  9. #9

    Default Re: New Fragrance: Serge Lutens Vitriol d’Oeillet

    Very excited as well, wish I knew how to pronounce the "oeillet" bit as well.

  10. #10

    Default Re: New Fragrance: Serge Lutens Vitriol d’Oeillet

    Quote Originally Posted by les*lucioles View Post
    Very excited as well, wish I knew how to pronounce the "oeillet" bit as well.
    the 'oe' is similar to the 'u' in 'curl'.
    the rest, i.e. 'illet' is similar to the 'ye' in 'yet'.

  11. #11

    Default Re: New Fragrance: Serge Lutens Vitriol d’Oeillet

    So it's pronounced 'Uh Yeah'! 'Vitriol d'uh yeah'. Excellent!

    (PS: this really doesn't sound like my sort of thing at all - but for those who do fancy it there's a bottle up on UK Ebay right now - it's not me selling it by the way!)

  12. #12

    Default Re: New Fragrance: Serge Lutens Vitriol d’Oeillet

    Yes I saw the bottle on ebay. Watching it, won't be bidding.

    I am getting a sample from Lutens as I get the emails so yesterday received one asking if I would like a sample? Silly question.
    Says its out in Paris July so perhaps August for general release.
    DONNA

  13. #13

    Default

    FYI, when I don't know how to pronounce a word, I just type it into Google Translate and click the speaker button to hear it spoken. I use the phone app but I think the web version has the audio feature too.

  14. #14

    Default Re: New Fragrance: Serge Lutens Vitriol d’Oeillet

    got a sample in mail today.first impresson: spicey,sweet,peppery opening...will report when dries down

  15. #15

    Default Re: New Fragrance: Serge Lutens Vitriol d’Oeillet

    My vitriol sample arrived today... this gives me a good laugh... Serge is doing the extremely successful Amouage thing. This smells similar to Memoir Woman with the same indefinite white flower/tuberose accord. Sorry, this does not smell of quality to me. What worries me most is that it is really dawning on me what new releases and brandnew reformulations I have smelled this year... if this is the product of IFRA 2010 this s going to bother me much much more than oakmoss. Ah yes, one more peppery frag and I'll go crazy. Are people's lives so dull out there?
    Carnation? Go for Caron as long as they can bring it out (from stock only?)!

  16. #16

    Default Re: New Fragrance: Serge Lutens Vitriol d’Oeillet

    I agree...smells cheap

  17. #17

    Default Re: New Fragrance: Serge Lutens Vitriol d’Oeillet

    I'm having a hard time imagining this one given the comparisons. Light, demure spicy oriental; heady, indolic spiced-lily and other things.

    Larimar - is it as heady as Memoir Woman? To my nose, Memoir Woman was an offensively loud grape-y jasmine mixed with that burnt note the Memoirs shared. If it's that loud and tuberose-y I just might like it even if fails at carnation and *sigh*, starts peppery.

    I wonder if it's any good. I know Sarrasins was roundly panned for not being A La Nuit, and later developed a following on here, so maybe this is getting panned because it's not Arabie or its ilk?

    Well, that's the optimist speaking. It'll probably suck.

  18. #18

    Default Re: New Fragrance: Serge Lutens Vitriol d’Oeillet

    Sugandaraja, no it is not that offensively loud, but synthetic smelling in the same way and as such it endures two dips in the pool... hmpf!
    You can have my sample together with the Jeaux de Peau or however it was called, so you can make up your own mind.

  19. #19

    Default Re: New Fragrance: Serge Lutens Vitriol d’Oeillet

    I really like it. Starts with peppery carnation and then turns into a lilies then a spicy floriental. Its not loud but I don't mind that at all. Not cheap at all. Now its not a big clove based carnation as many including me were expecting. You want that then Caron Bellodgia is perfect.
    DONNA

  20. #20

    Default Re: New Fragrance: Serge Lutens Vitriol d’Oeillet

    You guys keep talking please, and thank you for that -- the more opinions the better for everybody. Please do not forget old and trusted Malmaison if you are doing comparisons.

  21. #21
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    Default Re: New Fragrance: Serge Lutens Vitriol d’Oeillet

    I managed to sign up for this and get on the Sergie list - I ordered a sample . It is going to my UK adddress in London. I can get it sent over here to the US though. I am not in a huge hurry to smell it.
    Malmaison is lovely Twolfie.
    Also for good carnation - definitely JAR's Golconda, Diamond Water too plus C D G 's Carnation.
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/370...o-Profumo-Onda
    For sale. Carnal Flower and Vero Profumo Onda.

  22. #22

    Default Re: New Fragrance: Serge Lutens Vitriol d’Oeillet

    Malmaison has more in common with Bellodgia spicy clove wise. VdO is more quiet, the carnation and spice are in the opening then becomes more about lilies and spice. To be honest I get a sort of Daim Blond type vibe from it, there is a creamy sweetness about VdO.
    DONNA

  23. #23

    Default Re: New Fragrance: Serge Lutens Vitriol d’Oeillet

    I tried this one yesterday. The opening was all pink fluff and hairspray, then it turned greener and meaner (I found the heart notes rather sinister), but then it turned back to pink again, and the drydown was surprisingly soft and sweet.

    The notes made it sound spicier than what it turned out to be. Not bad, but not me. I'll stick to Caron Poivre & Coup de Fouet and CdG Red Series Carnation.
    "Wovon man nicht lesen kann, darüber muss man schreiben."

  24. #24

    Default Re: New Fragrance: Serge Lutens Vitriol d’Oeillet

    Quote Originally Posted by donna255 View Post
    To be honest I get a sort of Daim Blond type vibe from it, there is a creamy sweetness about VdO.
    I agree, the drydown definitely reminded me of DB.

    The opening was a bit like a pink version of Iris Silver Mist and the heart notes brought ELd'O Eloge du traitre to my mind...
    "Wovon man nicht lesen kann, darüber muss man schreiben."

  25. #25

    Default Re: New Fragrance: Serge Lutens Vitriol d’Oeillet

    I've signed up for the SL mailing list several times. I don't ever get any emails. Hmm.

  26. #26

    Default Re: New Fragrance: Serge Lutens Vitriol d’Oeillet

    Quote Originally Posted by calero View Post
    I've signed up for the SL mailing list several times. I don't ever get any emails. Hmm.
    They only send samples to Europe it seems.
    DONNA

  27. #27

    Default Re: New Fragrance: Serge Lutens Vitriol d’Oeillet

    I'm surprised not to see more feedback on this fragrance - where the Serge love?
    I'm just testing it for the first time and I think it quite nice.

    It's not at all a typical heavy Lutens fragrance (whatever that means).

    I'm not really getting an impression of carnation.

    The main smell to me is violet and a smell I associate with some moisturising creams.

    There also seems to be some iris and muted light coloured florals.
    Is the lily here too?

    The spices "throw" the fragrance up the nostrils a little which serves to provide a contrasting sensation of cool plus warm plus a bit powdery all at the same time.

    It seems to oscillate (does that make sense to anyone else?) which I really enjoy in a fragrance.

    This is a subtle floating fragrance without any heavy notes weighing it down, there's just some dull needles poking out which touch you lightly enough to be pleasant and interesting.

    There is a subtle and soft suede/white leather note but it doesn't feel much like Daim Blonds. To me it's lighter and smoother here.

    I suppose it could just be the peppers and nutmeg but I wonder if there's a tiny drop of civet (for the animalic touch and coolness) and a little amber back there somewhere? It feels like there is.

    I also get the feeling that I'm missing some notes, hopefully someone with a more experienced nose here can deconstruct this more.

    I'll see how the sample goes but I could see this being FBW. I'm not so sure about the "femininity" of this one it seems kind of dandy to me especially past the hour mark.

    Anyway, some more opinions would be great! I'm interested to read what others think.

  28. #28

    Default Re: New Fragrance: Serge Lutens Vitriol d’Oeillet

    I bought a FB. Yes I get lily though others say violets. For all the spice and pepper notes mentioned its actually more a floriental than a spicy powerhouse. Very wearable. I let some of the sa's in SpaceNK smell my bottle and they all loved it. The sa I bought mine off in House of Fraser got three bottles in the first week and sold every one of them(she put mine aside for me). So I think it will be very popular with the main stream crowd who perhaps wouldn't normally go for a SL fragrance.
    DONNA

  29. #29

    Default Re: New Fragrance: Serge Lutens Vitriol d’Oeillet

    Started peppery. 15 mins later I get the carnation.

    Almost doesn't feel like a Serge Lutens.

    for swap/sale:





  30. #30

    Default Re: New Fragrance: Serge Lutens Vitriol d’Oeillet

    I hate to throw in any sort of olfactory gender role conventions here, but is this something a man who normally goes for things like woodsy incensey fragrances ever go for? I do have some floral fragrances that I wear now and then, like Dominico Caraceni and Zino. I even have a bottle of Villoresi's Garofano, but that's really pushing the limit for me. It's almost impossible to tell anything from Serge's names and advertising, which I think is fine but it means that I frequently buy samples that, as a man, I realize I would never wear.

  31. #31
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    Default

    Just to say Parfum1 has this already - I'm amazed!
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/370...o-Profumo-Onda
    For sale. Carnal Flower and Vero Profumo Onda.

