Code of Conduct
Results 1 to 10 of 10
  1. #1

    Default Aromamaterials question about Troisieme Homme...

    What is the chemical that makes a masculine smell masculine? It's hard to define, but now you smell it in everything; it practically screams "frat boy". It's not a fougere thing because I can't smell it in older fougeres like Jicky, but I do smell it in masculines produced after Cool Water. I thought it was called calone, but I'm not sure if it's present in Troisieme Homme.

    Sorry that's so vague, but it's hard to pin words onto ignorance.
    "The death of Satan was a tragedy for the imagination."

  2. #2

    Default Re: Aromamaterials question about Troisieme Homme...

    No one material makes something smells masculine, it'll more than likely be a combination of things like coumarin, lavender, etc.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Aromamaterials question about Troisieme Homme...

    But there are... these combinations I've encountered in other perfumes, in other masculines, unisex, feminines, without that bracing aftershave quality. Hm, I'm not sure I can describe it.

    Love your blog, btw. Thank you for responding.
    "The death of Satan was a tragedy for the imagination."

  4. #4

    Default Re: Aromamaterials question about Troisieme Homme...

    Calone is quite characteristic, it smells sort of aquatic and watermelony, but strong. It features very prominently in Eau d'Issey and Aqua di Gio, so by smelling these two, you should get an idea of what calone is.

    I don't detect much calone in Troisieme homme, though, at least the version I have. The alternative are various woody-ambers. Woody ambers are chemicals that can smell quite sharp, like concentrated rubbing alcohol, and are very persistent. The most famous one is perhaps Ambroxan - there are a couple of niche perfumes supposedly composed only of the material (eg Molecule 02 or Juliette not a perfume). An especially annoying one is in Light blue for men - if you take out the calone-aquatic note, what remains is a sharp, utterly unpleasant woody-amber.

    cacio

  5. #5
    hednic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    McLean, NYC, & Búzios
    Posts
    78,381

    Default Re: Aromamaterials question about Troisieme Homme...

    Calone is definitely a contributor, but mostly agree with others who say it's a combination of various substances.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Aromamaterials question about Troisieme Homme...

    Ah, the woody-amber makes sense. It's as you describe: like rubbing alcohol and very persistent, normally smells quite cheap but it's handled beautifully in Troisieme Homme. I'm not familiar with it because it's so characteristically masculine I'd never come across it in a feminine. Maybe there's a hint of it in Kiki...

    Thank you. I should be better versed in the chemistry, so it's good I can check with you guys for accuracy.
    "The death of Satan was a tragedy for the imagination."

  7. #7

    Default Re: Aromamaterials question about Troisieme Homme...

    I also think it's the wood or woody amber notes. Many stereotypically "masculine" scents feature(d) this accord quite prominently, starting in the late 70s with scents like Halston Z-14 - scents like de Nicolai's New York and Guerlain's Hertiage also feature this accord prominently, but smooth it out a bit. It's in 3rd Man as well, and figures into many, many other masculines scents that came after that, at various levels.
    "It's not what you look like when you're doing what you're doing; it's what you're doing when you're doing what you look like you're doing."

  8. #8

    Default Re: Aromamaterials question about Troisieme Homme...

    Aye. Aramis has it, for example, just a light touch, but it definitely doesn't have calone.
    "The death of Satan was a tragedy for the imagination."

  9. #9
    Olfacta's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    a large city in the Southeastern U.S.
    Posts
    286

    Default Re: Aromamaterials question about Troisieme Homme...

    I think it's dihydromercanol. It's that "limey-woody" thing that seems to be in every mass-market men's scent. I admit I haven't smelled Troisieme Homme, though.
    Olfacta
    also at http://olfactarama.blogspot.com
    Musings and random thoughts about the genie in the bottle

  10. #10
    Dependent pluran's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Pacific Northwest
    Posts
    6,826

    Default Re: Aromamaterials question about Troisieme Homme...

    Quote Originally Posted by Olfacta View Post
    I think it's dihydromercanol............that seems to be in every mass-market men's scent

    Definitely. "Dihydromyrcenol", which is still hugely used to scent laundry detergents.

    It's not nearly as strong in Troisieme Homme as it is in many others, though.
    Last edited by pluran; 15th November 2011 at 01:37 AM.

Similar Threads

  1. Caron Pour Un Homme or Le Troisieme Homme (The Third Man)?
    By Primrose in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 41
    Last Post: 29th June 2012, 08:35 PM
  2. Pour un Homme and Troisieme Homme
    By ben_from_boston in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 36
    Last Post: 17th October 2011, 12:01 AM
  3. Le Troisième Homme de Caron- What a find!
    By koala501 in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 49
    Last Post: 8th July 2011, 01:44 AM
  4. Question about KL Homme?
    By hawkwatcher in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 3rd February 2011, 12:31 AM
  5. Caron - Le troisieme Homme - The Third Man
    By viktorov in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 27th May 2007, 07:22 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •