wow nice find!
Thread: Vintage finds
I happened to walk by two antique stores in north chicago today (Broadway near Granville metro station), so I entered and found quite a few interesting things. I have no idea if the juice is original, nor do I know if the prices were reasonable. But I decided to buy anyway. See the two pics (somewhat off-focus):
So, I got a Shalimar EdC with a pyramid stopper (70s? i wish I had found Mitsouko, Shalimar is not my favorite, but that will do). Arpege parfum of uncertain vintage. These are still sealed, not sure if it's the original seal (probably not?), while i'd like to smell them, I'm considering keeping them sealed, as they'll have to be shipped back to DC in a couple of months.
Then an empty bottle of crepe de chine; too bad it's empty. The dregs (assuming that's what is left of the perfume) is essentially a sweet, rhummy vanilla-amber. I have read that CdC was an aldehydic floral chypre. Nothing of that left in the bottle, sadly. And finally, Sortilege by Galion parfum. This one with some juice inside. What's left must be the drydown. Sweetish, caramel, amber, but not cloying at all, and surprisingly radiant.
Can anybody comment on any of these old perfumes? (ie how they should smell like?
Does the Arpege have a golden-dark cord wrapped around the neck or is it golden tin-like? However, the color of the jus looks great. I have several different vintage forms and presentations and, honestly, they vary all quite a bit. My feeling is that older is more butch and somewhat reminiscent of Chanel No. 5, whereas a newer (very orangey in color and a black presentation box) is very plush, aldehydic, but also with a very rich animalic base that unites all 1930s Lanvin classics.
Hummmmm Crepe de Chine is definitely an aldehydic floral and rummy amber is not part of the mix. Must have been refilled with something else. Sorry.
I have some 50 year old Arpege. It's aldehydic, but the base is damn civety. Too skanky to wear on humid days.
Thanks for your comments! They make me want to open and smell right away. But as said, I really think I should try to resist - it will definitely be easier to ship the container if a seal is still on.
The thread on my Arpege is dark brown, not very golden, though slightly metallic. It also has some sort of plastic or metal seal, and a little sheet that says that one should first cut the golden thread and then the sealing film with a pen knife. The color of the liquid, as shown in the pic, is more orangey than dark. Given the good state of the box, it must be a more recent vintage. Curiously, the bottom of the box says something about Lanvin agent in Madrid, so this must have been sold there. (Curiously, also the Sortilege bottle came from a Gomez store, must have been the same cache from some Spaniard). We'll see. In any case, I cannot certainly complain if it contains fake liquid. I only paid $35, perhaps too good to be true.
Re: Crepe de Chine - there's really nothing in the bottle, just the incrustation. Either it contained something else, or the incrustations are indeed whatever tiny amount of vanilla the recipe called for, the rest having been used decades ago.
At some point, I may stop by the stores again. There were a couple of other small bottles that I may risk. there was a full Chanel No. 5 EDC for $20 (fake? for the price...). And a Moment supreme by Patou (70s, I'd say, from the fonts on the bottle). Then something by Doret (? don't remember the name exactly) and a Juliette parfum NYC.
If you say so, Larimar, then it's a must. I'll make sure I'll go back one weekend over the next two months, before I leave. Unless some other BNer will beat me to it, Moment supreme should still be there waiting. (And perhaps also the little umbrella Mitsouko bottle, with just a tiny bit of liquid in it - but I got to smell it, and it was heavenly, dark and sweet at the same time... But there was no price, the guy is supposed to call me with a quote).
Testing Sortilege again. I have no clue whether the substance in the bottle is original or not (though I don't see why it shouldn't). As said, what's there seems to have lost most of the top and the florals - I understand Sortilege was an aldehydic floral in the No 5 manner. It is now a sandalwoody ambery drydown. When applied and smelled close-by, there are strange notes of old books and paper, strange but not bad. Then the sandalwood becomes more radiant, though the old book vibe never goes away. Excellent, and regrettably I don't think I've smelled a similar drydown in recent perfumes.
I love Sortilege. I just discovered it on a blind buy (vintage parfum). It really is gorgeous. The dry down is just as you described. And yes...there is a book vibe, though I never would have thought of that on my own. The floral reminds me of a cross between Joy and No. 5. A certain BN-er has some for sale (not me). PM me if you'd like and I can point you in the right direction.
