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  1. #1

    Default En Avion to Nowhere

    An Attempt to analyze and better understand the Legacy of Ernest Daltroff.

    "While the Guerlains were always organic, Carons were kaleidoscopic."
    -Jean Kerleo

    This Thread Dedicated to the Memory of Emil, 1961-2011




    #1: drifting
    Last edited by le mouchoir de monsieur; 23rd December 2011 at 06:30 AM.
    "...a Chacun son Mauvais Gout."

  2. #2

    Default Re: En Avion to Nowhere

    I enjoy Narcisse Noir and also Tabac Blond.

    Elegant and unique. My fav house along with Guerlain.
    "No elegance is possible without it...perfume is a part of you." Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel
    Currently wearing: Poison by Christian Dior

  3. #3

    Default Re: En Avion to Nowhere

    PRIMROSE! delighted to see you here: I am plotting strategies for this thread. I do hope you will come along for the ride!


    #2: Twisting
    Last edited by le mouchoir de monsieur; 11th December 2011 at 06:16 PM.
    "...a Chacun son Mauvais Gout."

  4. #4

    Default Re: En Avion to Nowhere

    I wanted our resident Caronista Larimar to open the show. By my calculations, he is now just waking up! I'm sure he's not half awake that he's poured "Tabac Blond" extract all over him! In fact, knowing Larimar, I would not be the least bit surprised if he's rigged up a kind of alarm clockwork that, at a precise hour each morning, awakes him with a cloud of perfume, rather than the usual bells and tones!

    #3: Whiteout
    Last edited by le mouchoir de monsieur; 11th December 2011 at 06:17 PM.
    "...a Chacun son Mauvais Gout."

  5. #5

    Default Re: En Avion to Nowhere

    Oh wow, being awakend by a cloud of Tabac Blond (with its leather whip? )...
    Maybe the key to major satisfaction and enjoyment from wearing perfume is not to 'understand' them? Understanding and comprehending what's going on is disillusioning?
    Anyway, you know that smelling En Avion's opening blast is like a drug to me. I haven't smelled anything better. Makes me smile as some Caron lovers say the classics need time to develop as they are rather unpresentable initially. Well, not for this weirdo here...
    Today's 'Caronade' seems to be tied around a special use and blend of carnation, I think. The orange blossom/neroli with Caron's rose are main players. I have read that En Avion was a violet heavy scent? Can anyone smell that?
    The original chypré En Avion of the 1930s had a very special accord, which I would have identified as the often quoted 'orange tree', a bitter accord resembling 'orange bitters' from an old-fashioned bar.
    I am very intrigued what Fraysse does in the base (musk...) It smells animalic to me, but not oppressive. The original was not an animalic heavy hitter either to my nose.
    Now, come up with the scoop, mdm!

  6. #6

    Default Re: En Avion to Nowhere

    No never got violet from En Avion. For me the Carons are always big on the orangeblossom

    Narcisse Noir and Narcisse Blanc especially(extract versions).
    DONNA

  7. #7
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    Default Re: En Avion to Nowhere

    I'm fond of En Avion, though there's a puff of bitter-soapy orange blossom in the top, that reminds me of Narcisse Noir, a fragrance I can't take at all. In the drydown, though, En Avion strikes me as less harsh and more sophisticated than its related sibling, Tabac Blonde.

    I agree that there is something linking all the classic carons, a deep rose-carnation note obvious in Bellodgia, Poivre, Noir de Noir, but present in Tabac Blond, En Avion, Narcisse Noir, Pois de Senteur, French CanCan, and Acaciosa to varying degrees.

  8. #8

    Default Re: En Avion to Nowhere

    Ah....the Caronade. This, my friends, is what I attempt to clarify here with this thread: Naturally, every single one of the Caron greats are linked by a certain "air de famille." This was a pivotal, defining quality to every major French perfumer, in the days when there was a standard of elegance and quality that, under no circumstances, could be ignored. Thus:

    The Guerlain "Guerlinade," with it's pastry like vanilla and soft powdery hesperidic notes, as if someone "handed you a lemon tart"
    The Patou "Patte," a boozy, sparkling slap in the face: A cocktail of gin (Monsieur Patou loved gin), black pepper, and other notes making an abstract bouquet that immediately identifies any patou (save perhaps "Joy,") as such.

