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  1. #31
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    Default Re: Byredo M/Mink: (not so) Initial Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by jathanas View Post
    The definition of cloying is to sicken through excessive sweetness or richness.

    Further you might notice that Laph is Australian. We do speak English, most of us fairly well. We also get taught geography during our primary and secondary school years.
    Lol, M/Mink is about as rich as a stalk of celery and a handful of sand

  2. #32
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    Default Re: Byredo M/Mink: (not so) Initial Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by Spoombung View Post
    It's good to hear others people's perspective on it, however, personally it thoroughly disgusts me - and I'm someone who tends to like 'challenging' or experimental fragrance.

    For me there's a disastrous smell of pine disinfectant and metallic bilge water. Really nasty stuff IMO.
    ^ What he said.

    And IMO there is nothing at all that smells like this. Thank God!
    "All problems are illusions of the mind."

    -- Eckhart Tolle

  3. #33

    Default Re: Byredo M/Mink: (not so) Initial Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by MonkeyBars View Post
    Cloying? Man, this juice has not an iota of sweetness in it. And I prefer drier fragrances. I think these non-native-speakers are using the word "cloying" wrong. That adoxal rides like a freight train over anything but the patchouli to my nose. Smells like new carpet and other synthetic fabric outgassing. Borderline nauseating to me. My new Nissan Leaf has fabric upholstery and I always keep the windows cracked so the outgas can waft out, as I seriously dislike the odor. I definitely agree M/Mink is unusual and daring however!
    Interesting. Now that you talk about carpets outgassing, I can kind of smell it here. But perhaps that's just the power of suggestion, because as I've been wearing it since I started this thread, I primarily smell something that I hadn't mentioned in the original review: carbonized wood. A sort of stark and woody ashiness. A fire pit the morning after the fire.

    Also, I used to think the honey faded and all that was left in the late dry down was the incense and musk notes, but yesterday at about the 11 hour mark I was getting a very strong and very realistic clover honey note. I pulled out a bottle of clover honey to compare - it was dead on. What was really odd about it is that with some sniffs I'd get this honey note, front and center, and other times I'd smell the still-lingering musk or the incense. It's multi-faceted and different facets present themselves with each sniff - and this is true throughout the life of the fragrance but for me, moreso near the end of its development. That is something quite unique in perfumery, imo. A lot of the Humiecki & Graef scents achieve this kind of multi-faceted linear progression but the facets tend to blur into a singular identity within a few hours. M/Mink reverses the progression and is mostly a singular identity and then begins to fragment as it dries down.

    Also, late in the dry down I do notice an animalic musk that - on some sniffs, just as the honey - is almost stark naked in its presentation. I've never smelled this particular note so clearly before except in one composition - Monk by Michael Storer. In Monk you smell that musk in the top notes, nearly standing alone. Here, I was picking it up clearly on the occasional sniff around the 10-12 hour mark.

    As I wear it more, I've found that the 'scratchiness' of the pine has been reduced - now it's more of a dark piney wood quality - dark pine wood that is at least partially carbonized. The blackness of that carbon note is entrancing and the only other scent that has that particular quality that I've experienced is Al Oudh. Al Oudh dresses the note up more, though, and it makes Al Oudh easier to digest.
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  4. #34
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    Default Re: Byredo M/Mink: (not so) Initial Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by jathanas View Post
    We also get taught geography during our primary and secondary school years.

    Cheers, J
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  5. #35

    Default Re: Byredo M/Mink: (not so) Initial Impressions

    Hmmm trying to describe from memory now (which is always a bit flawed) but there's essentially a synthetic sweetness that appears inconsistently in the middle to dry down. On paper this is a very stark fragrance but on my skin it warms up considerably. Sometimes this balances the fragrance out but other times it's a bit dominant and synthetic and becomes, to me, a sweet-ish, sticky-ish presence causing discomfort. I used "cloying" to try and describe this in a word, happy to get better suggestions.

