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  1. #1

    Default Article: Non-IFRA-compliant fragrance on the market


  2. #2

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    Hooray ! ~ So it seems that there are still some brave perfumers out there, willing to bend/break the rules. )

    The only down side is now having to suffer the consequences. (I feel for them !)
    I wonder what those consequences will be exactly ???

  3. #3

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    IFRA can certainly give you bad PR, but as far as I know IFRA has no legal power to stop anyone from doing anything. I suppose they could bring a lawsuit in international court, but I suspect the court has better things to do.

  4. #4

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    I wonder what it is?

  5. #5

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    Good for them. Hopefully other perfumers will follow.

  6. #6

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    If only more had the guts for disobedience for this 'industry-driven nonsense'...

  7. #7

    Default Re: Article: Non-IFRA-compliant fragrance on the market

    Yeah which perfume is it.

    for swap/sale:





  8. #8
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    Civil disobedience! Now available in the handy 3.4 oz bottle.

  9. #9

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    I always find it odd when I see either calamus or costus root listed in scents, as both of those are IFRA prohibited. Of course, there may be some synthetic fascimile that I'm not aware of that is allowed.

    I suppose Hermes' Santal Massoia is a contender, too, as massoia bark is completely prohibited.

    Would love to know what scent it is. I'm curious if the house/designer can be held responsible at all or if all responsibility would lie with the perfumer and his/her parent company, seeing as most houses/designers don't own (and presumably don't even know) the formula for the scents in their name.

  10. #10
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    I'm pretty sure that the Hermès scent is just using the massoia lactone, much like Boss Pure.

    Personally, I would buy a bottle. I suppose that's why they're not releasing the name. Perfume lovers might show support.

    Where is this "scoffrag"? Habeus liquidus!

  11. #11

    Default Re: Article: Non-IFRA-compliant fragrance on the market

    Quote Originally Posted by Redneck Perfumisto View Post
    I'm pretty sure that the Hermès scent is just using the massoia lactone, much like Boss Pure.

    Personally, I would buy a bottle. I suppose that's why they're not releasing the name. Perfume lovers might show support.

    Where is this "scoffrag"? Habeus liquidus!
    I always thought massoia lactone itself was the culprit ingredient. According to Goodscents it looks like the lactone is prohibited, too? http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/data/rw1031001.html
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  12. #12
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    Yeah, I'm sure you're right. It's listed as prohibited in this IFRA spreadsheet.

    My guess is that it's using things like the saturated analogs of the massoia lactones. I think those may be merely restricted.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Article: Non-IFRA-compliant fragrance on the market

    Interesting. Some day I'm going to delve into synthetics and isolates. Not sure I'll be looking for a massoia substitute though - I experimented with it a bit in the past and a single wearing of a perfume with an (unkowingly!) overdosed massoia note turned me off; it combined with the cedar and other components to create a sort of milky coconut/vomit/cedar-sawdust-vomit-powder accord.
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  14. #14
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    Default Re: Article: Non-IFRA-compliant fragrance on the market

    Quote Originally Posted by SculptureOfSoul View Post
    Interesting. Some day I'm going to delve into synthetics and isolates. Not sure I'll be looking for a massoia substitute though - I experimented with it a bit in the past and a single wearing of a perfume with an (unkowingly!) overdosed massoia note turned me off; it combined with the cedar and other components to create a sort of milky coconut/vomit/cedar-sawdust-vomit-powder accord.
    LOL. Except for the "v factor" in that one, it sounds pretty good to me!

    I'm still VERY curious which frag is the violator.
    * * * *

  15. #15

  16. #16

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    Some of the prohibition violations could be triggered by batch variations in natural materials (e.g., safrole). Or the reporting could be based on finding an allowed component of a prohibited gum or oil, with the erroneous assumption that if part is present the entire material is present (e.g., verbena oil). I'm guessing that IFRA's gunning for one of the natural perfumers or an American multinational company promoting its use of "natural extracts" in a shampoo or something.