    But what of this Caronade? To me, very single Caron classic I have sampled, (with the exception of "Pour un Homme," which, to a certain extent, does not count, as it was specifically created for men: A novelty in its time) not only opens with, but maintains the strangest, most unearthly symphony of notes that play like veritable music, all the while maintaining a very staunchly bizarre and intrinsic mystery that is downright bewitching.

    It seems to me that this very quality, the Caonade, is what makes people either "Guerlain," or "Caron," because, if you don't like it, or you enjoy it but can't imagine parading about in it, I am sure it will have something to do with this oddity that, often very loudly, speaks its' name without an hint of shame. I, myself, have never smelled any perfume, in all of my life, and all of you can imagine that I have smelled thousands, that has this strange trait that will identify the wearer of a Caron immediately and with no imprecision whatsoever. Wax on as much as you like about neroli and powder, rose and carnation, but to me, familiar with all of these notes, it smells like raw jasmine wax, untreated petroleum jelly, and vinyl. It is this complete abstraction I hope to explore in this thread: What makes many of these great perfumes seem "kinky" to our modern noses. Even that pedantic, dismissive emperor, who clearly has no clothes, Luca Turin, ordains: "You wouldn't want to take a girl home to meet your mother who wears Tabac Blond."

    #4 Blackbird Braille
    Last edited by le mouchoir de monsieur; 11th December 2011 at 06:40 PM.
    "...a Chacun son Mauvais Gout."

  9. #9
    kumquat's Avatar
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    Default Re: En Avion to Nowhere

    This is from another thread; I thought you might find it interesting.

    Most or some of you know that I'm really stuck on Caron French Can Can. This is from a refill I got from The EBay French Shopper- Shop France, I think she's called. She goes over & gets the goods in Paris & ships them to you when she gets back to the states. (I am not her friend nor do I have any affiliation!)

    Briefly, my rant on french perfume is that you must get it! French law dictates perfume must be potable; or drinkable so instead of cheap wood alcohol (US law still dictates perfume must be poisonous. Leftover from Prohibition.) they use the type that is akin to vodka or grain alcohol. (I'm no scientist so I don't know the correct term.) Anyway, it makes the perfumes smell creamy, not harsh.

    You can really tell the difference, IMO. The first time I tried this French Can Can in NY, I thought it smelled like rotten flowers. Then for some reason, I decided to try the the french stuff. It is a glorious amber, violet and rose combination that is just unlike any other scent out there.

    So, check out those french fumes!


    And I adore the Daltroff creations; Tabac Blond, Narcisse Noir, Infini, Fleurs de Rocailles, En Avion and Nuit de Noel are some that I love, probably there are others I'm forgetting.
    Last edited by kumquat; 12th December 2011 at 01:04 AM.
    Currently wearing: French Cancan by Caron

  10. #10

    Default Re: En Avion to Nowhere

    So, Kumquat, what you're suggesting is that perfumes blended in France destined for the American market are blended with different ingredients than those that are sold in their native country? I've heard of this but only briefly: I can't say that I know for a fact that it is true, although many are those that speak of such regulations. This is an interesting detail: I who tend to buy my perfumes both in France and in America, I can't say that I've noticed a tremendous difference: I'm sure that if I were to concentrate and to do a two-wrist-test, I may be able to detect one. I do know for a fact that French law requires fragrances to be potable, what I didn't know was that American law requires them to be poisonous. This could be a potential explanation as to why my "Flowerbomb" cocktails don't taste quite as delicious here as they do in France. (Flowerbomb: invented, 1984: In a tall glass, place ice cubes, and one shot of vodka, along with one drop Shalimar extract, then fill glass with plain soda water.) There is also the still practiced French trick of soaking cigarettes in extract, then letting them dry on a radiator for several days until they are bone dry, and then smoking them. I tried this once with "Knize 10" and it was fascinating. I could not finish the cigarette: It was intoxicating to the point of dizziness and nausea. I wonder what a cigarello would be like soaked in "en avion," dried, and then smoked? somehow I can see this working more pleasantly in a cigar, or a smoking medium that is not meant to be inhaled, but merely held in the mouth. Larimar, why don't you soak one of your cigars in "en avion," let it dry, smoke it, and report back to us?