  32. #32

    Default Re: New Fragrance: Serge Lutens Vitriol d’Oeillet

    Quote Originally Posted by Tonyprince View Post
    I hate to throw in any sort of olfactory gender role conventions here, but is this something a man who normally goes for things like woodsy incensey fragrances ever go for? I do have some floral fragrances that I wear now and then, like Dominico Caraceni and Zino. I even have a bottle of Villoresi's Garofano, but that's really pushing the limit for me. It's almost impossible to tell anything from Serge's names and advertising, which I think is fine but it means that I frequently buy samples that, as a man, I realize I would never wear.
    The drydown is a yes but the opening and middle are leaning on the feminine. Definitely try before you buy.

  33. #33

    Default Re: New Fragrance: Serge Lutens Vitriol d’Oeillet

    I second what laph said. It made me think of Amouage Memoir Woman.

  34. #34
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    Default Re: New Fragrance: Serge Lutens Vitriol d’Oeillet

    Quote Originally Posted by Mimi Gardenia View Post
    Just to say Parfum1 has this already - I'm amazed!
    I was going to post the exact same words, Mims. How'd they do that??
    A Scent Rescuer
    Every great perfume deserves a good home

  35. #35

    Default Re: New Fragrance: Serge Lutens Vitriol d’Oeillet

    I received my sample last week and agree with those of you who
    get "violets" in the start of this. It is all pepper and cloves after that.
    I shall not be rushing out to buy a bottle.
    A woman without perfume is like a flower without a scent.

  36. #36

    Default Re: New Fragrance: Serge Lutens Vitriol d’Oeillet

    I'm not sure what to think of Vitriol. I'm neither impressed nor disappointed, but I'm not appalled, either.

    The whole affair is very synthetic-smelling; there's nothing much that smells of any real flower or spice. The opening comes with a pink bubblegum smell ( not bubblegum-y florals, but the real smell of the chewy stuff ) mixed with a transparent woody-peppery note. Neither clove nor carnation are in sight.

    The texture has a distinct woody-peppery vibe I associate with Iso-E-Super heavies like Perles de Lalique; a transparent astringency that moves in and out as one smells it. The drydown leans towards the violet-iris spectrum, with a faint Un Lys style lily note in the background. There is a faint, faint clove note, but for a comparison, the spice even in Un Lys itself is more prominent.

    I don't think this is a result of eugenol restrictions, as I can think of plenty of mainstream fragrances that are far, far more clove heavy. However, the name does seem very ironic in light of the veiled, transparent, and decidedly cool-toned fragrance.

    Pepper, cedar, violet, well, I'm starting to think this is a distant family relative of the Feminite du Bois family with everything made etiolated and faintly floral. It's one of the more appealing additions to the Bois family but not a great addition to the Lutens line on the whole.

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Larimar View Post
    I second what laph said. It made me think of Amouage Memoir Woman.
    Considering I had and sold Memoir Woman - I'm wondering if I'd like this at all !
    My sample is sitting in my flat in the UK I believe - no rush then !
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/370...o-Profumo-Onda
    For sale. Carnal Flower and Vero Profumo Onda.

  38. #38

    Default Re: New Fragrance: Serge Lutens Vitriol d’Oeillet

    For the record, I've now worn this twice and cannot make a connection to Memoir Woman.

    Memoir Woman = grape-crush jasmine and ash. Thick as a wall.

    Vitriol d'Oeillet = peppery-cedary sweet violet. Light as can be.

  39. #39
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    Default Re: New Fragrance: Serge Lutens Vitriol d’Oeillet

    Suga- I loved Memoir Woman once but it got on my nerves after a while. I always ended up feeling like a gothic moody babe with a razor in my hand . *LOL*
    Hmmm, Suga- the way you describe Vitriol d'Oeillet - it sounds better now . I can't do anymore gothic blackness.
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/370...o-Profumo-Onda
    For sale. Carnal Flower and Vero Profumo Onda.

  40. #40

    Default Re: New Fragrance: Serge Lutens Vitriol d’Oeillet

    Quote Originally Posted by Mimi Gardenia View Post
    Suga- I loved Memoir Woman once but it got on my nerves after a while. I always ended up feeling like a gothic moody babe with a razor in my hand . *LOL*


    I know just what you mean. Memoir Woman does seem like it should have one of those Black Phoenix Alchemy Labs style goth names, like ''DEATH Smells Of Black Jasmine'' or the like.

  41. #41
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    Default Re: New Fragrance: Serge Lutens Vitriol d’Oeillet

    Just received my free sample today. I don't get the association with Memoir Woman that some people have made. I think they are very different, it's a lot lighter than Memoir Woman. I think Sugandaraja has it right when he says "peppery-cedary sweet violet", I think that describes it very well.

  42. #42

    Default Re: New Fragrance: Serge Lutens Vitriol d’Oeillet

    I love this and ordered a FB!

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