Code of Conduct
Results 1 to 7 of 7
  1. #1

    Default The original Tabac Blond - vintage Tabac Blond? Reformulations?

    Well, now then, let me say two things first. I kindly got a generous sample of a BN friend and knowing the original En Avion (I started a thread for this a few months ago) I can say that this must be the original Tabac Blond.
    First off, The Perfumed Court does not sell the original Tabac Blond, which they call Vintage Tabac Blond, because it is the newly interpreted past 1987/88, when Ales and Fraysse as nose took over and newly interpreted the classics Tabac Blond and En Avion (and others?). Do you see my wording? Original and Newly interpreted? In my opinion and experience there do not exist reformulations for Tabac Blond and En Avion.
    Also, forget the crap 'only one drop is needed' it is that strong... nonsense, it is so very much chypré in style and I mean old-fashionedly in the style of the 1920/30s and all these chypré classics were redux in their heart and base but lingered on for a long time. The idea of the time was refinement.
    A comparison with the great Lanvin classics is inevitable. It is immediately clear when you put on some original Tabac Blond how rich of animalics it is. First off the gate, I could see for the first time why it got mentioned in the same sentence with Knize Ten. The initial blast of the original Tabac Blond clearly reminded me of it. Next step soon followed is the wealth of animalics that become obvious.
    I can not stress enough how splendid the great Lanvin classics are (all so rich with animalics in their base). If you took Rumeur, Scandal and My Sin minus the sweetness from the florals you would be indeed very close in feel to the original Tabac Blond as if they all together were variations on a theme. While the first two - Rumeur and Scandal - are very hard to come by these days, a lot of My Sin can be had. Having said this, I can also say that quality, preservation, condition vary considerably. So, scoring a potentially old My Sin, sealed in box with very little evaporation would be my aim, in case you consider such an addition to your wardrobe.
    The newly interpreted Tabac Blond has very little to do with the original and it clearly lacks the animalic richness. It is only, while these extraits progress through their hearts that they slightly approach each other.
    Speaking of similarities in the fragrance's heart... that is where vintage Habanita comes in (I only have the EdT in that original stunning Lalique bottle)... they share a tobacco/cigarette note that I guess is synthetic and familiar from other creations, too, but I have no idea what it is.
    My conclusion is that the original Tabac Bond takes its smoking vibe from a completely different source of note(s) (that I only know from vintage fragrances - unavailable today?) than the newly interpreted today and that is also why these two versions differ considerably (plus the animalics that are unavailable today and very much the 'vintage smell' in general). Staying with the Habanita comparison for another short while - Tabac Blond is refined and Habanita is 'cheap' in comparison, but I do not mean it in a derogative way. The idea is that Tabac Blond would be worn by a lady and Habanita by a girl. Caron was the epitome and maxime of luxury, which was also reflected in price.

    In a nutshell, IMO no such thing as a 'vintage Tabac Blond' exists, but only an original and newly interpreted as clearly stated by Caron.

  2. #2

    Default Re: The original Tabac Blond - vintage Tabac Blond? Reformulations?

    Wow, seriously guys. 315 views and no replies to this fascinating post! Thank you for taking the time to write up your fantastic take on the subject. I've heard from many that vintage Tabac Blond smells a bit smokier than today's version and I can for a fact state that vintage En Avion parfum smells 99% like today's version. The only difference is in the vintage, the nitro musks are obvious but then the base is almost identical.

  3. #3

    Default Re: The original Tabac Blond - vintage Tabac Blond? Reformulations?

    Oh thank you, scent! How nice of you to chime in! It is so good to have you and your vast experience back!

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Washington, DC
    Posts
    8,569
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Re: The original Tabac Blond - vintage Tabac Blond? Reformulations?

    I had read this post with great attention because I've always been fascinated by the Caron, but have never smelled the true vintages. The issue keeps popping up in our threads. Larimar loves many of the current Carons, while the Turin-Sanchez duo does not (though, to be fair, TS review the EDT, not the parfums). It was interesting to read this comment on really old vintage versus post-Fraysse. Larimar's description corresponds to TS's lamented old TB. Larimar seems to like also the new, different scent developed by Fraysse, while TS clearly don't like the style. I need to go back and reexamine my recent TB extrait. I wore perhaps too little. The top was wonderful, but after 15 mins, simply too sweet, no smoke.

    Larimar seems to concur with TS that Narcisse Noir is gone. TS also think that En Avion (at least the lower oncentrations) are gone. But Larimar's and Scent's insistence that it is still its wonderful self in parfum makes me want to go buy it at some point ...