    BTW, thanks for the aussie defense jathanas

  6. #36

    Default Re: Byredo M/Mink: (not so) Initial Impressions

    I do detect the sweetness you talk about - to me it's totally in the form of honey. I find it sweet but in the natural and real sense, which keeps it balanced (just as I don't find sniffing a jar of clover honey to be too sweet, only sweet). Scents like Chergui however, how further sweeten the honey with iris and the like, push into the cloying territory for me. I do see though how someone could find M/Mink cloying, and unlike many of the posters above, I do get sweetness in the scent. It's just juxtaposed against some of the most intense musk and deep pine (more like a deep trunk/pine sap note, along with that airy hint of carbonization I mentioned before) notes I've encountered.
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  7. #37

    Default Re: Byredo M/Mink: (not so) Initial Impressions

    Just picked up a 10ml decant of this on eBay, as I'm really loving it for winter so far.

    Will report back after I give it some more wearings.
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  8. #38

    Default Re: Byredo M/Mink: (not so) Initial Impressions

    Wore this again yesterday and got a compliment 20 - no, that's not a typo! - yes, twenty hours after application. And I was a few feet from the person giving me the compliment. Talk about longevity!

    I absolutely love this stuff. Sometimes - momentarily - I think it stinks.. I get a weird smell from it like dirty feet (is that valerian I detect in here?) but then that fades and I get a wonderful inky dark honeyed incense. I think I smell an oud note, too - or at least, it has that same inky dark note that is present in large quantities in Kilian's Pure Oud (actually, my guess is that it's the copaiba balsam along with some guaicwood).
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  9. #39

    Default Re: Byredo M/Mink: (not so) Initial Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by SculptureOfSoul View Post
    For those who've tested this - is there anything else you've tried that's remotely similar?
    Maybe Etat Libre d'Orange - Rien

    Both share a pronounced dry, austere animal skins expression - to my nose of course. Rien is more ribald in that. In direct comparison Rien starts with strong bitter orange peel, something I ever associated with patchouly too. M/Mink is more on the wild honey, bay leaf side.

    But to be honest, which perfume could be compared to Rien? I never came across a fragrance that was that overwhelming to any other smell. Again something shared with patchouly.

    <edit> The potion of M/Mink on my wrists changed just in the moment I pulled the trigger on Rien. First M/Mink felt quite powerful animalic. It is a soft reminder to Skarb now, go figure! If there's an anti-perfume around, Rien is it ...
    Last edited by WildThingy; 13th January 2012 at 08:39 AM.

  10. #40
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    Default Re: Byredo M/Mink: (not so) Initial Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by WildThingy View Post
    Maybe Etat Libre d'Orange - Rien
    Make sense...


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  11. #41

    Default Re: Byredo M/Mink: (not so) Initial Impressions

    WildThingy, I read that Rien, amongst many other ingredients, has an overdose of galbanum (and aldehydes, too). At first I thought I liked Rien but after a few wearings I quickly found it to be too over the top for me. It got a bit urinuous on my skin, too.
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  12. #42

    Default Re: Byredo M/Mink: (not so) Initial Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by SculptureOfSoul View Post
    WildThingy, I read that Rien, amongst many other ingredients, has an overdose of galbanum (and aldehydes, too). ... over the top for me.
    Do You remember where You read it? I'm not the galbanum-guy anyway. I don't even get it in Vent Vert too much.

    My personal relation to Rien is similar to Yours. It is hefty. It really is. On others - by now my preferred setting to sample frags - it is less dark brooding whatever, but more milky floral.

    Some time ago I discovered a strange effect. While sniffing close it is leathery, dense and bold. A total eclipse of the nose as to say. The promising bitter orange peel accord that I enjoy for 2 minutes gives place to - all and nothing at the same time. Olfactory fatigue? I wear Rien - nothing else smells of anything. When sniffing it in very low concentration, as for instance when smelling it on others from the distance it is an unpleasantly wet "white" floral. Like milk diluted with lots of water, do You imagine how that could hurt? The taste doesn't get a grip on it or so.

    I think M/Mink could go in the same direction, but I haven't it tested on a volunteer yet. Similarity by now is the animal part as said above.

  13. #43

    Default Re: Byredo M/Mink: (not so) Initial Impressions

    Found it:

    An interview with Antoine Lie:

    http://graindemusc.blogspot.com/2011...is-beauty.html
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  14. #44

    Default Re: Byredo M/Mink: (not so) Initial Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by SculptureOfSoul View Post
    Found it:

    An interview with Antoine Lie:

    http://graindemusc.blogspot.com/2011...is-beauty.html
    Great read, thank You!

