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  1. #1

    Default Chamade - a lovely Guerlain in the classic french style

    As I have acquired a fair array of new perfumes this year, I am gradually getting to know them all. Yesterday I wore Chamade, and was amazed at just how lovely this perfume is.

    Lots of people hate the initial citrusy burst, but I love it. There is a note that I find really attractive, probably the galbanum. It reminds me of something else, but with my poor scent memory, I cannot put a finger on what it is.

    The dry down of this one is long and complex. It evolves from the slightly green and somewhat harsh initial notes to a languid, thoroughly pleasant floral accord. The notes listed for it vary according to whom you read.

    The list I have compiled is as follows:
    Bergamot, Galbanum, Hyacinth, Aldehydes, Ylang Ylang, Blackcurrant, Cassis, Turkish rose, Lily of the Valley, Jasmine, Lilac Vetiver, Musk, Amber, Iris, Tonka Bean, Vanilla, Benzoin, Peru Balsam


    The blackcurrant, is understated, rather than an in-your-face fruit which overwhelms the other ingredients, in the way that many of the more mainstream fruity mixtures do. Some references also list cassis (the liqueur or the black fruit?)

    I get strong rose and jasmine, as well as a range of delicate basenotes. The EDT lasts surprisingly long on the skin and was still clearly there in the morning.

    I guess being a newer Guerlain, it isn't up there with most people's first loves from this perfume house, but I think it's a lovely composition, complex, deep, subtle and wonderfully rich and feminine.

    Today I'm wearing Chanel 5 and observed to my husband today, that back in my youth I thought there was simply nothing to compare to Chanel. Yet today, I see there are so many wonderfully balanced and totally satisfying perfumes to wear, such as Chamade and of course, my favourite, Vol de Nuit. Chanel is now not my go-to, but rather one of many similarly styled aldehydic florals in my wardrobe.

    Cheers
    LiliB

  2. #2

    Default Re: Chamade - a lovely Guerlain in the classic french style

    Chamade is one of my top Guerlain classics along with L'Heure Bleue, Mitsouko and Jicky.

    I like the EDP the best.
    "No sweet perfume ever tortured me more than this." Desert Rose by Sting and Cheb Mami, Album 1999.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Chamade - a lovely Guerlain in the classic french style

    Quote Originally Posted by Primrose View Post
    Chamade is one of my top Guerlain classics ...
    I like the EDP the best.
    I should sample the EdP at one point. The current extrait did absolutely nothing for me. This is exactly the kind of "green vibe" here that I don't enjoy at all.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Chamade - a lovely Guerlain in the classic french style

    Because of No5 I always thought I could not wear aldehydics, but then found Chamade. For me this is the best fragrance created by Jean Paul Guerlain. I own the edp and the parfum, both actually become more woody florals on me rather than aldehydic.
    DONNA

  5. #5

    Default Re: Chamade - a lovely Guerlain in the classic french style

    Chamade is one of those "spring in a bottle" perfumes to me. It reminds me of plum trees in bloom, and its strong powdery characteristic gives the impression of pollen blowing through the air. I adore it. Of course, the first time I tried it, I was spoiled rotten by Basenoter's sample of vintage parfum. Oh, glorious! It was so much stronger in the first formulation. Recently, I visited Saks and covered my arms in 6-8 fragrances, the names of which I promptly confused and forgot. Hours later, it was the Chamade that smelled so captivating, which I could not remember... Oh, it was a Gurlain! Oh, yeah, it was Chamade. Of course.

    I absolutely love Chamade and Mitsouko. Of their older perfumes, I also like Vol de Nuit, L'Heure Bleue, Jicky, Shalimar, and Apres L'Ondee. Among their later compositions, I like Samsara and the less famous fragrances of Nahema, Mahora, and Purple Fantasy.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Chamade - a lovely Guerlain in the classic french style

    Lots of negative things have been said about Mahora, but I actually like it. It's a bit of a sillage monster, but as a slightly tropical, white flower combination, I think it's actually quite unique. I'm surprised that more people don't like it. I haven't come across purple fantasy at all, in fact I've never heard the name. Mmm one to explore, methinks.

  7. #7

    Default Re: Chamade - a lovely Guerlain in the classic french style

    @ LiliB,

    Please take this in the friendly spirit intended - did you win Tatts Lotto this year?

    I am amazed at the number of fragrances you have been trying and comprehensively writing about.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Chamade - a lovely Guerlain in the classic french style

    Dr Rudi
    Oh I wish!!! No it's just the last fling using disposable income that I have to spend. Won't be going on anymore, since I'm now a retiree and there won't be so much to spend on myself.


    When I take up an interest, I do it with almost an addictive spirit. I have spent roughly $4000 on perfume since February, but fortunately have had a supportive husband who paid for more than half of it. At my stage of life, I figure if I want it, can afford it, then I will have it. These little joys are what you work so hard for.

    It's the same with my attitude to my husband's interest in woodworking. He has a bespoke workshop set up with the best boys toys that we could buy for him. Life is too short to deny oneself the few real pleasures that make us happy.

    After spending years managing a Police District finances, I am clever at managing money, and we have always had money to indulge ourselves with, despite only having pretty ordinary jobs. We have been blessed by having continuous employment, no kids, and a carefully managed day to day living budget. When you spend 30 or 40 years working in jobs that may not make you particularly happy, that balance between working life and home life is so much more important.

    This perfume journey of mine has been a marvellous experience. I have met wonderful people on line, have sampled some of the best that traditional perfumery has to offer, and broadened my horizons enormously. It has been worth every minute it took up and every cent I spent on it.

    Cheers
    Lili

  9. #9

    Default Re: Chamade - a lovely Guerlain in the classic french style

    I'm offered a swap between my Après l'Ondée, 25ml left, and Chamade in edt, same amount of perfume.
    I'm hesitating because I haven't smelt Chamade in a while, I remember liking it then though.
    Luca Turin gave it 5 stars in the 2008 edition of his book but I wonder if it's still as great now. Any opinion ?

  10. #10

    Default Re: Chamade - a lovely Guerlain in the classic french style

    Sorry I cannot help. I bought the edp version a year or so ago and it was still a fabulous fragrance.
    DONNA

  11. #11

    Default Re: Chamade - a lovely Guerlain in the classic french style

    Turin was a touch less excited about Chamade EDT a bit in the 100 perfumes book. Regardless, Apres l'ondee has been dealt a death blow by IFRA, so if your Apres l'ondee is before IFRA (that is, 5 or so years or older), stick to it. You can explore Chamade at your leisure when the occasion comes.

    cacio

  12. #12

    Default Re: Chamade - a lovely Guerlain in the classic french style

    My ALO dates back to October 2010 so maybe not worth keeping; it has always seemed to me that this fragrance was overrated anyway.
    I really should buy Turin and Sanchez's latest book, I don't agree with them all the time but they are quite fun to read.
    Thanks for answering, Donna and cacio !
    Last edited by Astrud; 21st August 2012 at 04:28 PM.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Chamade - a lovely Guerlain in the classic french style

    I thought somebody would say: just hold on to your bottle of ALO !
    Glad nobody hasn't because I'm fed up with people raving about this fragrance.
    Last edited by Astrud; 21st August 2012 at 04:29 PM.

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