    #5 Wenceslasaire
    "...a Chacun son Mauvais Gout."

  11. #11

    Default Re: En Avion to Nowhere

    Quote Originally Posted by le mouchoir de monsieur View Post
    Wax on as much as you like about neroli and powder, rose and carnation, but to me, familiar with all of these notes, it smells like raw jasmine wax, untreated petroleum jelly, and vinyl. It is this complete abstraction I hope to explore in this thread: What makes many of these great perfumes seem "kinky" to our modern noses. Even that pedantic, dismissive emperor, who clearly has no clothes, Luca Turin, ordains: "You wouldn't want to take a girl home to meet your mother who wears Tabac Blond."
    Alright then, can we have an explanation (less technical please) what exactly raw jasmine wax is and how it differs from the essential oil, absolute etc. Petroleum jelly?

    Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez changed their mind in the last edition of The Guide. I conclude one star (Tabac Blond), two stars (En Avion) and a general rant how terribly reformulated they are now would make them perfectly in-law proof, I suppose.

    I have seen you writing this, kumquat! I have never noticed anything like this myself, but I have the vintage extrait of Shalimar produced on both sides of the big pond, I think. I will find out.

    Don't even dare to get me started on smoking En Avion .... hahaaaa!!! Unfortunately, mdm, I am an inhaler, so puffing cigars is not my thing. I smoke occasionally and currently, you guessed it, the 100 % pure tabac blond from Gauloises... No ebony cigarette holder, knock it off, will you?!

  12. #12

    Default Re: En Avion to Nowhere

    Larimar can read my mind. He dismisses my accusations before even I have made them. That's perfectly fine, Larimar. Just use your carnelian cigarette holder. At least vaporize some en avion on one of your Gauloises Blondes, let it dry, and smoke it! You know you want to do it: Don't let's get started here. You have an audience now: We are all waiting with baited breath to hear how a nice, fine Gauloise Blonde tasted when liberally sprayed with en avion extract!

    For that which concerns Jasmine wax, it is used in profusion in cosmetics: There is so much left over in the making of Jasmine absolute, there had to be something made of it: It is yellow and a bit like beeswax, though not quite as dense. The odour is very strange indeed: Somewhat like jasmine but much earthier and less floral. It is the base of so many cosmetic preparations. Patou made Joy soaps out of it, and lipsticks as well. More than one reviewer has mentioned this "vintage lipstick" smell of the Caronade: With this observation they are unknowingly referring to the jasmine wax note. Untreated petroleum jelly, also heavily used in cosmetics, and notably in medicaments, smells like petrol: Tabac Blond has an huge dose of this note in it. What we are all waiting to hear is how that cigarette tasted. Duty calls, Larimar! As for that "soi-disant" emperor of scent, how ever could he suggest that Carons are ill-revised? They are scrupulously dosed and tended to by one of the last great living noses: More likely, there's war/disaccord occurring between Luca Turin and Monsieur Fraysse. On this I would bet. On the eventuality of Larimar smoking an en avion gauloise, I would not: We're
    waiting.......


    #6 Avalanche
    "...a Chacun son Mauvais Gout."

  13. #13
    kumquat's Avatar
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    Default Re: En Avion to Nowhere

    le mouchoir de monsieur, I don't believe the same process is used to create perfume for the french market as it is in the US. As for the rest of Europe or Canada, or anywhere else, I'm not certain but I am stuck on only getting it from France, to be sure. I don't think I'd be too keen on actually drinking it or smoking it. It's a good rule for the safety factor, and it makes for beautiful fumes!
    (Once when I was about 6 years old I poured my mother's good perfume down the sink. I remember it was bright green. I could have just as easily decided to drink it. She discovered me just as I was watching it go down; to her dismay.-She was pretty calm, considering. I wonder what it was. She said it was from Ireland.)
    Currently wearing: French Cancan by Caron

  14. #14

    Default Re: En Avion to Nowhere

    As all of you know, I am proud, fan-wielding, hemline hiking Cocotte, and not at all a nose-in-the air Grande Dame. I have been a devotee to Guerlain my whole life, and this devotion shows no signs of faltering, even faced with their current lack of direction and fall from grace: I feel they have been extremely innovative, even brilliant, in their cosmetic preparations, and a complete failure in their fragrance division: I am sorry. There is no way that "Insolence" and all of those new comps in the elongated square bottles do anything for me: Some I feel are even repulsive. I have smelled "L'Abeille," the 16,000E+ concoction in the hideous Bacarat "landing space ship" bottle and I'm afraid I've only a big "Meh" to pronounce on that one. On the other hand, Guerlain now can proudly proclaim they make the best lipsticks in the world with the advent of their "Rouge Automatique" line: Ladies, I defy any of you to try this out & not become instantly addicted. (I recommend #160 "Bal de Mai" as it is merely the colour of healthy lips and suits everyone.) At a very reasonable price, they simply blew all competition off the scene with this product: But it's lipstick! Where's the groundbreaking perfume? This new nose of their's, this Thierry Water, or whatever his name is, seems quite confident in his role, yet the output is far from exceptional: Guerlinistas/os want and expect exceptional. Now, if Guerlain had merely stolen Richard Fraysse's magnificent re-creation of En Avion, called it "A la Folie" or something more in their realm of frivolity, I would be buying it by the liter in bee bottles, which is my means of attack with Guerlain. I wouldn't care how much it cost. It could be any price. I only know about "En Avion" because of our BN National Larimar. It is he who has re-opened my mind to Caron, I who had all but written it off, waiting for it to shutter the way all great houses do, since, as so well put by Cristobal Balenciaga himself, "the world is no longer a place for (my) creation." I don't think many would argue that this applies to Caron: Yet one more reason we should all be sending fan mail to Richard Fraysse. Not only has he arrived at recreating all of these marvelously daring comps from the seriously overly-elaborate/slightly disturbed imagination of Ernest Daltroff, but he has done so with an amazing amount of respect and devotion. I read somewhere that this Thierry Water from Guerlain claims the formula for Jicky hasn't been changed for over twenty years: Any fragrance professional will tell you that's a wankload of nonsense: Any wearer of Jicky will tell you that's impossible. Fragrance comps have to be re-orchestrated yearly regardless of sanctions and modes due to variants in the "crop" used to make them, so that's about all the proof I need to assume "someone" at Guerlain is standing in shiny Westons about five sizes too big. When I spray this Caron extract, it reminds me of what a perfume should be: The Guerlains, in their day, were like this: You had an extract, and, by God, it was an extract. I now have to order my Jicky parfum in 250ml & 500ml bee bottles because it behaves in exactly the same way the "parfum de toilette" of old did: 2-3 hour longevity. In an extract, you expect at least 10 hours, and very often you would get 15. Even so....I'm still a Cocotte. (Grandes Dames out there, do feel free to bust in on this and give us a piece of your mind!) I feel like a very expensive Cocotte, though: I may be bathing in Guerlain, but I am the proud owner of 75ml of pristine En Avion extract! That, people, makes me rich! rich! rich! 75ml! (My current stock of Jicky parfum: 1x500ml, 2x250ml, 8x30ml How does that make me feel? Meh.) 75ml of En Avion makes me feel as if, for the rest of my life, I could transform from a lowly Cocotte to a Grande dame in a mere dab: because that's all you need. Well, a dab....and a Stola. Right, Larimar?
    #7: Swans-a-Melting
    "...a Chacun son Mauvais Gout."

  15. #15

    Default Re: En Avion to Nowhere

    I hereby proclaim this thread to be a kind of war game: We must add a bit of modernity. Henceforth, this thread will plot Cocottes (Guerlain wearers) against Grandes Dames (devotees of Caron) Each reader/poster is kindly entreated to take sides. It does not matter if you wear Creed, for example, the way I sometimes wear Comme des garcons. you merely must chose between Guerlain and Caron: Thus far, we are certain of only two team members:

    Le Mouchoir de Monsieur: Cocotte
    Larimar: Grande Dame

    Primrose? what exactly are you? (no hybrids, please: You simply have to chose your side)

    #8 Deamondi-Pavlova
    "...a Chacun son Mauvais Gout."

  16. #16

    Default Re: En Avion to Nowhere

    Quote Originally Posted by le mouchoir de monsieur View Post
    More than one reviewer has mentioned this "vintage lipstick" smell of the Caronade: With this observation they are unknowingly referring to the jasmine wax note. Untreated petroleum jelly, also heavily used in cosmetics, and notably in medicaments, smells like petrol: Tabac Blond has an huge dose of this note in it.
    Thanks for these fascinating explanations, le mdm! Very interesting! I did not have a clue. I can't comment since I neither wear lipstick nor make-up.

    You once said about me that Larimar wants to smell 'GORGEOUS' and I have come to the conclusion you are very right. Yep, however much I love my classic Guerlains, it is Caron that pushes all my buttons. Certainly a Grande Dame here...

    With regard to the Gauloises to be smoked with En Avion... you know, I can see two fellows coming up to me with a straight jacket... Alright, I dabbed some on my handrolled Gauloises last night. I can see what it did... it conceals the cigarette smoke and that's what it was probably all about (rather than enjoyment), right?!

  17. #17

    Default Re: En Avion to Nowhere

    For purposes of clarity to all and sundry, let it be known, that though a bloomer-revealing Cocotte at heart, I, le MdM, do not either wear lipstick nor make up! Very haughty of you, Larimar. You Grandes Dames! All the same! must make us working girls feel sub par with your blithe comments! I'm afraid the Cococttes are kicking the Grandes Dames arses, though: Thus far, Team Cocotte has provided all the information, posed the questions, and scrupulously avoided low blows. (As it stands we do not know which side any other readers are on. I was expecting Primrose to manifest Grande Dame status, but as you see thus far, nothing.) It is indeed true that you Grandes Dames must "smell gorgeous," at all times and by that I mean there must be a whirlwind of fabulousness twisting around you that precedes your entrance, dances about the room while you mingle at the party, and lingers behind you as you langourously exit the room, leaving all to marvel at your incomparable sillage: "Who was that? What's that scent? it's Gorgeous!"
    Meanwhile....We Cocottes, on the other hand, are busy whooping it up on the dance floor, making eye contact with strangers, and ultimately luring one of the better looking ones into a dark corner or passage where dangerous liaisons may be wound, all the while smelling very sweaty, very organic, oozing pheromones, and, and leaving a trail of corpses. Oh, well....I knew these kinds of war games were easily won. You see? We cocottes, in our musk-laden clouds, we're used to you Grandes Dames walking about, nose in the air, puffing on your carnelian cigarette holders, and dragging your stolas. Yes, everybody is looking at you in awe, but we, on the other hand, can't be bothered because we're lip-locked with a wildly charming stranger in the dark hall across the way, and our dance card is quite full by the time you leave: If one isn't willing, we've an entire choice of identities to process: We don't smell "Gorgeous," no, we smell "Attractive." So you smoked an En Avion cigarette, did you, Larimar? That's two points for the Grandes Dames! Did the smoke taste like En Avion? or did it just smell like En Avion? We Cocottes do smoke, you know, but not tobacco.... As for Kumquat, we have no idea which side she's on: Cocotte I would presume, but this theory she presents, the one about French fragrance bound for export being blended with different grades of alcohol: We must get to the bottom of this. My inclination is to say it's a wankload of nonsense. I will have to make some inquiries in my dark, steamy, after hours haunts amongst some of my more shady peers: Some do know about these kind of more "Chemical" affairs. I wonder if Dr. Redneck is reading? He knows everything. Also for purposes of clarity, I was not suggesting in commentary #8 that the Carons contained actual notes of jasmine wax and untreated petroleum jelly: I was merely calling out that they summons memories of the smells of these. If you want to score some points, Larimar, tell us in exactitudes what it is in all of thes Caron masterpieces (Ernest Daltroff comps only) that hovers about the flight, that seems identical in each: This shotgun blast that is lethal: Remember how we were confused about "Poivre" and "Pois de Senteur?" Here is a perfect example: Effectively, when applied, they smell identical. It is only after this Caronade flight wears down that they assert themselves as separate entities: Completely separate, since "Pois de Senteur" has that sublime "green house" floral quality that "Poivre" lacks entirely. You who are our Head Mistress of Team Grande Dame, give us all a lesson, will you, and break down that "Caronade Flight." What is it, exactly? (Current Score: Cocottes: 5, Grandes Dames, 2)

