Is there a place on the web where we can see a complete list of the line and their notes? You mention an additional 10 to try . . . Their website does not list Lalfeogrigio for example.
The fragrance is accompanied by prose from Charles Baudelaire's "Spleen", a creepy bleak disturbing poem....
Leather, Laurel, Pine, Orange
Incense, Galbanum, Tobacco, Styrax
Juniper, Myrrh, Myrtle, Tobacco, Styrax
The fragrance itself is expansively green, and cold. I think that it should be tried on paper to fully appreciate that.
The first blast is refreshing, herbal, slightly bitter, a bit like an herbal apertif. On skin it becomes a bit more balsamic quite quickly, whereas on paper it retains its icy greenness. On me, notes seem to come and go throughout the development, pine, herbs, sage and thyme in particular but there is also juniper, lavender, artemisia, oregano and others listed in the notes. Galbanum clearly plays an important part. Although it does become a bit more balsamic at times (think fir balsam, and it does have styrax listed) it remains underscored with an astringent chill. At times a cool mint comes through and it is quite dominant. Mint is not listed in the main, abbreviated, description, but it is definately there and I did find it in the long list. There are many listed notes that I don't smell, and you might.
To me, the heart of this fragrance is camphoraceous, piney, minty, herbal with a cold character.
"Wild Savage Notes", Dill, Orange, Turmeric
Coffee, Toasted Kamut (grain), Petitgrain, Clove, Patchouli
Incense, Ylang Ylang, Cardamom, Myrrh, Vanilla
As 1003, but LOADED with CUMIN, Coffee, and Toasted Notes, which change the character considerably. Again, Cumin is not noted in the short list but it is there in abundance and again we can see it in the longer list. But what does that matter anyway? These are experiential fragrances.
It is as if an animal has appeared in the landscape, and a pretty stinky one at that. It is far more pungent than 1003, it also has more depth, more presence. It makes 1003 seem very clean, whereas this one is dirty.
I decided after Ladamo that I wasn't going to say anything about whether I liked each fragrance or not, or whether I preferred one to another, because what I like is of no importance whatsoever. It doesn't say anything about these fragrances. So it doesn't matter whcih one I prefer, but I do think that there is a choice to be made. LINFEDELE 1003 and LINFEDELE1004 might divide us. I can't wait!
1004 loses much of the sweat and dirt eventually, (surprisingly, you would think that it would stick around), but it does have a greater complexity in the drydown than 1003, and greater longevity on skin.
A little footnote. I woke up the other morning with the most beautiful green smell all around me, it seemed to fill the room, as if the air was full of cool, forrested oxygen. I had left the paper spills on my nightstand........
I would say that if 1004 is intended to be the Feminine version of Linfidele and 1003 is intended to be a masculine version then I don't agree with those definitions at all. Preference will be a very personal thing with these fragrances but if we do have to define the two Linfideles by gender then I would say that 1003 is the feminine and 1004 is the masculine.
What do we think?
Last edited by Foustie; 25th March 2012 at 12:21 PM. Reason: the usual, typos!
And incidentally, sorry to be vulgar but I am knackered after that. I don't find this easy. Don't let me deceive you into thinking that the musings above are spontaneous...I have to study them. It takes me a long time. So you will forgive me if I go to the pub now!
Foustie, I'm LOVING your reviews and, most of all, I'm so glad you're enjoying this line. Despite the incredibly challenging price tags, I believe these fragrances are taking the "artistic" aspect of modern perfumery to a completely higher level. The fact they release every composition in very limited quantities is a clear sign that this is not just another greedy project. I started to refer to O'Drił as original paintings as opposed to the concept of industrial reproductions.
As another Basenoter used to say (if memory serves me well he was Sugandaraja), "you don't have to necessarely own a Rembrant to enjoy it".
I really appreciate the way they're doing their own thing. Silent, discreet, not much fuss about it. A concept that in nowadays "loud" market is way much missed. Totally opposed to the vulgar ostentation of opulence of many well known brands I won't name here...Kudos.
alfarom, thank you again for your thorough and informative reviews. some other Italians around here ought to take note of your excellent English as well. Kudos to you my friend
I'm trying Leva today. This thing is weird, very complex, kind of aggressive, but really not in the traditional Poison-esque type of big floral way. In fact I'm not sure I'd call it floral at all.
