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  1. #1

    Default Article: The Shoe Fits - an interview with Thierry Wasser


  2. #2

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    Thanks for a great and very interesting interview here!
    With regard to Monsieur Wasser's daily fight for the integrity of the formulas, I want more hard work on L'Heure Bleue in extrait concentration! I am seriously irritated about its latest incarnation as per end of 2010. I felt insulted when I noticed its distinctive spiciness (anise) was obviously dismissed, together with a faint and watered down general appearance. I expect better from the house of Guerlain.

  3. #3

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    You cannot compare the latest bottle sold in a shop to a collector’s vintage perfumes that have oxidized and macerated.

    He perfectly describes why I stay away from vintage stuff. It's never "the real thing" anyway. I rather go for the reformulation. Good to see that he's doing all he can to recreate it as close to the original as possible.
    I have even more respect for Guerlain now then I already had.

  4. #4

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    This is a great interview, and the questions asked were very even-handed. I think Mr. Wasser has a real love of material; something that can't always be detected just from smelling the products from a perfume house.

    I'm glad to hear about the work that Guerlin has done to create sustainability in the production of scents - That's inspiring. It's easy to forget sometimes that these oils come from real, living plants that are grown by people as their primary source of income. Wasser's approach makes a lot of sense - create sustainable plant sourcing to protect jobs, protect the local environment, and protect future resources for Guerlin's raw materials. It's a great strategy.

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    Double post, sorry!
    Last edited by teardrop; 9th November 2011 at 07:46 PM.

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    Default Re: Article: The Shoe Fits - an interview with Thierry Wasser

    Thankyou for a fascinating read!
    Monsieur Wasser's dedication & love for his work shines through in this interview. lt's good to know that the house of Guerlain is in such capable hands.
    Very interesting to read about the lengths he goes to in order to source the best quality raw materials, & to reward in a meaningful way those who produce them.
    l am especially excited by the idea of a new source of sandalwood!
    "What is this secret connection between the soul, and sea, clouds and perfumes? The soul itself appears to be sea, cloud and perfume..." - from Zorba the Greek by Nikos Kazantzakis.

  7. #7

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    Thanks very much indeed for this.

    I've said this before and I'll say it again: I think we haven't yet seen what TW is capable of. I have a feeling that once he's fully settled into his current role, he might delight us with several gems.

  8. #8

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    It's interesting that Thierry mentions this:
    "I am most interested to see which fragrances in L’art et la Matière and Les Exclusifs are most appealing. I see this as being in the same vein as Jacques Guerlain’s customer testing. The customer feedback to these lines could determine my next fragrance direction."

    But it's surprising the "Il Était Une Fois" fragrances have seemingly been abandoned. Guerlain has a strong scent history which appeals to many of it's customers, which if not done so already, should be considered by M Wasser. It's apparent that Jean-Paul Guerlain started on Ode (1955), Kadine (1911), and Cachet Jaune (1937) but they never made it to distribution. But of course, it's not appropriate to bring back a fragrance if it cannot be done so near it's original shape.

    And a criticism: Whos idea was it at Guerlain to remove L'Attrape Coeur/Guet Apens? In my opinion, this is a big shame when it was 'replaced' by fragrances such as Cherry Blossom. And as a whole, the attempt to 'satisfy' both men & women, by limiting the femme fragrances, and introducing previous masculine fragrances is also a shame. The Elixirs Charnels, in my opinion, do not measure up to the discontinued 'femme' les Parisiennes.

    The last picture of Thierry is wonderful. It's nice to finally see his smile. How cute

  9. #9

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    Thank you very very much for this great interview. I love the honesty and sincerity, and I find TW's dedication to Guerlain and to quality is clear in every sentence. Personally, I can't wait to see what the next L'art et la matière release will bring, and had hoped for a little hint :-)

  10. #10

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    Excellent interview! Mr. Wasser is delightfully articulate and forthcoming. My respect to him and House Guerlain.

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  12. #12

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    What a fabulous, revealing, and interesting read. Great article MB! It is nice to hear TW's dedication to uphold the old formulas and minimize change.

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  14. #14

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    Thank you, that was an interesting read.