    #9 Eiderfalls
    "...a Chacun son Mauvais Gout."

  18. #18
    kumquat's Avatar
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    Default Re: En Avion to Nowhere



    I imagine I am more of a Grande Dame than a Cocette.
    I used to smoke and when I did I especially gravitated towards Russian Sobranies or Gauloises.
    I still try to devastate the room with my glorious fragrance.
    And more often than not, it has lately been French Can Can.
    Vintage Infini, Tabac Blond and Narcisse Noir aren't far behind,
    although I have a wonderful vintage Mitsouko I treasure, as well.





    Last edited by kumquat; 13th December 2011 at 06:21 PM.
    Currently wearing: French Cancan by Caron

  19. #19

    Default Re: En Avion to Nowhere

    Where is Baykat? She is a Caron maniac!
    "You...put on cologne to write?"(From Midnight in Paris)

    Stop by for a chat: http://perfumedletters.wordpress.com/
    My book reviews: http://www.nstperfume.com/author/Cheryl/

  20. #20
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    Default Re: En Avion to Nowhere

    I see that you must call me then, a bloomer-revealing Cocotte, lipstick, makeup and all. And Jicky of course.

  21. #21

    Default Re: En Avion to Nowhere

    So: We have:
    TEAM COCOTTE: (currently ruling)
    Mouchoir de Monsieur, Head Cocotte
    Ingami

    TEAM GRANDE DAME:(currently trailing)
    Larimar, Head Mistress
    Kumquat

    All right, Newbies: Boot camp. Show your stuff.

    #9 Eiderfalls
    "...a Chacun son Mauvais Gout."

  22. #22

    Default Re: En Avion to Nowhere

    I am in both camps. Discovered the Guerlains long before the Carons, but very rarely meet a Caron I did not love. There a few though. The Guerlains the moderns and I include Jean Paul in that I have not loved, the Jean Paul's I like Eau de Guerlain and Chamade. Think I have equal numbers of both ranges.

    Oh I do own one of the Automatic lipsticks from Guerlain Apres L'Ondee.
    DONNA

  23. #23

    Default Re: En Avion to Nowhere

    Quote Originally Posted by le mouchoir de monsieur View Post
    We cocottes, in our musk-laden clouds, we're used to you Grandes Dames walking about, nose in the air, puffing on your carnelian cigarette holders, and dragging your stolas. Yes, everybody is looking at you in awe, but we, on the other hand, can't be bothered because we're lip-locked with a wildly charming stranger in the dark hall across the way, and our dance card is quite full by the time you leave: If one isn't willing, we've an entire choice of identities to process: We don't smell "Gorgeous," no, we smell "Attractive."
    YAWN! Hey, super cocotte, you know it is the Grande Dame's Gorgeousness your wildly charming stranger will never forget until his last day. You see, this is something one has or simply has not. :P Ah well, on to more important things...

  24. #24
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    Default Re: En Avion to Nowhere

    And where does that put Chanel fans - Coco-ettes? Tramps? Working Girls? Ladies who lunch?

    I guess I'll just baptize myself in Pois de Senteur and let myself slide into grande damnation, as I find the Caronade more agreeable than the Guerlainade.

  25. #25

    Default Re: En Avion to Nowhere

    Quote Originally Posted by Larimar View Post
    YAWN! Hey, super cocotte, you know it is the Grande Dame's Gorgeousness your wildly charming stranger will never forget until his last day. You see, this is something one has or simply has not. :P Ah well, on to more important things...
    Larimar! I, as current ruling sovereign of this war game, ( also currently winning, you know) cry Foul! Insulting other team players is not in order: That's one demerit for Team Grande Dame! It's not that we Cocottes aren't gorgeous/unforgettable/alluring/irrestistable/desireable, and you stola-dragging GD's are the beauty icons we aspire to! Not at all: You see we Cocottes are proud of our status! We don't want to be Grande Dames, unless of course the fancy hits us, very much like when you GD's go "slumming" and wear Jicky, in which case we'll transform for the evening, the way this Cocotte did last night when she was very "Grande Dame" at the ballet. (The lady of the box behind ours actually asked me at intermission what "cologne" I wore! I love it when they call it "cologne." It's so funny to me. I wanted to say it was "Old Spice." But I didn't.) And another thing, Larimar: My wildly charming strangers will never forget you until her last days, (usually) not his, remember? .....And......you never know.....she might be never forgetting you because, in her head she might be thinking: "Ugh! That Man! He smells like petrol! He has so much perfume on it's giving me la migraine!"
    (You never, ever know.....) My date, having IMMEDIATELY said, upon our "hello" embrace, said: "You're not wearing your usual fragrance." I said: "No. I'm not. I thought since we were seeing "Casse-Noisette" it would be better to wear something more wintery (En Avion), do you like it?" Her retort: "Well, at least I can smell it! I never smell the one you wear all the time. I have to be very close to get a whiff of it." my retort: "I know. That's why I like it. I want it rigged up so you literally have to be having sex with me to smell my skin. I don't just give my fragrance off to randoms. I'm not that kind of guy." She smiled. "I know you're not," she said. We Cocottes have a certain intimacy about us that you Grandes Dames lack, you see: Since EVERYONE can smell you. So...He he....So, even though you gained team members Sugaranda, and Donna, we Cocottes are still winning by a mile! (Your insulting behaviour cost you a point: Official Score--Cocottes 5, Grandes Dames, 1. It should be below you, Grandes Dames, to launch insults! If anyone gets down and dirty, it's we Cocottes. OK, Ingami. It's just you and I against the world: but we're winning.....we're winning....unless one of you GD's can come up with something really intriquing, and keep them coming! Now that Sugaranda is part of your ever growing army, perhaps she might be able to bring it on. Donna, The "Chanel" team are "the Harlots," and they aren't playing in this game. You'll have to chose: Which is it going to be?

    #10 Santanyeroofdikov
    "...a Chacun son Mauvais Gout."

  26. #26
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    Default Re: En Avion to Nowhere

    SOTD is Jimmy Choo. Lovely sweet spicy oriental

  27. #27
    IngaMi's Avatar
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    Default Re: En Avion to Nowhere

    MdM, Not winning is simply - not possible. I shall be marinating in Jicky this evening, and I am ready for battle!

  28. #28

    Default Re: En Avion to Nowhere

    THERE'S THE SPIRIT, Ingami! See that GD's? We're armed and ready. Take this:

    It's come to light that the vintage "en avion" and the current "en avion," as blended by Richard Fraysse, are radically different. This proves I suppose how each one of us, with the exception of those chanel loving nasty Harlots, who aren't invited to this play off, process scent in a different way. Our man Larimar, who is quite simply the Grandest of all Dames, maintains they are identical. By my take, they couldn't be more different: Naturally, being Caron, they both have that Only Caron "Thing," you know....that "Thing" that just explodes upon application, but, who knew? Even the "Thing" is quite different: It becomes obvious very quickly that "En Avion" was clearly a green chypre--which makes the entire picture more fascinating still. I think Larimar is so accustomed to "Living in Caron," that he can't tell one from the other: I know this is possible, as when you're a Cocotte, like Ingami and myself, we're so used to bathing in Jicky we can barely smell it. The interesting detail is this: "En Avion" was launched in 1928. It was very obviously an intense green chypre, as was the vogue in those days. "Crepe de Chine" comes to mind: One of my favourites, also from the same year. So we have 1928, 1929, 1930, 1931, 1932 and then BAM! Guerlain unleashes "Vol de Nuit." I have stated somewhere on this site, in my review of "Nuit de Noel" I believe, that in those days, Caron was in a league of its own in terms of artistry of scent: Guerlain could not compare, and in many respects did not even try: Caron was more expensive, and, very importantly, more exclusive than Guerlain during these years. Interesting, then, to see the Guerlain Brothers launch "Vol de Nuit" four full years after "En Avion:" Not only the same olfactory family, obviously very much in vogue at that time, but also the same "theme." Patou never did anything like this. In fact, it took them until 1963 to come close, with "Caline." (Vacances, 1934, was green as green gets, but was definitely not a
    chypre) One imagines there were all kinds of green chypres flooding the market back then. It strikes me smelling this vintage Caron just how similar the Patou and Caron styles were: Incomparable richness, unearthly depth, seamless complexity: Yes, but if Grandes Dames wore Caron, I am here to tell you Crowned Heads and Royalty wore Patou. Ingami, we're out here on our own kicking GD arse & they just don't seem to care a fig, do they? Here's an experiment: Take around 20ml of Jicky parfum, and add a single drop of en avion extract to it (in its current formulation.) I did this and I LOVED the result. I was still unquestionably a powdery, civetty Cocotte, but, inexplicably, just slightly more intense: there was a sharp warmth that was added just by this single drop. I'm sure I will repeat the experiment. Excuse me now while I go pour Eau du Coq all over my body........

    #11: Stellatundra
    "...a Chacun son Mauvais Gout."

  29. #29

    Default Re: En Avion to Nowhere

    Quote Originally Posted by donna255 View Post
    I am in both camps. Discovered the Guerlains long before the Carons, but very rarely meet a Caron I did not love. There a few though. The Guerlains the moderns and I include Jean Paul in that I have not loved, the Jean Paul's I like Eau de Guerlain and Chamade. Think I have equal numbers of both ranges.

    Oh I do own one of the Automatic lipsticks from Guerlain Apres L'Ondee.
    I am also in both camps, and happily so. I have some problems with Can Can and Poivre. Too spicy.

    But Narcisse Noir and Tabac Blond are wonderful!
    "No elegance is possible without it...perfume is a part of you." Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel
    Currently wearing: Poison by Christian Dior

  30. #30

    Default Re: En Avion to Nowhere

    But Primrose! You Can't be in both camps! I absolutely LOATHE Mitsouko, by example, so much so that it makes me gag, and I adore too many Carons to list here, yet I have chosen my side, Primrose. You, now, You...must chose yours. I'm calling you out as a Cocotte....but that's just me and my intuition. You go off and play with the Grandes Dames if you will, but I promise you: Cocottes have more fun!

    #12 Hunter's Dream
    Last edited by le mouchoir de monsieur; 15th December 2011 at 05:16 AM.
    "...a Chacun son Mauvais Gout."

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