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  1. #1

    Default Current Emeraude Eau de Cologne

    I was in Wal-mart last night shopping for some stuff my girlfriend needed because she was sick, and decided to check out the perfume section. I recently read some praise for vintage, so I decided to smell Emeraude, which came in this monstrous bottle for 20 bucks. I had a tiny squirt of Kouros on my wrist that I distributed to the other wrist and to my elbows that I had applied around 5 hours prior. I don't know if it was the kouros, but 30 seconds later I had the richest, warmest vanillic oriental on my wrist. I was surprised, for sure! I sometimes wear Shalimar EDT, and the first impression I got from emeraude was an EXACT replica of the drydown of Shalimar!

    After about 20 minutes, it sort of started getting worse, and the synthetics and poor blending sort of showed at the seams. 1 hour later, and it was back to shalimar's drydown, but lighter. 3 hours later, however, it was full-blown cereal marshmallows, and lost all of its oriental magic.

    For a reference, the shalimar EDT lasts ~12 hours on me, and it takes about 45 minutes for it to develop the good drydown on me. On my girlfriend, however, it turns into marshmallows in an hour much like emeraude on me.

    I have only tried Shalimar EDT, so it's the only reference I have, but have any of you expereinced this? Is the vintage emeraude much different? Does this mean that shalimar is another coty re-imagining like mitsouko?

    Who deserves the credit for the first oriental? Guerlain claims Shalimar was first, but that can't be according to the dates. We need an expert!

  2. #2

    Default Re: Current Emeraude Eau de Cologne

    Regrettably, I have never smelled vintage Emeraude. Perfume critic Luca Turin has a good discussion of Emeraude in his new book, the little book of perfumes. He says there's no relation to the current version. He describes vintage Emeraude as "After eight", that is, a fresh-minty note over an opulent oriental ambery base.

    As for who did the first oriental, I don't know, but I suspect that the combo of ambers and vanilla had been around for a while and predated both. Certainly it wasn't Shalimar - Shalimar is simply the oldest surviving one, Coty and most other perfume houses having disappeared in the meantime.

    cacio

  3. #3

    Default Re: Current Emeraude Eau de Cologne

    I really wish Coty would re-do Emeraude and make it wearable again. I can imagine that it would be a big seller, but I doubt the original ingredients are available/legal, and maybe that is why they do not.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Current Emeraude Eau de Cologne

    What lilybelle said, modern one is far from being wearable or enjoyable.

  5. #5
    kumquat's Avatar
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    Default Re: Current Emeraude Eau de Cologne

    The original is glorious and the recent versions are just nasty. It's really deception in a bottle. How they can call it the same thing is a mystery.

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Current Emeraude Eau de Cologne

    Quote Originally Posted by lilybelle View Post
    I really wish Coty would re-do Emeraude and make it wearable again. I can imagine that it would be a big seller, but I doubt the original ingredients are available/legal, and maybe that is why they do not.
    And bring back the ads....



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  7. #7

    Default Re: Current Emeraude Eau de Cologne

    I'll happily chime in as another lover of the original Emeraude, and those classic ads, too. I actually prefer a good vintage formulation of Emeraude to any version of Shalimar I've come across. The lemon-scented poopy diapers and smoke accords of Shalimar have always been deal-breakers for me, and Emeraude doesn't have any of that. Not having any civet, Emeraude is not only cleaner, or clearer actually, but I find it smoother, more radiant, and somehow just more beautiful and luxurious than Shalimar. And the opoponax note is possibly the most beautiful I've experienced -this is especially evident in the older parfum.

    As others have noted, the current thing should just be avoided. It bears little resemblance to Coty's gorgeous original, and it's a genuine shame to have it tarnishing the reputation of what was once a very highly-regarded fragrance.
    Last edited by Evangeline; 5th December 2011 at 08:21 PM. Reason: sp
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