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    It was obvious to me that Wasser was the perfect choice the second I smelled Cologne du Parfumeur. Shalimar Parfum Initial cemented my opinion. It is absolutely stunning. I'm so happy that Guerlain is in such good hands.

  16. #16

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    Terrific interview, encouraging to read that M. Wasser is engaged with real people growing real flowers and sandalwood trees and so on, there's still hope, then. Guerlain is probably the least reliant on the 'gang of four' (or five) for ingredients and doesn't need to be coy about the situation facing the industry caused by what can only appear to be collusion under the IFRA banner IMO, and to his credit M. Wasser gives a polite but clear voice to the frustration felt by many in that regard - a more political individual would not.

    I hope he can fight the good fight keeping the classics alive and have fun building on the work he has started. It's clear that Idylle is doing its job admirably, L'Abeille is a sublime beauty and Cologne du Parfumeur is just plain great stuff.

  17. #17

    Default Re: Article: The Shoe Fits - an interview with Thierry Wasser

    Thierry Wasser has some pretty big shoes to fill. I wish him great success with his endeavor.
    - Expect the unexpected

  18. #18

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    I appreciate the work of Initial, and I hope there are some new originals from M. Wasser in the future.

  19. #19

    Default Re: Article: The Shoe Fits - an interview with Thierry Wasser

    Nice post indeed.
    But, obviously formulas have changed over the past 10 years because of Ifra legislation. Why do they desperatly want to destroy old formulae? It has NEVER been proved that Shalimar, Femme, Miss Dior or l´Heure Bleue would be dangerous for the body (unless if you drink one liter
    So why big and powerful brands let Ifra look into their business to tell them how they have to do with their perfumes! That makes me crazy.
    By the way, nobody tell either that ALL the perfume brands belonging to LVMH has to respect their own inner rules> no nitro, polycyclic musks nor animal raw materials in their perfumes.
    Guerlain belongs to LVMH since the mid 90´s...so...no more civette or casto, musk keton or ambrette in their fragrances anymore.
    IFRA!
    Then why saying that any formula has changed ?
    Consumers are not stupid, they smell the differences! I am pissed off.

  20. #20
    Basenotes Junkie CX827's Avatar
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    Thanks Basenotes for the interview and good to know more about the story behind Jasminora. I love this soothing scent and use it as room spray quite often. As to the L’art et la Matière, to me the most appealing are Angélique Noire, Bois d'Arménie, Cuir Beluga, Iris Ganache and Tonka Impériale.(in no particular order) To the next one. It would be very nice to see any possibilities that the honey note in L'Abeille featuring in this line in the near future.

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    What a great interview! Wow. Thierry really opened up - this may actually be the best perfumer interview I've ever had the pleasure of reading. Very cool!

    I really think it's important for people to read this, on so many levels. It's an amazing look at the industry. And I have to say, I admire Thierry's attitude toward the people at the other end of the component supply line. It's nice to see how much the planet continues to move away from old relationships of exploitation, to more of a partnership between the agro-world and the techno-world. Bravo!

    Also excited by the possibility of new creative works!

  22. #22

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    What a great interview with this interesting man, who has obviously been the best choice for Guerlain. After all those trustworthy statements, the only comment that irritated me is that Jicky's ingredients had been untouched since the mid eighties. My last bottle of EdT is so much lighter and has much less of what everyone calls "civet" than my previous bottle, which is definitely not from before the nineties.

  23. #23

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    This is great thank you so much , I think I'm a little bit in love with mr Wasser !!!

  24. #24

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    Thank you for taking the time to read this remarkable interview with Thierry Wasser whose candor and integrity really made this interview special for me. Your comments are very appreciated.
    Marian Bendeth

  25. #25

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    Marvelous interview, very well done. Mr. Wasser is engaging and articulate; I wish him and Guerlain every success.

  26. #26

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    Re: comments about 'recreating' vintages, I assume either this thread (http://www.basenotes.net/threads/283...sieur-immersed) or the same poster on their blog was passed along to him...

    I'm cautiously hopeful about Guerlain's future, I guess we'll just have to see what comes out next.