  15. #45
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    Default Re: Byredo M/Mink: (not so) Initial Impressions

    Got a chance to give it a good wearing today. The opening on my skin evokes an overripe fruit salad, musky and dense and sweet. It reminds me somewhat of CB I hate perfume's Musk Reinvention (chemical/vegetable sources composed to resemble musk). Then after a few minutes it sings with syrupy white honey and a very sharp, cold incense, and some sort of thick, almost fecal floral (is this the adoxal aldehyde that I'm smelling? And something indolic? I think it's just a heap of various aromachemicals pieced together to form something vaguely resembling a flower in abstract). At points it reminded me of ink mixed with corn syrup and water, at others like leather curing and burnt hair, sometimes of overripe fruit, and at others beeswax. It's a very, very odd fragrance, evoking all of the above associations, but not truly resembling any of them. After a couple hours the florals fade and the residual incense/cedar/honey mixture is very pleasant, though a bit airy and cold. Reminds me, vaguely, of the scent of fresh snow falling (apparently it's supposed to smell like blood at some point; I don't get that association). But the journey there... oof. It's probably wearable, but certainly not an easy choice. Lasts for a loooong time, and projects like mad. Two sprays on my wrist, and it has filled my study.
    My top 5: Sea Mist; Minnow; Crab, tiger, and almonds; Semprini; Rancid Polecat N 2

  16. #46
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    Default Re: Byredo M/Mink: (not so) Initial Impressions

    I love M/Mink, and plan on getting a bottle. It's a very daring fragrance.

    Imagine mixing Pinaud's Lilac Vegetal with Kouros, and remove all of the sweetness Kouros has, and you'll get something like M/Mink.

    I don't recommend this one for people who don't like "dirty" smelling fragrances. This one smells both clean and dirty (with a urinous smell) at the same time (like Kouros does).
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  17. #47

    Default Re: Byredo M/Mink: (not so) Initial Impressions

    Sorry to ressurect - but here's my not so initial impressions of M/Mink
    Have loved reading this thread - I'm finding myself and SoS have more and more fragrant things in common as time goes on!
    You're thoughts were fascinating and I think subconciously helped me to re-discover (and buy!) this fragrance.

  18. #48

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    Default Re: Byredo M/Mink: (not so) Initial Impressions

    Good to know the name of the noxious material, adoxal. I strongly dislike marine, so M/Mink for me was a no no, a bilge-y mess without the conceptual interest of Sec Mag.

    cacio

  19. #49

    Default Re: Byredo M/Mink: (not so) Initial Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    Good to know the name of the noxious material, adoxal. I strongly dislike marine, so M/Mink for me was a no no, a bilge-y mess without the conceptual interest of Sec Mag.

    cacio
    It's a hell of a material ey - terrifying :') haha. I can totally see how it wouldn't work at all for some - in no ways would I expect everyone to take to it and I think it's very difficult to wear with great confidence.
    Are you a Sec Mag fan then? I wrote a big ass essay on Bosque recently which I think is a perfect Secretion Magnifique substitute... well, not a substitute, becuase there needn't be on, but it has SecMag's quality in it very obviously but at a much more acceptable level of wearability.

  20. #50

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    Default Re: Byredo M/Mink: (not so) Initial Impressions

    I must read your essay on Bosque then. I like Sec Mag as a statement-and I actually own it. But I find the smell horrifying, and do not want it to touch my skin in any possible way. I strongly dislike marine notes in any possible form, so I strongly dislike the brutalist perfumes, like M/Mink, who appear to be serious and made for wearing.

    cacio

  21. #51

    Default Re: Byredo M/Mink: (not so) Initial Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    I must read your essay on Bosque then. I like Sec Mag as a statement-and I actually own it. But I find the smell horrifying, and do not want it to touch my skin in any possible way. I strongly dislike marine notes in any possible form, so I strongly dislike the brutalist perfumes, like M/Mink, who appear to be serious and made for wearing.

    cacio
    http://smellythoughts.wordpress.com/...aef-the-essay/

    God I feel like a right sad tw*t posting links - i like feedback though, makes me feel like my writing isn't completely pointless.
    Yer I completely understand that, I used to hate them too, unless they have a challenge behind them.
    I find M/Mink completely made for wearing, it's hard going to begin with though D:

  22. #52

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    Default Re: Byredo M/Mink: (not so) Initial Impressions

    Great essay! Now I'm curious. Now, if we're talking about bilgey marine, this is a no no for me. I'm somebody who finds Lys Mediterranee, the best marine by miles, too much. However, there's a difference between marine-bilgey, and the chlorine+floral which Elena at perfumeshrine has argued is the basis of the particular "secretion" we're talking about (as in: applying le labo iris cream after a swim in certain chlorinated pools).

    cacio

  23. #53

    Default Re: Byredo M/Mink: (not so) Initial Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    Great essay! Now I'm curious. Now, if we're talking about bilgey marine, this is a no no for me. I'm somebody who finds Lys Mediterranee, the best marine by miles, too much. However, there's a difference between marine-bilgey, and the chlorine+floral which Elena at perfumeshrine has argued is the basis of the particular "secretion" we're talking about (as in: applying le labo iris cream after a swim in certain chlorinated pools).

    cacio
    LysM?! But it's so good! Haha.
    I think the chlorine/iris fits perfectly - although there wasn't a trop of sperm in the Le Labo's to my nose so I'm amazed she got that out of it. But the guy I quoted on my blog doesn't mention sperm, but mentions the "chlorine" notes more than once. But yeh, there's no bilge here - it wouldn't be contentment with bilge! It's not a perfume made to unsettle

  24. #54

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    Default Re: Byredo M/Mink: (not so) Initial Impressions

    No bilge, good! Of course, there's plenty of bilge in M/Mink. As there is in Petroleum (which, however, does have a conceptual interest).

    Re: the labo iris (which Elena didn't mention. I did) - it's not per se. Alone, it is a wonderful iris. It is when added to chlorinated skin. A pool I went to last year left me a strange, chlorinated smell on the skin. If I used the Le Labo Iris cream, voila! This will likely work with all iris soliflores.

    cacio

  25. #55

    Default Re: Byredo M/Mink: (not so) Initial Impressions

    I think you'd like it, but as I said - I don't want to overhype it as it could easily be done.
    I didn't find the bilge in Petroleum at all disgusting - it's very subtle, I love that fragrance, but it's drydown is a bit disappointing.
    Ahhhhh! That makes more sense. I love the thought of sperm being iris and chlorine :') Becuase it's actually perfect haha.

  26. #56
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    Default Re: Byredo M/Mink: (not so) Initial Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by SculptureOfSoul View Post
    For those DIYers out there, the pine and dark inky aspect can be closely replicated with small amounts of valerian essential oil. And yes, I suppose there is a hint of that valerian dirty-sock quality in M/Mink, too. Hmm, ok, now I'm starting to see why one might think bilge water . Ah well, I still like it!
    Valerian is one of the few oils I have to double-bag, it's so potent and stinky. A nasty scent like that might be an amazing match with super-sweet florals. No one seems to be using it though . . . let's get to work SoS!

    Quote Originally Posted by jathanas View Post
    The definition of cloying is to sicken through excessive sweetness or richness.

    Further you might notice that Laph is Australian. We do speak English, most of us fairly well. We also get taught geography during our primary and secondary school years.
    1) It was alfarom (Italian) who first brought "cloy" into the discussion. Then it was quoted by a user from the Netherlands. I guess we Americans know how to do a text search on a webpage.
    2) Your smarmy emoticon can't hide the ridiculous and out-of-place snobbery here. Please raise the bar of discussion from your lowest-common-denominator stereotyping.

  27. #57

    Default Re: Byredo M/Mink: (not so) Initial Impressions

    Monkeybars - try the Valerian SC02 from Liberty Natural. It's solid, and a pain in the ass to work with, but it gets rid of the evergreen qualities of the original, tones down the dirty-sock note, but keeps a sort of indolic dirtiness to it. I use it in small amounts as an 'all natural civet substitute' - it's the closest thing I've found in the natural realm.
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  28. #58
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    Default Re: Byredo M/Mink: (not so) Initial Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by SculptureOfSoul View Post
    Monkeybars - try the Valerian SC02 from Liberty Natural. It's solid, and a pain in the ass to work with, but it gets rid of the evergreen qualities of the original, tones down the dirty-sock note, but keeps a sort of indolic dirtiness to it. I use it in small amounts as an 'all natural civet substitute' - it's the closest thing I've found in the natural realm.
    Yes I can definitely see that working!

    I think roots are the most fascinating plant type, scent-wise. Vetiver, galanga, valerian, angelica, ginger... amazing!

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