Quick Thoughts: Invasion Barbare, 1725, and Sartorial

[jathanas]

I'm a fan of the new fougeres. I remember my fascination as a kid when I first smelled dad's bottles of Paco and Azzaro. IB, 1725, and Sartorial evolve and modernize the concept of the fougere.

I own all 3, and have worn them enough to be able to contrast their traits.

1725: This was the first one I bought. I remember saying at the time that 1725 is the love child of L'Eau dHiver, and Taste of Heaven. If you don't like powdery, skip it. I for one very much enjoy its soft nature, and the way it seamlessy merges oriental accords in a fougere. More of an evening fragrance for me, and I'd be happier to wear it in the cooler months.

Sartorial: The conservative packaging, and dandy marketing is a misnomer. This is the most modern of the 3, I find it to be very edgy. There's an ozonic, metallic heart, that I find cold and industrial. I struggled with this facet for a time, but find it is better when I apply less. The overall experience is fantastic, and this one can be worn in any occasion, or season.

Invasion Barbare: Am I saving the best for last? IB is the most complex of the lot IMHO. Beautifully blended, and the most classically inspired of the 3. It is easy to link IB with the 70s fougere classics. It is of course sweeter, and not animalic, as you'd expect of a modern fougere. There is so much richness to be enjoyed in the opening, the cardamom-violet-lavender have been seamlessy blended. Amazing. It get's sweeter in the heart, but not powdery. I couldn't see myself wearing anything else in a formal occasion.

[hednic]

Have 1725 and have tried Invasion Barbare several times and like them both.

[koala501]

I'm a big fan too and have all three of these.

I find Satorial and IB quite similar though Satorial has, to me, a slightly darker feel to it and the beeswax gives it more warmth. 1725 is also superb. When I need to dress smart these guys are on the front line for me.

Every once in a while though I feel I have to break out the big guns with Azzaro or Rive gauche to give me a bit more 'rough'

[volley2]

I have smelled all three. My favorite is IB then 1725 then Sartorial. IB is indeed gorgeous. I love most especially the opening and the basenotes. Invasion Barbare is indeed a modern fougere. Sartorial on the other hand, almost has an old school barbershop vibe.

[jathanas]

Have 1725 and have tried Invasion Barbare several times and like them both.

I'd be interested to read what you think of Sartorial when you get to sniffing it.

I'm a big fan too and have all three of these.

I find Satorial and IB quite similar though Satorial has, to me, a slightly darker feel to it and the beeswax gives it more warmth. 1725 is also superb. When I need to dress smart these guys are on the front line for me.

Every once in a while though I feel I have to break out the big guns with Azzaro or Rive gauche to give me a bit more 'rough'

LOL Azzaro and Rive Gauche, sometimes a guy needs to go "old school".

I have smelled all three. My favorite is IB then 1725 then Sartorial. IB is indeed gorgeous. I love most especially the opening and the basenotes. Invasion Barbare is indeed a modern fougere. Sartorial on the other hand, almost has an old school barbershop vibe.

It's interesting that I find Sartorial to have the most modern & edgy facets of the 3.

[StylinLA]

I couldn't wrap my nose around IB. Sartorial I love. I find it a very warm scent. I guess the beeswax over rides the metallic notes to me. But as I think about, I am mentally recognizing the metallic notes. Interesting.

[jathanas]

I couldn't wrap my nose around IB. Sartorial I love. I find it a very warm scent. I guess the beeswax over rides the metallic notes to me. But as I think about, I am mentally recognizing the metallic notes. Interesting.

Funny how we each perceive things. When I wear Sartorial I have to work to find the beeswax, because that ozonic-metallic accord dominates.

[Buysblind]

I agree with your description of Sartorial other than the 'modern' part...it felt very old school to me (but really nice, and well done).

As far as I'm concerned, it doesn't get much better than IB. It evolves so much, and each stage is truly beautiful.

1725 I have not tried.

[jathanas]

I agree with your description of Sartorial other than the 'modern' part...it felt very old school to me (but really nice, and well done).

As far as I'm concerned, it doesn't get much better than IB. It evolves so much, and each stage is truly beautiful.

1725 I have not tried.

Thanks Buysblind, I wonder how much the packaging and marketing of Sartorial prevents people perceiving it as modern? That aside, its awesome!

[StylinLA]

Thanks Buysblind, I wonder how much the packaging and marketing of Sartorial prevents people perceiving it as modern? That aside, its awesome!

I think it's an excellent scent. Probably in my top five with great longevity. But I think for some guys, anything in the fougere range, or from Pens is scary.

[Buysblind]

Thanks Buysblind, I wonder how much the packaging and marketing of Sartorial prevents people perceiving it as modern? That aside, its awesome!

It certainly doesn't help. I wonder how my initial reaction would have differed had I not already seen the box and bottle. I hate to say it, but I think it influenced my perception quite a bit.

[jathanas]

... I think for some guys, anything in the fougere range, or from Pens is scary.

Word!

In my mind its so far away from the dandified product they're projecting it to be. It is classically inspired but it is very atypical of a Pens release.

[mr. reasonable]

1725 is a favourite and I do intend to buy Invasion Barbare next time I get around to putting order in with LS.

It's interesting to hear how different people have responded to the image of Sartorial. I saw all the Duchaufor sniffing his way round a cutting room hype and approached it with extreme caution, to be honest - just sounded like a gimmick to me. I have tried it half a dozen times and of the three it's the one I can't connect with it all.

[jathanas]

1725 is a favourite and I do intend to buy Invasion Barbare next time I get around to putting order in with LS.

It's interesting to hear how different people have responded to the image of Sartorial. I saw all the Duchaufor sniffing his way round a cutting room hype and approached it with extreme caution, to be honest - just sounded like a gimmick to me. I have tried it half a dozen times and of the three it's the one I can't connect with it all.

Knowing we share a few likes I'd have guessed that IB would've been a home-run w' you, and funnily enough I'd have picked Sartorial as the one that might have missed.

[mr. reasonable]

Yup - mr. predictable

Just wondering if Nicolai Pour Homme enters into this general area for any of you guys? It's not as 'modern' but I don't see it as straight up old school, either.

[jathanas]

I've a soft spot for Nicolai pour Homme and don't consider it stodgy in any way. My only criticism would be that there are times when the lavender becomes a bit too mentholated, harsh? Not a good word for it.

Interesting that it didn't come to mind, one of the beauties I often overlook.

[Bonoanimoes]

IB, IB and IB!

[hedonist222]

Very interesting read. Any more comparisons between the three please.

[alfarom]

IMO Sartorial has both an old-school vibe and a modern feel. It's like Duchafour took an original formula and digitally "remixed" it. Sort of cold, a times aseptic, yet incredibly likeable. A fougere for androids.

1725 is a personal favorite. I perceive it as a sort of high definition picture of a Menardo's creation. Extremely detailed and refined.

IB has been on my test list from a while but haven't had yet the chance to test it...arrrgh.

[jathanas]

IMO Sartorial has both an old-school vibe and a modern feel. It's like Duchafour took an original formula and digitally "remixed" it. Sort of cold, a times aseptic, yet incredibly likeable. A fougere for androids.

1725 is a personal favorite. I perceive it as a sort of high definition picture of a Menardo's creation. Extremely detailed and refined.

IB has been on my test list from a while but haven't had yet the chance to test it...arrrgh.

Brilliant and very enjoyable appraisals on 1725 and Sartorial. Thanks

[boosh]

I have a bottle of both 1725 and Sartorial and a decant of IB on the way. I'm sure you're well aware of how much I am loving this genre at the moment.

I think my favourite might actually be 1725, it is really magical, warm, sweet and very inviting. I really like the powder on this one and find it easily the most wearable of the three for a 22 year old.

Sartorial is everything one might expect from a new-age fougere by Penhaligon's. It is a great release, I particularly like how this one consistently references the old-skool fougeres. It comes off as a bit sharp in the top notes at first which was a little off-putting to me to begin with, once these are settled they work well with the heart and base. I'd say this one would probably be the most polarising of the three, I think people are either going to love it or hate it, I can imagine this may become grating to some people.

I'm still waiting for my IB decant. I remember being extremely disappointed by this one at first. I could just smell a better version of Le Male (I know, I know). Luckily for me (unluckily for my wallet) the classic fougere undertones appeared shortly after and were literally breathtaking. I remember literally standing up from my seat with my mouth open in amazement. IB is a masterpiece and as close to a holy-grail as I have come.

EDIT: Yes, I said that 1725 was my favourite. Then I said that IB was my holy-grail. I am deeply in love with both of these fragrances All three are worth owning in my opinion.

[jathanas]

Thanks Boosh.

We agree Sartorial is surely the most love/hate proposition of the 3. I was very skeptical about its coldness, but I can deal with it now. In my mind its very atypical for a Pens, so I needed to adjust my view of it.

1725 is a charmer, so smooth in every way. IB, well I think it is very well placed to become a future classic.

[Diamondflame]

I have yet to smell Sartorial but I wear the other 2. 1725 is indeed warm & kinda fuzzy which makes it a natural charmer. Invasion Barbare has a mildly astringent, laundered vibe about it which gives it a cleaner, more modern feel. I suppose if 1725 is smooth-talking Casanova, then IB must be the impeccably groomed Agent 007 himself.

[boosh]

I suppose if 1725 is smooth-talking Casanova, then IB must be the impeccably groomed Agent 007 himself.

Yeah, I'm feeling that. Where's the "what would 007 wear?" thread when you need it?

[hobbes22]

I need to test all of these, you've all made them sound so interesting and wonderful. Are there any other scents that are similar to these three?

[Nersh]

As of today I won all three of these gems. (Thx Kevin for Sartorial) .... IB being my favorite. Im going to wear Sartorial today but all of these are very different. I suppose they should be in the category but so different.

[Primrose]

Modern fougeres?

I enjoy all three but find only Sartorial bottle-worthy. I can't afford IB.

[alfarom]

I need to test all of these, you've all made them sound so interesting and wonderful. Are there any other scents that are similar to these three?

Lumiere Noir Pour Homme is also another great example of a modern spicy-fougere. Eloge Du Traitre is built on a very classic structure (aromatic fougere a-la Yatagan) but has a modern twist.

[cosmopolit]

All three are great, but IB is the only nugére I need. It really is wonderful.

1725 for those days when you put on the fancy waistcoat, but that is infrequently for me these days! Sartorial is also very good.

[hobbes22]

Lumiere Noir Pour Homme is also another great example of a modern spicy-fougere. Eloge Du Traitre is built on a very classic structure (aromatic fougere a-la Yatagan) but has a modern twist.

Ahh yes, I've been reading up on Lumiere Noir Pour Homme, sounds very intriguing. I saw a bottle at a good price on the marketplace last night, but it was snatched up right away. Just as well, I should probably try it first.

How would you rate Lumier Noir PH against 1725 and Sartorial (since you haven't tested IB yet)?

[alfarom]

Ahh yes, I've been reading up on Lumiere Noir Pour Homme, sounds very intriguing. I saw a bottle at a good price on the marketplace last night, but it was snatched up right away. Just as well, I should probably try it first.

How would you rate Lumier Noir PH against 1725 and Sartorial (since you haven't tested IB yet)?

This is obviously very personal but not being myself among the biggest fans of the rose I'd say is my least favorite. Don't get me wrong, this an outstanding composition and it's actually one of the few "rose-evident" fragrances I can personally wear but when it comes to preference I stuck with Sartorial or 1725. Also, they're not really comparable being Sartorial a classic fougere, LMPH a spicy fougere and 1725 a fougere with a gourmandic twist.

note: consider that I'm hyper-sensitive to rose. A small amount can smell like a soliflore to me LOL

[cacio]

My ranking would be IB, 1725, and distant last Sartorial. I dislike Sartorial because to me is smells clean modern metallic, a genre I hate. I can see it's the best clean modern metallic around, and intelligently weaved around a fougere structure rather than a sharp citrusy nonentity, and the warm clothes/warm iron tailor atmosphere is fun and realistic. It's also good that Penhaligon is trying to move out of its usual uninspiring style. But still, not my thing. IB is wonderfully rich and fuzzy, to me almost more a woody-spicy than a fougere. 1725 is very classic and fresher.

I also agree that Lumiere ph is in the set. I like it but I'm not a enough of a fan for a bottle. Unlike alpharom, I actually think that the rose is too subdued and the patchouli too prominent (though it's not a strong patchouli). It has a dusty and subdued feel, calm in the manner of most of Kurkdjian's scents. In the masculine spicy rose department, I prefer 1876, Cabaret (which is more rosy), or some of the Rosine iterations (eg Rose d'homme).

cacio

[dmarino67]

I get an old school vibe from Sartoriale also but not in a negative way though. I own and love 1725. It lasts a long time but the projection is moderate.

For those that have tried IB, how well does it project and last - especially compared to 1725. I need to get a sample of this soon.

[jathanas]

Thanks all for your comments and thoughts. This thread will be a good resource for fragheads in the future.