  27. #27

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    What other say...I'm really touched by this piece...and Thierry Wasser, lovely person and great nose for me, is going to surprise us. I'm quite optimistic. The idea of linking to the environment and agriculture/crops seems somehow very promising.

  28. #28

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    THANKS BASENOTES for this interview...I'm knocked out but not surprised...With Jean Paul's dedication and respect for their classics, and his neo-classicism approach to his own creations I would expect the one he pick to succeed him would be of like mind and character. I'm just so happy to hear him speak...and his every word confirms this...
    As the House of Guerlain has always been my favorite it brings me much joy...And I believe it makes since that the House that brought us so many historical firsts, would be a leader in these times in keeping the "Art" in this Art form....
    Thanks again for doing what you do that makes this the "one of a kind" web-site that it is....This interview has given my a new perspective and hope for the future of perfumery...I'm also very glad to see that like Jean Paul, Thierry is excited to be so active in the procurement and future development of raw materials...I'm excited...
    Last edited by be-bop; 17th November 2011 at 03:06 PM.

  29. #29

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    Excellent interview. I think it is so true what he said about bloggers and internet perfume writers. To be credible, i think we all need to take responsibility of what we say in the net. If we are not knowledgable enough, we should ask and learn, or just express it as an opinion instead of the ultimate truth. I saw some comments in perfume forums or blog which are simply not true.

    It's something we always should take care of when we write

  30. #30

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    Excellent interview. I think it is so true what he said about bloggers and internet perfume writers. To be credible, i think we all need to take responsibility of what we say in the net. If we are not knowledgable enough, we should ask and learn, or just express it as an opinion instead of the ultimate truth. I saw some comments in perfume forums or blog which are simply not true.

    It's something we always should take care of when we write!

  31. #31
    DON'T DRINK AND DRESS

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    Default Re: Article: The Shoe Fits - an interview with Thierry Wasser

    Another top notch article/interview from Marian Bendeth, chuck full of info and Revelations!
    Our job is to live joyfully in this world of sorrows--Joseph Campbell

  32. #32

    Default Re: Article: The Shoe Fits - an interview with Thierry Wasser

    Very kind of you to say kbe and glad you enjoyed the story!
    Best,
    Marian Bendeth
    Quote Originally Posted by kbe View Post
    Another top notch article/interview from Marian Bendeth, chuck full of info and Revelations!
    "Fragrance weaves a necklace of perfumed memories" M.B.
    "If perfume be the food of love, spray on' M.B.

  33. #33

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    Very proud to say this story picked up the 2012 Best Editorial Award at the Canadian Fragrance Awards!!!!!!! Your comments truly made all the difference too! Thank you!

  34. #34
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    Default Re: Article: The Shoe Fits - an interview with Thierry Wasser

    And adding my belated comment here. This is an excellent piece and I loved reading it.
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/370...o-Profumo-Onda
    For sale. Carnal Flower and Vero Profumo Onda.

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    Default Re: Article: The Shoe Fits - an interview with Thierry Wasser

    Same here. Fascinating and informative article.

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    Default Re: Article: The Shoe Fits - an interview with Thierry Wasser

    Thanks. Great info about IFRA and reformulations.

    In case you didn't realize it, IFRA isn't your friend. No matter how much bullshit they tell you about making the world a safer place, all that stuff is mostly done by other people in the perfume world. IFRA is all about politics. Making sure more and more synthetics are used in perfumery, become competitive in the market, making people a lot of money. Making sure less and less naturals are used.
    Last edited by pluran; 19th December 2012 at 09:06 PM.

  37. #37
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    Default Re: Article: The Shoe Fits - an interview with Thierry Wasser

    Quote Originally Posted by happy View Post
    Excellent interview. I think it is so true what he said about bloggers and internet perfume writers. To be credible, i think we all need to take responsibility of what we say in the net. If we are not knowledgable enough, we should ask and learn, or just express it as an opinion instead of the ultimate truth. I saw some comments in perfume forums or blog which are simply not true.

    It's something we always should take care of when we write!
    I called a blogger out on misinformation, a video game writer, he told me he's not a journalist and he can say whatever he likes, truth or not. There is FAR too much of this attitude in blogging.

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