The opening is a great big blast of complexity. It's sour, dissonant, astringent, kind of harsh, but also very natural smelling, in the sense of natural perfumery, yet I doubt it's truly all natural as it has a distinct forcefulness about it. The top notes are like a cloud of these to my nose:
Lemongrass - Palmarosa - Grapefruit - Passionfruit - Vanilla - Tuberose - Rosewood - Karo Karounde - Powdered Sugar - Leather
Yes, all of that. It's like on axis between an unsweetened Grapefruit Julius and a leather-bound book doused in sugar and floral waters, perhaps some pickling spice mixed in. I'm just a couple hours in and the floral side is emerging more; I'll add more later.
This is very niche, and your opinion on this will probably be split by how you feel about experimental lines like CdG, etc. If you look at fragrance as a place to explore new sensations, try it; if you wear fragrance to smell "nice", well...
I'm not sure if I'd ever own this, but I'm happy it exists!
Weirdly, after the three to four hour mark Leva dries down to a quiet, tangy, vanilla-fragipani scent; I'm at the six hour mark and it's a skin scent, and an uncontroversial one at that. Very top-heavy this one.
Suga, you're describing an O'Drił...no doubts! I'm so glad you got your samples...
While I'm a total freak for CDG's, at the same time I'm not sure I get the comparison, though. Maybe it could make snese for the "experimental" aspect but, overall, O'Drił has a strong artisanship vibe that recalls of ancient worlds and territories as opposed to the general industrial/futurist quality of most of the CDG's...(at least to me).
Last edited by alfarom; 8th March 2012 at 10:27 AM.
Actually Leva is not archetypal in this range, in fact it seems a surprising diversion. The dry down and deep drydown of some of the others is really interesting.
Hello everyone....I've been testing Londa 1005 for the last two days...here's my take
I'm coming to the conlcusion that Mr.Pregoni is the master of the openings! Most of his compositions opens just like a whole opera played in a few minutes. While all this may sound a bit overwhelming and confusing, let me reassure you that everyhting it's incredibly detailed and clear and happens so naturally. Londa 1005 makes no exceptions.
If the name Londa 1005 (which stays for italian L'Onda - The Wave) together with the presence of "salty notes" make you think about an aquatic fragrance, be advised that there's nothing marine/ozonic/ oceanic here, in fact the fragrance opens with a blast of challenging herbs and spices (sage, cumin, pepper and others) paired with a bizarre pine/mint accord and joined by strong, astringent, sort of bitter-and-smoky notes. The house signature is clear and works just like a warning: "We're O'Drił, like it or lump it".
The overall sweaty/animalic vibe is immediately softened by aromatic citruses and other fizzy notes such as lemongrass and ginger that while blending perfectly with the pepper/mint/pine accord, drive the fragrance towards balsamic territories. In this phase there's something that may vaguely remind of Villoresi's Piper Nigrum but don't let this mislead you: Londa 1005 is one of a kind.
All of the above happens in a few minutes and, as I previously said, it's incredibly plausible and natural. It's like taking a thrilling ride on one of those winding slides at the water park. You're shaked, amazed and thrilled to then jump into a refreshing finale into the water.
After the opening, a salty/woody/vetiver base surrounded by the usual amount of herbs and spices, starts to break-in while coniferous notes and lemongrass settle down and serve as necessary refinements. A remarkable musky quality provides some mistery. No sweetness detected throughout. Once again, Londa 1005 is not something for everyone but, If compared to other deliveries from this house, this is surely among the most easily approachable. This is not to say that it's simpler (because it's anything but), but slightly more "familiar".
Let's make it simple: a terrific take on vetiver.
Wether you like it or not, I still think that Pregoni is one of the best things happened to perfumery in the past few years!
Last edited by alfarom; 8th March 2012 at 01:19 PM. Reason: typos!
Another! Thank You! I am going to come back to your review of Londa 1005 when I have lots of time so that I can really take it all in.
Yes the signature is very strong, and uncompromising I think. We also have some themes developing around the Perfumers "Palette" which I have some thoughts about but I need more time.
Alfarom, more and more I am experiencing these fragrances as Landscapes, stories, and as you say, paintings.
Will come back soon...
Much to my surprise, I got along with Ladamo much better.
To my nose, Ladamo smells like a giant duet between two ingredients: immortelle and celery. There is a hazy mixture of other spices floating around the top ( my best guess is black pepper, ginger, turmeric, and possibly coriander and/or fenugreek, but the latter two are hard to identify against a background of immortelle this strong ), and a bit of patchouli in the base. There is a bit of off-citrus twang in the top akin to Leva's, but it's quite ephemeral.
This is easily the least sweet immortelle fragrance I've worn, and I applaud it on that. Very wearable, however, and I don't think the less adventurous should be scared off by the sound of immortelle and celery. It's balanced and pleasant.
As I love celery in fragrance ( and it can be hard to find ), so I may be up for a split of this one down the road.
Yeah, if Yatagan is too celery prominent for some, then I'd recommend avoiding Ladamo for sure!
I kind of wish I could add it to Mandarine Mandarin to bring up the intriguing celery part of that fragrance.
@Monkeybars...any news on your samples?
Last edited by alfarom; 8th March 2012 at 11:00 PM.
Got some samples on the way to me, have no idea what they'll send but we'll see...
Can't wait to try them.
Perhaps there's a stronger kinship with CB I Hate Perfume's odder ones. I definitely would compare Leva's odd treatment of florals with, say, CB's Cradle of Light ( different smells, same dissonant botanical twang ).
As a pair, Leva and Ladamo smell very antique and eccentric, in a modern way. "New Weird" fragrances...
The Perfumer; Angelo Orazio Pregoni;
Is he a man of fierce intelligence or fierce instinct? Is he a brilliant technician or an artist? Is he a Chemist or an Alchemist? Is he a Perfumer or a Magician?
He seems to be all of these things. To be able to create these shocking openings must require great technical ability. To create these incredible landscapes, stories, paintings, must take great artistic imagination.
I have some thoughts about the palette. There is a theme running through most (not all) of the O'Driu fragrances. The palette is primarily herbaceous, green, bitter sometimes. Amongst the notes that we see coming up time and again are Artemisia, Lavender, Laurel, Myrtle, Angelica, Chamomile, Clary Sage, Pine, Mint, Thyme, Basil, Rose Geranium, Marjoram, Sedge, Myrrh, Frankincense, Juniper.
Isn't that a great list?
(He also uses Dianthus (Carnation), various Citrus, Vetiver, Jasmine, Mimosa, Magnolia, Castoreum, Cumin and Sandalwood amongst others.)
But back to the first list. As well as smelling great there is something about that list. These are ancient materials. They have old, old magic. Some are associated with Pagan festivals. Myrtle is associated with the Beltane Fires, Angelica with the Solstice. Others have medicinal, or spiritual uses and associations. The clue must be in the name O'Driu, which we are told comes from the word Druid. In fact the plant most associated with Druids is a tree, the Oak. Perhaps this is yet to come in one of their fragrances.
I think that this most avant garde perfumer is using old magic here. What do you think?
Last edited by Foustie; 14th March 2012 at 09:43 AM.
Great post Foustie. You've done a lot of research. Have you noticed that patchouli is used sparingly. I see it once as a mid-note and only once in the base. Very interesting. Also, in the samples I have there is not mention of my beloved amber.
I do have some good news, a well-placed source has advised me that there will be a less-expensive line by years end. So who wants to host a split of one of these bad boys(girls)?
You know that you're getting older when you start making sounds like your coffeemaker.
A woman celebrating her 104th birthday was asked, "Whats the best thing about being 104yrs. old?" "No peer pressure."
@Foustie: you're spot on, as usual I completely agree...word for word.
@trex57: appearantly, some of their previous fragrances will be re-presented in a new series called "Haiku" (which will be more affordable price-wise). This new line will include compositions such as Linfedele 1004 and Londa 1005 among others that will be reorchestrated using only 8 essential oils. The final result should be like something "inspired" by the original fragrance...
Monkeybars, any closer to getting some samples? I really hope so. I would really love to hear what you think.
trex57, Alfarom. Thank You, you are both so kind, and thanks also for the heads up about the new ranges, hmmm. I also have a little information. I wanted to know about the production runs. Are they finite? It seems that they are but that would not preclude the possibility of, for example, Linfidele 1007, 1008, with a little difference each time. It still means that each batch is unique.
The "herbalists palette" became obvious to me quite quickly actually. It is great isn't it? And Rex, most children growing up in Scotland would know about the Druids, so no research as such, but I did look at what materials are listed most often in the long lists of notes, and I did check a couple of examples of what herbs are associated with which festivals in neodruidism, for your amusement!
Last edited by Foustie; 14th March 2012 at 09:52 AM.