I'm testing out the parfums now. Particularly En Avion, n'aimiz Le que and tuberose and of course tabac blond.
I was able to sample three Caron scents today, and I must say I am very impressed with this house. All three - Tabac Blond, Pour un Homme, and Troisième Homme - were actually well-constructed; the latter two were relatively inexpensive. Unusual.
Pour un Homme seems to have some fans here. It is simple, but nevertheless pulls of an interesting trick - somehow it makes lavender last for 10 hours (so far), pairing it with a non-gourmand vanilla. Hammam Bouquet can do something of this by making the lavender ride on a jasminate musk at the bottom - clings weakly to clothing for ages. But making what is usually an evanescent note last obscenely long in nimbus-form is something Pour un Homme arguably does better. The glory of Hammam Bouquet is in its top and middle notes; the pleasure of Pour un Homme, in its drydown.
Tabac Blond struck me as theoretically the best of the three. Remarkably, it is dispensed from a fountain. A luxurious yet somehow not very animalic leather. If there was any civet in it, or musk, I didn't sense it. Yet somehow it purred and had smooth density. How did it do that? I've no idea. But it is well-crafted. A certain frisson of rocket fuel. Awfully nice, but too rich for everyday wear.
Troisième Homme delighted. This is very good indeed - a great success on my skin. Looking at previous threads on it, I think my impressions unshared by many people. It struck me as a _dry_ floral bouquet underlain by oakmoss. Obscurely 'herbal'.
Most construe it as intensely sweet. I don't recognise that at all; little sweetness drifts from my wrist. The patchouli? That is less sweet than in many other scents where it is used. Trumper's Spanish Leather, for example, is treacle compared to Troisieme Homme, where it's used as a discreet modifier.
The driest scents I've smelled before this have been Equipage and L'Heure Bleue. Many enjoy these scents, but neither worked well for me - their dryness was rather blank. Troisième Homme's dryness, on the other hand, seems characterful, having a cerebral quality suited to a mordant conceit or droll affectation. The head unhinged from the heart, yet the head having a heart of its own. (It is easy to imagine the cuckoo screed from The Third Man being said with this drifting around Orson Welles.)
I feel fortunate that this wonderful scent is available at all, let alone so cheaply. (I know that few would agree - it seems to be underrated, and actively disliked by some.) I am definitely getting a bottle, and can see myself using it often.
So...yes, overall, I am very impressed with what I've so far tried of Caron's offerings - and therefore with the house itself.I look forward to trying L'Anarchist, Montaigne, Parfum Sacre and Yatagan. (I am sure En Avion is extraordinary. Maybe someday.) Looking through a thread before, I saw it remarked that Guerlain is a house associated with mistresses, and Caron with duchesses. Like many mistresses, I dare say that Guerlain sells her charms very dearly. But Caron seems, so to speak, an honest wife. A strategy that sits well with me.
Last edited by Merely; 11th November 2011 at 09:09 AM.
*Shake hands* my favorite house for its great Haute Parfumerie style fountain extraits, my greatest loves being Tabac Blond and En Avion.
Nice selection hedonist! My third favorite is Pois de Senteur.
En Avion particularly interests me. Please do post your impressions of it, if you feel like doing so.
Merely, I wrote a lengthy review including a comparison with the original 1930s jus from a sample. You can find it in the review section!
I have a question though.
They sell En Avion and TB in EDP, Parfum (both in retail bottles) and the extrait in the Urn.
Larimar, is the Parfum in retail bottle the same as the extrait in the urn? SA says yes but the SA is also very ill informed to put it politely.
hedonist, I hope you enjoy your indulgences then.
First off, I find Tabac Blond in EdP are rather different 'beast' compared to the extrait. For me there is simply no other way than the extrait, which is richer, with much more depth and also 'opulence'. Tabac Blond is a moderate sillage fragrance, so I need to apply more. Forget the '1 spritz is enough' crap!
En Avion however, is rather similar in EdP, but it is the deep base where the extrait excels. En Avion is one of the longest-lived extraits on my skin (and I have dry absorbing skin). My advice again is to buy the extrait.
Who sells the extraits in bottles? Luckyscent? The price is rather steep and the price per ml improves considerably the bigger the bottle gets. I would recommend buying from Caron directly. Let me know if I can help out with more details!
Remarkable that Caron has apparently retooled that scent so lightly, for the 2011 extrait to seem eventually comparable to the 1930s one. A consistency more expected of chocolatiers than of perfumers. (I like this, not being fond of all-too-common nostalgia and frustration of scents lost to time.)
Agree with Larimar.
I find Tabac Blond EdP a little rough, whereas the extrait is superlative: Full, rich, enveloping.
A big fan of En Avion extrait also. A true diva of a scent, especially when spritzed. At one point, The Perfumed Court were selling it off very, very cheaply. I stocked up, and am glad I did so
Too much of a good thing can make you wonderful ~ Mae West
Caron is def good perfume.
I have only tried Pour un Homme and Yuzu Man. PuH I don't really recall very well and wish someone would be generous enough to send me a sample so I can test it out Yuzu Man is my latest infatuation... I like this stuff a lot. The quality is clear and the scent is fabulous. I need to explore Caron much more in depth
Caron is a very classy house that makes wonderful fragrances IMO.
Alpona as my favorite
Also: Narcisse noir, Narcisse blanc, Poivre, Nuit de noël
Getting an Acaciosa vintage extrait soon
A great house in the past.
My 2 cents about Caron. I really am curious about Secret Aoud, but no one (except from one Basenoter if I recall) one here talks about it and second:
I still haven´t sampled Yartagan with no particular reason, except for the fact maybe that I´m afraid to, cause it may be a really awfull fragrance, reading by the descriptions.
I do like 3th Homme though.
In honor of this thread, I am wearing a few drops of Tabac Blond extract. Yes, the opening is fantastic, rich, boozy, leathery, intense. But the problems could come later. We shall see this time.
Caron being consistent? A huge debate... I wish I could smell the unfrayssed versions and report. But even Larimar concurs that the current Narcisse noir cannot be what it was. But I'll follow the suggestion and try to smell En avion parfum eventually.
I also own Nuit de Noel EDT. Very occasionally, I get nice animalic whiffs. I only wish there were more of them.
Definitely a favourite house. I'm constantly fighting myself with Yatagan though - Will never understand its purpose
Wow, Mon-Petit, how exciting to get a vintage extrait of Acaciosa! Please do report back!
cacio, I personally think that sampling Tabac Blond extrait with a few drops on one spot will always leave you underwhelmed. It is a moderate sillage fragrance that needs to envelope you (full wearing). It does create an aura around you. I would get your jus into an atomizer and give it a proper go. It smells fantastic on fabric, too BTW.
I am not fond of Secret Oud, which I think is only due to the camphorous note that runs through it. However, it is an interesting composition.
Last edited by mrclmind; 16th November 2011 at 03:45 PM.
I just visited one of the Caron boutiques with the fountain extraits. I don't have much experience with the house, but I ended up buying Yatagan and a small bottle of Impact pour Homme (the parfum version of Caron Pour un Homme?). I sniffed many of the extraits but did not buy. I thought the Tubereuse was very nice - sort of like tuberose with all the rough edges sanded off. Also liked French Cancan - it seemed like a louder version of l'Heure Bleu.
I really like Caron. Yatagan and PuH are really good ones. I do want to try Impact at some point. This is a good house to have as a favorite.
Last edited by socalwoman; 22nd November 2011 at 07:55 PM.
I have a question, if I may wonder it. It is similar to hedonist222's.
I had been considering buying the triply-named Third Man - but it has occurred to me that this might be folly, when I could get a very decent sampling of an urn fragrance for not much more. Yet - I am genuinely puzzled that Luckyscent offer 7.5 ml of extrait of En Avion for $100, whilst the Perfumed Court offers 8 ml of 'pure parfum' of En Avion for $50. Is not 'pure parfum' the same as 'extrait'?
Any enlightenment on this point would be appreciated.
Ah, I managed to find out the (possible) answer by sifting through a thread from 2009. Apparently (?) TPC buy in large quantities, lowering the expense for them per ml.
Yep, Merely, Caron extrait prices per ml vary considerably depending on the amount purchased. However, the Luckyscent pricing is right and the same in Euro if purchased directly from Caron. I do not know what TPC's motivation for discounting En Avion is apart from the quantity... surplus stock? I would try a sample no matter from where and otherwise buy directly from Caron. Personally, I am concerned about the freshness of the jus and the Tabac Blond 'concentration confusion' expressed in reviews is another reason.