  17. #17

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    Its a joke really , I mean the whole IFRA thing . On a crusade , I mean acting in the interests of the consumer ? I really dont think so . After the interiew Persolaise conducted with their mouthpiece , who dodged questions and who came across as really quite defensive , I seriously wonder what their real agenda is , money I shouldnt wonder , certainly not Joe publics health and safety but anyway .....

    We are adults , are we not allowed to make our own decisions anymore ....

  18. #18
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    I hope this signals a trend!

    Srsly as a dude I would be MORE inclined to buy a frag if it had a big fat warning label on it.

    Warning: Contains Oakmoss! May cause slight rash in 1 in 100,000 people!! (skull & crossbones, photo of mild rash etc)

  19. #19

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    Amen! Some people are violently allergic to peanuts, shellfish, or other foodstuffs, and can even have a fatal reaction to them. Yet nobody is calling for an outright ban on any of those, and they continue to be available for people who can eat them with no ill effects.

    And cigarettes (which are GUARANTEED to do harm to ALL users of them) are still available just about everywhere, with warning labels.

    Why a different standard for fragrances? Label for content, and let us make our own choices.

  20. #20

    Default Re: Article: Non-IFRA-compliant fragrance on the market

    The funny thing is they're so worried about dermal reactions but seem to fail to notice the increased respiratory reactions (and this applies not only to the wearer but all in his/her vicinity) that the increase in synthetics has led to. Brilliant!
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  21. #21

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    It was just a few years ago that IFRA declared they would "name and shame" any member in non-compliance: http://www.cropwatch.org/40thpetition.htm

  22. #22

    Default Re: Article: Non-IFRA-compliant fragrance on the market

    Quote Originally Posted by Natural_Juice View Post
    It was just a few years ago that IFRA declared they would "name and shame" any member in non-compliance: http://www.cropwatch.org/40thpetition.htm
    Naming and shaming doesn't work to curb human rights abuses, so I wonder why IFRA thought it would work for perfumery.

  23. #23

    Default Re: Article: Non-IFRA-compliant fragrance on the market

    Quote Originally Posted by SculptureOfSoul View Post
    ... it combined with the cedar and other components to create a sort of milky coconut/vomit/cedar-sawdust-vomit-powder accord.
    Wow. That sounds like one of the most unpleasant combinations ever. The vomit + sawdust gives me flashbacks to early gradeschool. Urg.

  24. #24

    Default Re: Article: Non-IFRA-compliant fragrance on the market

    I think I've said elsewhere on Basenotes that although the Standards are not technically part of law (at least not in any country I know of) they are effectively enforced by the fact that once you've been declared non-compliant getting product liability insurance is going to be impossible. And trading (on any significant scale) without such insurance isn't practical.

    I have great sympathy for the company involved and I do hope it's one of those big enough to have the resources to fight back and survive. A small player would simply be put out of business by such an action.
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  25. #25

    Default Re: Article: Non-IFRA-compliant fragrance on the market

    Quote Originally Posted by Mysticman View Post
    Amen! Some people are violently allergic to peanuts, shellfish, or other foodstuffs, and can even have a fatal reaction to them. Yet nobody is calling for an outright ban on any of those, and they continue to be available for people who can eat them with no ill effects.

    And cigarettes (which are GUARANTEED to do harm to ALL users of them) are still available just about everywhere, with warning labels.

    Why a different standard for fragrances? Label for content, and let us make our own choices.
    Sadly, there is a movement afoot to remove all of those offending ingredients from the mainstream grocery stores and in grade school cafeterias. The concern is for children with serious allergies.

    BTW, I wonder what parents will do if their children are allergic to bee stings, which can be just as dangerous. Ban bees from the world? Well, no pollinating of plants, folks! Goodbye, bees!
    "No sweet perfume ever tortured me more than this." Desert Rose by Sting and Cheb Mami, Album 1999.

  26. #26

    Default Re: Article: Non-IFRA-compliant fragrance on the market

    Quote Originally Posted by Primrose View Post
    Sadly, there is a movement afoot to remove all of those offending ingredients from the mainstream grocery stores and in grade school cafeterias. The concern is for children with serious allergies.