It never occurred to me to include Lumiere Noir in the group. I own a full bottle and wouldn't place it as a fougere.

To answer dmarino's question about IB's projection and longevity, I'd have to say that its on par with 1725 i.e. great longevity with moderate projection.

[Dorje123]

Also check out Versace Black Jeans... It's discontinued but not hard to find... and very inexpensive, it's a great deal for the $. The drydown is very similar to IB, but w/o the cardamon, which is a good thing IMO.

[dmarino67]

Thanks. I'll have get a sample soon.

Thanks all for your comments and thoughts. This thread will be a good resource for fragheads in the future.

It never occurred to me to include Lumiere Noir in the group. I own a full bottle and wouldn't place it as a fougere.

To answer dmarino's question about IB's projection and longevity, I'd have to say that its on par with 1725 i.e. great longevity with moderate projection.

[L'Aventurier]

IB, IB and IB!

Yes, yes and yes!

I love Invasion Barbare. I'm living in Japan right now and for whatever reason I didn't bring it with me. It's the fragrance I miss the most from my collection and the closest thing to a holy grail that I've found. Mind you, it's not that it's the best fragrance I've ever smelled, but more that it just clicks so well with me.

[cpp214]

Sorry to bump an old thread, but having recently tested all 3 of these scents,
I felt it might be useful to share some of my experiences with anyone thinking
of trying these scents.

I think all three obviously share a lot in common. However, I think each scent
is unique enough in its own way to warrant a place in your wardrobe.

If I had to rank them, I would give top honors to Invasion Barbare, by a pretty clear
margin, although 1725 would be a close 2nd. In terms of longevity, projection, overall
smell and price, I would rank them:

Longevity
1--Invasion Barbare (10 to 12 hours)
2--HdP 1725 (8 to 10 hours)
3--Sartorial (5 to 7 hours)

Projection
1--Invasion Barbare
2--1725
3--Sartorial

Overall smell
1--Invasion Barbare
2--1725
3--Sartorial

Price point
1--Sartorial--1.7oz for $75
2--1725--2.0oz for $125
3--Invasion Barbare--2.0oz for $250

Overall ranking:

1--Invasion Barbare 10/10 (in spite of its price)
2--1725 9/10
3--Sartorial 8.5/10

I will say this also...I sampled 1725 after sampling Invasion Barbare.
If price is important, and for most of us it is, I would tell those on a tight
budget to go with 1725 if the Invasion Barbare is too dear.
Invasion Barbare is still the clear winner to me, but 1725 is very close.
If I had sampled 1725 first, who knows? Maybe I would prefer it to IB, but
I doubt it.

Sartorial is an excellent fragrance in its own right. The only reason it's
not right up there with the other 2 for me is due to its sketchy longevity and
projection on my skin. Others may have better luck, obviously, and Sartorial
is also an EDT whereas IB and 1725 are EDP's. I also find Sartorial's development
and drydown more linear and uninteresting than the other two.

Three excellent "nu-geres." You can't go wrong with any of them really.
If you love this genre, I'd highly recommend getting small spray decants of
all 3 and see which you like best.

[CityFan21]

Yes, yes and yes!

I love Invasion Barbare. I'm living in Japan right now and for whatever reason I didn't bring it with me. It's the fragrance I miss the most from my collection and the closest thing to a holy grail that I've found. Mind you, it's not that it's the best fragrance I've ever smelled, but more that it just clicks so well with me.

I'm glad you found something you truly enjoy with Invasion Barbare! Unfortunately, I've tested it several times and I guess I just don't understand it. To me, all I get out of it is the fizzy smell of sparkling water.

[MonkeyBars]

I'm glad you found something you truly enjoy with Invasion Barbare! Unfortunately, I've tested it several times and I guess I just don't understand it. To me, all I get out of it is the fizzy smell of sparkling water.

Invasion Perrière

[Jack Hunter]

Sartorial is complex in the opening but loses it in the basenotes and becomes like a lot of fragrances with a sweet woody base. Invasion Barbare is sheer quality and really well balanced and I like how the violet note constantly weaves in and out of the sent even when the woods appear you can detect it.

1725 opens with a lemony grapefruit fresh spicyness with a touch of licorice and it drysdown to a soft vanille base. Its a simple fragrance done to perfection.

Out of the three Invasion Barbare is the superior fragrance as the sheer quality and complexity just shines through. All though are worthy.