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  1. #1

    Default Creator and Creation

    Hello Basenoters,

    I would like to start a small contest.
    Please do not take this thread to serious, as a perfume lovers, that we all are, we do realise, how difficult is to be 100% faithful to a Perfumer, house and so on...
    Back to business, I meant back to Thread, I will mention 1 Perfumer, and next to his (her) name you will find 3 perfumes, Would you please let me know your thoughts, impressions? In your opinion, should be possible to recognise perfumer's style, based on these 3 fragrances?


    1) Jean-Claude Ellena - Terre D'Hermes, Angeliques Sous La pluie and Bigarade Concentree;


    2) Bertrand Duchaufour - Jubilation XXV, Traversee du Bosphore and Timbuktu;


    3) Patricia de Nicolaï - New York, Sacrebleu and Cococabana;


    4) Paul Guerlain - Derby, Habit Rouge and Chamada;


    5) Guy Robert - Amouage Gold Man, Equipage by Hermes and Caleche;


    6) Ernest Beaux - Bois des Iles, Cuir de Russie, and Nr. 5;


    7) Francis Kurkdjian - Le Male, Absolue Pour le Soir and Rose Barbare;


    8) Dominique Ropion -Portrait of a lady, Ysatis and Geranium pour Monsieur;


    9) Edmond Roudnitska - Diorissimo, Eau Sauvage and Le Parfum de Therese;


    10) Andy Tauer - L'air du Desert Marocain, Lonestar Memories and Une Rose Chypree;
    Last edited by Bonoanimoes; 19th June 2011 at 10:11 AM.

  2. #2
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    Redneck Perfumisto's Avatar
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    Default Re: Creator and Creation

    In the language of the poker hand, I'm folding on all of these tough trios. Seriously, of the perfumers among these for whom I feel I have some handle on the style, the three cited fragrances are generally very diverse in nature. If anything, they show the breadth of their abilities.

    Had Declaration been the third fragrance for Ellena, I might have seen the pattern in his treatment of woody notes. Perhaps some of the lightness and transparency shows through in those three, but Terre d'Hermes isn't as good of an example of that as the other two, IMO.

    Tauer's boldness is visible in his first two, but I'm unfamiliar with Une Rose Chypree, so can't comment there.

    Duchaufour - the presence of Timbuktu and JXXV in the same list just shows his diversity, IMO. Can't comment on the third.


    Very interesting question!
    * * * *

  3. #3

    Default Re: Creator and Creation

    I think the aldehydic "champagne bubble" openings of the three Chanels might give them away as contemporary Chanel, if not recognisably Ernest Beaux (at least with the current EDTs, not sure about the Parfums) but like Redneck I would find it hard to pick a coherent link or stylistic signature within the other trios that I am familiar with (Ellena, Guerlain, Duchaufor, Robert) or even between New York & Sacrebleu for that mater, both of which I know and love.

    I do think Ellena & Nicolai have recurring 'signature notes' in amongst some of their work, as I'm sure some of the others might, if you lined up the right ones. Not sure if this the answer you're looking for from your post, but an interesting exercise.

  4. #4
    hednic's Avatar
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    Default Re: Creator and Creation

    Below are the ones I have in my collection from their respective perfumer and all nicely represent their style IMO.

    Jean-Claude Ellena - Terre D'Hermes, Angeliques Sous La pluie and Bigarade Concentree
    Bertrand Duchaufour - Traversee du Bosphore and Timbuktu
    Patricia de Nicolaï - New York
    Paul Guerlain - Derby, Habit Rouge
    Guy Robert - Equipage by Hermes
    Ernest Beaux - Bois des Iles, Cuir de Russie
    Francis Kurkdjian - Le Male
    Dominique Ropion -Geranium pour Monsieur
    Edmond Roudnitska - Eau Sauvage

  5. #5

    Default Re: Creator and Creation

    Thank you:

    - Redneck Perfumisto
    - mr. reasonable
    - hednic

    for your valuable feedback !

  6. #6

    Default Re: Creator and Creation

    Quote Originally Posted by Bonoanimoes View Post
    Thank you:

    - Redneck Perfumisto
    - mr. reasonable
    - hednic

    for your valuable feedback !
    I would like to chime in with an invaluable feedback. All these perfumers, except a few ;-) do what You want them to do. I think You are stuck with the weak idea of perfume being an art form, which it is not. By any means - not. Best You could say perfumery is, it is mindless engineering without rules. The only indicator of being successful is the money the useless product makes. This isn't acutally cynical. It is the ground cause for the business to persist. There is way more money in developing a laundry fragrance than in 'fine' fragrance. Especially true for 'niche'.

    I said it would be invaluable.
    Last edited by WildThingy; 19th June 2011 at 09:15 PM.

  7. #7

    Default Re: Creator and Creation

    The only one I might fit together is Tauer - I find his style very recognizable. In most of his scents there's a twangy, heavy, non-fresh citrus ( Une Rose Chypree and L'Air ) or a distinctive smoky, woody-ambery base ( L'Air and Lonestar ). I also find this true in the others of his I've tried; Carillon Pour Un Ange and Incense Rose having the citrus, and Orris and Le Maroc having the smoky, woody amber. Incense Extreme is the odd one out in my experience, but a certain dense, brutally strong woodiness is quite in keeping with his style.

    There's a possibility I might recognize Ernest Beaux from aldehydes, but I'm not sure.

    The others on the list are a testament to perfumer diversity.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Creator and Creation

    Quote Originally Posted by WildThingy View Post
    I would like to chime in with an invaluable feedback. All these perfumers, except a few ;-) do what You want them to do. I think You are stuck with the weak idea of perfume being an art form, which it is not. By any means - not. Best You could say perfumery is, it is mindless engineering without rules. The only indicator of being successful is the money the useless product makes. This isn't acutally cynical. It is the ground cause for the business to persist. There is way more money in developing a laundry fragrance than in 'fine' fragrance. Especially true for 'niche'.

    I said it would be invaluable.
    Thank you for your valuable feedback, very constructive.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Creator and Creation

    Quote Originally Posted by Sugandaraja View Post
    The only one I might fit together is Tauer - I find his style very recognizable. In most of his scents there's a twangy, heavy, non-fresh citrus ( Une Rose Chypree and L'Air ) or a distinctive smoky, woody-ambery base ( L'Air and Lonestar ). I also find this true in the others of his I've tried; Carillon Pour Un Ange and Incense Rose having the citrus, and Orris and Le Maroc having the smoky, woody amber. Incense Extreme is the odd one out in my experience, but a certain dense, brutally strong woodiness is quite in keeping with his style.

    There's a possibility I might recognize Ernest Beaux from aldehydes, but I'm not sure.

    The others on the list are a testament to perfumer diversity.
    Thank you for your feedback, and it is so interesting to realize, how versatile Perfumers can be on this beautiful art that Perfumery is ;-)

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