    BTW, I wonder what parents will do if their children are allergic to bee stings, which can be just as dangerous. Ban bees from the world? Well, no pollinating of plants, folks! Goodbye, bees!
    Hm. Removing shellfish or peanuts might be relatively easy, but I predict that soy, another common allergen, won't be removed – it's used in so many processed foods that it's scary, and makes a lot of money for a lot of people along the whole supply chain. I would personally applaude the removal of soy (for various health reasons) but I don't think it'll happen anytime soon.

    Seriously, I don't think it's reasonable to effectively ban certain foods. People with serious allergies need to take responsibility for their own health. They can't put their lives in the hands of store owners or producers that may or may not truly understand what they're dealing with.

    It's easy to remove nuts from store shelves, but how do you know that a random "vegetable oil" doesn't contain or has been contaminated by nut oils? And how do you know from which sources all additives have been manufactured? Food labels can't always be trusted, especially since process chemicals don't need to be specified.

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    It's interesting that no one is asking exactly who it might have been who blew the whistle on this un-named frag, what their evidence was, and what their motivation might have been.

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    can anyone answer on my PM when those IFRA rules started in production? is shalimar that is produced in january 2010 affected by it? is it better then then the new shalimar? many thanks!

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    Default Re: Article: Non-IFRA-compliant fragrance on the market

    Quote Originally Posted by tott View Post
    Hm. Removing shellfish or peanuts might be relatively easy, but I predict that soy, another common allergen, won't be removed – it's used in so many processed foods that it's scary, and makes a lot of money for a lot of people along the whole supply chain. I would personally applaude the removal of soy (for various health reasons) but I don't think it'll happen anytime soon.

    Seriously, I don't think it's reasonable to effectively ban certain foods. People with serious allergies need to take responsibility for their own health. They can't put their lives in the hands of store owners or producers that may or may not truly understand what they're dealing with.

    It's easy to remove nuts from store shelves, but how do you know that a random "vegetable oil" doesn't contain or has been contaminated by nut oils? And how do you know from which sources all additives have been manufactured? Food labels can't always be trusted, especially since process chemicals don't need to be specified.
    I agree that folks need to be responsible for their own safety in what they eat, drink or wear--proper notice of what possible allergens could be associated with those products indicated clearly. Lawyers however seem to find slight slits in which to wedge a winning lawsuit despite the best of attempts by manufacturers to alert the consumer of potential allergenic problems. If it weren't for the fact those lawyers only have public safety as their main concern I would tend to get angry at their actions and think they were in it only for the money.
    'Those who grow too big for their pants will be exposed in the end'--anon

  30. #30

    Default Re: Article: Non-IFRA-compliant fragrance on the market

    Quote Originally Posted by iivanita View Post
    can anyone answer on my PM when those IFRA rules started in production? is shalimar that is produced in january 2010 affected by it? is it better then then the new shalimar? many thanks!
    The IFRA rules started in 1973 and are now in their 46th amendment . . .
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  31. #31
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    About time too ! IFRA is stuff and nonsense.

  32. #32

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    Sure. Make more synthetics, toxic compounds and replace the naturals and organic. Ooh allergies on skin! How about the long term effect on the respiratory and the brain permanently from blended synthetics and toxic perfume compounds that they approve? One aspect of IFRA's persistent arrogance I can't accept and understand. And to be shamed after. How is it fair that you label a long named synthetic ingredient on the label where people dont really understand even after looking it up (cause most aren't scientists), to a certain natural product that's been used since the mesopotamian and egypt times and people don't die. You guys should go to one of their events. It's hilarious!!!! ''Use this toxic stuff! Be aware of the Naturals and the Natural Perfumers!'' I remembered one of them stood up and arrogantly said ''You should know who we are and where we are coming from''
    WTF? 90% of Arabs are laughing at them openly and most are non-compliance. Cause they know plants shares the same 40% DNA in humans. These compounds - 0% your body rejects it or the compound manipulates your liver. OMG I can so go on and on.... BOO!

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