Wow, a cross of No. 5 and Joy, that's saying quite something! Too bad I don't have that anymore. Perhaps the perfume is really old and it has evaporated. The remains are very dark in color too.
I went back to the stores. Regrettably, Larimar's suggested Moment supreme wasn't there anymore (any stealthy Chicago BNer?). So I got two Chanel No.5, an EdC and a mostly used bottle of parfum. No clue of the vintage or whether they are fake or not:
Any comment from the pic of the bottles/boxes? I'm no expert on no.5.
The EdC smells gorgeous, similar to the EdT but somewhat fuller and richer. Of course, it lasts even less than the current EdT, which means it's gone on me in no time. The parfum, on application, smells quite different. It's much crisper, very soapy and bright. But then it disappears on my skin. No florals, no nothing, to the point that I think it's either a fake (but with a great top) or something's going on. Did I apply too little? Perhaps. I've put some on paper, and tomorrow I'll check again.
While there, I was also tempted to buy two unknowns to me, a Lentheric Miracle mini and a (cute) box by a Jean Doret with three things. They're probably cheapos, but I have to test them on the skin.
A pity, cacio! In 'fresh' condition this would be stunning and VERY hard to get! Enjoy your other finds!
Great find and Thanks for sharing Cacio!!!
Thanks! I've put some more of the liquid in the no 5 parfum bottle on my wrist this morning. Definitely not what it should be. It starts with a good, crisp soapiness, but without the rich swoon you get with recent edt, edps (and the edcs I found). On paper, this remains crisp for a long time, but on my wrist, it disappears after a couple of hours, leaving just a faint old books note. So there's something off for sure (I noticed this old books note also in a vintage sortilege I had bought at the same store), and it may be also altogether fake.
I quickly tried the mysterious Lentheric Miracle, interesting floral top, then nothing special, but I have to reexamine.
I saw an antique jewelery store in Bucktown (Chicago), and it had a few perfumes. This time, I bought them all, just in case another Chicagoan gets there first. The whole ($250) haul:
There are two Joy (parfums?), sealed (crossing fingers. One is a dark colored bottle, even better), a Diorissimo of uncertain vintage and concentration (does anybody have any ideas?), a dior Eau Fraiche in a very cute bottle, Lanvin My sin (Eau de?), and a big Tabu edc. (At the store, there was also a big Houbigant Chantilly bottle, which I left there).
The sealed ones will have to wait for Chicago to be opened. I just tried Tabu, which smells excellent. Not as sharp as the current cheap stuff, but a smooth leather with benzoin, sort of like a library of old leather bound books.
I think you might have paid a fair bit for them, but the Diorissimo pure parfum is stunning in this vintage (ca. 80s). The Dior eau fraiche is about 10ml, right? Thats older (60s/70s), but can be found here and there.
Love the Joy presentations too.
Nice finds... and in rather great condition (evaporation notwithstanding). Congrats cacio.
Wow! I think they are well stored - they look rather pristine. I'd love to smell vintage My Sin & Diorissimo. Congrats on your find!
Last edited by Diamondflame; 23rd October 2011 at 06:15 AM.
Thanks for your comments!
Ooh, so that's a parfum Diorissimo! Stroke of luck, I'd say. Well, I couldn't wait and just applied to my arm. Yes, you're right, absolutely stunning - now I see what the fuss was about. A true muguet, natural and pleasant, but at the same time very rich and complex, and projecting quite a bit. On a different planet from the shrill stuff I smelled last year at Saks.
I have no clue when it comes to prices, and I assume these stores have few clues either. They specialize in jewelery and probably care more about the bottle than to the content. I don't remember how much I paid for what, I only have the list, but the most expensive item was $65, and I think it was the eau fraiche (nicer bottle), then I see a $45 and a $38, I think I remember the $38 was the diorissimo (a steal). The two Joys were $25, as was the 200ml Tabu.
The eau fraiche is listed as 2 fl oz on the bottle (no indication on the box). The My sin is also 2 fl oz.
thanks again for the comments! you've made my day (or better, my night...)
Yes, absolutely lovely! Congratulations! Yes, later there was an Eau de Lanvin for all the classics. The Joys definitely look like the extraits... same presentations as for 1000. Have fun and do report back on your findings, please!
Very nice. I know a lot of people who would have paid 1/2 of what you did for the whole lot, to get their hands on *just* the Diorissimo. Its one of the most striking and vivid portraits of lily-of-the-valley ever.
Cherish it and use it in good health
Indeed, I feel as if in a grassy, dewy muguet field right now...
As a newbie, this is my first clear example of what IFRA and Dior's neglect can do.
I'm starting to open my sealed vintage stuff. First was My Sin Eau de Lanvin, an "eau" version (edt, edc?) of the more famous perfume. It has such a wonderful retro feel that I can see why it was discontinued long ago.
It opens with a soapy floral blast, a la Chanel no 5, but with a wonderful floral-oily note (narcissus?). When this subsides, the heart is a powdery floral dominated by (now banned) heliotropin, as clean as it gets, but with some barely perceptible leathery and musky tones. Over time, the civet comes out in full force, turning the perfume into a somewhat dirty, skin-like, slightly sleazy thing closer to its name. Great.
This on paper. On skin (my skin at least) the oily florals disappear in seconds, and the movie is played at the speed of light. Either I need to use much more, or simply one needs the parfum concentration (which I read elsewhere is more plush still).
Opened another (little) bottle of my vintage finds: Joy parfum of uncertain vintage, but luckily, well preserved. Once again, what a wonder!. Upon lifting stopper, out comes a huge, indolic jasmine blast. This alone makes you shed a few tears for IFRA's ban. A couple of drops on skin and out comes a big, clean, green rose. The two start singing a duet. At times, you hear them together, at times only one. And slowly you also realize that there are also supporting players that one cannot properly distinguish; perhaps some tuberose, some ylang ylang? At some point, the nose is hit by a wonderful blast of civet that gives oomph to the main players. The melody's been going on for an hour now, but I couldn't wait for the drydown to report.
As a newcomer, this is one of my first vintage perfumes. The effect of smelling this (and vintage Diorissimo) for the first time is like setting foot on a new planet. Yes, one reads of what's been lost etc etc; but the actual smelling makes you realize how true all these laments are. Yes, they were really fantastic things, and are no more.
Over the weekend, I did spray Joy edp at the store; I dont know if it's the post-jasmine reformulation or not. There's still jasmine, and there's still civet, and it is excellent. But the parfum is much more of everything. Somebody should please stop by rue Castiglione and report on the reformulated rose soliflore ...
Thank you cacio for sharing your impressions! I have not been able to try the real vintage Joy parfum myself, but had a sample of a newer (but not the very new you are referring to) and it wasn't my style... too beautiful, too pretty, but you know the civet often escapes me and my perception and it all smells 'perfectly alright' to me.
The jasmine is very indolic, and there is a civet blast, so this is not the usual powdery floral. still, it's a shamelessly pretty floral. I'm now smelling what's there after a full night sleep. Still going strong - on skin, the civet has taken over, with just a hint of flowers. On cloth, there are still huge wafts of civety jasmine.
Time to open another bottle from the haul. Arpege parfum unknown vintage. First of all, the usual newbie mistake. I applied force to pry open the stopper, and I shattered it. Broken glass, of course, cuts fingers like a knife. Stiptic pen and band aids helped stopped the bleeding. Then the BN search for "stuck stopper" I should have done before, 10 minutes in the refrigerator, and the thing came out right away. Lesson learnt.
As for the smell. As some perfumes on me, extremely light. I suspect a few topnotes have turned. But there are still some aldehydes, over a luminous woody floral. It remains rather light (despite the fact that I sprayed it). Arm to arm compared to the new edt. The edt is darker, woodier, spicier, the vintage parfum remains crisper and lighter. Very enjoyable. However, it made less of an impression on me than Diorissimo or Joy, perhaps because the style (woody floral) hasn't disappeared, so there's less of a novelty effect. Or then, despite my liking for leathers and the like, I am in reality a flower person getting all dreamy at Diorissimo's muguet or Joy's jasmine.
Sorry cacio for your mishap! Honestly, your description of Arpege sort of confuses me... 'light', 'crisp'.... hmmmmm!
I would only dab the Lanvin classics (extrait) as they are very dense. I have said further up in the thread that all my Arpeges vary quite a bit. Could you detect an animalic base later? The stopper to your bottle is old, but the jus you are describing sounds much newer.