    I don't think though that the animalics are now banned. IFRA has banned many things, but as far as I know, there are plenty of animalics still around (in fact, I occasionally get some from my Nuit de Noel edt). This must clearly be Fraysse's decision - he doesn't like challenging scents, so smoke and animalics are out.

    cacio

  5. #5

    Default Re: The original Tabac Blond - vintage Tabac Blond? Reformulations?

    Thanks cacio for summing it up so nicely!
    Well, however much I like LT's reviews, way with words and wit (I agree very often with him), my main complaint with the great and helpful Guide is that it usually does not state what concentration, vintage etc. they had at hand (Narcisse Noir is an exception as it was stated to be an EdT concentration).
    Ad Narcisse Noir ) The vintage extrait I have (not terribly old, but consequently very well preserved) is very special and I'd say there is nothing like it. Unfortunately, I used up my sample of the current extrait and I think Diamondflame's recent review sums it up perfectly. That is exactly how I felt when sampling twice from my vial. Still, I think that Narcisse Noir (possibly in its vintage form too) can not live up to the vivid pictures and rich imagination people have when trying it. It is not 'noir' and 'wicked' enough to my own perception. Its strange (in the best sense here) vibe is rather quiet on me (and suprisingly short-lived BTW - I saw this confirmed in one or two MakeupAlley reviews). The femme fatale wearing Narcisse Noir would have you under her spell not by mere passing by, but after you have come closer and been allured by her eyes, her lips, her words whispered and the haunting smell of Narcisse Noir. That is my idea of it!
    Ad animalics ) I do not think that the current En Avion and Tabac Blond are free of animalics. I think there is plenty of modern musk in En Avion and whatever there is in Tabac Blond (ambergris would be my guess? Castoreum?).
    cacio, I think you would be rather surprised to find out yourself that the original Tabac Blond was not terribly smoky either. The original Tabac Blond was FIRST a very classicly tailored chypré, SECOND an absolutely stunning and compelling mix and load of animalics and THIRD smoky. I think much of its infamous reputation comes from a dry, very animalic and rather free of florals mix that must have been a revolution at its time (1919).

  6. #6

    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Washington, DC
    Posts
    8,569
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Re: The original Tabac Blond - vintage Tabac Blond? Reformulations?

    Thanks for the description!

    Re TS's book, I think that the rule is that they review the lower concentration, not the parfum, except where specifically indicated (such as in Chanel no 5 and Joy, where there are different reviews). This can be problematic for houses like Guerlain, Caron, or even chanel, where different concentrations can be signficantly different.

    cacio

  7. #7

    Default Re: The original Tabac Blond - vintage Tabac Blond? Reformulations?

    The lack of responses could be that the original post is hard to understand. What do you mean by "no such thing as a 'vintage Tabac Blond' exists"? Was the old version different or not? That's what people mean by vintage. You say "In my opinion and experience there do not exist reformulations for Tabac Blond ..." But then later you say (as far as I can guess) that different ingredients were used later. So is that a reformulation or not?

    You say "forget the crap 'only one drop is needed' it is that strong... nonsense, it is so very much chypré in style and I mean old-fashionedly in the style of the 1920/30s and all these chypré classics were redux in their heart and base but lingered on for a long time. The idea of the time was refinement." Redux means "brought back, resurgent." What was brought back or resurgent? I also don't know what old-fashionedly in the style of the 1920/30s means. I thought perfumes back then were strong. So in the end ... Was Tabac Blond strong or not? I would love a straightforward answer.

    I'm confused by your statement "knowing the original En Avion ... I can say that this must be the original Tabac Blond". You mean it's the same fragrance that went through a name change? Since I'm not familiar with En Avion or any of the Lanvins you mention, I have no idea.

    Ultimately, I just don't understand your distinction between Original and Newly interpreted and Vintage and Reformulated and I'm very confused as to which is which, which smells like what, what to look for, and what to buy. Were I to put in an order at The Perfumed Court, what would I be getting?

    BTW, the only time I've smelled Tabac Blond was at the Osmotheque in Versailles. Original? Vintage? Reformulated? Resurrected? It was only passed out on paper strips so it was hard to get a good read.

Similar Threads

  1. Tabac Blond, ( Roja Dove/Harrod´s ) Original Formula.
    By david in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 17th November 2012, 11:39 PM
  2. Which Lutens is similar to vintage Tabac Blond ?
    By david in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 29th January 2011, 02:24 PM
  3. Vintage Tabac Blond: HOLY SMOKES!
    By YouCanCallMeMo in forum Female Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 22nd September 2009, 10:37 PM
  4. buying vintage frags especially Caron Tabac Blond!
    By czesc in forum Female Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 2nd March 2006, 11:08 AM
  5. tabac blond
    By in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 1st January 1970, 01:00 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •